48NWYKR Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Progress is being made! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Nice work. What is the status of the engine work/repair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 On 12/21/2017 at 11:01 AM, r1lark said: Nice work. What is the status of the engine work/repair? Still working on making my own exhaust manifold and also keeping an eye on ebay for a used one... not sure how that will pan out yet. the rest is moving along nicely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 The car has a set of lap style seat-belts in right now, does anyone have any input about putting in proper shoulder style seat-belts? Especially in the back for the kids. Where and how would you place and secure the top part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 If you haven't already, check out Juliano's for seat belt systems. They don't seem to have installation instructions posted on their website, but a call to them may get you the info you need. Here is a link: http://www.julianos.com/Seat-Belts-s/96.htm I Googled "installing shoulder seat belts in older cars" and came up with a number of hits. One interesting one that I looked at had some specific info: https://www.wescoperformance.com/retrofit-seat-belts-shoulder-mt-door.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Upper inner & outer back in! New springs have shipped already, lowers will be here in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 How did you spread the A-Arms- both upper and lower for the shaft to bushing thread clearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 On 1/6/2018 at 1:00 PM, c49er said: How did you spread the A-Arms- both upper and lower for the shaft to bushing thread clearance? Two big ass bolts, cut grooves in the heads so they fit onto the lip of the A-Arm and then used the nuts with a spacer in between to push them apart! I'll take a pic when I'm in the garage next. One old timer told me "nah I never bothered with that" but I thought it was important to do it properly. I have not done the lower set yet. I'm going to need bigger bolts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Good going! I always spread em. No binding. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 On 1/6/2018 at 1:00 PM, c49er said: How did you spread the A-Arms- both upper and lower for the shaft to bushing thread clearance? Two big ass bolts, cut grooves in the heads so they fit onto the lip of the A-Arm and then used the nuts with a spacer in between to push them apart! I'll take a pic when I'm in the garage next. One old timer told me "nah I never bothered with that" but I thought it was important to do it properly. I have not done the lower set yet. I'm going to need bigger bolts! Just a mock up to show what I did, not the shaft I will be installing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 (edited) And for my next trick.... I took my coil spring compressor and turned it into a spreader for the lower control arms. Again just a mock up, I don't have the new parts yet. And they still need to be painted. Edited January 9, 2018 by 48NWYKR (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Moving along...... slow but steady. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 (edited) I'm lucky I have the factory tools....I have done several of these Mopar suspension jobs over the years. Edited January 10, 2018 by c49er (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Yeah no kidding! I would love to get my dirty little hands on a set of those! Having the right tools for the job just make it so much easier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Anyone have any input on an aftermarket Air Conditioning unit to install in the old girl? Its going to be very hot where we are going... wondering where and how you would mount the compressor... not a lot of places to bolt a bracket onto that old I8... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Go to Buick - Post War under BUICK CLUBS. Therin you will find a topic "1947 A/C". Good place to start. Get in touch with those guys. Yes , you really MUST have A/C for this trip. Been there ................ - Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 On 12/6/2017 at 9:16 PM, c49er said: 1949-50 that oval choke machined pad area is running front to rear...1946-48 the choke is turned sideways. There is an adapter plate that takes care of this issue. Make one or find one if you end up needing one. You mention an adapter plate.. any chance you have a picture of one? I will need to make one. I just want to know if the heat pad at the bottom of the Auto Choke sits directly on the adaptor plate (easy to make (( heating up takes longer?))) or if it needs to sit directly on the manifold (a little harder to make) My 48 originally ran side to side, now front to back on the new manifold. At least I was able to find one... the welding did not work as planned! Ebay to the rescue! and for a good price as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I will get you a picture tonight of this 1/4" thick simple plate that bolts directly to the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 I have looked and looked for the manifold with the adapter plate but cannot find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Found that adapter plate on one of my cars.... Even though I'm showing a 1950 NewYorker eight with the later 1949-50 Sisson choke mounted on the adapter plate.... the 1946 to 48 different Box style choke mounts to this adapter plate exactly the same. make the adapter plate and mount your choke to it in the same position as on your old manifold. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 10 hours ago, c49er said: Found that adapter plate on one of my cars.... Perfect! Thank you! Yes that looks easy enough! The studs are broken off in the new one so I have to deal with that first! The gasket under the choke, is that the same as exhaust wrap kind of stuff? (probably was asbestos back in the day?