idrjoe_sandiego

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About idrjoe_sandiego

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  1. yes! even more if one of them turned up this week at a car wash
  2. Dave, on behalf of all the blind idiots of the world, we’ll give you 10% credit for your suggestion that the lying media, for appearance sake, “doctored” the image of the one and only “real” marathon car. Next, you'll be saying there is only one Santa Claus. Why 10% credit? After closer scrutiny, there may be a faint ghost image of the original graphics seen below Dodge 8. Or maybe it’s just my imagination. Photoshop does go way back; then they called it “Photo Retouching.” Now on to the other 90% of the argument… 1) Why do practically all the other pictures depict a very "dirty" Marathon car? 2) Why take the time to Photoshop the image to make the car look "cleaner"? 3) Doesn’t it make more sense to keep the car appear like it has been ridden hard and put away wet? 4) Why bother with photo-doctoring when a CAR WASH would take one-fourth the time? 5) If they wanted to “clean-up” the car, why bother adding in pinstripes that the “real” car didn’t have? 6) Why would Dodge approve of a “doctored” photo if it might hint at the possibility that more than ONE “real” marathon car exists? Dave, we welcome your scholarly and insightful answers the above questions. Chop-chop! It is not nice to keep a blind idiot waiting.
  3. John and Cherie are the Best! They roll out the red carpet for their guests. Hang out long enough and John will take you to the local watering hole and beat you at pool. Barrel of monkeys, guaranteed. Thanks guys!
  4. It's the one with most bugs in the honeycomb radiator. The daily mileage log shows they maintained their average speed of almost exactly 30mph every day. (Newark, NJ on August 12 =23mph, damn NJ traffic.) It obviously wasn't an Indy race, slow and steady gets you there. All told, this is a pretty good clip back in 1930, even for an 8 cylinder. Anyone know if they ever duplicated this with a six cylinder car? Who were the drivers and what were they paid?
  5. Agreed. And the more folks that know about him, the more likely he will stay in business. Like an endangered species. Good question. Now, what did he say? I forgot. LOL Just kidding, I was paying attention. It was interesting because his point was, that you could probably get away with 0.165 in end play on this pump without any problem. He said the idea here is because of the pump design, when the impeller is spinning, it tends to suck itself up towards the pump body. End play, within reason, is not a problem. He added, "but if it makes you feel better, use some fiber washers leaving 3-5 thou gap". If that gap turns out to leave too little end play, the fiber washer will just wear itself down and won't cause any problem either. In my case, it did make me feel better to use fiber thrust washers. It felt even better when I found the perfect fiber washers already in my parts drawers.
  6. Wow Ken - good find! No magnaflux needed here. Better to find the cracks now, rather than finding new louvers in your hood. When checking fan blades, don't just give them a casual glance. Some of the cracks are hard to see. Best to pull them off and examine them on the bench with a good magnifier. Better yet, sandblast or wire wheel the paint off before checking. Your fan probably could use fresh coat of paint, anyway. If it still looks good after stripping the paint, do a magnaflux test as Ken suggested. If it passes ALL the tests, congratulations, you have a hen's tooth. I will post my "new" fan replacement for the '29. It is likely to work for any model DB 28-31. If anyone has done some kind of replacement, post the photos and save a Dodge (or even a Pontiac) That reminds me, I also have a '29 Pontiac I need to check. Thanks Tinindian!
  7. I think this is exactly what happens. For those unfamiliar with this setup, the fan consists of a set of two identical individual pieces of stamped steel that are mounted 90º apart on the water pump hub with 4 bolts . Close examination of several sets of these blades reveals the small gap left between the two blades (maybe 60 thou). This gap leaves each blade essentially unsupported at this point. (Warning...pure speculation ahead!) For every mile driven, the gap allows thousands of micro-flexures along this junction and eventually the metal fails. Of course, using the fan blades to turn over the engine by hand doesn't help either.
  8. Stuart, Do they look like the rests pictured below? If so, you may be in luck because I purchased them from a great guy right there in NZ. He made several pairs of these rests. They were cast in silicon-bronze from an original set . They came out great. And the bloke personally delivered them to me in San Diego! That's service. His name here on the forum is DBNZ (Phillip).
