My Retro 1930's BUICK SALES and SERVICE GARAGE

[MrEarl]

On 3/30/2022 at 10:19 PM, Grimy said:

I'm waiting to see the Persian rug(s) on that office floor!  That's what was often seen in high-end vintage showrooms....

 

Not so sure how "high-end" this place is though....... plus, I don't think a persian rug would look so good laying on a concrete floor, so let me look into getting some wood down first and we'll go from there, 10-4? 😉

[MrEarl]

Ceiling going up. Definitely a two man job and happy to report Wonderboy has been here typically 3 days a week to help lately. Great worker, self starter, never idle.
Pine 1x4 lath 16” on center 3 ring shanks each.
new 1”, R-5 4x8' green board and R-13 bat insulation. This is the first board insulation I have had to buy as i only had 4-5 pieces of the salvage stuff left. $26 at Lowes!!! I only paid like $1-2.00 each for the 2x8 blue board I used all over the rest of the build.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

Got this done over the last two days. (By the way, I’m finally caught up and hope to keep caught up) Was a lot of fun putting up these beadboard, often recalling the time I spent scraping and sanding each one. Like "hello there, I remember you..."
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MrEarl]

I had done a rough mock-up of the pressed tin prior to installing the 1/2 plywood. Should work!…

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I love seeing the remnants of that color left behind.  It leaves no question about its reuse.  
 

you’ll have to do a little something for a crown molding- probably not extravagant maybe just a trim board.

 

your work is an inspiration for me to get busy.

[GARY F]

The tin, is that new or cleaned up used? I like it.

[MrEarl]

5 hours ago, JoelsBuicks said:

you’ll have to do a little something for a crown molding- probably not extravagant maybe just a trim board.

Jeeze dude you must be reading my mind, that's exactly what I'm trying to make a final decision on just now, that and how to paint or treat the tin.  My plan right now is to use the stamped steel molding "matching" the stamped tin as seen here . It is 2 1/2" wide x 2 1/2" high though and I'll need to see if it is "to scale" with actually the whole ceiling and room. It is a bit wider and taller than I like. An alternative would be some unpainted 3/4" thick beadboard that I have,  cut down to half width and dadoed to lay over the tin, if that makes sense. Will most likely use the metal.

 

         

Edited April 9, 2022 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

3 hours ago, GARY F said:

The tin, is that new or cleaned up used? I like it.

 

Gary, it's new, but the company uses old original dyes and a huge 100 year old press, not hydraulic,  and makes them to order. I looked for years for enough old vintage tin in a pattern that was typical of an old car dealership but everything I found was too fancy and usually much more expensive and would require much work than than this new will to get the desired look.

[JoelsBuicks]

1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

An alternative would be some unpainted 3/4" thick beadboard that I have,  cut down to half width and dadoed to lay over the tin

I like the look of that metal edge.   You could work yourself to death on this but you could use that metal edge AND do the 1/2 width board with enough of a dado to cover about 3/8” outside edge of the metal.  
 

I couldn’t possibly suggest a finish for this but I’ll anxiously await what you come up with.  

 

[dship]

I like the metal edging better.  My preference would be to go with either a sprayed-on whitewash or wicked light blue for a finish on the tin and edging.  Probably would paint them on the ground for an easier application and then hang.  

[MrEarl]

39 minutes ago, dship said:

I like the metal edging better.  My preference would be to go with either a sprayed-on whitewash or wicked light blue for a finish on the tin and edging.  Probably would paint them on the ground for an easier application and then hang.  

Tha’s one plan we’re considering Dave, the other is to dull the steel and clear coat or go with like an aluminum paint. It comes in 2’x4’ sheets and I have a spare for use in experimenting, so we’ll see….

[avgwarhawk]

Can go with a lot for the tin ceiling.  White paint.  Tarnished. No matter what you choose the ceiling is going to look authentic for the time period such a building would be found.  I hope once completed the Buick Bugle features your creation in the magazine.  

[dship]

8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Tha’s one plan we’re considering Dave, the other is to dull the steel and clear coat or go with like an aluminum paint. It comes in 2’x4’ sheets and I have a spare for use in experimenting, so we’ll see….

Whatever method you choose, IMHO the current "shininess" has to be toned down to go with the rest of the period look of the garage.... (I'm leaning toward a cream-colored whitewash).

[JoelsBuicks]

To me, the tin pattern graced by that beautiful metal perimeter and inset amongst the finely textured bead board has the flavor and feel of a fine lady as opposed to the rugged mechanic with a half chewed cigar.  As such, the tin deserves a lighter tone and perhaps lightly colored.  I’m thinking a very light cantaloupe or light dreamsickle.  Then two shades darker on the edge metal.  
 

