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Steering Wheel Puller?


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Can anyone recommend a source to locate/buy a steering wheel puller for a 1930's vintage wheel? This is a typical taper fit wheel rather than a spline fit (similar to the one pictured) with no facility for anchor bolts to be screwed into the hub to assist in pulling. It needs to be pulled from the underside of the steering wheel itself.

Thanks, 

                Greg

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Before going to a puller that would bear on the underside of the spokes (which may leave impressions on them, or worse), try this;  take the nut off, spray on some WD40, Kroil, or even just kerosene.  Get a knocker, an inexpensive threaded piece often used for removal of such tapered items as rear axles, screw it onto the threads firmly, have a helper pull upward evenly on the wheel and tap on the knocker.   May solve your problem, if not, well, nothing ventured nothing gained....

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If it was in my garage this morning I'd take a short brass rod and an 8 or 10 oz. hammer to just loosely rap around the at the center of the hub gingerly, like trying to ring a bell. Patience and it will come off.

Taper fits don't like brute force.

Bernie

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Thanks for the input guys. 

There is nothing to drill and tap into but the hard plastic wheel and I know that won't work. I've tried soaking with PB Blaster over and over, tapping while pulling etc. I'm really concerned with damaging the underside of the wheel if I don't get this right. This wheel has been on for 78 years and it's pretty well stuck. I found a video on youtube of a guy in Australia or England (right hand drive car) that makes a pretty decent looking puller. Says he sells them as well but the video is a few years old. I've contacted him but no word back yet. Combed eBay without success as well.

Greg

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Way back before I was paralyzed, I used to loosen the nut most of the way. Put your knees behind the wheel and push up with your legs. while wiggling the wheel with your hands. This can get it off. Leave the nut on so you don't smack your face when it pops off!

Believe it or not, I saw this happen years ago in a shop where I worked. An over-zealous apprentice decided to remove a wheel by brute force alone. With his feet pretty high up under the dash, he was jerking on the wheel with all of his 250 pounds. I saw this happening and was just about to say "We have a puller for that" when the wheel came loose and blasted him square in the face. His nose gushed like a fire hydrant and he howled like wolf in a Warner Brothers cartoon. I really felt bad for the kid but my tears of laughter didn't do much to convince him of that. Next day he showed up with two first class shiners. We took a polaroid of him and hung it above the peg board with the puller selection.

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
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I use two types of pullers to remove these old wheels...

I used to use the knee trick too and tap on the shaft loosely with the nut on.

There is a area at the base of the steering wheel where the steel hub protrudes a bit. The C-type pullers grabs at this part of the hub so no damage can occur. The other "Clam"shell type puller uses a thick piece of leather to protect the lower plastic steering wheel hub.

A bearing splitter /separator plate also works with a large two jaw puller to remove these old style wheels.

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Edited by c49er (see edit history)
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Bob,

           Thanks for the images. This is what I was expecting an early puller to look like.  The C clamp style looks like it would do the job. Let me ask you this:

                 Would you consider renting/loaning me that puller if I paid shipping back and forth under whatever terms would satisfy you? If not, I completely understand.

Greg

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No problem. I have a bearing splitter. I can probably figure this out.

Thanks again, G.

"Taylormade" in the Dodge and Dodge Brothers section of the forum made a wooden puller. If you go to the post about the "Resurrection of Daphne" in the DB section, I think there is a photo or two of it.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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I'll save you the trouble of looking it up.

I had to pull the steering wheel on my 1932 Dodge Brothers and didn't have the correct puller to handle the job.  The only puller I had was purchased to use on my 48 Plymouth and 50 Dodge - you can find one like it in most any auto parts store.  It had threaded bolts that screwed into threads on the wheel.  My car has no such threaded holes so I had to improvise.  I made this puller out of my old puller plus some leftover oak scrap I had from my seat construction project and two long threaded bolts.  I used two boards on each side for strength, with the two notched boards on the rear of the wheel able to fit over the steering shaft from each side.  The wood holds the steering wheel solidly in place, front and back.

 

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Once I had everything bolted together, I wound down the threaded shaft against the top of the inner steering shaft, hoping the wood wouldn't break.  After a few turns, there was a loud bang.  I thought the wood had gone, but it was the sound of the steering wheel popping loose after 84 years.  No damage to the wheel.  Occasionally my hair-brained ideas actually work!

 

Obviously, you need to take the nut off the steering shaft before you remove the wheel.

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I can't visualize how you would pull a steering wheel with a bearing splitter without doing severe damage to the mast

 

Because you do not clamp the splitter that tight so it scratches the post.   See above pic the Dodge truck.  All wheels can be drilled and tapped.

Don't be fooled seeing plastic under the nut- there is steel under the plastic that goes to the base where the splitter makes contact.

Last summer I used this method on a 49 F8 I must have had 5 tons on pressure on it then it popped. No damage at all...

Edited by GK1918 (see edit history)
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Nice Job Fellows. The most miserable steering wheels I have ever pulled were on old farm tractors that have sat outside most all of their years with water pouring in the center every time it rained. I had to use a fire wrench and burn between the old and already broken away plastic. The upside is that these wheels are reproduced and fairly inexpensive for older Ford tractors like the 8N and the wheels needed replacing anyway. Dandy Dave!    

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