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1938 46-S (TWO of them) engine problems


Pete Phillips

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Approx. 5,300 of these 1938 Special Sport coupes were made, model 46-S. I have TWO of them in my shop right now: Both are black, both have the optional dual side-mounts. What are the odds of that...???

The first one lives in north central Texas and is beautifully restored, runs well, but loses its oil pressure after a few minutes when the engine warms up. We have taken the engine apart and diagnosed it as badly scored and worn bearings--being repaired now.

 

The second car lives in central Texas, about 380 miles from here. Its engine problem is more of a mystery, and I would like to see what others' opinions are. Owner says he bought it about five years ago; it ran fine. They had it on a tour this past spring. Second day of the tour, he goes out first thing in the morning, starts it up, but it had no power during acceleration. He says it took a mile or more just to get it up to 35 m.p.h. He took it home, checked the compression, and it was low in all cylinders, varying from 36 p.s.i. to 67 p.s.i., when it should be closer to 110 according to shop manual. He removed the cylinder head, had a valve job done on it by a professional mechanic, reinstalled the head, no improvement in compression (both wet and dry).  Next, he took the timing cover off and found that the timing chain was off its correct setting by a few teeth. He reinstalled it according to shop manual specs, and re-tested the compression. No improvement.  He says the car has always run fine prior to this, and had no other symptoms. He thinks the engine was rebuilt prior to his ownership, when the whole car was restored.  We suspected a worn camshaft, and removed it, but it has very little wear, consistent with a fairly recent engine rebuild. The timing chain is nice and tight, again consistent with a fairly recent engine rebuilt.  I guess we will have to remove the engine from the car and take the crankshaft and pistons out next. I'm thinking the only other thing that can cause poor compression is worn piston rings and cylinder walls.

 

Here are some photos of both cars. They are beautiful, twin sisters.

 

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, TX

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If you squirt oil in the cylinders and the compression does not come up then installing new pistons and rings will not bring it up either. Could thee cam gear have slipped on the camshaft somehow. It sounds to me like its not drawing in enough air to compress. My guess is somehow the cam is not timed correctly to the crank. A degree wheel would verify the correct cam timing. If the car was fine during the first day of the tour it didn't wear out the pistons and rings at night while it was sitting. 

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Don't forget the distributor. First, if the cam gear slipped a couple of links the ignition timing will be off as well. Also, look at the centrifugal advance, maybe a spring slipped or broke. I would get a timing light on it tout de suite. Obvs won't cause the compression issue but might explain the sudden loss of performance.

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An engine with a restricted exhaust will also lose compression. If the compressed gasses cannot exit the cylinder, fresh intake gasses cannot get in.

I remember one customer, a skilled restorer, chasing a similar problem.  After much time, money, and frustration he found the exhaust just packed solid with mouse nest. 

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48 minutes ago, HuntzNSam said:

An engine with a restricted exhaust will also lose compression. If the compressed gasses cannot exit the cylinder, fresh intake gasses cannot get in.

 

I remember one customer, a skilled restorer, chasing a similar problem.  After much time, money, and frustration he found the exhaust just packed solid with mouse nest. 

 

A restricted exhaust would affect the compression reading. Could mice cause that in one night. Another troubling thing is that there is a difference of 30 pounds amongst the cylinders. I would do a Leak Down Test to get a better understanding of what is happening if the cam is timed properly. The thing that keeps coming to my mind is that I am taking for granted that the car was running good the day before, maybe that is incorrect.

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4 hours ago, Pete Phillips said:

Approx. 5,300 of these 1938 Special Sport coupes were made, model 46-S. I have TWO of them in my shop right now: Both are black, both have the optional dual side-mounts. What are the odds of that...???

<snip>

Here are some photos of both cars. They are beautiful, twin sisters.

They look good

How far apart are the chassis/frame & engine serial numbers?

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I unhooked the exhaust at the manifold, blew compressed air back through the exhaust, and I get a good air flow out the tailpipe, so I dont' think it is an exhaust restriction. Just did a (dry) compression test with the camshaft and timing chain removed from the engine, so all valves are closed. This should give a pure reading of cylinder compression. Here are the results:

80-50-60-70-75-35-40-60.

 

Doesn't this sound like bad or broken rings?

Pete Phillips

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Pete, you can not get a meaningful reading with the valves closed because there is no way for each piston to suck in air. If the cylinder can not suck in air there is no air to compress. The intake valve allows for air to be drawn into the cylinder and yours is not poking. Also the choke on the carb must be open and the throttle should also be wide open. You CAN do an accurate leak down test with all the valves being closed and that will tell you the TRUE condition of the rings and valves. A leak down teas requires a compressor and a special leak down tester.

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Does kinda look like some broken rings, possibly, esp. on 6 and 7. But I agree with Dave, you'll get better results with the valves operational (assuming the valve timing is correct). However, since they're all closed now, I agree on a leak down test. Harbor Freight carries a pretty good test kit for this. And you really can hear the hissing as the air escapes past the broken rings! Ask me how I know...:D

 

Cheers, Dave

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The second ring from the top was broken in at least 12 places. Have now pulled all of the pistons and found broken rings on all of them. Also found main bearing shims that were installed backwards and got partly chewed up. Amazingly, the cylinder walls are not scored.

Edited by Pete Phillips
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With that many broken rings on a "new" engine, it sounds as if the end gap on the rings was to tight - maybe not checked at all. With the screwed up shims, it sounds like a really sloppy engine assembly.

I had one "restored" engine that had no shims at all (rods and crank). Needless to say, the engine would not turn. At that point the owner / mechanic gave up his restoration.

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"There are still reputable shops that will rebuild these old engines correctly, it would be wise to have one of them do it."

 

Dave,

I prefer to think that my shop can rebuild this straight eight correctly, having done about 7 or 8 of them in recent years, none of which have come back for problems. That's why this car is here, sir. Some other shop didn't do it correctly.  It's going to be rebuilt correctly now.--both of these '38 engines are.

Pete Phillips

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  • 2 months later...

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