therios Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Can anyone tell me if the center section of the rear bumper from a '57 Buick wagon would interchange with the rear bumper center section on my '57 super?Guy on phone says No, but I look at pictures and it looks awfully similar.ThanksNo, it won't. The '57 wagons were built on Century/Special frames, which, as you discovered, are a little narrower than the Super/Roadmaster frames. Lots of valuable information is available on the Team Buick web site:http://www.teambuick.com/reference/years/57.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Update Time!As you will recall, setting the car down on the cut front springs revealed TOO MUCH LOW! So I picked up a set of new front springs from Rock Auto for about $60. I didn't cut the new ones (tempting though), I just Installed them, but car is still on jack stands. Below shows the cut (original) spring and the new one from Rock Auto.I got an Optima Red Top battery for essentially free, so I made it work even though it was a side-post style.My rear bumper issue (see above) has forced me to use the original rusty center section. shown below.After a little work with a wire wheel and some Valspar "chrome" spray paint, it looks like this:Good Enough as a temporary fix until I can locate a replacement center section or save up enough $ to get it rechromed.Also got the new rear shocks on and the brake system is completely bled out and ready to go. We need an exhaust now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Nice Work !!!I went several years with silver painted bumpers before having them rechromed.replating is a big budget item for sure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Who can tell me about fluids? I need to refresh everything. I have engine oil handled and I just filled up with standard anti-freeze coolant 50/50 mix (green stuff). Brake fluid is all taken care of as well.What power steering fluid should I use? Transmission fluid (Dynaflow)? driveline/differential ('57 enclosed driveline)?Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 For Transmission and Power steering, use; Dexron III or IV or any of the subsequent Dexron ATFFor the rear axle, use ;Synchromesh Transmission and Rear Axle - Check level at filler plug. Maintain level using SAE 90 Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant (U.S. Army Spec. 2-105B) for temperatures not lower than 10 degrees F below zero. In temperatures continuously below -10 degrees F, use SAE 80. Seasonal or periodic draining and flushing is not required. When complete refilling is required, however, use above lubricant in transmission but use only Factory Hypoid Lubricant in rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Who can tell me about fluids? I need to refresh everything. I have engine oil handled and I just filled up with standard anti-freeze coolant 50/50 mix (green stuff). Brake fluid is all taken care of as well.What power steering fluid should I use? Transmission fluid (Dynaflow)? driveline/differential ('57 enclosed driveline)?Thanks!!Do you have a chassis manual to help you out? I have an ugly (missing cover) but functional one I'll ship to you for $8. A must have for somebody owning and working on their own old Buick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therios Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Compression,By all means, you should get a hard copy of the chassis manual. Until you get one, though, you can access the information online at the following link:http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/57_chassis/ I think this site also offers you the option to download a pdf file of the entire manual for $10.Ike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I do have an original hard copy chassis manual book and it has been very helpful. However, when I get to reading about fluids, they seem to reference a lot of old specs and names that are not valid for today's parts-store products. I also wanted to get the inside scoop from current owners on what modern fluids work best.Thanks for the help everyone!Compression,By all means, you should get a hard copy of the chassis manual. Until you get one, though, you can access the information online at the following link:http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/57_chassis/ I think this site also offers you the option to download a pdf file of the entire manual for $10.Ike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Can anyone enlighten me on how to convert to manual choke? (I have my reasons)..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956century Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Dorman has a cheap kit, search for part numbers 55101 and 55104 (not sure what the difference is). I used something similar (if not the same) on my '56 and mounted the control cable under the left air vent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 perfect. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Yup. Those kits were common back in the day. I converted my share. Pretty straight forward. Dandy Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Got the manual choke conversion installed. Autozone down the street had it in stock for $9. Perfect!Does anyone know what Ohm range the factory gas gauge wants to see from the sender? I installed a Classic Instruments sender that is 0-30 Ohm and want to make sure it will work. And how in the heck do you get the dash/instrument cluster out!!??You guys have helped out a lot and I am grateful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Any help here fellas?Thanks!Got the manual choke conversion installed. Autozone down the street had it in stock for $9. Perfect!Does anyone know what Ohm range the factory gas gauge wants to see from the sender? I installed a Classic Instruments