Rogillio Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 (edited) It official today....I am a collector of 1926 DB Coupes.The strange thing is, based on the serial numbers they came off the assembly line within 6 weeks of each other and have some real differences. Maybe part of it was options.I am very excited and can't wait to get started on the restoration!I got the green one today. Drove 9 hrs RT to get it....got it for $6k. It is not running but, like anyone selling an old car says, "it was running when the parked it" 6 years ago. This one is more 'original' than my other one and I will use it as the new 'standard' original.I like the wood spokes of my first car but the steel wheels were an option so it's cool to have both. Edited May 22, 2015 by Rogillio (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Gee.......and cowl lights on BOTH of them to boot....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Sweet! My 2 1931 DB coupes were built a couple of weeks apart and are very different. It was the month of February which was a change over month for certain details. The earlier coupe has two door hinges and the later one has three. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Great find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 I need tires. Will tire places like Goodyear and Big Ten have tire? Will they know how to mount them on these old rims? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 I thought the rod connecting the two headlight holders was missing on the green car....but there are no holes for it. They should have kept it there IMO. The drivers side fender had popped the rivets on the underside. The rod would have provided structural support by distibuting some of the load to the other fender. Maybe they thought it looked better w/o that rod going in front of the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 If your '26 is still using 32 × 4 tires the cheapest I found (not that there are many places to check) is Lucas Classic Tires. http://www.lucasclassictires.com/32x4_c108.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 I need tires. Will tire places like Goodyear and Big Ten have tire? Will they know how to mount them on these old rims?http://forums.aaca.org/topic/255942-1926-split-rims/ There is a serious risk of fatality or injury if you are inexperienced in fitting tires to split ring rims but if you are very careful you can do it yourself. I DOUBT you will find a shop prepared to fit tires to these rims. They used to use a heavy steel cage but you could use chains or straps if you have to do it yourself. Because of the risk involved, the trade call these rims "widow makers" but in fact that term is correctly used for the infamous Ford Truck split rim types. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 Just last week I installed a new tire on a Dodge 2 piece disc rim and it wasn't bad at all. I used talcum powder inside the tire and smeared on the tube. Installing the split ring was best accomplished with a medium sized flat blade screw driver, work it around with the assembly lying on the floor. As mentioned in one of the threads on this subject, I filled it slowly with the wheel vertical, from behind and reaching through the middle. The only hard part is avoiding scratching the paint on wheel/ring when installing ring.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 http://forums.aaca.org/topic/255942-1926-split-rims/ There is a serious risk of fatality or injury if you are inexperienced in fitting tires to split ring rims but if you are very careful you can do it yourself. I DOUBT you will find a shop prepared to fit tires to these rims. They used to use a heavy steel cage but you could use chains or straps if you have to do it yourself. Because of the risk involved, the trade call these rims "widow makers" but in fact that term is correctly used for the infamous Ford Truck split rim types. Ray.These are NOT split rims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 Hi Mike, Glad to hear the tire fitting went o.k... I believe we owe a debt of gratitude to Wayne Sheldon for his sensible advice. I have read elsewhere that after inflating the tire slowly, it should be deflated and pumped up again. Whether this is necessary, I can't say. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 Hi Mike, Glad to hear the tire fitting went o.k... I believe we owe a debt of gratitude to Wayne Sheldon for his sensible advice. I have read elsewhere that after inflating the tire slowly, it should be deflated and pumped up again. Whether this is necessary, I can't say. Ray.Yes....it will help smooth out the wrinkles in the tube by inflating it without the valve stem core in it. Re-insert the core and re-inflate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 These are NOT split rims.You will note that I said they were split ring rims - not split rims. I do know the difference.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 You will note that I said they were split ring rims - not split rims. I do know the difference....I don't Educate me. What do I have? Are they dangerous? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) NO, but you need a rim spreader in order to change the tire. Worst thing you can do is pinch a finger. Edited May 24, 2015 by nearchoclatetown (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) Let's clear this up. The split ring type disc wheels that Mike C and I have do not need a rim spreader. They are in two parts; the rim proper and a split retaining ring; sometimes called a "snap" ring. It is vital that these are fitted like Mike said because if incorrectly fitted the ring can fly off during inflation with potentially dire consequences. Always inflate these SLOWLY. No special tools are required but the modern trade sees them as dangerous - although they are not as dangerous as the "widow maker" split rims as fitted to some trucks. The "split rim" as fitted to wood wheels is a one piece rim that will require a rim spreader. These are not dangerous rims to handle as nearchoclatetown has said, so long as the tool is used correctly. The link that I posted - No.8 - has some excellent information on how to handle tire changing safely. Ray. Edited May 24, 2015 by R.White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 I decided to start with the spare. I used 2 big flat head screwdrivers to get the ring off. Used 3 screwdrivers to get the tire off....with a little happier action on the tire to help it along.So is this the ring that is dangerous? I was thinking Por 15 for the backside and outer rim and ring and primer and lacquer for the front of disc. Or maybe Por 15, primer and lacquer on the front? What say you?So do I need a chain