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vicpanza last won the day on November 4 2015

vicpanza had the most liked content!

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About vicpanza

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    Pittsburgh area


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    Appreciate technology and enjoy working with my hands. Not intimidated by any of this old stuff!

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  1. I don't believe I have any parts with original paint. I will ask my body guy about the brand paint. But, he did custom formulate it. Don't know about Plymouth, colors.
  2. I have this steering wheel puller. Used a standard gear puller for the pitman arm. It was harder to get off then the steering wheel. I think I would start by rebuilding the great box with new seal and gaskets. I also rebuild my drag link, and installed new tir rod ends. Maybe I'll have to fly othere then and get my hands dirty.
  3. The wiper panel has been painted. We did use the original for color match. LMK in you are interested.
  4. BTW, mixed up messages about the steering wheel puller. If you want to use my wiper cover for a color match, LMK and I will mail it over. Thx
  5. John I have a spare wiper access cover that is painted that would be good for a color match. If you need my steering wheel puller, I could send it along. LMK
  6. In addition to the above info, please keep in mind that this is very old technology. Even though my steering components are mostly new and tight, this system has some play in it. I bought a steering wheel puller off eBay yeras ago that did the trick. Have now used it for several projects. If you need one, I could lend it to you. Just pay postage costs in both directions. Or, check with your local auto parts stores as they may have one to lend you. I have used some bolt loosner on mine and a few turns on the pulled and it poped right off. That's after several weeks of manually puling, etc.:) LMK
  7. My body guy custom mixed my paint. I don't have a formula. Do you have any grey left to use for color match? If not, I may be able to get you a sample. LMK
  8. This is actually fairly easy to rebuild, provided the gears are not worn out. You'll want to install a new seal and some shims where the top attaches. The only error I made was not to use enough silicon sealer when I put the body back together, and it leaked. (I had to mand make that gasket...the one that goes between the two sections of the body) Had to take it out of the truck and fix. So, once done, fill it with steering fluid and stand it up to see if it leaks. Lot easier to fix if you don't have to take it out again. Let me know if you have any questions. My truck is a '37 MC and I am sure the gear boxes are the same.
  9. On my '37, I had the outer gasket that Alan shows and the tape that went around the glass and sealed it to the window frame channel. I didn't have any other gaskets on my front window.
  10. Good luck with your truck, and let me know if you have any questions along the way
  11. Not sure if this is much help, but here are a few pictures I took for another fellow. The blocks fit in the front corners for the cab between the lower flange and cab floor. The bolts fit through cut-outs in the block, not holes. Do you have a set of these blocks?
  12. I found a donor truck that someone was chopping and took all the sheet metal, except for the bed. Sold the cab and other parts, but used those fenders, rear and front. This was the first full restoration I did and got kind of carried away. Used to restore antique toy trains, but it was much simpler given their size. It was an obsession, but seeking help for that. Have a 1961 Nash Metro and Triumph TR3 in line for next projects. But, getting smarter about those, and doing more work myself, and finding better sources for parts. Thanks for your note.
  13. Yes, there are the original running boards, and believe there was not welting between the ends of the running boards and fenders (front or back). But, my truck was in such bad condition that much of this stuff was gone. The fronts of my rear fendesr had been chopped off. Attached a few pics of what I startered with
  14. When I was assembling, I also had that concern. Using a few clamps, I was able to pull the fender and running board into position. The splash pan on one side of my truck fit perfectly, the other was straight and there was a large gap between it and the fender. I was able to work it into shape/position and get some bolts in it. Once tighten down, it all lined up and came together. Hope this helps.
  15. Thanks for the comments regarding the transmission. Need some more time on this and optimistic I can get her to shift down. I did disassemble and clean this installing new seals and gaskets. My running boards were original. A solid steel base that had a rubber coating vulcanized to the surface, just as you described. There was an old guy in TN by the name of Huntly Acuff who did these using original style dies, but believe he passed away. The only other company I am aware of in the US who does them is RAM Restorations in VA (Charlie Little). The interior door cards and other covers are repos from QuietRide in Stockton, CA. The panels are very close to the originals in surface texture with leatherette like finish, and lines pressed in certain areas as the originals. Given my obsession with my project, I ended up making paper templates of the door cards and front kick panels and they cut them to size for me. We then drilled the mounting holes on site and painted with our grey paint. The folks ate Quiet Ride were really great about working with me on this basis. (the original door cards they sent didn't fit to my liking and they insisted I just keep them and they made me custom cards to my templets). I did the same thing with my floor mat. Bought stock material from Restoration Specialties in Winder, PA, and made a template for that as well. Got a nice fit.