1967 Biscayne 4 door sedan Frame, Help please

[Guest Gungrav97]

I recently bought a 1967 Biscayne that had been restored previously, but had been sitting in a field since the restoration. When I finally got it home and on some stands to take a closer look underneath right under the driver door the frame is rotted pretty bad (where it had been touching the ground do to flat tires) to the point where one side of the transmission mount is about to break off. So I've been driving around different body shops trying to find a solution some say to swap the whole frame some just dont want to attempt it.

So i want to ask what type of frame would be a good substitute for the frame on it now? I really don't want to take the whole frame out since that section is the only bad part

So instead of swapping the frame I was thinking of finding a modern frame that is probably to bent to fix and cutting the section I need out but again I don't know what kind of frame will fit the 1967 4 door Biscayne.

Thanks everyone

[CarlLaFong]

The only frame that will fit, properly, is a 67, full size, Chevy frame. Anything else will be a Mickey Mouse repair at best. There are, certainly, other frames that will work since they were not changed significantly for several years. So, for instance, a 65-68 frame might fit

[Matt Harwood]

You're probably going to find it difficult to get a shop to make that kind of repair. The frame is the only thing that holds the car together, and splicing it causes all kinds of problems. If the frame is rotted, I suspect that they will also find rotted floors and rocker boxes, adding to the degree of difficulty and cost. In addition, I would assume most shops won't want to take the risk that if you're in an accident and the frame folds up and kills someone inside, they'll get blamed/sued. Sometimes the money just isn't green enough.

Replacing the entire frame itself is doable (provided you can find another one in good condition), but it's a massive job, not a weekend project, and there's a lot more to it than just removing the old one and putting in the new one. It would be the right way to fix it, but at that point, you have to ask yourself how much time and money do you want to spend on this particular car that will never be worth very much, even in good condition. If you love the car and it's your dream car, then go for it and call it a learning experience. You'll learn a lot about mechanics and your car, but it won't be cheap, fast, or easy. If you're motivated by passion for the hobby, then it'll work out OK and you won't mind spending the cash.

On the other hand, if this isn't your dream car and/or you don't have a lot of spare cash, it might be a situation where dumping the car, taking the financial hit, and buying a nicer specimen is ultimately the most economical choice. It stinks, but there's no easy solution here--they all involve losing money. The only question is when do you cut your losses: now or $5000 from now?

Good luck!

[Larry W]

Before you make any decisions, I would take a few photographs, and consult several sheet metal and/or metal fabrication shops for their opinion on how to repair.

[Guest Gungrav97]

Matt- I completely agree with you luckily I've only spent $750 on (what i think) a pretty solid car beside the frame rot and it would be a couple of years before I can get it fully restored because like you said I'm using it as a learner while I'm in school and I can get a lot of work done on it when that time comes. the car its self is ready to drive minus the brakes and a few touches to make the car workable. So I don't wanna give up on it quite yet. I just wish the previous owner had put better tires on it and the problem probably wouldn't have happened lol But this car caught my eye more because I have actually wanted a 67' Impala 4 door and the Biscayne is pretty similar so I jumped on it fast I know it wont be no Impala but to me its close enough.

Larry-I have some pictures on my phone which seems to scare them away a little more lol Ill try some metal fabrication shops next Thanks.

I like the challenge of bringing this car back on the road and making it into the car I know it can be. I have been calling salvage yards here in Iowa trying to track any kind of frame for it I was close on one but a few years off, he had over 30 acres of cars and the city came in and told him he cant have that much and made him down size to 3 acres I couldn't believe it!

But anyway thanks guys for the input if there is anymore advice you can give me about this or any other part of the restoration I should be mindful of go ahead, I'm a novice at this so anything will help and much appreciated

[28 Chrysler]

This car may be a good parts car for a 67 Impala or Bel Air.

Since this car has a good drive train you will not be losing money. Look for a roller that may cost you another $750 and start moving parts.

[rocketraider]

Look at it this way. An Impala is a nicer trimmed and more desirable car than the low-line Biscayne. The trouble finding a nice 4-door is that most people don't appreciate them and see them only as parts sources for a 2-door, which is a warped way of looking at an old car IMHO. A 60s GM 4-door hardtop is a stylish car, no matter what the 2-door contingent thinks.

That said- you may find a nice Impala or Caprice Sport Sedan (4-door hardtop) that will cost less and take less work in the long run than bringing back your Biscayne.

Don't hold me to this but I think any 65-70 full-size Chevy frame should work, and possibly a short wheelbase Pontiac like a Catalina. Again- don't hold me to that. If you can find someone who has a Hollander Interchange Manual covering those years, it will tell you what will work.

