Jump to content

Paul Bohlig

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Paul Bohlig

  1. i put the same unit in my '28 Std. 6 and it really makes a big improvement as you experienced. Definitely need to match the coil to the electronic ignition. There are timing marks. See page 47 of repro owners manual available from Myers and others. By the starter there is an elliptical cover near the flywheel housing. Open it and slowing have an assistant turn the engine until you see the marks. Use a strong flashlight. On mine someone put white paint so easier to see. But they are there. You can use a modern 12V timing light using your modern car as the source of power and your 6 V DB for connections to the distributor. Times similar to a modern car. That way you do not need to advance on column. Can play around by ear under very slow idle of carb. Paul Bohlig Dallas, TX area
  2. phone #: 214 208 0272 CDT Paul Bohlig paulmarg@gmail.com
  3. For sale.1928 Dodge Std. 6. Old age mandates sale. Dallas TX area. $ 12,500.
  4. Looks like a good winter challenge. Try Myers Early Dodge (Michigan) and Romar Dodge (Pennsylvania) Myers has a one volume CD put together by John B. It is for the Victory 6 but includes many models from 1928. The Dodge Brother Club sells a 3 or 4 CD of back issues of the DBC News which is searchable. Seems you are on the right tack to clean the gas tank and have the radiator flushed. Good luck. Paul
  5. I would buy the DBC cd's of club news as well as John Bittence's cd on the Victory. Realize you have Std.6 but a lot of info on the Victory also includes the other '28 models. The DBC News on CD is somewhat searchable and covers 30 years plus or minus. I think the Victory CD is sold by Myers?
  6. You can buy a 6 or 12 v replacement electric motor on the Model T or Model A sites for a lot less. Try Little Dearborn, Minneapolis or Synder. On my DB '28 Std. 6 the holes through the windshield lined up perfectly. Of course the 6 v was positive ground and the 12 v a negative ground so you have to get that lined up! Paul
  7. I thought keyways sheered at the key way and the axle. So, the key way would be found one half in the axle shaft and one half in the wheel. My limited experience, thankfully, is when the key way sheers; you put the car in gear and nothing happens. Take off the hub caps and the shaft spins in the wheel with the broken keyway because the key way no longer holds them together. Agree, they were available earlier but not certain I would use a used one on my car. Paul Dallas, TX area
  8. How about a Hollander on tie rod ends. Mine is a '28 DB Std. 6 I think it is hopeless given nearly 90 years and the number of changes made. Thanks Paul Dallas TX area
  9. I up graded to Windows 10 and cannot get the DBC News back issues on CD's to run. Anyone else with this problem? A solution? Originally they needed windows 95; which is obviously several generations ago. Thanks. Paul
  10. The other method people recommend is to put all the tires on the vehicle. Remove hub caps. Then loosen, let's say, driver front nut until a quarter inch or so shows between hub and nut. Do not remove nut completely. Then drive or pull car very slowly and turn the steering wheel as much as possible toward and away from the wheel you what to break loose. Since it is tapered if enough shaking goes on it will break free. Just a thought. Paul
  11. Mark each window frame at bottom of window with drivers front, rear etc. Also label, inside and outside of window . Take pics. When I had mine done they reversed several windows in the metal bottom riser and had to redo. Let them do it as they have the tools to remove the old rubber and replace with new. Paul
  12. Try Romardb.com They rebuild vacuum tanks. Also sell gaskets, springs, etc. Join DB club and buy Stewart vacuum tank rebuild, reprints articles. Also, consider converting to an electric pump and regulator. Purists don't like it and if you have leaks with vacuum tank lines, fittings, etc. you will probably have them with an electric setup. Paul
  13. Agree, time to give it a rest. The king pins are probably a must do soon so it does not drive like a circus car! The transmission issue could be: 1. These did not have synchromesh so need to double clutch to slow down the engine to get the transmission to shift. 2. The clutch may not disengage. Push clutch pedal in and put a block of wood on the fire wall side to hold the clutch pedal fully disengaged. If still grinding probably need to adjust clutch per instructions. Buy reprint manuals and John B's Vic 6 CD. Understand you have a '26 but still a lot of practical advice. For example, toe in and steering adjustment after king pins. Tie rod ends are not available but if everything else adjusted may not make as much difference.
