1979 Buick Estate Wagon Limited - Southern Belle

[MrEarl]

Almost forgot about this thread...

 

heading out to Lowe’s 

[MrEarl]

[MrEarl]

 

 

Do I take advantage of Lowe’s Veterans Parking Only  

Heck yea!!!

Edited July 17, 2019 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

The factory cross member is round and put in on an angle. What is needed is a older cross member which is from a pre catalytic converter equiped full sized GM. 69-72 would do. Then one would need suitable frame mounts welded onto the later frame for supporting the earlier cross member. 

[MrEarl]

Could the mounts come from the same junker as the crossmember. ? 

[JohnD1956]

Yes. Just cut them out. Weld em in. 

[JohnD1956]

But it is probably just as easy to fabricate them.  The thing is: there probably isn't much to be gained from the dual exhaust. 

[avgwarhawk]

22 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

But it is probably just as easy to fabricate them.  The thing is: there probably isn't much to be gained from the dual exhaust. 

 

 

Well, you get some low growling exhaust sounds.  That's always nice to hear.   

[Brad Conley]

4 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

Any idea where one might look for one of them hens tooths?

 

Yep, check out http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/chevy_impala_ss_tubular_transmission_cross_members.php

 

Brand new and should bolt in when you give the proprietor the info on your set up.

[MrEarl]

1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:

But it is probably just as easy to fabricate them.  The thing is: there probably isn't much to be gained from the dual exhaust. 

 

You may be right JD but exhaust is just one part of the equation I'll be working on to get as much HP and low end torque out of this 403. I do think just straightening out that rear tailpipe boosted performance a bit and it definitely lowered engine temp.

 

55 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

Well, you get some low growling exhaust sounds.  That's always nice to hear.   

 

Rita may have a different opinion on that Chris ☹️

 

30 minutes ago, Brad Conley said:

Yep, check out http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/chevy_impala_ss_tubular_transmission_cross_members.php

 

Brand new and should bolt in when you give the proprietor the info on your set up.

 

I like bolt ins!!!   Thanks Brad!

[avgwarhawk]

26 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

 

 

 

 

Rita may have a different opinion on that Chris ☹️

 

 

 

 

Guess cherry bombs is out of the question. 

[NC-car-guy]

Can you take your current cross member to the machine shop and have it modified?

[KongaMan]

4 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Do I take advantage of Lowe’s Veterans Parking Only  

Heck yea!!!

You should take advantage of your remaining mobility and park as far away from the doors as possible.  In the first place, you'll have more room to operate when loading up. In the second place, you'll avoid the inevitable dents and dings from neighbors' doors, carelessness, mishaps, etc.

 

BTW, I was talking to an insurance agent the other day.  He said their two most common sources of claims are Walmart and Home Depot.

[MrEarl]

 

14 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

You should take advantage of your remaining mobility and park as far away from the doors as possible.

 

Remaining mobility? never new it has a limit😮.😄 Hell I'm usually so hot, sweaty and worn out when I make a Lowes trip I have to practically crawl to the store. So noted though.👍 

 

 

[JohnD1956]

1 hour ago, KongaMan said:

You should take advantage of your remaining mobility and park as far away from the doors as possible.  In the first place, you'll have more room to operate when loading up. In the second place, you'll avoid the inevitable dents and dings from neighbors' doors, carelessness, mishaps, etc.

 

BTW, I was talking to an insurance agent the other day.  He said their two most common sources of claims are Walmart and Home Depot.

 

Most likely those two truck owners, and others like em, are the ones cringing when they exit the store and see that wagon parked between em.  They are probably just as protective as us (generally) of their new trucks, and panicking that the owner of the Wagon may have dinged their trucks.  But those look like very generous spots regardless.  

[MrEarl]

Actually the idiot in the white suv on the right was crisscrossing two parking spaces, a vet space and a package pickup space. 

[KongaMan]

8 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

Actually the idiot in the white suv on the right was crisscrossing two parking spaces, a vet space and a package pickup space. 