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Yes asbestos gasket 1/8" thick... controls heat transfer rate to the choke bi-metallic spring ... causing the choke plate to open at the proper rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 I had to look up what a Sisson choke was, since I'm not familiar with these early Chryslers. This came from a Wisconsin engine book, but the picture on the next page was identical to the one mounted on the Chrysler in C49er's pictures. Here is the writeup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 The 1948 and back choke units are a different style..but work and are adjusted in a similar way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 It looks like that could bolt directly onto the manifold with no adapter plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 3 hours ago, c49er said: The 1948 and back choke units are a different style..but work and are adjusted in a similar way... Mine look just like that, the square one! but still sits 90 deg - so I will need the plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 So I did find a replacement manifold... But as a backup I had some 5/16 mild steel plates cut using the original gaskets as a template to fit the cylinder head, that way you can make your own intake and or exhaust manifold if you want or need. I have the CAD drawing and can get more cut anytime, right now I have one for myself sitting on the shelf. I also have a spare set if anyone is interested. Also the adapter plate for the bottom of the carb going onto the intake manifold in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) From this..... to this! Scraper - wire brush - then grinder with a wire wheel. I got it all nice and clean, good coat of red oxide rust paint, ready for Hushmat and new carpets. Edited January 24, 2018 by 48NWYKR (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 For the Sisson choke gasket if you can't get one you can cut one from a flathead Ford intake manifold gasket. I have done this in the past. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said: For the Sisson choke gasket if you can't get one you can cut one from a flathead Ford intake manifold gasket. I have done this in the past. Thank you! I was also thinking of taking a small strip of header wrap to put under it. Something like the stuff they used on this engine exhaust. Think it will work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 seaplym on ebay will have the correct gasket...Chrysler six same as an eight 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 10 hours ago, c49er said: seaplym on ebay will have the correct gasket...Chrysler six same as an eight Thank You! I sent him a message through ebay, will wait for his reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 No not making a bomb.... just checking the clock... think the hairspring needs some work, does not run reliably, magnet and points work just fine, might just need a clock guy to take a look. Hushmat insulation on the firewall in and done! Now to mount the AC under the dash! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 On 1/24/2018 at 9:09 AM, 48NWYKR said: Thank You! I sent him a message through ebay, will wait for his reply. No Luck, he sold out of those some time back, but there are a few on ebay for around $8 so not a big deal, will order one soon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 The clock is likely to need a clean and oil and may need other attention. The pallets, the pivots, the pivot holes... Depends on how much running it has done since built or last serviced. A clean and oil means disassembling. Oiling a clock is not just squirting some CRC into it; that will gum it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 I sent mine out and had a new quartz movement put in. The clock is very accurate now and can sit for weeks and be right on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 I have had several of these 1946-48 Chrysler clocks not working.... open the back up.... carefully clean the points....they continue to work fine. I did this to the one in my 48 woodie 35+ years ago... still works fine. They are a good quality clock too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 10 hours ago, JACK M said: I sent mine out and had a new quartz movement put in. The clock is very accurate now and can sit for weeks and be right on. The trouble with doing this is that the second hand goes Tic-Tic-Tic, and in a glance suddenly its 1978, not 1948. On the upside, the clock actually works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 21 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: The clock is likely to need a clean and oil and may need other attention. The pallets, the pivots, the pivot holes... Depends on how much running it has done since built or last serviced. A clean and oil means disassembling. Oiling a clock is not just squirting some CRC into it; that will gum it up. Engines and big things... no problem, tiny moving bits.... no thanks, with my big dumb hands I will leave the clock to the pro's. We have a great old-timer here in Van who still works on clocks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48NWYKR Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 12 hours ago, c49er said: I have had several of these 1946-48 Chrysler clocks not working.... open the back up.... carefully clean the points....they continue to work fine. I did this to the one in my 48 woodie 35+ years ago... still works fine. They are a good quality clock too. Cleaned the points already, that part works just fine, but the hairspring stops turning after a few minutes or so.... its not the electrical part that needs work, its in the springs and gears somewhere, have no fear it will run again.... keeping time is another matter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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