PWB Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Greetings Who produces a '67 muffler closest to stock? I don't want any loud performance muffler and I don't want some weak tin junk. Everything I see out there is performance = noise. Even the close to stock claims. I want a factory / most quiet ride, please. Thanks much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 9 hours ago, PWB said: Who produces a '67 muffler closest to stock? x2 -- The ones on my car now appear to be 'turbo' mufflers. Nice idle, but drone like h*ll at 60 mph. They also look to me as though they are thicker than stock, as one has suffered a close encounter with a driveway curb or speed bump. I would settle with the specs for factory (size), as I looked online in a Walker catalog and there seem to be options that would allow at least a close/functional match to stock. I suppose the other option is someone like Waldrons... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Try Waldron Exhaust. http://waldronexhaust.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 I see aluminized steel and stainless steel on the Waldron Exhaust site. For the money and the infrequent use what benefit is the ss exhaust? What would be the expected service life of the aluminized steel if we are looking at a 2,000 to 6,000 mile per year vintage car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 23 minutes ago, kgreen said: What would be the expected service life of the aluminized steel if we are looking at a 2,000 to 6,000 mile per year vintage car? Keeping the car stored in optimal conditions is probably more important than actually driving it. The mufflers on my 56 were installed in 1988, but haven't driven the car more than 5 K in all this time. The mufflers on my GS were bought in 2004 and put close to 25K on that car. Still hanging in. The Electra I got from Bonanza Oregon appears to have the entire factory system with 100K on the clock. Based on this I would only go stainless steel for a museum piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) I bought some of the manufacturer and type mufflers listed above. All were too loud. I expect to stand next to the car and not hear anything. My '60 Electra is like that now, after throwing away two mufflers and buying an NOS muffler on Ebay. It was still in the Buick logo box. I also have NOS exhaust pipes on the car that fit correctly. The factory stuff is still out there and I highly recommend it, unless you are the current iteration of Tim Allen. I run a search every once in a while to find either NOS or aftermarket manufactured, not shop bent, components. Jolly John has listed a few pieces that I bought for my Riviera. Just try to avoid the guy with a bending instruction card and mufflers made on a shop table. Buick made ball and socket exhaust joints with a stamped flange and captured nuts. Some of these "homemade" ones have flat plate flanges that use a long through bolt with nuts. Most of the hand formed systems have flanges that are too shallow and do not seal like original or true manufactured replacement systems. When I did the exhaust system on my '60 Electra I started out with a $650 mail order kit. Shop time and parts thrown out and replaced with better quality ended up at about $1600 for a quiet, rattle free system that I am happy with. Some of the new pipes are in my Nephews metal pile and some pieces too bad to even try are above the ceiling of my garage. Longevity of a system on a collector car of the 1960's, for me has been about 15 years before some repair at a joint in a low spot is needed. About the same time the sound deadener will begin to blow out of the muffler. The pipes can go another 10 years, maybe 25 in all. The muffler at the 15, maybe earlier if an effort for 15 miles of driving isn't made each time you get out. I am on my third system with the '64 Riviera at 38 years in April, but it needed a complete system when I bought it and I am counting that one. A full stainless system has its own peculiar sound. If you want some rumble or throatiness they are OK. If you are looking for dead silent the mild steel and aluminized are the way to go. If anyone would like to see the junky stuff stop by. I will show you. I can even tell you where to get it. Bernie Edited January 25, 2017 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 MJ exhaust .231 620 9354 Seems he can find anything: got for me a NORS muffler for my 55. Perfect duplicate of the original made when the the 55 was contemporary. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 KEY to longevity is keeping accumulated moisture out. Chrysler, and others, used to put a small hole at the rear bottom of the muffler case as a drain of sorts. This can be replicated on almost any other muffler, too, for that matter. I've had the best luck with fit and longevity with OEM-brand mufflers (of which Walker is my preferred brand). They usually have the most "in depth" catalog I've seen, BUT then too, mostly for then-1960s cars and later. I like exhaust system parts I can put on "in the driveway" rather than muffler shop items. As good as the muffler shop might be, there have always been "issues" with what they do. Either not bent correctly, "hitting something", or whatever. Just didn't look right to me, but sometimes, that's all you can do. The last Walker muffler I got (in the later 1980s) noted that it had some absorbent material in it to make it last longer. When I saw that, I was not aware of it, but it seems to work. Once you find the correct specs for the OEM production muffler, then possibly you can get into the back of the Walker book (NAPA used to also sell Walker items) and find a close-match in total length and pipe location/diameter. They have their OEM line, a budget line, and their DynoMax performance stuff. OEM would be what you want, I suspect. For clamps, get the Walker exhaust clamps, too as they are generally of a heavier gauge than the auto supply brands, by observation. For the ball joint connections, I found a trick on those! PM for details. Old-Tank's link might be a good resource. NTX5467 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 