[62BillT]

Full Size Chevy Frames from '65 to '70 may be Interchange-able, but there are a few differences. If you find a non-'67 Frame, you need to check into it closer to see exactly what the difference is. If no one answers on here in time, check with the guys over at Chevytalk.com in the '67 to '70 Full Size Forum. I'm 62BillT over there as well. Bill

[Rusty_OToole]

This used to be a fairly common repair here in the rust belt. A welder would plate over the bad areas with sheet metal the same thickness as the frame (not as thick as you would expect). It would be obvious it had been repaired, but if done right is as strong as new.

of course, if you really want to do it right you will buy a used frame from a junk yard in Colorado or a rust free western state. I think at that point I would rather buy a better car.

It should not be hard to find a correct 1967 frame, they made about a million Chevs that year.

[John348]

I would not get involved! The problem is rather common on those years of full size Chevrolets. If you reapair the frame it will always be a car with a repaired frame. If the frame is rotted how good can the hidden sheetmetal be? Before you replace the frame you will have to "shore up" the body and repair the rot, make sure all of the mount platforms are solid and replace all of the cushions. Unless you have money to burn, it looks like way too much money for a car with minor return. Sounds like this car could take THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS before it is even on the road. True it is a hobby but, none of your fellow hobbiest are giving you the parts for free. While selling the car might not be in the plans now always keep in mind that every car gets sold at one time or another. Good parts car for another 67 with a good frame, start the search, good luck

Edited June 28, 2014 by Biscayne John (see edit history)

[62BillT]

In all fairness though, it wouldn't be a bad idea for us all to take a look at some pictures of his car.

As it very well could be worth saving....

In my opinion a '67 Biscayne has a certain level of appeal as they are much more rare than the Impala and Bel-Air.

Bill

[joe_padavano]

Lots of hand wringing and teeth gnashing in this thread. The reality is that the frame is just mild steel and cutting and welding is no big deal ASSUMING the welder knows what he/she is doing and properly maintains alignment of the frame during the welding. Heck, the frame was welded together from the factory. Cutting out rust and splicing is not a big deal if the welding is done properly. People often "plate over" rust areas. This is NOT the correct way to repair it. You want to cut out the rust back to solid metal and butt weld in new metal. The problem with plating over is that the discontinuity in thickness where the plate ends will eventually lead to stress cracking. If you must plate over an area, you must taper the ends of the patch to evenly distribute stresses. Again, this is not a big deal, but it must be done properly and many people do not.

[Guest Gary Hearn]

My parents bought a '66 Biscayne new, 230 tied to a 3 speed. As Plain Jane as they came, it was a treat when we moved up to a '70 Mercury Montego. I admire people who preserve the less desirable models.

[Larry W]

By now you must be the most confused person on this forum. I tend to agree with #9, 12, and 13. I agree that cutting back and butt welding would would be the most correct method of repair, ( I'll be doing this with my '64 Ford), but I've seen the "plate over" method outlast the vehicle here in the rust belt. Heck, I ounce did a "plate over" on an '85 Dodge plow truck with a completely severed frame rail, but instead of welding, used large diameter self tapping sheet metal screws (don't judge me), and it held until something else killed the truck.

Keep your eyes open for a replacement frame if you want, but until you find one, repair yours as best you can and enjoy your car. You didn't pay that much for it anyway. Plain Jane models are more rare at car shows than high end models, and I also enjoy seeing them. My'55 Ford is just a 6cyl. Customline.

Edited June 30, 2014 by Larry W
Typo (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Yes, don't overlook the fact that 1) he already bought the car 2) he only has $750 in it 3) as a 4 door Chev sedan, it will never be a hot collector car, or worth a lot of money.

I say, get it fixed and drive it. I don't see it being worth the money to replace the frame or have a 100 point restoration done on it. As long as it is strong and safe it doesn't have to be pretty.

By the way, a couple of years ago I saw a 1926 Buick hearse that had been built on a car chassis, stretched by cutting the frame with a hacksaw and bolting in 2 pieces of channel iron 3 or 4 feet long. The channel overlapped the frame and was bolted through in several places. This was the preferred method of stretching a frame because it was strong and safe and did not depend on the quality of welds nor did it create a stress point.

This frame had carried a very heavy hearse body for 80 years with no sign of sagging or cracking.

[Joe in Canada]

I have a rust free 1966 Biscayne 2 door post police car with the original 396 sitting in my barn for a long time...... some would call it a barn find we will say. The frame has no rust but a bad dent in it and I found a frame in Tulsa OK. for $200. 4 years ago. Change the frame and save yourself a lot of work with value added. As for my car I will probably never get to restoring it but the extra frame is good insurance.

[Pontiac59]

Frame swap is a ton of work. Plus you have to find one and ship it back.

It may be much easier to ship only the portion that needs replacement and use that. There are plenty of cars - a lot of them hot rods - running around out there with spliced frames or even entirely owner-built frames.

But I would examine the car throroughly for any other rot issues. GM of this era are known for it.

67-70 are more or less the same except bumper attachments. By this era, the frames were shared across makes with slight length changes, so a Pontiac, Buick or Olds frame will also likely be useable.