around the tire and ring when inflating? I read about using talc powder....and other tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 BTW, this took about 4 hours. Some men play golf. Some men sit in a boat catching fish. Me? I sit at me workbench with an angle grinder and I'm in my happy place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Zetnick Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 I didn't see it over the tube in the middle photo, but I'd get tire rubber tube flaps that keep the tire tube from rubbing against the inside of your wheel rim....you may already know this from having your other Dodge or may already have them....I just didn't see one in photos. BTW, a very cool pair of cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) You are enjoying your hobby, and that is how it should be. I was at first horrified that something as innocuous looking as the tire retaining ring could be that risky but having researched the subject I am satisfied now that the chances of personal injury are virtually eliminated if you know what you are doing and take the necessary precautions. The ring needs to be clean and in good condition and properly fitted. As Mike C said position yourself behind the wheel with the wheel vertical. Don't forget the flaps (rim tapes). Soap the tire to allow it to slide over the ring edge easily. Use talc on the tube and inflate very slowly with your arm through the hole. Anything that helps reduce the risk of the ring flying off - chain, straps etc. can only be a good thing. The only experience I have had in changing a tire is with an Austin Seven wheel which is as safe to do as a motor cycle wheel. The only thing I would recommend is that you employ a selection of tire levers as there is then less risk of pinching the inner tube than with screw drivers. It is apparently quite common for the novice to puncture the tube he has just fitted. As Mike said, your biggest problem is going to be spoiling the paintwork. My wheels are painted same finish as the bodywork but the snap ring is black. Take care. Ray. Edited May 24, 2015 by R.White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) So is this the ring that is dangerous?I was thinking Por 15 for the backside and outer rim and ring and primer and lacquer for the front of disc. Or maybe Por 15, primer and lacquer on the front? What say you?So do I need a chain around the tire and ring when inflating? Yes, those locking rings have been known to fly off during inflation. Put a couple of straps around tire and wheel through the hub to prevent it flying off. You will probably be inflating the tires to 40 psi (mine are) so there is a bit of force in there. Ray suggests soaping the tire: I did that once, it was still wet in there next time I took the tire off, many months later. This is unhelpful if there is any rust about. I prefer talc, but don't breath the talc - the particles are very small and can be hard on the lungs because they never come out again. POR-15 does not do well in the sun so needs to be covered. No doubt you are aware - POR-15 needs a "tooth" to stick to. Either paint on a wire brushed rusty surface or use a metal prep on it first. Take care not to polish the rust with the wire brush! Edited May 24, 2015 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) "Ray suggests soaping the tire: I did that once, it was still wet in there next time I took the tire off, many months later. This is unhelpful if there is any rust about." My apologies. I hadn't considered the rust element. I took my first job in our local Tyre and Battery centre and this was the way I was taught to do it and It's the way they do it to this day. I doubt they are (or ever were) bothered about rust. On reflection, I think you are right; talc is probably the better option. I will remember this in future. Thank you. Ray. Edited May 24, 2015 by R.White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I have tried using Por 15, twice and both time not happy with result, Use a two part expoxy primer and top coat, or have them powder coated . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 How come you guys didn't tell me this?! Not really looking for anything specific but I was browsing the Book of Information to see if they said anything about the steel wheels. I am so glad I did! I read the the lugs on the left side of the car had left handed threads. I would never have guessed this and would have probably broken off a lug tightening it trying to get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 The first time I came across left handed lugs was when I started working at the tyre centre (see how we spell that ) As the job was so long ago I am afraid I didn't think about mentioning it. After a while, some things come as second nature but I can appreciate how perplexing it must have been to find out something like that by chance. You were either lucky or there's a guardian angel looking down on you. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) The headlight bars started in 1921 and continued well on past the 1926 Models in different forms. All the 26's had the round rod bent 90 degrees at each end just like the earlier ones. Maybe somewhere back in time someone welded up the holes in the headlight mounts, or possibly substituted some 1920? or earlier mounts. POR 15. I have used it many times and when used as DIRECTED it works as advertised and does a great job. BTW, the POR stands for "paint over rust" and it means it. If you paint it over bare shiny metal it will not stick. It needs a rough surface with "tooth". It is great for frames, etc that are not in the sun as it has no U.V. resistance whatsoever. If using it in an area that will be exposed to sun, paint over it with regular paint. All the original lug nuts have L or R on them to make it easier to remember. Left on the left side, right on the right. When inflating these old wheels, I try to always slide them under a car in case one pops a ring or tire. But then I have a ton of old cars sitting around to use. But do restrain them somehow if you value your hands, head or life, please. Edited May 27, 2015 by dwollam (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Now there a new concept in restoration Paint over RustMight as well have a rustic-rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 I found several places that do powder coating and so sent requests for quotes to two of them. One came back and said $150 per wheel. The other came back and said $50 per wheel. WTH? Really, 3x difference in price? The higher price one is in the a big city with lots of aerospace work so maybe they are used to big contracts. The low price quote came from a small town about 45 miles south of me. I'm