  9. When was the last time you purchased a product or service and the business just knocks it out of the park? Sadly, it doesn’t happen very often anymore. But when it does, it is only fair to pass it along, right? Besides, maybe some other service business might decide to raise the bar or perhaps some manufacturer might decide to stop using Chinesium. Now to the story… My Dad and I needed a rebuilt water pump following the “Great 1929 Dodge DA Phaeton Fan Disaster” (That story is the subject of another thread As this was Dad’s first experience with Romar, he conducted his usual mini-interview, testing the water, so to speak. Apparently George passed- he got the job. George located a core water pump as a candidate for the rebuild. He stripped and sand blasted the core, pressed in new bushings, re-packed the gland, polished the brass gland nut to a mirror finish, and painted it like new. As a big plus, the new pump arrived well-packed and ahead of schedule. It was a work of art! Only one thing left to do: mount the pulley on the shaft and re-pin it. The measured pump shaft end-play seemed excessive at 0.165 in. With the old pump destroyed, no thrust bushings existed for comparison. Information on the issue is scant. JB-ed’s Victory Six manual states 0.005 to 0.0025 in. recommended end-play, but he provides no additional info on the thrust bushings. As a last resort, I called Romar’s for the first time seeking help with the pump. I hesitated to call because they rebuilt the pump was over six months ago. My bad- due to the time difference, I called close to closing time in New York, but George Farrell still answered the phone. Surprisingly, he recalled the details of the rebuild from six months prior. Next, he explained the end-play situation. He even took the time to answer a couple of questions not related to the water pump. He is extremely knowledgeable about the pump and Dodge engine rebuilding in general. All told, he spent 30+ minutes on the phone with me. This is unheard of today. Talk about service after the sale! Romar’s is an “old-school” workshop run by one who takes pride in his work. George Farrell is one of a kind. I would highly recommend him to anyone needing Dodge Brothers engine related work. As a bonus, George will answer your questions. I am blown away! To George: thanks a million for your expertise and best of luck to you in your new enterprise.
  10. The Great 1929 Dodge DA Phaeton Fan Disaster Here's a vacation ender for you... My Dad took our ’29 Dodge Phaeton on a car tour near Los Angeles (110 miles each-way). He was on the return leg of a fun 2 day tour when suddenly he heard a loud bang coming from under the hood. With the engine still running, he pulls over and lifts the hood. Holy Sxxx!! There’s a gaping hole in the side of the hood and the left fender! One of the radiator fan blades launched through the hood of the car and penetrated through about 80% of the fender. The blade sliced through that tough Dodge steel like a hot knife through butter. Of course, once the first blade flew off, the three remaining blades went spinning wildly out of balance. The chain reaction snapped off the water pump housing, while burying the fan blades into what was a nearly perfect original honeycomb radiator. The pump, the fan, and the radiator: All destroyed. The hood and fender required major body work. The body shop removed the entire front clip and refinished it. The hood and fender look good. The color was well matched. The Brass Works reproduced the new honeycomb radiator. They do some pretty awesome radiator work! The water pump was rebuilt at Romar’s in New York. (See my other thread RE: My Romar experience). See the pics. If anyone was standing near that car when that blade let loose, it would have cut them in half. Fortunately no one was injured. All told, this disaster amounted to over $12K in damages! Moral: Dodge Brothers Radiator Fan Blades from this era should be discarded and substituted with a safer version. Every fan blade from this era that I have checked has cracks in it. I was aware of this and had my fan blades reinforced, but they still broke. The cracks may be subtle and hard to see, but I promise you, they are there. I modified a fan blade from a 1950 Chrysler. It looks like a 98% perfect match and 3000 times safer. Don’t let it happen! It’s not a matter of “if” it will break; it is a matter of “when”. Getting cut in half with a fan blade is guaranteed to be a bad day.
  11. Who knew there were so many kinds of wheel and tire locks? Let's muddy the waters a bit more: The manufacturer of the lock did not always manufacture the lock cylinder! For some examples, see this interesting site for an array of locks: http://www.exwisehe.com/accessory_locks_tire_8.html A couple of them have some similarities to dneivandt's lock. In row 2 column 4, the lock body looks a lot like yours. In row 1 column 3, look at the cylinder cover of the "T&A nut lock" (no I did not make that name up).
  12. I believe you are correct when you said the locks were not specific to Plymouth. In 1929, the Dodge DA sidemount locks were the same as used on a Hudson. Briggs and Stratton made them. Here's a page from their catalog.