sender that is 0-30 Ohm and want to make sure it will work. And how in the heck do you get the dash/instrument cluster out!!??You guys have helped out a lot and I am grateful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 I'm not sure about the sender...So, where are you at with the cluster removal? The top of the dash pad has to come off to get to it. 57 differs from 58 slightly, so I can't tell you bolt-for-bolt how to remove it. It is not easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 (edited) To remove the instrument cluster, you need to remove the top panel.1. remove all the lower windshield garnish moldings 2. there are 4(?) fasteners holding the top panel down along the front. Remove those.3. There might be 2 or 3 Phillips head screws on the underside of the panel (corners / center?) Remove those.4. The panel is also held in by the 4 chrome ribs on the dashboard, but it should slide out at this point with a little work. Be careful not to tear the vinyl covering as you remove it from the IP structure. 5. You should now have access to the instrument cluster and the associated ganglion of wiring attached to it. 6. Take a picture with your digital camera of the back of the cluster so you remember where all the wires go later on. Take a few pictures, they are cheap, and will help in the re-installation!!7. Remove all the wires. Tag them to identify where they will go back on when you re-install the cluster. 8. Remove the speedo cable from the left side of the cluster.9. Remove the trip odometer cable by disconnecting it from under the dash by the ignition key area. You will have to remove the black knob, and a nut holding it to the dash. 10. Remove the speed sensor cable right above the speedometer cable on the left side of cluster. 11. Remove the temp and oil pressure gauges. 2 screws hold them in the cluster. Otherwise you have to remove the sensors from the engine block and pull the sensor tubing through the firewall when you remove the cluster. 12. Push / move the temp and oil instruments away from the cluster if you did not remove the tubes from the block. 13. There are 4 fasteners holding the cluster to the dash structure. Remove those. 14. Push all the wires, cables and stuff out of the way.15. Remove the clusterThere you have it. How to get the instrument cluster out of your 57 Buick. Hope this helps. Edited February 22, 2015 by 1957buickjim missed step on oil / temp gauge removal (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Is the temp gauge manual on the 57, or is it electrical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Is the temp gauge manual on the 57, or is it electrical?Easy enough to figure out. Is it a mercury tube with a bulb in the block, or head. Or does it have a plastic covered copper wire running to it. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 On a 57 both oil and temp gauges are mechanical with bulb that goes into the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 GREAT!!! Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 SHE DRIVES!Yes, finally got to take it on it's maiden voyage and everything went fairly well. Brakes stopped the car, power steering worked great, and the transmission seemed to be functioning at an acceptable level. I only took it on a short trip to the near by exhaust shop to get a system built (she was running with open manifolds).When I get it back, it will be much more drivable and I will really be able to assess how everything is working.But, so far so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfa Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Hey that is great news. I bet you made a load of noise driving with open manifolds.Looking forward to the photographs!!Adam.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Cool! :cool: Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Sooooo........Exhaust shop said they see a crack in the engine block, but no coolant is leaking out.....Probably from water freezing in there while it has been sitting the past 30 years.When i drove it to the exhaust shop, it got up to operating temp and was not leaking, so maybe the crack is rust-sealed....ha ha ha ha... I think I am going to buy a few cans or radiator stop-leak.Any other suggestions/guidance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) Cast Iron StitchingI've not tried it, but I've heard of good resultshttp://www.locknstitch.com/ <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Pq0wfU4ZaKk?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>http://youtu.be/Pq0wfU4ZaKk Edited March 24, 2015 by bhambulldog embed video (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Holy cow, looks labor intensive, but effective.I guess I need to see this crack for myself and see if it actually starts to leak. If not leak, then I will not worry about it.Cast Iron StitchingI've not tried it, but I've heard of good resultshttp://www.locknstitch.com/ http://youtu.be/Pq0wfU4ZaKk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Holy cow, looks labor intensive, but effective.I guess I need to see this crack for myself and see if it actually starts to leak. If not leak, then I will not worry about it.Keep an eye on it for sure. If it just in the water jacket, and not near the crank, cam or head, it might be alright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfa Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 stitched repairs can be very effective. If you need to go down that route, i can recommend it. But check this crack out yourself first. It may be nothing, especially if nothing leaks. If it were cracked into the water jacket, antifreeze would definitely find the leak and escape from there.Adam.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I have a 1907, or 08 6HP Kenwood Engine in the shed that was stitched up about 100 years ago give or take. It is still holding. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) OK. I got the car back. Exhaust looks great for a $400 job. No complaints, it gets the job done.When I got back home, I parked the car and let it cool. Checked back a few hours later and there is a small puddle of water under it. WATER IS LEAKING FROM THE BLOCK.The crack is located mostly behind the starter. I would have to take out the starter to get a really good look, but I estimate it is 5 to 6 inches long. It is definitely leaking at a rate that I cannot ignore.SOooooooo..... What do you guys recommend I do? Put in a different Nailhead? Some sort of coolant additive? JB weld? Pull the engine and have a machine shop stitch it? Stitch it myself? Sell the car?All input is welcome. Keep in mind I am on a time and $ budget and I am not building a concourse car.Thank you!UPDATE: Friend is locating a good core to rebuild for me. Hopefully he finds something. Edited March 28, 2015 by COMPRESSION (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Try a metallic block sealer first such as K&W Block Seal. This is about the only 'miracle in can' product that worked for me in the past.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 OK. I got the car back. Exhaust looks great for a $400 job. No complaints, it gets the job done.When I got back home, I parked the car and let it cool. Checked back a few hours later and there is a small puddle of water under it. WATER IS LEAKING FROM THE BLOCK.The crack is located mostly behind the starter. I would have to take out the starter to get a really good look, but I estimate it is 5 to 6 inches long. It is definitely leaking at a rate that I cannot ignore.SOooooooo..... What do you guys recommend I do? Put in a different Nailhead? Yes , if stitching is more $Some sort of coolant additive? No. JB weld?No.Pull the engine and have a machine shop stitch it? Stitch it myself? Yes, if its less $ than a diffrent nailheadSell the car?Yes, If you can't or won't afford the stitching or replacement motorAll input is welcome. Keep in mind I am on a time and $ budget and I am not building a concourse car.Thank you!UPDATE: Friend is locating a good core to rebuild for me. Hopefully he finds something.this is Good news ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 If you are going to replace the engine, what will be hurt by TRYING some kind of coolant sealer? I have used Bars Leak. Worked for a long time. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I agree with First Born. A lot of older tractor, and industrial engines, get a can of bars leaks right after a rebuild just for insurance. Especially ones with wet sleeves. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Just to be sure, you have actually seen this crack leak? Are you certain it is not the core plug leaking? It would be near impossible to heat the engine and then remove the starter to check the leak. But can you get a leak tester and then pressurize the cold engine and visually spot the source of the leak with the starter out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 If you are going to replace the engine, what will be hurt by TRYING some kind of coolant sealer? I have used Bars Leak. Worked for a long time. BenI agree with First Born. A lot of older tractor, and industrial engines, get a can of bars leaks right after a rebuild just for insurance. Especially ones with wet sleeves. Dandy Dave!Good pointsTry a metallic block sealer first such as K&W Block Seal. This is about the only 'miracle in can' product that worked for me in the past.WillieI didn't know about that one. I would defer to Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 OK Gents, decided to try Willie's advice and us the KW stuff. I mean, what do I have to lose besides $9?Spent the better part of yesterday filling/flushing/draining the coolant system as instructed on the KW can. I am glad I did this because I got a lot of rust out of the system that I guess I missed when I ran a garden hose through it last time. I must have flushed it more than 10 times. Followed all the instructions on the can to a Tee, and now the car is "drying", which is basically sitting with the cooling system drained and open for 24 hours, this is the last step of the process. Then I am supposed to refill and see how it works.Will let you know if it really is a miracle in a can...By the way, I can see part of the crack, maybe 1.5 inches, but majority is behind the starter. Its a horizontal crack. Will keep my ear to the ground for another engine as well. Crossing my fingers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I also have used KW in the past. It has been a bunch of years and I cannot even remember what I put it in but I'm sure it worked? Be carful. A little Crack can get you in a lot of trouble. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I also have used KW in the past. It has been a bunch of years and I cannot even remember what I put it in but I'm sure it worked? Be carful. A little Crack can get you in a lot of trouble. Dandy Dave! A little crack+++++++. LOL. You got that right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPRESSION Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 OK Gents.Seems that the KW stuff fixed the leak! Well, for now anyway. I have done 3 full-temperature 20-minute drives on it since the repair and it has not leaked a drop of water.This is very good news, however I am not naive, I am still going to continue to track down an engine to rebuild.And, to make sure my interest is kept, the car is showing signs of a leaking rear main. Oh Joy.Any tips on how to improve cold-starting? I am using a manual choke, but still have to crank it for quite a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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