  14. Don't beat yourself up too bad about this. We have all made these mistakes. I don't what I would tell the wife when she says it smells like baked car parts in the oven?
  15. So, seems to me the best thing is to send the carb to Carb King. Knows what he is doing; a friend of the hobby. Why mess around when there are experts out there. You cannot take it with you! Paul
  16. Assume you are talking about the front and rear seals from the oil pan? I think they tend to 'wick' or throw oil from the rear; into the clutch. Olsen and other vendors sell rear oil seals. Others swear by caulk type sealers: rtv etc. It is a lot of work to drop the oil pan, only to find it still leaks. p
  17. I have done business with Myers and they are the best people in the world. Also Romar, Glenn Smith in Australia and Olsen Gaskets on the west coast of the US. Try to compare these fine vendors with those posting on eBay or even attending swap meets. This type of course is cash only, no recourse and as they said: it should fit. Pay a bit more and stick with the good venders: Myers, Romar, Glenn, Olsen and probably some I forgot to mention! P
  18. Thanks. I understand it would a lot of work but the DBC News is always looking for great articles. Perhaps in the right mood and the right time you could submit a couple of articles. The vacuum tank gas pump took 3 articles. I for one would appreciate how to do this. Paul
  19. The real purists prefer the vacuum tank. The DBC site has a reprint on how to get these back and running. An electric will work also. Best to drain the fuel tank and get as much crud out. Under the car cut in a fuel filter. I use a 1/4 in inside diameter NAPA which has a plastic body through which you can view the fuel; maybe a part 3040 or so? Use small radiator clamps rather than the spring clamps. Once you get that far and are o/s with a good fire extinguisher at hand you should be able to see the fuel being pulled from the tank through the filter. Next use air to blow back the electric fuel pump. Hook it up after the filter and try again. For the fuel regulator the reprint says about 1/2 psi. I set mine at 1 and 1/2 psi and have a good fuel valve on the carb. If you do not the pump will flood the carb and fuel will come out the throat. Again o/s; lots of caution. If you get that far and the carb will not start the engine consider an on off switch for the electric so you can run the carb and engine dry of fuel on shut off. Easy to gum the carb up on engines used only now and then. If that is the case you need to take off the carb and clean up. If using vac tank also have a shut off on the bottom of the tank andrun the engine out of fuel. Paul
  20. The book says 1923 to 1926. Might want to soak the parts under tarp outside to see if the crud eases before wrenching. Paul
  21. I converted my '28 std. 6 to electric. Both the 6 and12 volt motors are available from Model A and T suppliers such as Snyder's and Little Dearborn. I don't know of anyone restoring vacuum wipers. Paul
  22. I am attempting to give what I thought was a '28 differential to a fellow member. Looking at the gear here is what I found: Looking at the gear side, as if looking at a dinner plate: RC 36379 then one fastener over 49 11 14 1/2 DB (DB being a usual casting to show factory parts) Looking at the gear side from outside the gear looking in: 413 then several inches over 20 Attached is a scan of the parts book page which shows the pinion gear should be part 40343. None of the numbers line up with 36379 What I have appears to be DB but what? I do not have a part number on the pinion I have as it will require some disassembly. It should be 40344 per parts book but who knows? Can ideas to solve this mystery? Paul
  23. Michael: I do have one. It is part 40345 in the DB Master Parts List. Listed at page D3-7. Said to fit 130 after M-26246, 140 after J-5089 and 2251 (Senior Six) after IS 26211. Unfortunately the thing weighs a ton. I know people ship by ocean container all the time. Not cost effective to air freight. Anyway. It is yours for free FOB Dallas Texas. May not fit your serial number range. It does have the crown wheel which bolts to the drive shaft and the pinion (also called the pumpkin here since it is huge).
  • Create New...