IOW, a typical Home Depot/Lowe's parking job.  This is the idiot you're trying to avoid -- which is why I always head straight to the back 40.

[JohnD1956]

2 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Actually the idiot in the white suv on the right was crisscrossing two parking spaces, a vet space and a package pickup space. 

 

He did that so that there would be a lot of room between his and the car in your space.   May not be a friendly guy but that reinforces what I argued earlier.  He probably damn near pass out if/ when he walked out and saw your car there. lol

[old-tank]

16 hours ago, KongaMan said:

which is why I always head straight to the back 40.

Yeah, that's what I do, in addition to using 2 spaces.  But when I come out there are at least 2 cars parked around me to the point of having to squeeze to get in the door.

!

[RivNut]

On 7/17/2019 at 8:21 AM, MrEarl said:

 

Any idea where one might look for one of them hens tooths?

The A-body Buicks and other GM A-bodies from the late 60's and early 70's came with a dual hump trans crossmember. No idea how wide the are, but ....

 

 

 

 

There are also many aftermarket pieces.  Let Google be your friend.

 

 

 

Edited July 21, 2019 by RivNut (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

On 5/16/2019 at 11:49 PM, MrEarl said:

In my case the trailer will be a 26'  1974 Airstream Argosy which loaded will likely weigh around 5,200 lbs with a tongue weight of 650 lbs.

 

Stopped by the Cat scales on the way to the campsite but the scales were undergoing inspection. Stopped back by on the way home and was relatively pleased with what the weight numbers showed in relation to how I had set the weight distribution based on front and rear bumper off ground  measurements I had done when first setting up the hitch.

 

I was also pretty close on my initial weight guestimates of the gross trailer weight and tongue weight.

 

I was happy that there wasn't many tractor trailers at the scales and also that there is now an app that can be used and you no longer have to deal with the nice big hair lady inside the store. Cost was only $11.50 for first weigh and $2 each re weigh. It takes 3 passes to get the info needed to determine if the weight distribution is dialed in correctly. The object of WD is basically to transfer or redistribute the load at the hitch to all axles on your tow vehicle and trailer.

 

 

 

The first pass was with the weight distribution set as I had set it by checking the level of the trailer and the measurements taken from ground to top of front and rear bumpers. I had gotten the front bumper measurement (with trailer attached) back to within 1/2 inch of when it was unloaded.

 

 

 

Then with the WD bars removed. Note how much the weight increase on the drive axle and DECREASES on the steering axle.

 

 

 

 

and then just the truck, no trailer. The important numbers are the steering axle with and without WD. Remarkably the WD brought my steering axle back to exactly what it was without the trailer he hooked up. In other words it put the front wheels back on the ground. 

 

 

 

Coupled with the new HD sway bar on the front, the added sway bar on the rear, rear progressive springs and HD coil assist shocks on rear and HD gas shocks on front the wagon tows wonderfully and I have no reservations of hitting the road amongst all the semis that without weight distribution and sway control would have the trailer wagging like Elvis' tail at feeding time.

 

[MrEarl]

While I appear to be good with gross trailer weight at 5,040 and tongue weight at 640  when compared against the wagons factory spec limits I am a bit over on the rear (drive) axle by 50 lbs with WD on. (3250/3200). That factory weight limit was based I guess on the factory springs, shocks and tires of which I have upgraded all so am not that concerned. I guess Elvis just needs to move up to the front seat with Rita

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 29, 2019 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

[MrEarl]

and here from a 1974 Airstream Manual,  is what I had used to determine what vehicle and motor size I would need for the size range of campers we were considering at the time. Left column, last paragraph

 

 

 

I guess I failed to take into account the fact this formula was developed prior to the stricter emission standards of the later 70's.  While the 403 performed well and we were able to maintain 55-60 mph on long grades on the interstate with no problem I am still just not comfortable with the engines overall performance and will be doing a compression test soon to determine if this engine is good for building onto the top end (intake, heads, cam) to increase torque and horsepower. If not, then what... a 455 maybe? We will see....

