HuntzNSam

Been waiting for the right segue: "It might be superstition, but there's some kind of somethin' going on down there" https://youtu.be/_HW0z86SVkc "in my USS Zydecoldsmobile" https://youtu.be/oZxDSN1LS7A Thanks Sonny Landreth!

A few years back, we took the AZ,NM state/county scenic routes through Buffalo Pass from Canyon De Chelley (itself gorgeous) to US64 in Farmington (like driving through a John Ford movie), then east on 64. Beautiful drive and the signs with with squiggly black line "10MPH" were dead serious. Doesn't get the publicity of 66, but a beautiful drive in NM.

https://www.irfanview.com/ Free download, but it is a really good program, so I send him a few bucks every year. I use 32 bit, even though I have a 64 bit laptop. Download the program and the plugins. Easy to use, short learning curve. This required 'Copy', Paste Special-bottom' 'Rotate' 'Negative', and resize - less than a minute. If you need something more powerful, but big learning curve, try GIMP, again free. https://www.gimp.org/ Hope it helps. Huntz

Sold to a local BCA member who can give it the home it needs. Thanks HuntzNSam

Unless you are a fan of doing a job twice, drop the vacuum tank on the frame and drain the fluid out of it. We got nearly a quart out of ours. The master had been leaking for years, 'just top it off'. Thanks to the AACA forums and Booster Dewey, we got it fixed and it is working great.

"Never buy some rusty/crusty heap with worn out and missing parts." Maybe expand your horizons to 1960 {ulterior motive alert}. The styling is unique and we see someone trying to sell one so it doesn't rot.

Chimera, I fudge out plates every time. The scammers and hackers are so durn clever these, why provide any personally identifiable info? I don't know what they could do with it, but since It's irrelevant to the sale, hiding it is easy enough to do and prudent. Maybe you're one of them, encouraging us to be reckless?;) Thanks HuntznSam

1960 Buick Invicta 4dr Hard Top (Flattop) $7600 This car runs and drives great, turning heads and garnering compliments wherever we go, but it is too nice for our needs. When we read the seller’s claim of ‘rust-free’ we took it with a grain of salt (pun intended). We were looking for something to drive year round in the salt belt without worrying about advancing rust. Dadgum honest seller messed up our plan. With the exception of the self-inflicted passenger floor (leaky heater core), the car is surprisingly solid. Wheel wells, rockers, and door bottoms are all solid. A Montana car,

With apologies to George Carlin, the GPS darts seem kinda baseball. Now this is football!

The check I was taught – remove the distributor cap, grab the belts or put a breaker bar on the crank bolt, and rotate the engine backwards until the rotor just begins to move. Rotate the engine forward until the rotor begins to move and roughly note the movement necessary. Loose chain/blown gear jumps out like a wow! 3 times for me – 73 Chevy 400, 76 E250 351W, and 87 F150 300 (gears). The first giveaway is running OK, shut it off, and won’t restart but is cranking really fast, like no compression. The Chevy, advancing the distributor got it running enough to get it

https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/60_chassis/index.php

We want to keep the dust on our fire extinguisher. We only use steel line with shortest possible sections of rubber coupling hose as needed. Use the best hose you can - overkill- SAE J30R7 or better. SAE J30R9 is readily available. Copper is pretty, rubber is easy, but flames suck. First thing to do on a new purchase - replace ALL the rubber plumbing. Thanks Chuck & Sally

We thought so too, but we love the buck they came up with ..the mother of invention!

11 years and 80000 miles ago, I put a 700R4 in my 52 3100 daily driver (four seasons!). It’s behind a 250 I6, and some of my install issues were due to the odd combo I had, but on the road not a lick of trouble. I sourced a rebuilt from a local trans shop with a great reputation for less than online alternatives. He set it up for my combo and just enough shift kit for precise shifting, not neck snapping. I believe the 700R4 is longer than the PG and you’ll need a shortened drive shaft. When you move the cross member, pay close attention to trans/pinion angles before drilling

How-to video for hot rivets: www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pbYYs3P91E Thanks Huntznsam