1937hd45 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Ok, I just had a mental picture with the jugs in that monster vice you haven't photographed yet, a breaker bar and a jack handle, just before the phone call to the Buick new jugs vendor. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) I still think Super glue or as you said duck tape would be a lot cheaper. Edited January 22, 2018 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Just wrap the plug's threads in Duct Tape and install. It works just like plumber's thread sealant tape but much more better-er. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 I've been following this thread from the start and I'm thinking to myself that this is a non-pressurized cooling system - so why all of the concern with leakage? Any of the modern sealants is going to do the job. I gotta hand it to you guys - duct tape - REALLY? If this were my project I think I would use what the plumbers use on black pipe. They are pipe threads and seal tighter as more torque is applied. Just my humble opinion here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Well, I was joking about the duct tape, in response to another response. Terry, to answer the question on concern with leakage, you're correct, it's a non pressurized system. The problem is that the actual depth of the threads, the contact surface of threads that has to seal, is probably on the order of 3/16 inch. Thus, it's not like a regular tapered threaded pipe connection that has an inch or more of threads engaged and sealed. With that very little bit of thread contact, I want to make sure I get it sealed correctly the first time. The four plugs that face each other between the two jugs, when installed on the engine, are less than a 1/4 inch apart, so if one of those four plugs leaks, the engine needs to come apart to fix. Does that help answer the sealing concern? And no, I'm not using duct tape...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) Here is the stuff that you want to use. I recommend it and I keep a large tube in my tool box for all threads that need sealing. Better than Teflon tape. http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Pipe-Sealante-with-PTFE-12346004-P18993.aspx PS: I should add that unless you are in a production garage, this stuff will last for a long time as in years. I would also say that it never really gets brittle/hard. That is what makes it so good. Edited January 23, 2018 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 I like Indian Head on any threads holding back coolant. It is more slippery than you would think when it is wet, so be careful how tight. Other shellac compounds like #1 or #2 Permatex would also be good. Hylomar works, as does Teflon pipe dope. Duct tape? Super glue?!! LOL I'm not that brave. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 On 1/20/2018 at 6:35 PM, JV Puleo said: I think the biggest headache in early car restoration is dismantling something that someone put together "permanently." That's the problem with most things fixed Permanently. Ask me about some Farmer Fixes. Especially where a welder and cutting torch was in use. Looks like your engine is similar in size to the one in my 1915 Buick C-36 and Larry Schramms Buick C-4 truck. These are rated at 37 HP. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 David, when you pull those plugs back out to apply the sealing dope, take a photo or two BEFORE the stuff is applied so that we all can see just exactly the configuration of the plug. I'm having some trouble with 3/16" of threads when the depth of the square socket looks to be every bit of twice that. You know that old saying - a picture is worth a hundred words. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 First, scale might be throwing things off. That's a 3/4 drive. Tool clamped in a large vise. Plugs were cut off ( narrowest taper end) then closed back up since that cut into square drive. Cast iron jug threads are 3/16 to maybe 1/4, Plugs after modification have slightly over 1/4 inch thread. Here are pictures, hope that explains it, tape shows how deep 3/4 socket end went in to plug.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 That is so shallow it practically negates the tapered thread effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 That sure makes for a thin wall at the bottom of the drive socket and the outside bottom of the plug. David, thanks for posting the photos. They really help put things in perspective. I wonder what the reason was for a threaded plug instead of a pressed in plug. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) 6 hours ago, mike6024 said: That is so shallow it practically negates the tapered thread effect. One would think so, but the taper definitely works, as the plug does tighten. The modification cut off the smallest tapered threads, thus the need to rethread them. The concern in rethreading was thread them all the same, to get them all as flush as possible with the outer surface of the jug once they're tightened. This worked out on all but one, which goes in just slightly deeper, but I'll use that one in the middle where it won't be noticed. 6 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said: That sure makes for a thin wall at the bottom of the drive socket and the outside bottom of the plug. David, thanks for posting the photos. They really help put things in perspective. I wonder what the reason was for a threaded plug instead of a pressed in plug. You might not be able to see it from the picture, but after the plug was cut, it was then built up on the back side so that it wasn't a super thin wall, as you mention. I'll have to ask my friend who modified them what he used, silver solder maybe? Or brazed? I can't answer the threaded question, although if you put in a "freeze plug", and if one of the four between jugs ever leaked, you'd have to remove at least one jug for access. These plugs are pretty much forever with no chance of leaking if installed correctly. Thanks for all the help guys, never dreamed it would be such a hot topic!! Edited January 23, 2018 by trimacar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Threaded plugs were a good deal stouter than pressed in sheet metal plugs. They also appear to be a bit earlier so I suspect that it took a while before the automakers figured out a cheaper way of plugging the core holes. My 1910 Mitchell had pressed in plugs... the 1908 and1909 cars had threaded plugs but the company was trying to drastically reduce the price of their cars in 1910 and every shortcut was taken. fortunately, the holes are the same size so I simply threaded mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejboyd5 Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 1) Plug is now very thin at bottom of 3/4" drive opening. 2) As soon as you seat something "permanently," there will arise an even greater need to remove it. 3) Would not a thread chasing file have given acceptable results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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