 

 

 

 

[MrEarl]

Added these rearview mirrors a friend gave me. His dad had used them on a 70’s Lincoln Continental back in the day. In great shape and worked great. 

 

 

[Ronnie]

The mirrors look like they were made for your wagon. I'll bet they are very handy too.

 

BTW, I've been scanning through your posts and I don't see anything about what it took to fix your overheating problem. I'm curious about what you had to do to solve the problem.

[MrEarl]

1. Straightened the crimped tailpipe 

2. Improved aim of the temperature gun to hit the top of the thermostat housing instead of the bottom 🙄🤨

Edited August 28, 2019 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[Ronnie]

8 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

1. Straighten the crimped tailpipe 

2. Improve aim of the temperature gun to hit the top of the thermostat housing instead of the bottom 🙄🤨

 

Good deal! An easy fix is always good without spending a lot of money. That's the kind I like.

Edited July 30, 2019 by Ronnie (see edit history)

[old-tank]

Depending on what rear axle you have there may be sealed axle bearings that are now 40 years old with failing lubricant.

I don't understand your measure of tongue weight.  Load distributing hitches are supposed to distribute the load equally to both front and rear of the car.  The front:rear percentage should be the same hitched or not.  I remember an old demonstration on an Olds Toronado driving with the rear wheels removed.

The main thing is if it is stable up to 60 mph, don't change anything...

[39BuickEight]

[avgwarhawk]

14 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Added these rearview mirrors a friend gave me. His dad had used them on a 70’s Lincoln Continental back in the day. In great shape and worked great. 

 

 

 

 

These types of mirrors bring back memories.  Don't see them anymore. 

[avgwarhawk]

17 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

 

 

 

 

I guess I failed to take into account the fact this formula was developed prior to the stricter emission standards of the later 70's.  While the 403 performed well and we were able to maintain 55-60 mph on long grades on the interstate with no problem I am still just not comfortable with the engines overall performance and will be doing a compression test soon to determine if this engine is good for building onto the top end (intake, heads, cam) to increase torque and horsepower. If not, then what... a 455 maybe? We will see....

 

 

 

 

 

I would be happy with that type of performance while pulling a barn door behind me.     

[MrEarl]

5 hours ago, old-tank said:

Depending on what rear axle you have there may be sealed axle bearings that are now 40 years old with failing lubricant.

 

 Looks like rear differential was replaced about 30,000 miles ago Willie so hopefully I'm good on that and bearing for a few more miles.

 

 

 

5 hours ago, old-tank said:

I don't understand your measure of tongue weight. 

 

To measure tongue weight using weights gotten at the scales you subtract the weight of truck from the combined weight of the steer and drive axles with trailer attached weighed without weight distribution. (2,080 +3,780) - 5,220 = 640  The front water tank was half full plus some gear up front so compare that to the factory trailer weights, sounds about right. The WD hitch is rated at up to 750.

 

 

5 hours ago, old-tank said:

Load distributing hitches are supposed to distribute the load equally to both front and rear of the car.  The front:rear percentage should be the same hitched or not. 

 

Not sure one could ever distribute the weight exactly  "equally" to both front and rear of the car to make the percentage the same hitched or not., possibly.  I don't think that is the full intention of WD hitches. I see it as more important to get weight back onto the steering axle.  In my case I transferred 380# back to the front axle and 480# back to the rear. 100# difference isn't bad I don't think. I might could equal that out a bit by loosening the torsion on the bars by dropping it another chain link but then that would put more weight on the rear end and I am already 50#  over factory spec on that. But like you say

 

5 hours ago, old-tank said:

The main thing is if it is stable up to 60 mph, don't change anything...

