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Newbie with a 1957 Buick Super


Guest COMPRESSION

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Can anyone tell me if the center section of the rear bumper from a '57 Buick wagon would interchange with the rear bumper center section on my '57 super?

Guy on phone says No, but I look at pictures and it looks awfully similar.

Thanks

No, it won't. The '57 wagons were built on Century/Special frames, which, as you discovered, are a little narrower than the Super/Roadmaster frames.

Lots of valuable information is available on the Team Buick web site:

http://www.teambuick.com/reference/years/57.php

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Guest COMPRESSION

Update Time!

As you will recall, setting the car down on the cut front springs revealed TOO MUCH LOW! So I picked up a set of new front springs from Rock Auto for about $60. I didn't cut the new ones (tempting though), I just Installed them, but car is still on jack stands. Below shows the cut (original) spring and the new one from Rock Auto.

b89ric.jpg

I got an Optima Red Top battery for essentially free, so I made it work even though it was a side-post style.

10sdutt.jpg

My rear bumper issue (see above) has forced me to use the original rusty center section. shown below.

142803a.jpg

After a little work with a wire wheel and some Valspar "chrome" spray paint, it looks like this:

jikf81.jpg

Good Enough as a temporary fix until I can locate a replacement center section or save up enough $ to get it rechromed.

Also got the new rear shocks on and the brake system is completely bled out and ready to go. We need an exhaust now!

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Guest COMPRESSION

Who can tell me about fluids? I need to refresh everything.

I have engine oil handled and I just filled up with standard anti-freeze coolant 50/50 mix (green stuff). Brake fluid is all taken care of as well.

What power steering fluid should I use?

Transmission fluid (Dynaflow)?

driveline/differential ('57 enclosed driveline)?

Thanks!!

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For Transmission and Power steering, use; Dexron III or IV or any of the subsequent Dexron ATF

For the rear axle, use ;

Synchromesh Transmission and Rear Axle - Check level at filler plug. Maintain level using SAE 90 Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant (U.S. Army Spec. 2-105B) for temperatures not lower than 10 degrees F below zero. In temperatures continuously below -10 degrees F, use SAE 80. Seasonal or periodic draining and flushing is not required. When complete refilling is required, however, use above lubricant in transmission but use only Factory Hypoid Lubricant in rear axle.
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Who can tell me about fluids? I need to refresh everything.

I have engine oil handled and I just filled up with standard anti-freeze coolant 50/50 mix (green stuff). Brake fluid is all taken care of as well.

What power steering fluid should I use?

Transmission fluid (Dynaflow)?

driveline/differential ('57 enclosed driveline)?

Thanks!!

Do you have a chassis manual to help you out? I have an ugly (missing cover) but functional one I'll ship to you for $8. A must have for somebody owning and working on their own old Buick!

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Guest COMPRESSION

I do have an original hard copy chassis manual book and it has been very helpful. However, when I get to reading about fluids, they seem to reference a lot of old specs and names that are not valid for today's parts-store products. I also wanted to get the inside scoop from current owners on what modern fluids work best.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Compression,

By all means, you should get a hard copy of the chassis manual. Until you get one, though, you can access the information online at the following link:

http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/57_chassis/

I think this site also offers you the option to download a pdf file of the entire manual for $10.

Ike

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest COMPRESSION

Got the manual choke conversion installed. Autozone down the street had it in stock for $9. Perfect!

Does anyone know what Ohm range the factory gas gauge wants to see from the sender?

I installed a Classic Instruments sender that is 0-30 Ohm and want to make sure it will work.

And how in the heck do you get the dash/instrument cluster out!!??

You guys have helped out a lot and I am grateful!

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Guest COMPRESSION

Any help here fellas?

Thanks!

Got the manual choke conversion installed. Autozone down the street had it in stock for $9. Perfect!

Does anyone know what Ohm range the factory gas gauge wants to see from the sender?

I installed a Classic Instruments sender that is 0-30 Ohm and want to make sure it will work.

And how in the heck do you get the dash/instrument cluster out!!??

You guys have helped out a lot and I am grateful!

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To remove the instrument cluster, you need to remove the top panel.

1. remove all the lower windshield garnish moldings

2. there are 4(?) fasteners holding the top panel down along the front. Remove those.

3. There might be 2 or 3 Phillips head screws on the underside of the panel (corners / center?) Remove those.

4. The panel is also held in by the 4 chrome ribs on the dashboard, but it should slide out at this point with a little work. Be careful not to tear the vinyl covering as you remove it from the IP structure.

5. You should now have access to the instrument cluster and the associated ganglion of wiring attached to it.

6. Take a picture with your digital camera of the back of the cluster so you remember where all the wires go later on. Take a few pictures, they are cheap, and will help in the re-installation!!

7. Remove all the wires. Tag them to identify where they will go back on when you re-install the cluster.

8. Remove the speedo cable from the left side of the cluster.

9. Remove the trip odometer cable by disconnecting it from under the dash by the ignition key area. You will have to remove the black knob, and a nut holding it to the dash.

