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Newbie with a 1957 Buick Super


Guest COMPRESSION

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Guest COMPRESSION

Here are a few pictures of it sitting on its wheels for the first time. The front springs were cut so she sits fairly low in the front (perfect!), but I have not got to the rear springs yet, so that is still stock height.

The intent was to set it on the wheel dollies (shown) so I could reposition it in the garage. But even on the dollies, the tank would not move...she is anchored.

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Did you corner balance all four edges with scales before you cut the springs in order to maintain proper suspension dynamics? If not how did you determine how much of the coil spring to cut? The front is way heavier then the rear and cutting the rears now the same will leave a car that is a squirrel to drive or are we just concerned with the superficial such as looks?

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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Hi Compression. I am so glad that you are enjoying getting the 57 sorted. But do you really need front discs? I would ask myself, am I really going to drive this 60 year old car, with 60 year old roadholding, so hard that I encounter brake fade?

I owned a 1960 Electra fro 15 years and the brakes, once rebuilt, were excellent. They used to stop the rollers on the annual inspection!

In my very humble opinion, it would be quicker, cheaper, easier and less contentious to restore the original set up. Just my opinion and it is your car.....no offence intended.

Adam..

… OH Yes to this, plus you can't tailgate with a 4,500 lb car even with disks like you can with a 1,900 ricer - so what's the point ?

Real Nice Neat n Clean install on the disk job however :)'

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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Guest COMPRESSION

The springs were cut based on a sound scientific theory known as SWAG.

Turns out the amount I cut was TOO MUCH! She is sitting hard on the bump stops in the front and the tie-rods are at severe angles which means scary bump-steer.

You can see in the pic below that the lower control arm is about to hit the frame. The bump stop is actually removed in this picture:

fuq43a.jpg

So back to regular height coils I go. But it was a fun experiment! :)I have a few good coil winders I know, or I can get a set of springs from Fusik or CARS or Kanter or whoever....

Are you guys still hung up on the front disc conversion? We are WAY past that now. Keep up!

Edited by COMPRESSION (see edit history)
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Guest COMPRESSION

Here are a few more pics to entertain you guys:

1192bmr.jpg

Mocking up radiator hoses for the new radiator.

20poa2t.jpg

Rebuilt water pump installed and waiting for me to buy new bolts (5/16 fine thread) to mount the pulley.

503254.jpg

Another picture showing what too low looks like. Now you know.

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…. "Are you guys still hung up on the front disc conversion? We are WAY past that now. Keep up! …

I think the point made by us & others here was " Why " not why not on a procedure of effort yielding minimal results and perceived benefits. Also, apparently am I missing something regarding the scientific methodology applied by the alleged SWAG method, since one of the main basic postulations of Scientific Methodology is that results obtained must demonstrate repeatable and dependable results. But do carry on it is after all very entertaining.

Regarding nuts on the water pump. That's a great idea and may use that utilizing stainless studs and nuts. If not that ambitious, I suppose one could just use anti-sieze compound on the stock bolt threads before reinstalling or better yet stainless bolts with anti-sieze on the threads to prevent galling galvanizations of the threads :')

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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I posted a comment some time ago, saying that I would have rebuilt the standard brakes were it me. However, Compression, it is your car. Do it the way you want and ignore the detractors. It is meant to be an enjoyable and inclusive hobby isn`t it?

Adam..

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Guest COMPRESSION
…. "Are you guys still hung up on the front disc conversion? We are WAY past that now. Keep up! …

I think the point made by us & others here was " Why " not why not on a procedure of effort yielding minimal results and perceived benefits. Also, apparently am I missing something regarding the scientific methodology applied by the alleged SWAG method, since one of the main basic postulations of Scientific Methodology is that results obtained must demonstrate repeatable and dependable results. But do carry on it is after all very entertaining.

Regarding nuts on the water pump. That's a great idea and may use that utilizing stainless studs and nuts. If not that ambitious, I suppose one could just use anti-sieze compound on the stock bolt threads before reinstalling or better yet stainless bolts with anti-sieze on the threads to prevent galling galvanizations of the threads :')

Man this guy has no sense of humor...... (reference SWAG comment).

