GaryP65 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 So I finally got the wheel of (with maybe 91 yrs of rust on them), and this is what I see. How do I get this cover off to inspect the inner linings? Also, the mechanics manual & the book of information is not very descriptive on how to check/adjust the brakes. Any advise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 (edited) That's not a cover.......it's part of the hub assembly. Unless you have a hub puller (which i can and will lend to you....... ) you'll be fighting a losing battle as the hub fits on a tapered/keyed axle. With a puller it should be come off fairly easily........putting it back on is a bit of a PIA as the emergency brake shoes are INSIDE the drum so you'll be fiddling with two sets of brakes. Unscrew the aluminum DB cover (normal right hand threads) at which point you'll see what I mean. When you get to it pay attention to how things come apart as there is a grease shield behind the hub which may also require you get a tad inventive. If your service brakes are working well now don't fiddle with the adjustment unless you have to and if you must count how many turns you back off the adjusting nut. The spring on top serves to lift the brake band off the drum when not in use. I had to make both of those for mine........I used worn out power hack saw blades which work very well. The photo is the one I made when I needed to "get in there" too. Edited April 16, 2016 by cahartley (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 So basically, I take the castle nut off and use a puller? Can I use a standard puller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 2 hours ago, GaryP65 said: So basically, I take the castle nut off and use a puller? Can I use a standard puller? Three legged HEAVY DUTY puller....not a Korean cheapo or it will break the tool before it removes the drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60ch Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 The puller that screws onto the hub is the safest to use. The 3 jaw puller can distort a pressed steel brake drum if the hub is really stuck on the tapered axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 36 minutes ago, 60ch said: The puller that screws onto the hub is the safest to use. The 3 jaw puller can distort a pressed steel brake drum if the hub is really stuck on the tapered axle. Yes....probably the best way to approach the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Cahartley was nice enough to offer the one he make but I would (and he) be upset if it broke. Does anyone know the thread size? I would like to make one as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 (edited) Unless your a very good machinist . I would order one from George gmcmurtry@cmbarqmail.com ,he makes them . They come in various sizes have a fine and tapered thread . Appox 200 bucks ,and a deal at that price . I however doubt you would break the borrowed one , If you follow all the lube and install instructions, they are the best . Do a search you'll see more info on them being used on this forum . Edited April 17, 2016 by ArticiferTom add a r (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Tom, Got an undeliverable from that address. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22touring Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Gary, the thread (to which the hub cap and hub puller screws) on the DB 4-cyl. hubs is 1-7/16" x 16 TPI. I think maybe your email to George McMurtry bounced because you left the "r" out of his name. George is such a nice guy, and what a machinist! I wish I lived closer to you. I would love to help you with your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 (edited) Yeah I wish you did too. I looked thru the book and it's not clear on the steps to reinstall so this one may just put me over the edge! Thanks for the correction to his email. Just hate to spend that money on something I'm only going to use maybe once. Edited April 16, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Ok so I insert the 'r' in his email and still it bounced back. This is what I used: gmcmurtry@cmbarqmail.com Can anyone confirm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Gary Myers Early DB parts in Michigan sell the hub puller that you require Another thing that I was told by an old Mechanic many years ago is when you re- assemble the hubs back on the axles do not use a lube on the taper Just have every thing clean and dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22touring Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Here's the URL for his web page, Gary: http://customhubpullers.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bohlig Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 The other method people recommend is to put all the tires on the vehicle. Remove hub caps. Then loosen, let's say, driver front nut until a quarter inch or so shows between hub and nut. Do not remove nut completely. Then drive or pull car very slowly and turn the steering wheel as much as possible toward and away from the wheel you what to break loose. Since it is tapered if enough shaking goes on it will break free. Just a thought. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 9 hours ago, GaryP65 said: Cahartley was nice enough to offer the one he make but I would (and he) be upset if it broke. Does anyone know the thread size? I would like to make one as well. You CAN'T break it.......trust me. I never made anything to fail....... ........and you are welcome to it for postage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 Cahartley, I think I'll take you up on your offer. I will PM you soon to work out the details. Even before I accomplish my task I want to say thank you (and to all of you for your help). This is the very reason I got on this forum. Not only to benefit from the knowledge but for the common bond all car guys share. So again, thank you all. without all your help, I would have never gotten this far. Ready for tires, muffler some suspension work and its on the road! I do have another one for you guys. For the tire retainer ring, is there a 'key' that keeps in on? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Air pressure keeps it on, I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayG Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 And there was a recent thread about installing them and the safety concerns surrounding them. You'd be smart to search for it and understand the risks before installing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 (edited) Ready to buy tires and need advise. Everything I read is about 30, 32 or whatever size tires x 4 or 5, etc... Here a photos of my rim with a tape on it and the 'current' tires. let me know what you guys think. Edited May 9, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 Here whats on the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Tyre size is pretty clear then. You can fit wider tyres to that rim, but it will be difficult. They are stiffer and you have to manipulate it all to get the whole thing (tyre, tube, rust band or flap) in at once. Getting the valve in is hard if the tyre is stiff and you can't get your hand in there. It also makes the locking ring work quite hard to hold the bead. I would use the existing tyre size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 On 5/9/2016 at 2:32 PM, Spinneyhill said: Tyre size is pretty clear then. "Getting the valve in is hard if the tyre is stiff and you can't get your hand in there." . Actually it is easy if you use a valve stem puller. Not endorsing any product here, but this is an example from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Valve-Stem-Fishing-408A/dp/B0022UPHHM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I have one that has a little chain instead of a cable. The t -handle swivels to an I-shape to get thru narrow openings. Easy-peazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loose nut Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I got the ones off my 26 dodge off by parking on a slight in grade lift opposite side you want to get off with a Jack....the side you want to get off loosen nut ....put a solid block of wood on axle and hit with sledge hammer on axle shaft....do a search on here and the describe it better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 (edited) Just an observation about hammering on the end of the axle. The reaction to that hammering is in the wheel bearings. Think about the damage you are doing to the bearings before you hammer it too hard! Yes, a valve stem puller does help. I have been using a piece of plastic tube over the end of the stem - I have metal stems with an 80 degree bend in them. The plastic tube helps avoid damage to the paint around the hole in the rim. Edited May 15, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 4.50x20's are too small. They should be 5.50x20, the ones on our coupe are Lester 5.25/5.50x20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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