 

and that is the case here. I did some pretty severe swerve testing (too severe according to Rita and Elvis) on the two lane road on the way to the interstate and the car performed great with no sway to speak of and the trailer with it's new axles and shocks didn't whip hardly at all.. Once on the interstate I passed a couple of semi's and was passed by QUITE a few and while I could of course feel the drafting, the  car/trailer handled well, not much different if at all than when towing with my 1500HD.

 

 

Edited July 30, 2019 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

I have not seen a Goodyear service receipt like that for over 25 years! 

[MrEarl]

25 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

I have not seen a Goodyear service receipt like that for over 25 years! 

 

Nor parts and labor I would suspect. I’ve got receipts for probably everything that was ever done to this car. Here’s a couple of interesting one for valve jobs and head replacement. Good stuff to know. 

 

One at 79k

 

 

and new heads just 8k ago

 

 

Sure wish it would have had a ring job then

[MrEarl]

On 7/30/2019 at 11:49 AM, avgwarhawk said:

I would be happy with that type of performance while pulling a barn door behind me. 

 

DOOR!?!?!!  More like the entire barn😲😉  The last trip we took the camper on, on I-85,  I got over to let a tractor trailer coming in from an exit and after I let him in danged if he didn't just stay along side me while all the time cars and trucks were backing up behind me. We were on a long steep grade so I really couldn't do anything.  I was checking my rear view mirrors and was seeing trucks behind the one on my right so that's the way it stayed for several miles. The truck finally moved on but the ones following him wouldn't give me gap. I couldn't get up enough speed to pass anything on my right so I finally put my blinker on and started merging over to the right and one of the trucks backed down and let me in. I studied the scenario after it was over and realized I should never have gotten over for the truck on a grade but rather should have either maintained my lane and made him slow down or I should have just braked and let him in. This is the kind of scenario where while the 403 will maintain an OK speed on interstates, in critical situations like this I want to be able to be  more in control.

 

On 7/29/2019 at 6:38 PM, MrEarl said:

While the 403 performed well and we were able to maintain 55-60 mph on long grades on the interstate with no problem I am still just not comfortable with the engines overall performance and will be doing a compression test soon to determine if this engine is good for building onto the top end (intake, heads, cam) to increase torque and horsepower. If not, then what... a 455 maybe? We will see....

 

So, need some opinions. Based on the fact this engine has 136k miles, burns less than a 1/4 quart oil in 3,000 miles (probably leaked more from valve cover than burned) and these cylinder compression figures,  could this engine stand an increase from its factory compression ratio of 8.0:1 to say 9.5 -10.0:1 and horsepower from factory 185 to somewhere in the 300-325hp range. This would be done by adding smaller cc/higher compression heads, a square bore intake and carb and a towing cam.

The alternative is to get into the bottom of the engine and replace the deep dish pistons with flat tops, add a  square bore intake/carb and towing cam.  😖

Left bank cylinders           Right bank cylinders  

1 - 145, 150 wet                  2 - 142, 150 wet       

3 – 148                                  4 – 142, 150 wet 

5 – 148                                  6 - 150 

7 – 150                                   8 - 150 

All  the plugs looked good and none had oily deposits at approx 3,000 miles

wet means after squirting a tspn of oil into suspect cylinder

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

[old-tank]

3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Left bank cylinders           Right bank cylinders  

1 - 145, 150 wet                  2 - 142, 150 wet       

3 – 148                                  4 – 142, 150 wet 

5 – 148                                  6 - 150 

7 – 150                                   8 - 150 

All  the plugs looked good and none had oily deposits at approx 3,000 miles

wet means after squirting a tspn of oil into suspect cylinder

 

Thoughts?

That is about as good as it gets.  The kind of power you want is only available in modern diesel trucks; or change the rear gears to 4.55.

Just drive it "way down the road", not just to anticipate stopping, but to avoid getting trapped behind someone slower than you want to drive.

Driving my 55 on I-70 west of Denver is like pulling a trailer on flat ground.

[Barney Eaton]

Moving all the beer to the back of the camper will reduce the tongue weight.