I am not interested in justifying any of the things I do to MY CAR. The choices I make are based on A LOT of factors direct and indirect, many of which you may or may not understand and I am not going to waste my time bringing light to all factors of every decision. I don't have time for that.

So I will carry on and keep posting pictures and asking questions (which I barely have time for.... actually I don't...) But I will not enter conversations to justify anything I did or will do. So save those comments for your personal life conversations with your other car-guy pal. You two can discuss and scoff over my poor decisions over your coffee on Wednesday mornings. I don't mind that.

But if I may say one thing about the disc brake conversion. It was not expensive, it was not difficult, and I was born (genetics?) with a bad impression of drum brakes. In general, they bug me. On any car. I have a long history of drum to disc conversions. I did not do it expecting massive improvements in stopping distance. Ok, that's all from me on this topic.

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…. Hey we hear ya, so your going for the disk brakes. Cool and by all means indulge in any conceptions or notions you may want to believe in on any part of your car and apply them. After all it's your car and apparently you know best as well as the right things to do and how to do them right? So carry on and have fun - that's the main thing. Oh and this guy has a great sense of humor and getting a hell of a kick out of this whole thread with high entertainment value to boot but then again what do we know :')

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Guest COMPRESSION
…. Hey we hear ya, so your going for the disk brakes. Cool and by all means indulge in any conceptions or notions you may want to believe in on any part of your car and apply them. After all it's your car and apparently you know best as well as the right things to do and how to do them right? So carry on and have fun - that's the main thing. Oh and this guy has a great sense of humor and getting a hell of a kick out of this whole thread with high entertainment value to boot but then again what do we know :')

Well that is good to hear. I will try to be as entertaining as possible!

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I am not interested in justifying any of the things I do to MY CAR. The choices I make are based on A LOT of factors direct and indirect, many of which you may or may not understand and I am not going to waste my time bringing light to all factors of every decision. I don't have time for that.

So I will carry on and keep posting pictures and asking questions (which I barely have time for.... actually I don't...) But I will not enter conversations to justify anything I did or will do. So save those comments for your personal life conversations with your other car-guy pal. You two can discuss and scoff over my poor decisions over your coffee on Wednesday mornings. I don't mind that.

Amen.

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Oh yeah. Buy some studs (then use nuts) for the water pump. You'll be happy that you did.

This should have said water pump pulley.

This way you don't have to line up the holes with the pulley, spacer and fan blade.

It's not hard to do with the radiator and shroud out of the car, but I hate those bolts when bent over the radiator.

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Oh yeah. Buy some studs (then use nuts) for the water pump. You'll be happy that you did.
This should have said water pump pulley.

This way you don't have to line up the holes with the pulley, spacer and fan blade.

It's not hard to do with the radiator and shroud out of the car, but I hate those bolts when bent over the radiator.

I did the water pump last week Mike and I totally agree with you !!!! If only I had read this then I would have changed to your cool idea :mad:

Matt

That is a great tip !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Compression

I have enjoyed looking at the pics of your new disc brake set up. I leads me to ask, will you be fitting a new servo, or can you get away with using the original servo and mastercylinder? I suspect that the front calipers may require a greater displacement of fluid, leading to a long pedal, or do they?

Also, do you need to fit a brake apportioning valve to deliver reduced pressure to the rear drums, when using discs at the front?

Adam..

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Guest COMPRESSION

Yes, it will be getting a completely different master cylinder, booster and a disc/drum proportioning valve.Here are the Summit Racing part numbers of the items I will be using:Master: RSD DBMC09 Booster: RPB8531Valve: PV71These items are on the way to me now, I will use the holiday break to figure out how to get it all mounted up.

Hi CompressionI have enjoyed looking at the pics of your new disc brake set up. I leads me to ask, will you be fitting a new servo, or can you get away with using the original servo and mastercylinder? I suspect that the front calipers may require a greater displacement of fluid, leading to a long pedal, or do they?Also, do you need to fit a brake apportioning valve to deliver reduced pressure to the rear drums, when using discs at the front?Adam..
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Guest COMPRESSION

Got the cooling package completed. Radiator is installed, hoses are done. Fan relay is wired up. Rebuilt water pump is installed with new gasket and new bolts. New thermostat. Flushed the heater core. She is ready for coolant!

