moose50 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 About a year ago, a friend of mine told me he knew somebody that had a 26 Plymouth (I know, no Plymouth yet that year) I got ahold of the guy last spring, saw that it was Dodge, and made the deal. I went to pick it up finally yesterday. It is rough, but I'm happy. This guy had it for over 20 years in his driveway under a heavy tarp. We put tires on it from my speedster project, got the rear wheels to turn(brakes were tight) and pulled it on to the trailer. The numbers say this car was built late in the 27 model year. Late March. It has a "D" engine? Separate starter and generator kinda like my Fast Four, but the water pump is between the distributer and generator. 20 years it sat, and after I got it home, I put a hand crank to it and it's not locked up! Turning it slowly, I could even feel some compression! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Awesome!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) Based on the location of the carburetor, if it is a 1927, it is very early. I have a 1927 produced in May 1927 and the carburetor is on the passenger side of the engine and attached to the manifold. See attached chart and compare with your serial number.Dodge numbers.pdf Edited October 19, 2015 by hwellens (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 What amazes me is they're still out there. Around me all that stuff has pretty well been pulled out in the sunlight and hot rodded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Based on the location of the carburetor, if it is a 1927, it is very early. I have a 1927 produced in May 1927 and the carburetor is on the passenger side of the engine and attached to the manifold. See attached chart and compare with your serial number.Yeah, that chart puts it made in late March '27 also. It's A-874xxx. I guess their were a lot of changes in a short period of time right about then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 It looks like you were near the engine change. See attached.Harry1927 Model Year Engines.doc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 It looks like it has the cast iron rear engine mount. If indeed it does, it is a 1927 126 Model. (the second of 3 series in 1927) These have the tranny moved back 1 1/2" which makes the driveshaft and torque tube an 1 1/2" shorter too. The front of the driveshaft and u-joint are splined instead of square like earlier models. The next series, 124 (fast four), moved the tranny back forward again so the driveshaft is back to the 1 1/2" longer but still splined. Don't get the 2 mixed up. Ask me how I know! Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 It looks like you were near the engine change. See attached.HarryThanks for posting that. My 2 are 765,956 and 709,768 and I finally why they have different engines....based on serial numbers they should both be type C engines. This is the first time I have seen the caveat that they overlapped the B and C engines. Having spent 29 in aerospace I am appalled at the lack of configuration management. :-). As a vintage car fan I feel like an archeologist searching for historical truth and I just found a gem! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 It looks like you were near the engine change. See attached.HarryVery near the change, I guess. The engine has the number "D 910xxx"(I think I remember that right) Is this a 5 main bearing block? First series D block in the second series 126 model 1927 car. Confusing. Well, not too bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 It actually made spark yesterday! New later coil, powered by a 6v charger, positive ground, turning with the hand crank. Someone had tried, long ago to get it going, apparently. They had it hooked up 6v negative ground with some jumper wires to the coil. Even the jumper wires were cloth covered and very old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 I heard it run (poorly) today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Slowly, but surely, I am doing things to this car. Now I am trying to remove the oil pan, so that all the sludge can be cleaned out. Oil lines carefully removed, all bolts removed, oil pump shaft is loose, but it won't come down at the rear. It appears as though there are tabs that are holding it up, and it needs to be slid forward to drop the rear of the pan. But, there is a pin on the passenger side between the last two bolt holes. Any good ideas, or what am I doing wrong? I really don't want to force it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 Eight more bolts away and the flywheel cover lets everything go. Definitely a five main bearing block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Be very observant of how the rear seal looks when taken apart. It's easy to make them leak when put back together. When I took the pan off of my '18 it was completely filled with cotton, couldn't see the crankshaft. The starter / generator was off for years and the little SOB made himself at happy home. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 It runs! The body is off so that I can repair the floor rails. I rebuilt the oil pump and plumbed a filter in on the pressure side of the pump and it still has 4psi! Now I need to repair the radiator so that I can run it for more than just a few minutes at a time. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 Great first run ! Doodlebug A ! And nice bucket seats . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 Too cool! Keep up the good work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Now it runs, drives, stops, and leaks water! It is basically pouring water out of the back of the water pump at the shaft. I wasn't able to turn the nut around the shaft either way. The nut on the front had a slow drip, and was able to be tightened carefully, so it's better now. Still it ran for more than half an hour. No other leaks. I'm pretty happy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Nice! Is the radiator deflecting back as much as it seems when you rev it? Are you planning to add some brackets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Nice! Is the radiator deflecting back as much as it seems when you rev it? Are you planning to add some brackets?No, there is no deflection at all. Solid mounted to the frame. YouTube has this stabilization thing they can do to your video. This was the first time I used it, not going to use it again. Is there a way to redo the packing on the rear seal without removing the pump? If I get that nut to move? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Vary cool and love those seats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Front Row Speedster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Just remember, all the packing nuts turn the same direction in relation to the shaft. So, some are left hand thread, some are right. They loosen in the opposite direction the shaft turns. Once loose, slide the nut back away, then slide the gland out, clean out with a small wire, etc. Then put a round or 2 of water pump packing around the shaft, push the gland in, start the nut but don't over tighten. If the shafts are grooved from years of wear the will not seal well and eat up the packing pretty quickly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 I would be interested in the details on what oil filter you used, where you got it, maybe some photos of it installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 I think there's a brass washer in in the gland nut . Do NOT put packing between them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 I would be interested in the details on what oil filter you used, where you got it, maybe some photos of it installed. I will take some pictures, and add them in the next few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Great, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsnooks Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Yes I would like to see how you installed the oil filter also. Awesome project. Same engine as mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcaug Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I have a 26 and am looking for new wood for the whole top including the rim. Any idea where you are going to look for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I have a 26 and am looking for new wood for the whole top including the rim. Any idea where you are going to look for that.Hi, I don't know anywhere to buy the wood, but it had enough still there that I am going to be able to rebuild it from those pieces as a pattern. I've got a wood working shop in the top floor of my barn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Here are the pictures of the filter and adapter. I made a bracket that bolted on with two of the pan bolts on the passenger side. I cut into the oil supply line that goes from the pump to the check valve, and used 3/8" rubber fuel/oil line clamped onto the copper. The adapter came with the wrong size connectors (way too big- 1/2") but the hardware store has the 3/8" connectors. Then I went to the parts store and found the biggest filter that fit onto the adapter. The one that's on there is a Motorcraft FL1A. I figured that at such a low pressure, it would need as much area as possible to keep the flow high. Seems like it is working. For my pickup, since I'm going to put the engine dust pans back in, I'll have to make the bracket lower. Hopefully it won't lower the filter below the oil pan bottom. If it does I may need to find a shorter filter, and change it more often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Interesting. I had read somewhere that a regular paper filter like this would be too much restriction for the Dodge's small oil pump. Do you still get 4 psi on the gauge on start up? How low does it drop when warmed up? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 The gauge goes to 4 at start up and stays in the 3 to 4 range all the time. At low idle when warmed fully it drops to 2-1/2. I did put a new spring and gaskets in the pump when I had the pan off. Maybe that keeps it higher? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) Today I made another bracket to add a filter to my pickup. 27 C engine. This one will have the splash pans going back in, so the bracket lowers the adapter underneath it. I'll have to wait to find out if the filter comes down below the pan as it is off right now. I'm still working on the oil pump, needs to be re-bushed in the housing. Lots of play in the shaft, and wear in the steel cover. The bracket is made from 20 gauge steel. The holes at the top, in the last picture, are the mounting holes to be held with oil pan bolts. Edited January 13, 2016 by moose50 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Nice work on the bracket. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 I've been making progress on my coupe in the last couple of weeks. Mostly body/floor support since it was in pretty bad shape when I got it. I made new floor rails out of 1-1/4" square tube after bracing the body with temporary smaller square tube. Soon I'll make the body mounts by attaching 16 gage sheet steel to the bottoms of the new rails on each side. Then re-attach the seat frame and strengthen it. Right now the doors close nicely, and line up fairly well. I'm happy with how it is coming together. The first picture shows how the rail is attached at the front to the cowl. It's bolted now, in case adjustments were needed, but will be welded soon. Second picture shows the new rails on the drivers side, and some temporary bracing. Third is more bracing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) This is what I've done this past month. Finished the trunk floor, made patch panels(cowl bottoms, and in front of the rear fenders) floorboards and seat frame. The top was almost completely rotted away, so I made a mostly flat insert out of plywood, then added four bows made of quarter inch thick poplar and blocks in the middle. That gave it a slight dome, then stretched chicken wire, padding and covered it with cobra long grain black vinyl. Also in the past year I had a windshield made and put into the better of the two frames I had. Edited February 2, 2017 by moose50 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose50 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) Also the Fast Four has been at the babbit shop for a long time. Hopefully done soon. Made new door bottoms in the last couple of days, I'll add some pictures soon. Edited February 2, 2017 by moose50 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcaug Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 GOOD JOB! Nice work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewest Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Is this DB roadster a 27? It hasn't been moved in over 5 decades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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