gonna give the $50 place a shot with 2 wheels and see how they look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I had a local place sandblast and powdercoat my six wire wheels for 60 bucks each. They did a real nice job and when I went to put the tires on, the new, smooth surface made the job incredibly easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 I had a local place sandblast and powdercoat my six wire wheels for 60 bucks each. They did a real nice job and when I went to put the tires on, the new, smooth surface made the job incredibly easy. Awesome! So the $50 sounds like a good quote. I was debating gettnig them painted forrest green with the ring plainted black or just paint them solid black. I finally decided I am pretty sure these were original wheels and they had never been repainted so, since they were black, I'd go with black again. The guy gave me the option of flat, semi gloss or high gloss. The car is pretty rough and I will be painting it myself so I don't want the wheel to look too good. Oh yeah, I had forgotten about the getting the lug nuts painted.....so emailed the guy and asked about them...he said $1.50 for lug. Sounds like a deal to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 So let me share with you my momentary stupidity.......as I was stripping the lug nuts I got to wondering if the lugs that hold the spare tired on the back of the car are stamped with and L or an R. I went and looked and they are stamped with an R. I thought, that's dumb, what are you supposed to do it you have a flat on the left side of the car!? I almost posted this question when the light finally came on! When you change a tire, you generally put the same lugs back on that you took off! Duh!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 So let me share with you my momentary stupidity.......as I was stripping the lug nuts I got to wondering if the lugs that hold the spare tired on the back of the car are stamped with and L or an R. I went and looked and they are stamped with an R. I thought, that's dumb, what are you supposed to do it you have a flat on the left side of the car!? I almost posted this question when the light finally came on! When you change a tire, you generally put the same lugs back on that you took off! Duh!! Thanks for the chuckle....I have done similar things in the garage.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 What is a bigger problem then the rims causing death and destruction are the inner tubes. If you go back several years on this forum you will find some discussion about how poorly they are made now. Some exploded without even being mounted on the car with no weight on them. I just last week bought tubes from the "major supplier" . Even though they had 33X4 molded into them they were at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches too small in diameter. With a flap they would not stay inside the tire long enough to get the rim back on. I was lucky not to pinch one of them between the beads. And to add more problems the rubber stems were at least 3/4 inch shorter then my old tubes. So when I installed the rim on the wood wheel they didn't stick through far enough to air them so I had to buy extensions. Besides that they were about $35 each, almost the price of a tire. I'm told Michelin makes tubes, have not found a source yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 So let me share with you my momentary stupidity.......as I was stripping the lug nuts I got to wondering if the lugs that hold the spare tired on the back of the car are stamped with and L or an R. I went and looked and they are stamped with an R. I thought, that's dumb, what are you supposed to do it you have a flat on the left side of the car!? I almost posted this question when the light finally came on! When you change a tire, you generally put the same lugs back on that you took off! Duh!! I have those all the time. The kinder phrase would be "Senior Moment". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Just had another thought about your headlight bar. Is there simply bolts through the holes that the headlight bar is supposed to go in? If not, then your headlights will move all over the place. Also, forget the comment about earlier headlight mounts as they did had the holes also, with bolts in them. I'll bet you can pull out the bolts and insert headlight bar. It keeps the fenders from becoming floppy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Don't know if you guys have Les Schwab Tire dealers in your areas but here in Central Oregon they powder coat wheels (sent to Prineville OR). Bead blasted and coated for $25-$30.50 each in a number of colors. They also sub them out to a powder coat place if they don't have the color you want, I assume at a little more money. I have had them do dozens of wheels and am happy with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 Just had another thought about your headlight bar. Is there simply bolts through the holes that the headlight bar is supposed to go in? If not, then your headlights will move all over the place. Also, forget the comment about earlier headlight mounts as they did had the holes also, with bolts in them. I'll bet you can pull out the bolts and insert headlight bar. It keeps the fenders from becoming floppy. I will look but I'm pretty sure there are no holes. An you are right, the rod is structural to support the fenders. The driver's side fender has popped the two rivets that connect to the strut underneath. So obvilusly this car needed the support rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 With regard to the tire change, I didn't end up using the soapy water simply because it wasn't necessary. The talc smeared on the tire bead and wheel did the trick. As for the fender rivets, if you don't have the tools to do them properly Restoration Supply Co. sells threaded rivets. I purchased some 10--32 #6 truss heads, cut them to the length needed and they look perfect as replacements for those fender rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 That is awesome! I was wondering how I would fix that! Got a call into them already. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogillio Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 (edited) Just had another thought about your headlight bar. Is there simply bolts through the holes that the headlight bar is supposed to go in?.You nailed it brother!You'd think having two of the same model car I'd learn to go look at the other one!Any idea where I might find one? Meyers maybe?If not, I can probably have one made. Edited May 28, 2015 by Rogillio (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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