But, opinions are like ….. I forget the rest of that saying.  
 

 

[MrEarl]

13 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

White paint.  Tarnished.

 

6 hours ago, dship said:

I'm leaning toward a cream-colored whitewash

1 hour ago, JoelsBuicks said:

a lighter tone and perhaps lightly colored.

I think we're all on the same page with the light color, what with all the rest of the room being wood, most of it dark, it will need a lighter color ceiling to brighten it up. I have a couple ideas of how to give it a bit of a distressed look, milk paint, crackle paint etc and will be experimenting in the next couple weeks. I also have the other section out in the shop area to do and can use it as a prototype. Appreciate the input!!!

[Larry Schramm]

On 4/8/2022 at 11:09 AM, MrEarl said:

 

Not so sure how "high-end" this place is though....... plus, I don't think a persian rug would look so good laying on a concrete floor, so let me look into getting some wood down first and we'll go from there, 10-4? 😉

 

I have almost wall to wall carpet in my shop.  Used carpet that was replaced in the house.

[EmTee]

On 4/9/2022 at 11:48 PM, MrEarl said:

I have a couple ideas of how to give it a bit of a distressed look, milk paint, crackle paint etc and will be experimenting in the next couple weeks.

👍

[50jetback]

On 4/8/2022 at 11:09 PM, MrEarl said:

 

Not so sure how "high-end" this place is though....... plus, I don't think a persian rug would look so good laying on a concrete floor, so let me look into getting some wood down first and we'll go from there, 10-4? 😉

I thought this was just linoleum in the local GM dealers waiting area ( circa 1930 ) but looking closer it could well be a persian rug. I'm thinking it may be the go Lamar, especially with some wicker furniture, potted palms and a couple of pith helmets!

Edited April 24, 2022 by 50jetback (see edit history)

[old-tank]

Bad choice making Elvis lay on cold concrete instead of a Persian rug!!

[MrEarl]

On 4/24/2022 at 4:19 AM, 50jetback said:

I thought this was just linoleum in the local GM dealers waiting area ( circa 1930 ) but looking closer it could well be a persian rug. I'm thinking it may be the go Lamar, especially with some wicker furniture, potted palms and a couple of pith helmets!

 

And that appears to be just a plain concrete floor with control joints.

Well I've been round and around on what to do with the floor. As I think I might have mentioned, I didn't have enough of the old farmhouse flooring to do the floor so used it on the walls. I did however have just enough of the old pine wallboard, same as I  had planed and used on the front windowed wall. I laid it out just to see how long and short random lengths would look as I knew I would have to cut many of them down to get the straightest part of them. Well after culling for loose and big knots and  making a jig to help with determining straightness and cutting all I had into 3-6' lengths I started figuring up some costs. Just to do leveling on the floor was going to be around $850 just for the self leveling material not to mention the special tools that would be required. The other shocker was the waterproofing adhesive, another 8-900. Then would come the sander rental, stain and polyurethane, and labor cost for Wonderboy for 2-3 days. As funds are starting to get low and I'm really just ready to get this build DONE, I threw in the towel on the pine floor and will likely be going with a solid concrete stain AND SOME PERSIAN RUGS!!! LOL

 

 

 

my straightness jig 

 

 

 

 

On 4/24/2022 at 10:29 AM, old-tank said:

Bad choice making Elvis lay on cold concrete instead of a Persian rug!!

Oh you can bet El will have his own comfy bed, that boy will lay on a shop rag if there's nothing else to be had.

Edited April 27, 2022 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[JoelsBuicks]

I know that you have the ability to make  anything look good but I would find the application of almost any wood floor to be a bit awkward in this case.  Maybe a parquet style would work for a sitting area but it doesn’t have the “garagey” feel.  And, atop concrete, it won’t have that acoustic thump & squeak you’d want.
 

I retired 5 years ago and I tell folks that cash flow is not a problem, it’s the direction.  It, along with expending my own labor, does play an ever increasing role in these type of decisions.  
 

I’ll finish like I started, “you have the ability to make anything look good.”  And, thanks again for sharing with us.

Edited April 27, 2022 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

[EmTee]

On 4/26/2022 at 9:39 PM, MrEarl said:

I threw in the towel on the pine floor and will likely be going with a solid concrete stain AND SOME PERSIAN RUGS!!! LOL

There are actually some fairly convincing simulated wood vinyl plank flooring ("luxury vinyl") available these days.  Not necessarily 'cheap', but I'd consider them for the office or sitting area if you still want the warm, wood look.  Stained concrete (with a good sealer) makes sense for the garage/work areas.  Just my $0.02... 

