ghaskett Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Has anyone hooked up a 700R4 to the 322 nailhead? Interested in your take on it. I have all parts for converting to open drive line, but interested in what's ahead for me on this project. Thanks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Bendtsens do a trans adaptor kit for 322 ----- $675 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g-g-g0 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Here's some pics of my 1957 Special project. Not a 322 but a very similar 425. Used a Bendtsens adapter that can possibly be seen in the picture. Plan to start a post on this build early next year with more pictures. Gary. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 THANKS for that picture of the adapter kit!! Might be a little pricey, but, no doubt, "the feel" of that 3.06 low gear and "Buick Torque" might make it worth it! Might need to reinforce the seat backs?? NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Based on the amount of space you have under the floor, you might want to look at using a 200-4R rather than the 700-R4. The 200-4R is smaller in overall dimensions and is an easier fit. They stand up to what the GNX's can dish out so don't overlook them. You should also consider the spacing between the gears.. The high geared 3.06 first gear might be okay for a high rpm engine like a SBC, but for a high torque low rpm engine like a nailhead, you want the gears closer together. Art Carr, PATCO, and other firms build really good 200-4R transmissions. Just make sure that if you go that way, you get all the parts that go with a Chevy trans or all the parts that go with the BOP trans. The way the converter bolts to the flex plate is different, and the parts don't swap. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo1 Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 Hi everyone...first time here. Putting together info on mating a 1956 322 Nailhead to a 700R transmission ...but I see that RivNut suggested the smaller 200R which is better suitable for the 322s torque. So thanks for that and also the Art Carr at Patco referral RivNut. My next question is the 200R splines to the 322 crank...is there a difference between the 200R and the 322? I imagine there is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Mating the engine to the transmission is easily done with an adapter. That's no problem. Your problem will be in mating the transmission to a drive shaft. Your old Dynaflow mated to the drive shaft via a torque tube. The torque tube is an integral part of the rear suspension. It locates the rear end. You'll need to connect the 200-4R to an open drive shaft. In order to run an open drive shaft, you'll nee rear trailing arms. and all of the other paraphernalia that goes with it. There are a couple of threads about this in the forum somewhere. You can probably find them be doing a search. Russ Martin out in Grass Valley, CA sells a sub frame connector that you can use to properly locate the open drive shaft in your car. Good luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdarrunt Posted June 25, 2019 Share Posted June 25, 2019 I used a 2004R under my 37 Special for the stated size reason. Would have had to do serious trimming of the X member for a 700R4. Used a Bendsten's adapter behind a 263 straight eight. Without the torque tube I had to make up trailing arms to position the open drive rear end because the 37 leaf springs have swinging shackles at BOTH ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott W Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 This is my first project, I have a 56 Super, also interested in getting a 700rR or 200-4R transmission. Why doesn't anyone connect to the torque tube with a new transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 21 minutes ago, Scott W said: This is my first project, I have a 56 Super, also interested in getting a 700rR or 200-4R transmission. Why doesn't anyone connect to the torque tube with a new transmission? Get a service manual and then get under the car to understand how the torque tube set up works...then you will see that it cannot be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 58 minutes ago, old-tank said: Get a service manual and then get under the car to understand how the torque tube set up works...then you will see that it cannot be done. Tain't easy, or cheap, but can be done..Sorta. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 (edited) Basically, a torque tube is also the part of the chassis that locates the rear end. A car equipped with a torque tube does not have rear trailing arms. As mentioned above, crawl under your car then compare it to a mid 60's or later. "A picture (in you mind) is worth a thousand words." For a few hundred $$, Russ Martin, Centerville, CA, will sell you a torque tube eliminator kit. It's basically a set of subframes with rear trailing arms. Edited July 5, 2019 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoty Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Quick question for one of my friends in Cuba 56 Buick 322 700 R4 Transmissions going on the back of it need to know what type of starter I should use for this application Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadhog1951 Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 On 12/30/2015 at 8:55 PM, ghaskett said: Has anyone hooked up a 700R4 to the 322 nailhead? Interested in your take on it. I have all parts for converting to open drive line, but interested in what's ahead for me on this project. Thanks. What parts are you using for this conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Here's another article you might find useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 1 hour ago, joe_padavano said: Here's another article you might find useful. Wow. I am so glad I did not know how SLOW the dynaflow was in my 1950 in '56='57. I might not have driven so fast! No one told ME it would not run 75-80. And that was cruising. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Quote That was the conundrum facing David Weinberg and his 1956 Buick Special, which couldn't keep up with traffic despite its strong 322-cube Nailhead V-8. I call BS. Having driven thousands of miles across the state now in my car, in town and on the highway, I have never had an issue with the Dynaflow. Not keeping up, not reaching 100. It is obviously a sign of the times, but it is still a venerable transmission. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 (edited) Quote That the Dynaflow-equipped Buicks were criticized for their pokey performance in the ’50s should tell you all you need to know about how they stack up in today’s traffic. In short: They don’t and that’s on city streets. You can forget about hitting the freeway, where every little-old lady in her Kia is zipping along at 75 mph. Total crock. Hell..my 54 264 3 on the tree runs 75 mph without issue. The 60 with 401 and Dynaflow will do 100 mph....don't ask how I know because you know already. The only thing slowing down the 60 is the drag coefficient. The Dynaflow does not out run it's gears....it just keeps pulling. IMO this article is over-embellished to justify switching out running gear unnecessarily. It would best served providing real reasons for switching out original with newer products. Parts availability. Any number of transmission can be used with the adapter plate. Different rear gear ratios. Rear disc brakes. Edited November 14, 2019 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 I don't expect that you'll be trying this in the near future but just to show you how well a Dynaflow can hold up and what kinds of speeds can be had in a car with a Dynaflow. Watch this: Listen around just before the 10 minute mark when the transmission is discussed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 The car was/is tougher than the drivers. Wonder if anything like that has been done since. I think folks that belittle Dynaflow have never driven one that is in good condition. Even on the Straight Eight. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 12 hours ago, RivNut said: I don't expect that you'll be trying this in the near future but just to show you how well a Dynaflow can hold up and what kinds of speeds can be had in a car with a Dynaflow. Watch this: Listen around just before the 10 minute mark when the transmission is discussed. Smells like racing..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now