Jump to content

Spoke to soon


Pilgrim65

Recommended Posts

Hi guys 

remember I posted Ruby's revenge , when wheel came off, thought at the time no damage apart from scuff of tyre and small paint chip on arch, well I was wrong driving Ruby last week end suddenly experienced a terrible shudder , thought wheel was coming off again , stopped and  checked but bolts in place , crawled home , very stressful . Friend came today jacked her up , bearing gone! Question how easy to change?

cheers

pilgrim

Edited by Pilgrim65 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced a bearing on my '60. Instead of pressing the bearing off we knocked the outer race and ball cage off. Then put the shaft with the inner race in a lathe and skinned it down to a thin sleeve that just slipped off from the pressure of the tool. We had a bearing heater available, shot the bull while the bearing got up to temperature and dropped it down the shaft and onto the surface. Very light effort for less than two hours.

 

There are a lot of people out there who can push and pull, hammer and pound, and generally make a big deal out of the job. I have seen some go after the inner race with a cutting torch! Step one, find someone with a lathe that has a 6' bed. After that it is all easy.

 

It is a machine shop job, not one for a typical garage. I spent an evening in the emergency room getting a piece of bearing race cut out of my lip when I was young and learning from an old millwright. But he knew the "easy" way.

 

Bernie

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Pilgrim65 said:

Rear 

cheers

 

Rear as in rear axle?

 

Or are we talking inner or outer on front wheel?

 

If we are talking rear axle this thread is relevant and a reasonably major operation.

If we are talking outer or inner bearing replacement on a front wheel the procedure is simple and well explained in your shop manual as Willie suggests, and you won't need access to a lathe with a 6' bed?

 

 

Edited by 50jetback (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, 50jetback said:

you won't need access to a lathe with a 6' bed?

 

 

 

 

I'm kind of mystified without maybe rummaging about in old posts. Be nice to know the year and what part, exactly, failed. Big difference between early 50's and later Buick axle bearings. Also can't quite see turning off a bearing inner race since they are near glass hard. Maybe with the correct grade tungsten carbide bit, maybe. Also can't see the need for a 6 foot lathe bed. I just changed a rear axle bearing in my 57 and the axle measured about 34" in length. Pretty easy to fab up a bearing puller with simple tools and a couple of lengths of 1/2"-13 all thread. I just did.

Oh well. Just saying.......................Bob

 

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Me , purely an assistant , surprise, mechanic says play in rear bearing normal for 50s car , local chap who diagnosed rear bearing , great guy but not accostumed to classics . Actual problem appears to be to much play in front bearing passenger side , adjusted up , drives ok , early days though only been 1/2 mile . Taking Ruby out tonight with neighbours for fish and chips ! Their choice ? Fingers crossed.

thanks to you guys for advice and support.

cheers

pilgrim 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Front is a lot different. I have a brass bar for knocking the inner race out in a few minutes.

 

Be sure to take the cage out and check closely that your balls aren't brinelled. Driving around with brinelled balls only leads to problems. Be careful about holes, curbs, and anything else that causes a sharp impact to the car. It doesn't take much.

Bernie

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On August 3, 2017 at 1:08 PM, Beemon said:

Bernie, regularly checking your balls for irregularities is something everyone should do fairly commonly. I checked my balls this morning and everything is a-OK.

 

"Touchy" subject here.

Regularly?  I use to have mine professionally inspected once a year but have been advised that the older they get the more frequently they should be inspected,  so now carry them in twice a year. Which doesn't really make sense, considering they are less frequently used.  :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought my '60 15 years ago. It is one of the last ball bearing spindle jobs before the more forgiving roller bearings. One of the outer bearings danced across the floor in pieces on the first check. I think it was $70 for outer's and $85 for inner's with $20 each for seals. I put all new ones in. Over the years I have picked up a few extra at good prices through Ebay.

 

Knowing the sensitivity of the balls, not over-lubricating them, and not running them too tight has helped keep the spares on the shelf. And helped me get about 12,000 enjoyable miles out of it.

 

These little details and facts are a fun part of the hobby. On the top shelf above me is a souvenir box of matches from Tidholm, Sweden commemorating Swedish inventions. One is dedicated to ball bearings and Johann Brinell who tested the hardness of steel balls. Oh, they invented the matches, too. The box of matches is a gift for sending cars to Sweden and supporting the hobby.

 

Just like Tommy, the pin ball wizard, these small facts help me become part of my machine, balls and all.

Bernie

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...