[MrEarl]

8 hours ago, EmTee said:

There are actually some fairly convincing simulated wood vinyl plank flooring ("luxury vinyl") available these days.  Not necessarily 'cheap', but I'd consider them for the office or sitting area if you still want the warm, wood look.  Stained concrete (with a good sealer) makes sense for the garage/work areas.  Just my $0.02... 

 

Welllll, the thing is I'd still have the cost of leveling the concrete and doesn't vinyl plank require adhesive, maybe not. I mean I've got the wood but the other costs are just prohibitive at this point.  I think I'm going to be satisfied with a solid stain and perhaps a couple of rugs. Looking for someone to make like a 5x10 ft dark blue runner with this logo but will likely run up on trademark concerns.

 

(I threw this together on an online site so not at all to scale but just imagine it spread out to better proportions)

 

 

 

 

 

 

but thanks for your thoughts @EmTee

 

[MrEarl]

So I guess I need to catch up on what I've been working on periodically over the last several weeks, that being the installation of the two mini-splits. Went with Mr Cool units from Chill Ventures here in Georgia. Tyler the owner  was very responsive and easy to work with and even gave a $100 discount for ordering two at a time. Got both units and two line set cover kits for under $4,000 with free shipping, around $350 less than the quote from a big time outfit named Ingrams.
So they are both DIY 3rd Generations, with the one for the 900 sq ft shop area being a 36,000 BTU 230 V and the one for the 300 sq ft office area being a 12,000 BTU 115V. The fun part of the installation was that they went back to back on a common interior wall. The line sets and power cord had to be run up the inside of the wall, into the attics space the out and down the east wall exterior. The drain line could not of course follow the line sets up so a separate pvc line was installed for to connect both drain lines to. There was some coordination of the wall board being installed in the office and the lines being connected within the wall cavity. Pictures should pretty much tell the story.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The condensate drain installed

 

 

 

and directly behind this, the shop area unit

 

 

 

 

 

The 36K unit in...notice how well it matches the 1950 International Harvester fridge LOL

 

 

 

 

Condensate line inserted into drain line and taped up, mock up of the 12k office unit done in chalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

then running the wall board on up a bit...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MrEarl]

Running the supplied 25 ft precharged line sets and wire

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Because I was running both sets of line inside one cover, I cut slits into the rear piece and ran heavy zip ties in order to pull the lines tight to the back.

 

 

 

 

 

and just as i had figured, the 25 ft precharged line-set was about 4 ft short of reaching the units had i planned to install on the ground.
 

 

 

 

 

interior connections made and taped with supplied butyl tape

 

 

 

 

Edited April 30, 2022 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

So off to Lowes to pick up material to build a bench for to raise the units up to the line ends... Brackets are offered for purchase that would mount the units onto an exterior wall but since the office is right behind that wall I was concerned there would be vibration noise...

 

 

with the help of my sweet Reet we slowly got the big 170 lb unit up onto the bench. The smaller one just jumped right up there....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And tha's how we did it.....

 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Nice hillbilly engineering.😁

 

  Ben

[billbuickgs]

Lamar ,

You make me tired jet looking at the pictures .

So when will " BUICK Sales and Service " be open ??? LOL

Bill

[MrEarl]

1 hour ago, billbuickgs said:

Lamar ,

You make me tired jet looking at the pictures .

So when will " BUICK Sales and Service " be open ??? LOL

Bill

Bill, I'm thinking maybe by.....never🙄

[MrEarl]

On 4/29/2022 at 6:30 AM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Nice hillbilly engineering.😁

 

  Ben

 

I proudly resemble that remark Ben 😁

[EmTee]

Hopefully it'll feel as good as it looks! 

 

Having the compressor units up off the ground a bit is probably not a bad thing either (aside from the added effort & expense)...

[MrEarl]

42 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Hopefully it'll feel as good as it looks! 

 

Having the compressor units up off the ground a bit is probably not a bad thing either (aside from the added effort & expense)...

I've actually been pleasantly surprised how cool it is inside now that the office ceiling is in. My main reason for wanting the mini splits is to keep the humidity out of my cars, I currently have problems with mold and mildew in them. I think the little shelter will be of great benefit in keeping rain water from falling directly on the units had I not added it, plus it keeps them in the shade in the summer, which should be good, no?

[avgwarhawk]

Climate control! Did not see that coming. Hot humid south it makes sense.  We just installed a heat pump to heat our pool.  