See the flat flanges and the long through bolts on the inlet side. That is a bench fabricated muffler. That one doesn't make a attempt at looking original. Most of these pipe flares and only about 1/16" in seating width and do not have a tightening shoulder as prominent as the originals. This car doesn't have resonators either. If you are looking for a loud car it probably is. But when you want a really quiet car it is hard to get the right parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 I've read that one of the reasons the exhaust systems on theses 1st generation cars go so quickly is that the muffler is too far from the engine. Exhaust gasses start to cool before they reach the muffler allowing condensation to form. Perhaps that's why the original systems had the resonators in them. I've also heard that drilling a small hole in the pipes to allow moisture to escape is a good idea but I have no idea as to where nor have I ever tried it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 The drain holes on the OEM Chrysler mufflers were about 1" forward of the rear of the muffler, on the bottom. As the rear pipes sometimes had a kick-up near their end, there would be a similar hole at that low point, too. Hole size was about the diameter of a ball point pen refill. If you want to see "water producers", some late model Toyota cars take that crown. If they are started cold, in cold weather, allowed to idle and warm up, the first throttle application can result in about a CUP of water out the rear exhaust pipe. YIKES! Just like engine coolant and engine metal temperatures, the exhaust system has a similar "operating temperature" situation. If you exhaust system "rusts" due to short trips and such, think about your motor oil in the same situation. "Heat" and "time" are both important, as are "continued moderate rpm levels". As for the accumulation inside of the muffler, think about "the stuff" forced to exit the system on the first high-rpm/higher flow situation of WOT application after miles of "easy driving". Lower compression emission motors had hotter exhausts than the higher compression systems which came before them. The OEM catalytic converter systems allegedly had pipes with a higher stainless steel content, to "take the heat" and they also lasted longer. I know that after GM went to the bead converters, we replaced far more converters than mufflers, past that point. Unless the guts of the converter cam apart and the beads' last residence was in the muffler, as a result. NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 When I got the exhaust done on the Wildcat (at least twelve years ago), the shop I took it to said they had the specs to replicate the original system. I told them that was what I was looking for. I don't recall which muffler we went with. When they showed it to me, I asked them where the resonators were...they did some rework...I guess the guy at the counter had a different definition of original than I do. I love that it's a nice quiet car, but is powerful enough to be fun and perhaps surprising for such a heavy car (compared to the newer stuff equipped with fart cannons as one poster here once called them). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 The auto companies went to stainless steel from the exhaust manifolds to the catalytic converter to meet emissions. If the pipe between the engine and the converter leaked, then the car would not meet emissions. I know a lot of cars have small hole drilled on either end of the muffler so the water can drain out. NTX5467 is correct that the rust out is caused by the system not getting hot enough to boil out the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 On my cars with genuine dual exhaust the passenger side always seemed to fail first. I have had some conversations about that and everyone seems to agree there is a lot more hot air on the driver's side of my cars. Bernie 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Or you haven't always had a passenger to balance things out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Or maybe your flapper-valve is stuck (flapping?)... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 It wouldn't be "stock", but . . .make a Y-pipe with 2.75" end diameter going to the rear of the car. Then use the single inlet/dual outlet L69 Camaro muffler. Then after the y-pipe and muffler are connected, make extensions to match the outlets of the Buick OEM muffler exits. Not sure of the final sound, BUT it get rid of the lh side durability issue, Bernie. Using OEM parts on a different brand of vehicle, but would probably run better than a pair of small diameter dual exhaust pipes, I suspect. In general, the "dual" side opposite of the heat riser valve usually had issues first, by observation. Ready for Daylight Savings Time? NTX5467. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I vouch for Waldron's. I have gained a lot of experience with the WIldcats in my garage. 1) Senior Gold 65 WIldcat has Buick components. It is super quiet and pleases me sound wise, but there is some rust creeping around the seams and joints. System was painted at restoration shop 2004. 2) 65 Wildcat restored but I requested a 2.5" exhaust with magnaflow mufflers. The mufflers are 28"oval case but straight through design. The nailhead sounded TERRIBLE and LOUD with this system, I replaced with Waldron's stock style aluminized steel system. It now is almost as quiet as the NOS bits, but no rust. Zero. Easy and IMHO the best option for quiet sound. 3) 65 Riv has had 3 systems. First was Midas, nice stock with resonators, very quiet. Still in perfect condition when I was suckered into Stainless exhaust by a terrible vendor who is gone. It was loud and it did not live up to expectations. I replaced that with a TA peformance system, out of our topic range here. If one wants quiet, the SSteel is not the one I would recommend. As far as rust - the aluminized has been really durable and never has any sign of rust. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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