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Ronnie

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Everything posted by Ronnie

  1. This may answer your question. Check out the rest of the website while you are there. Remote Transmitter (RKE) Replacements
  2. Have you adjusted all the slack out of the linkage to the throttle? That can cause the speed setting to be erratic.
  3. Why are you going to all the trouble to modify the Riviera parts instead of getting Reatta parts? Even if you had to drive all the way to Minnesota to get the parts from Jim Finn it would have been easier and probably cheaper than doing all the modifications you will have to do if you put any value on your labor.
  4. Thanks. I agree with that. So far no one has came produced a good write-up for installing power brakes for a Reatta like you have for the TC. A few have cobbled parts together to install vacuum brakes on a Reatta but it wasn't something I would want on my car.
  5. Any idea on what they charge for a rebuilt Teves unit? I don't see prices on their website.
  6. I assume you mean code B335. I could not find a code B355. Below is what the service manual says about a code B335. The first thing I would do is make certain the cover on on the ALDL connection under the dash before proceeding to troubleshoot the code B335.
  7. Please explain what you mean by climate control crash. That would be helpful.
  8. I must not be thinking clearly about this for some reason. How does slack in the cable cause the parking brake light to come on even if the parking brake pedal is pulled by hand all the way back to the released position? I don't doubt it's possible. I'm just wondering how. Maybe something to do with the ratcheting mechanism?
  9. I've only heard of a couple of the hoses on the Reatta master cylinders going bad. Probably because not many of the Teves units with a hose were used on the Reatta. Early '88 models had a hose, later model Reattas had a steel line instead of a hose. The hose can't be replaced with a steel line off a latter model Teves. The fittings are completely different as can be seen in the photos below. The complete Teves unit with a steel line can be used to replace the ones with a hose if you can find one. Parts for the Teves ABS are getting really hard to find. I think changing over to a vacuum brake system is the way to go although only a handful of Reatta owners have done it. Hemi has done a great job of figuring out what has been done to put vacuum brakes on a TC and I think most of it would apply to a Reatta. A Reatta used basically the same Teves MKII brake system as used on a TC.
  10. The Teves ABS master cylinder on early '88 model Reattas had a hose to supply pressure from the pump. Later '88, '89, '90 and '91 models had a steel line instead of a hose. Did all the TCs use a hose to connect the pump to the master cylinder?
  11. If your USPS package goes through Atlanta you can forget it. I use to sell a lot on eBay and I called Atlanta the Black Hole of USPS. I had lots of packages that went in there and never came out.
  12. I wish small towns were filled with cars now like they were back then. This photo reminds me of when I was a kid and my dad would take me to the Western Auto store so I could buy an accessory for my bicycle.
  13. This is a beautiful car. It looks very expensive. What is it?
  14. I don't know if the fuel pump problem is the primary cause of your car running poorly or not but it really needs to be addressed first. Here is what seems to me like is going on with the fuel pump. Normally when you turn the key to run the ECM picks up the fuel pump relay which turns on the pump for a few seconds to build fuel pressure in the system and then turns the pump off. After the ECM senses the engine is running, via the crankshaft position sensor, it sends a signal to pick up the fuel pump relay and the pump starts running continuously through the circuit highlighted in blue as long as the engine is running. You said when you tested the prime connector that you didn't see the ECM pick up the fuel pump relay to power the pump when you turned the key to run. If that is the case, your fuel pump is being powered through the contacts in the oil pressure sender AFTER the engine builds oil pressure through the circuit highlighted in yellow. With the pump only being powered through the oil pressure sender (yellow circuit) the engine will be hard to start in the morning when pressure in the fuel system has dropped over night until you spin the engine enough to build oil pressure. It might cause the engine to run poorly if the contacts in the oil pressure sensor are dirty causing the pump to kick on and off. The contacts in the oil pressure sender were never intended to be the primary source of power for the fuel pump so the power going to the pump that way might not be as reliable as it would be going through the fuel pump relay. Regardless of which circuit is powering the pump, blue or yellow, you should be able to read 12 volts at the prime/test connector anytime the pump is running. You really need to do more troubleshooting to determine why the ECM isn't picking up the fuel pump relay to power the fuel pump. I'm pretty certain the problem is with the fuel pump relay wiring or possibly the relay itself but there is also a slight possibility that the ECM isn't sending a signal to pickup the relay. Only testing the circuits will tell you for sure.
  15. Sometimes removing the gas cap from the tank and listening in the filler pipe will help you determine if the fuel pump is running.
  16. Your tests prove your pump is capable of performing as it should. That's good news. The problem seems to be with the relay not supplying power to the pump. Are you certain you changed the correct relay? The connector for the fuel pump relay (one of the three relays on the firewall) should have four wires with the colors as shown in the diagram below,
  17. Did you get this same result of no voltage reading after replacing the fuel pump relay? Keep in mind that the pump doesn't run continuously without the engine running. There will only be voltage on the prime wire for a few seconds each time you turn the key to the run position without starting the engine. The fuel pressure should go up to about 40 psi hold there for at least 10 seconds after you turn the key to run if the pump is in good condition.
  18. Did you do all the tests? If so what pressures did you get.
  19. There is little chance that the fuel filter is causing 0 fuel pressure. Do the fuel pump tests as described on my website.
  20. You said, "Just hooked up a fuel gauge too the Schrader valve and no pressure,". That's a big problem that could cause all kinds of symptoms. You need to correct that problem first and then move on to checking the sensor readings.
  21. You might have a bad fuel pump relay. Even if the relay is bad, the pump will be powered through the oil pressure switch/sender once the oil pressure builds inside the engine.
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