[JoelsBuicks]

On 4/28/2022 at 10:17 PM, MrEarl said:

Condensate line inserted into drain line and taped up, mock up of the 12k office unit done in chalk

This reminded me of a situation I had with the  installation of my upstairs units.  I routed the condensate lines into a sewer vent line. Then, my cousin-in-law, the AC guy, pointed out that I needed to put a trap in those lines to keep sewer smell from coming up the line.  I would never have thought of that.  You can see the two traps in the pic.  

 

 

[JoelsBuicks]

On 4/28/2022 at 10:02 PM, MrEarl said:

 

Welllll, the thing is I'd still have the cost of leveling the concrete and doesn't vinyl plank require adhesive, maybe not. I mean I've got the wood but the other costs are just prohibitive at this point.  I think I'm going to be satisfied with a solid stain and perhaps a couple of rugs. Looking for someone to make like a 5x10 ft dark blue runner with this logo but will likely run up on trademark concerns.

 

(I threw this together on an online site so not at all to scale but just imagine it spread out to better proportions)

 

 

 

 

 

 

but thanks for your thoughts @EmTee

 

So, what if you could make a template and stain the concrete with that Buick logo?  Then, apply a good high-build sealer on top.  I think that would be way cool!

[MrEarl]

11 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

So, what if you could make a template and stain the concrete with that Buick logo?  Then, apply a good high-build sealer on top.  I think that would be way cool!

I've looked into having vinyl decals made of that and other designs. Then just staining the floor with a solid color, applying the decals then covering with clear sealer. Sorta thinking that might look a bit too modern though.

[MCHinson]

3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

I've looked into having vinyl decals made of that and other designs. Then just staining the floor with a solid color, applying the decals then covering with clear sealer. Sorta thinking that might look a bit too modern though.

You could have a vinyl shop create a mask of the logo, where the logo is cut out of the vinyl sticker. You apply the sticker to the floor, then paint the logo on the concrete inside the mask. After the paint is dry, you then peel off the mask sticker leaving the painted logo on the concrete which you can then seal with a good clear sealant. That should give you the look that you want. 

[MrEarl]

On 5/3/2022 at 10:17 PM, MCHinson said:

You could have a vinyl shop create a mask of the logo, where the logo is cut out of the vinyl sticker. You apply the sticker to the floor, then paint the logo on the concrete inside the mask. After the paint is dry, you then peel off the mask sticker leaving the painted logo on the concrete which you can then seal with a good clear sealant. That should give you the look that you want. 

 

As of right now Matt, tha's sorta my plan, thanks.  Know any good vinyl shops who would not balk at doing the Buick wording because of copyright infringement etc. It of course needs a bit of refining LOL.

 

[MrEarl]

On 4/8/2022 at 12:20 PM, MrEarl said:

I had done a rough mock-up of the pressed tin prior to installing the 1/2 plywood. Should work!…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Been awhile so bringing that post back up for reference....

 

So did a little experimenting with the finish I wanted on the pressed tin ceiling tiles. One being what is called crackle paint. It's meant to replicate years of paint over paint and the crackling effect that comes with time. The process being to first paint the surface the color that you want to appear in the "crackles". Then you cover it with a commercially available product, then before it dries paint it the color you want as your top coat. OR you can simply use Elmers glue instead of that expensive middle layer. I chose the latter. I was not very happy with the results, looked pretty crappy. Partly though because the colors weren't what I was after.

The base coat ....

 

 

the Elmers glue middle layer

 

 

 

and the top finish coat. While the technique worked, somewhat, I wasn't at all happy with it.

 

 

 

 

So considering that the garage part of the ceiling was done in actual rusted tin, I experimented with trying to get a full to partial rust patina I liked. After spraying the tile (the bottom side of the previous experiment) with straight muriatic acid and flushing good with water and letting dry, I spray misted different sections with 1. vinegar 2. vinegar with salt and 3. vinegar first then hydrogen peroxide over that, here below being the mixed results.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MrEarl]

Wanting a much cleaner look that I could apply a clear coat over without fear that the rust would pop through in time, I kept researching. My next experiment was to try and get a rust color on the metal but not a true rust. Copper color came to mind. From my high school chemistry class I recalled that a copper sulfate solution over steel would turn the top layer of steel into copper. I googled "copper sulfate over steel" and found several videos describing the technique and a source for the copper sulfate ............. ZEP Root Kill .

 

 

 

So I set about experimenting with this technique. Wearing gloves, eye protection and staying up wind, spray down and let muriatic acid set for one minute, no more no less since if left on shorter or longer you get varying tin colors in the end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 27, 2022 by MrEarl (see edit history)