I am now installing a transmission cooler I pulled off of a Ford minivan.

2ldakvn.jpg

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Here are a few more pics to entertain you guys:

1192bmr.jpg

Mocking up radiator hoses for the new radiator.

20poa2t.jpg

Rebuilt water pump installed and waiting for me to buy new bolts (5/16 fine thread) to mount the pulley.

503254.jpg

Another picture showing what too low looks like. Now you know.

Driving a slammed 57 Super is like being married: Nice and cool, until you bang something you were not supposed to..

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Guest COMPRESSION
Driving a slammed 57 Super is like being married: Nice and cool, until you bang something you were not supposed to..

HA HA HAA HAAA HAAA!:D

I am replacing the front springs (which I cut too short)...so extra banging will be less likely.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest COMPRESSION

Does anyone have a replacement for this switch I can buy? It is mounted on the steering column and the switch slides back and forth with the gear selector. Send me a PM if you can help me out! Thanks

2m3mpnq.jpg

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Guest COMPRESSION

Genius! Knowing the name of the part sure does help for Ebay searching. I found several options and will get a new one coming. thanks!!!

Check ebay - neutral safety switch
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Guest COMPRESSION

Update: Braking system is 97% done! Master cylinder is mounted up and pushrod is all sorted.

As I am sure many of you know (and I quickly learned) the master cylinder is mounted to this flimsy fresh air duct, and not directly to the firewall. Then there is a "snout" on the master cylinder that pass through the duct and through the firewall and there is a large nut on the end of the snout. Obviously, I could not just mount the master to the duct, because it would move and flex under pedal pressure. So I had to replicate the function of the snout.

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Step one was to mount the booster to the duct, you can see the bolt pattern was slightly smaller, this was probably the easiest step.

2mzgtqo.jpg

Then I fabricated a wonky looking bracket to replicate the function of the snout. And I cut the end threaded portion of the snout off of the old master and reused it here.

zilw14.jpg

I fixtured it during welding to make sure the snout was straight and at the correct depth.

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With the air duct bolted back on and the snout inserted through the firewall and the large nut installed, I put on the master cylinder and checked clearance...plenty!

1zvtn4i.jpg

here is a picture with the combo valve plumbed to the master.

35iw237.jpg

All mounted up!

I had weld a 1.5" long coupling nut to a 3.5" long bolt to extend the push rod all the way to reach the actuator on the buick pedal assembly as well, no pictures on that. But it worked very well.

I just have bend up the last 12 inches of hard lines to the combo valve and we will be ready to bleed! yee ha!

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Looks good! Pretty good idea with the "snout" adapter bracket. Looks like a pretty tight fit by the electrical components, though..access to the voltage regulator wiring might be a bit tricky. Those thinks have a tendency to go at the most in opportune times..don't ask me how I know...;)

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Guest COMPRESSION

Brakes are bled and all seems well, wont know for sure until I test drive it in a month or so.

I was fitting the rear bumper to the car (the original one was too rusty, so I used a spare that came with the car). It seems the spare is about 2" too narrow, but otherwise looks identical.

Can anyone tell me what year/model/trim this spare bumper came from?

Upon closer inspection, I found that the spare bumper's mounting brackets were different too.

I took the end caps off of the center of the bumper and I will be able to transfer the nice end caps to the rusty old (Original) bumper center section. I guess I have to get that old center rechromed.

Picture below shows the two center sections.

2rcogb8.jpg

Anyway, I am now left with a fairly nice center section that is too short for me. So I guess I will sell it, but would like to know if anyone knows what models it will go on?

25iy7io.jpg

2vbs8yu.jpg

2uj2ush.jpg

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Guest COMPRESSION

Well, that explains it.....

Sounds like I am need of a Super center section in good shape, or a trip to the chrome shop.

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Well, that explains it.....

Sounds like I am need of a Super center section in good shape, or a trip to the chrome shop.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

But, I think a Roadmaster's rear bumper would be the same as Super's (Iknow it's true for '55)

Perhaps widen your search a bit...

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest COMPRESSION

Can anyone tell me if the center section of the rear bumper from a '57 Buick wagon would interchange with the rear bumper center section on my '57 super?

Guy on phone says No, but I look at pictures and it looks awfully similar.

Thanks

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