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1948 New Yorker 2 year road trip


48NWYKR

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Got super lucky on Ebay, $35 starter motor sold as "parts only" "not working" turned out to be perfectly fine, it took me a few hours of work but after stripping it down and cleaning it up, it works beautifully! just need that dam rubber cap on the solenoid now...

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So in order to install the under-dash AC from a 60's Chrysler in this old girl I had to extend the lever for the hood vent. I'd say it worked out just fine! Also installed Hushmat sound deadening and heatshield and a new black liner over the underlay, the old cardboard stuff just crumbled away...

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14 hours ago, Bloo said:

 

The trouble with doing this is that the second hand goes Tic-Tic-Tic, and in a glance suddenly its 1978, not 1948. On the upside, the clock actually works.

 

Hmm, no second hand, I don't hear a thing. But that might just be me.

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  • 1 month later...

Well Hello everyone, I'm back! I took the family to China and Vietnam for 6 weeks and got back a few days ago. Trying to get back into real life now. Also looks like I will have to go back to work this summer to pay for all of this, so that means the trip will have to start THIS October..... only a year late... Sounds about right eh? Life happens while we are making other plans. 

On the plus side I found a great guy who still works on old clocks and watches in Vancouver, Lucy's dash clock got a complete clean and tuneup, runs like it should now and it only cost me $90 CAD! I'm happy with that.

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  • 1 month later...

Direct bolt on disc brake kit.... it's NEVER direct bolt on... After MANY hours of modifications and messing around the booster / pedal assembly and master cylinder now all fit and align properly! progress is slow but steady...

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So.. It takes 1 day, 24 feet of tubing, 12 fittings, 3 hoses, one borrowed brake hose flare tool and about 6 beers to do the old girl wheel to wheel front to back with new brake lines.

Another task checked off the list.

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8 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

You had best put the work done after 6 beers back on the check list. Can't afford to have impaired judgement when on brakes.

The beers were had after, standing back admiring my work.... and also not wanting to go back in the house to clean the mess I left in the kitchen....

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AC lines under the dash installed! (with a nice looking bracket outside as well) This means that I am finally done under there! (famous last words) Wiring fixed, cabin heater core replaced, clock serviced, sound insulation installed, glovebox fixed (lined it inside with black felt) AC evaporator installed and electrically insulated, cabin vent arm extended to clear the evaporator, window washer lines installed AND all the work on the brake master-cylinder and booster done! That means the next step is putting the engine back in..... oh boy!

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So... I'm pretty sure I was told to leave well enough alone.... but I guess that's just not in my nature. I figured I had the front and rear crank seals, I might as well replace them since the motor is out... AAAAAAND now I'm replacing the timing gears... a good half inch of play there.

 

Also wanted to check because I heard a few guys mention that there was another freeze plug hidden behind the bell housing.. good thing too because it was starting to leak.

So, just a few more tweaks before I can put the motor back in. I hereby solemnly swear not to tear into the motor any further....

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Always great to see you getting closer to hitting the road ! By using the search box, I see very little discussion about tires. Way back in December 2016 at that. Are your wheels 15 or 16 inch? The  proper radial light truck/off road tires with dual spares is a good idea. Here is what is left of my 1971 Eldo which has seen severe service all over Baja, and Mexico until 35 years ago. It has served as a hunting rig since. Nothing quite like a buck flying high lashed over the spares and Jerry can on the trunk ! Some kindred spirits love the sight, others perhaps squeamish or ignorant of game management, not so much. Compare ride height with the stocker behind it. I am not familiar with the current state of the art for tire selection , but would be happy to give you some pointers from my Mexican and South American adventures.      Keep up the good work !       -  Cadillac Carl 

 

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On 5/19/2018 at 6:06 AM, C Carl said:

The  proper radial light truck/off road tires with dual spares is a good idea.  -  Cadillac Carl 

 

I'm pretty sure these are still the original 7x15 bias ply tires the car came with!! I hope to swap to a compatible size in a new radial, some good 10 ply light truck tires would be great!  if only i could get them in a white wall! dual spares is a must, I think that is the only way to go. So I'll be buying 6 new tires soon..... ouch.... I love the old ELDO! man that looks like fun! and yeah I have gotten a few looks myself doing pretty much the same thing back in Africa!  We will need to swap story's before we hit Mexico,  planning a few stops  in the US before going further south, maybe we will stop by and say hi!

