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Everything posted by Ronnie

  1. I'll send this complaint up to the department for you and I'll let you know if I get a reply.
  2. Merging the Reatta Buy/Sell posts with all the other Buick Buy/Sell posts was like scattering a handful of sand onto a sandy beach. We know where they went but they quickly disappeared from view. Like grains of sand through an hourglass, so are the days of our Reatta forum.
  3. As usual you and I see things differently. For example, take a look at this search of the BUICK - Buy/Sell forum and tell me what you see.
  4. I just noticed that the Buy/Sell forum is missing from the top of the page. I did a little searching and it appears all the posts have been merged into the Buick - Buy/Sell forum.
  5. On a positive note, it does have a fantastic looking alternator.
  6. Almost all scammers are new members who have made only a few posts or no posts at all. Most of their activity is via Private Messages. That should be the first red flag that somethings not right. If you suspect a member of the forum is trying to scam you, PM a moderator immediately and let them know. Moderators have a few tools they can use to help determine if they are legit.
  7. Sorry to hear that. I hope you get another one and continue to hang around here.
  8. You can probably pickup a stud finder at your local bar that will work. Cost varies depending on the options you want. 🤣
  9. Are you saying the short is in the splices under the seats?
  10. That looks like the same diagram that I was looking at for the '89 that I commented about earlier.
  11. I don't do it exactly the way you explain. I don't open the bleeder first as you describe. Your way may be better but here is how I do it: Have your SO pump the brake pedal several times and then hold the pedal down firmly (even if it goes to the floor). Open the bleeder while she continues to press down on the pedal as it goes to the floor and hold it there. Close the bleeder to prevent air from going back into the system. Repeat all the above until no air comes out with the fluid. This has worked well for me.
  12. I just looked at the '89 FSM and it shows that fuse #10 powers the headlight switch as well as the hi/lo headlight relays and several others. That opens the door to a lot of relays and circuits that could cause the short. I assume the '90 FSM is basically the same.
  13. If you can do without the flathead the Chrysler TC folks might have the car for you. Their cars have a 16 valve four cylinder engine and they can even throw in a turbo to make up for the lack of a flathead. If you like the Teves brake system their cars have that too.
  14. When I look at the wiring diagram Padgett posted I don't see how fuse #10 could blow if both the fog light relay and the hi/lo beam relay are removed - unless, it is blowing as soon as you install it, before any lights are turned on. In that case there could be a short in the wiring between the #10 fuse and the relays.
  15. Dave I don't know for sure what fuse #10 is on your '90 but I will give this a shot. I don't believe the BCM will cause a short that would blow a fuse although it might be possible. The BCM only controls the relays and isn't part of the circuit that powers the lights. I believe the short is in a circuit going through the contacts in the hi/low beam relay or some other relay. It may not be the relay it's self but start by replacing the relays that control the lights if you haven't done so and see if the fuse still blows. Then unplug all the relays and start installing th
  16. Well said Ed. I agree 100%. We have Reatta owners come to this forum all the time with problems who quickly give up and disappear. Rigger stuck with it, and with a little help he figured out his problem. I hope he sticks around for a long time. Ed I'm happy to see you taking part in the Reatta forum. I read a lot of your posts in the other forums so I know you have a lot to contribute to the Reatta forum I hope you will come back often.
  17. This one on ROJ might be the one your thinking of. If not is still a pretty good video. Ignition System Troubleshooting
  18. Think nothing of it. I've been in that situation more times than I care to remember. I just hope the problem is as simple as a screw adjustment and you get you car running right. That was the goal of everyone who replied to your thread.
  19. Remember this from about a month ago?
  20. Thanks for the info on the license bulb. I assume it is correct. I updated the chart on ROJ.
  21. That has been several years ago when I made that chart. To be honest I don't know why I left out bulb number 5. I guess it was just an oversight. If someone can tell me the bulb number I will add it to the chart. Yes, backup lights should only come on when in reverse.
  22. Exterior Bulb Chart is here on ROJ If you find anything confusing let me know.
  23. Padgett I can't see how that would be possible. Air for the IAC has to come from somewhere in front of the throttle plate. I believe it comes from the square hole shown in the last photo. I would cover just the square hole and see if the engine stalls. Seems to me like if it does stall there is a problem with the IAC not seating properly, or the passageway for the IAC air is somehow allowing raw air to bypass the throttle plate and enter the engine.
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