 

So many post.....did you flush the brake fluid?    2% moisture lowers the DOT 3 boiling temp by 100 F.

What may seem to be brake fade might be fluid boiling.  

[MrEarl]

4 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

Moving all the beer to the back of the camper will reduce the tongue weight.

 

So many post.....did you flush the brake fluid?    2% moisture lowers the DOT 3 boiling temp by 100 F.

What may seem to be brake fade might be fluid boiling.  

 

I have not Barney but the brakes were totally overhauled about 6,000 miles ago. Problem is that was probably 4-5 years ago. The rubber lines were not replaced at the time the rest of the system was done and that is on my list to do. So would be a good time to flush the system

 

Oh and the beer rides up front in the wagon. 😁 JK

Edited August 22, 2019 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

18 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

DOOR!?!?!!  More like the entire barn😲😉  The last trip we took the camper on, on I-85,  I got over to let a tractor trailer coming in from an exit and after I let him in danged if he didn't just stay along side me while all the time cars and trucks were backing up behind me. We were on a long steep grade so I really couldn't do anything.  I was checking my rear view mirrors and was seeing trucks behind the one on my right so that's the way it stayed for several miles. The truck finally moved on but the ones following him wouldn't give me gap. I couldn't get up enough speed to pass anything on my right so I finally put my blinker on and started merging over to the right and one of the trucks backed down and let me in. I studied the scenario after it was over and realized I should never have gotten over for the truck on a grade but rather should have either maintained my lane and made him slow down or I should have just braked and let him in. This is the kind of scenario where while the 403 will maintain an OK speed on interstates, in critical situations like this I want to be able to be  more in control.

 

 

So, need some opinions. Based on the fact this engine has 136k miles, burns less than a 1/4 quart oil in 3,000 miles (probably leaked more from valve cover than burned) and these cylinder compression figures,  could this engine stand an increase from its factory compression ratio of 8.0:1 to say 9.5 -10.0:1 and horsepower from factory 185 to somewhere in the 300-325hp range. This would be done by adding smaller cc/higher compression heads, a square bore intake and carb and a towing cam.

The alternative is to get into the bottom of the engine and replace the deep dish pistons with flat tops, add a  square bore intake/carb and towing cam.  😖

Left bank cylinders           Right bank cylinders  

1 - 145, 150 wet                  2 - 142, 150 wet       

3 – 148                                  4 – 142, 150 wet 

5 – 148                                  6 - 150 

7 – 150                                   8 - 150 

All  the plugs looked good and none had oily deposits at approx 3,000 miles

wet means after squirting a tspn of oil into suspect cylinder

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

 

Those look like good numbers to me.  Sadly, the engines have been, for lack of  a better word, castrated for emissions.   However, much of the enjoyment of camping is the trip itself.   Now, for the better part of our lives we rush, rush and rush some more.  Certainly when camping "rush" should not be in one's vocabulary.   With that said,  be that guy who sits in the right lane with the cruise control  set at 55 mph.   For the years I have owned my 54 I always get the sense,  at stop lights, that I need to get up to speed quickly to keep the other drivers who are rushing, rushing and rushing...happy.    Well you know what,  I gave up on that.  I do the speed limit or below in the Buick.  If I'm too slow...go around.  I'm enjoying the ride in my Buick.   Sorry if those behind me may loose 3 minutes in getting to Walmart while waiting on me to get up to speed or I'm not rushing, rushing, rushing.  Certainly I have gotten into unavoidable situations such as your letting a tractor trailer in by moving to the fast lane.  But, we negotiate it and maybe tick off another driver but they would be ticked off anyway because you are on their road that day and should not be so what difference does it make? They own the road right?     Enjoy the drive, be that guy doing the...gasp....speed limit or having the hazards on like a tractor trailer does on very long grades.  The goal is to arrive safely and not make those around you happy with your driving, Buick and camper on the open road. 

 

Just my 3 cents and a pop a-top front porch yammer.