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Are there 16" wheels which fit this car? Better selection of light truck tires. And I guess you could go through D'back for the white walls if you really have your heart set on "bling". You sure could keep the kids busy cleaning the 'walls on this trip!! Or just run blackwalls on 16" wheels for the punishing trip, and save the W. Walls for the stock 15" wheels when you get back. What is that new D'back radial called ? The one which masquerades as a bias ply ? Available as 8.20. X 15. Starts with "A". Oh, my aching memory.   -  CC 

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Carl: Do you mean the Auburn?

 

I think 16 inch radial truck tires (in a tall size) are thin on the ground these days, unless you happen to be in Australia or NZ. I have seen 7r15 fairly recently.

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7 hours ago, C Carl said:

And I guess you could go through D'back for the white walls if you really have your heart set on "bling". You sure could keep the kids busy cleaning the 'walls on this trip!! -  CC 

Sadly I have lost that argument already..... Wife said it can't be anything BUT white walls.... :(

Thanks for the information guys, I never even knew (or already forgot about) about Diamondback.... but I think that is the way to go!

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  • 2 weeks later...

So today was a milestone day, the motor is back in! I'm still missing the timing gears though, I'm having a hard time tracking a set down. But motor, transmission AND the front springs are in! I tried hard to get the springs in without the motor in but there was just not enough weight in the car! Much easier with that big old anchor in there!

 

Progress... no matter how slow is still progress... right?

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The only 323 eight cylinder crank gear I ever found new was back in 1975.

I recently found a new cam gear and chain  a couple years ago for my 48 T&C. No crank gear.

I'm always looking for these gears too. I've been into 1946-50 Chrysler eights for over 40 years.

There are two types of chains and matching gears.

They are a tough item to find as are several parts on these engines.

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11 hours ago, c49er said:

The only 323 eight cylinder crank gear I ever found new was back in 1975.

They are a tough item to find as are several parts on these engines.

Well that does not sound good!! This is what I have right now.

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If it is any consolation, the chain has some interchanges, although some of them might not be very useful:

 

Continental Eng. '30-34 W8, W10, W11, W20

Corbitt '31-34 1-1/2, 8B4

Chrysler '34-50 8 cyl.

Durant '30-32 4, 6-10

Durant Tr. '30-32 407-4 cyl.

Federal '30-36 Cont. 10W motor 1-1/2 ton

Fisher '30-33 Tr. Std. Jr. BX (W10)

GMC '34-36 F16, T16, 1-1/2-2T

Gramm '31-36 AX4, BX4, CX, 1 ton

Olds '31-36 6 Cyl.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Moving along, made the adapter plate and installed the automatic choke today. Also made a redneck heat-shield for the carburetor, probably not necessary but I thought "why not"!

I have not had any luck finding an original gasket to go under the choke so I guess I'll use a bit of exhaust header wrap or something similar.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Fitting the AC pump today.... lets just say it's interesting... Keep in mind it has to be electrically insulated because the AC is 12V neg ground and the rest of the car is 6V pos.... fun times!

This is all just mocked up, I will clean it up and paint it soon! I am eliminating the mechanical fan because of the second pulley I added to the waterpump, I am going to go with two 6v electric fans. The AC pump fits under the radiator tank overhang by about 1/2 inch!

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13 hours ago, Bloo said:

Maybe others can comment, but I *think* you could run the AC clutch on reverse polarity if it would help. How are you getting 12v for the AC?

 

I could not find a 6V AC so I decided I would make 12V work, I am using a few step up converters that puts out 10A each, so one for the pump, one for the fan inside and one for the new fm radio.

The compressor mounts are insulated with resin impregnated fiberglass that can withstand about 500F, also rigid and strong enough to bolt down.  Just need to take it apart and paint the brackets, get a shorter belt and then final assembly.

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So I think a lot of these cars had the heaters as a factory option? My car had the heater core installed and the blower fan hooked up, but no way to turn the hot water off unless you closed the valve on the cylinder head. So down to the local parts store I go, find a simple push pull cable and a valve and hey presto, I can turn the heat off!

on to the exhaust next, while I wait for the electric fans. 

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