10. Remove the speed sensor cable right above the speedometer cable on the left side of cluster.

11. Remove the temp and oil pressure gauges. 2 screws hold them in the cluster. Otherwise you have to remove the sensors from the engine block and pull the sensor tubing through the firewall when you remove the cluster.

12. Push / move the temp and oil instruments away from the cluster if you did not remove the tubes from the block.

13. There are 4 fasteners holding the cluster to the dash structure. Remove those.

14. Push all the wires, cables and stuff out of the way.

15. Remove the cluster

There you have it. How to get the instrument cluster out of your 57 Buick. Hope this helps.

Edited by 1957buickjim
missed step on oil / temp gauge removal (see edit history)
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Is the temp gauge manual on the 57, or is it electrical?

Easy enough to figure out. Is it a mercury tube with a bulb in the block, or head. Or does it have a plastic covered copper wire running to it. Dandy Dave!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest COMPRESSION

SHE DRIVES!

Yes, finally got to take it on it's maiden voyage and everything went fairly well. Brakes stopped the car, power steering worked great, and the transmission seemed to be functioning at an acceptable level. I only took it on a short trip to the near by exhaust shop to get a system built (she was running with open manifolds).

When I get it back, it will be much more drivable and I will really be able to assess how everything is working.

But, so far so good!

2gvq03p.jpg

2ywfz4i.jpg

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Guest COMPRESSION

Sooooo........

Exhaust shop said they see a crack in the engine block, but no coolant is leaking out.....Probably from water freezing in there while it has been sitting the past 30 years.

When i drove it to the exhaust shop, it got up to operating temp and was not leaking, so maybe the crack is rust-sealed....ha ha ha ha... I think I am going to buy a few cans or radiator stop-leak.

Any other suggestions/guidance?

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Holy cow, looks labor intensive, but effective.

I guess I need to see this crack for myself and see if it actually starts to leak. If not leak, then I will not worry about it.

Keep an eye on it for sure. If it just in the water jacket, and not near the crank, cam or head, it might be alright

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stitched repairs can be very effective. If you need to go down that route, i can recommend it. But check this crack out yourself first. It may be nothing, especially if nothing leaks. If it were cracked into the water jacket, antifreeze would definitely find the leak and escape from there.

Adam..

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Guest COMPRESSION

OK. I got the car back. Exhaust looks great for a $400 job. No complaints, it gets the job done.

When I got back home, I parked the car and let it cool. Checked back a few hours later and there is a small puddle of water under it. WATER IS LEAKING FROM THE BLOCK.

The crack is located mostly behind the starter. I would have to take out the starter to get a really good look, but I estimate it is 5 to 6 inches long. It is definitely leaking at a rate that I cannot ignore.

SOooooooo..... What do you guys recommend I do? Put in a different Nailhead? Some sort of coolant additive? JB weld?:D Pull the engine and have a machine shop stitch it? Stitch it myself? Sell the car?

All input is welcome. Keep in mind I am on a time and $ budget and I am not building a concourse car.

Thank you!

UPDATE: Friend is locating a good core to rebuild for me. Hopefully he finds something.

Edited by COMPRESSION (see edit history)
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OK. I got the car back. Exhaust looks great for a $400 job. No complaints, it gets the job done.

When I got back home, I parked the car and let it cool. Checked back a few hours later and there is a small puddle of water under it. WATER IS LEAKING FROM THE BLOCK.

The crack is located mostly behind the starter. I would have to take out the starter to get a really good look, but I estimate it is 5 to 6 inches long. It is definitely leaking at a rate that I cannot ignore.

SOooooooo..... What do you guys recommend I do?

Put in a different Nailhead?

Yes , if stitching is more $

Some sort of coolant additive?

No.

JB weld?:D

No.

Pull the engine and have a machine shop stitch it? Stitch it myself?

Yes, if its less $ than a diffrent nailhead

Sell the car?

Yes, If you can't or won't afford the stitching or replacement motor

All input is welcome. Keep in mind I am on a time and $ budget and I am not building a concourse car.

Thank you!

UPDATE: Friend is locating a good core to rebuild for me. Hopefully he finds something.

this is Good news !

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I agree with First Born. A lot of older tractor, and industrial engines, get a can of bars leaks right after a rebuild just for insurance. Especially ones with wet sleeves. Dandy Dave!

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Just to be sure, you have actually seen this crack leak? Are you certain it is not the core plug leaking? It would be near impossible to heat the engine and then remove the starter to check the leak. But can you get a leak tester and then pressurize the cold engine and visually spot the source of the leak with the starter out?

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If you are going to replace the engine, what will be hurt by TRYING some kind of coolant sealer? I have used Bars Leak. Worked for a long time.

Ben

I agree with First Born. A lot of older tractor, and industrial engines, get a can of bars leaks right after a rebuild just for insurance. Especially ones with wet sleeves. Dandy Dave!

Good points

Try a metallic block sealer first such as K&W Block Seal. This is about the only 'miracle in can' product that worked for me in the past.

Willie

I didn't know about that one. I would defer to Willie

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Guest COMPRESSION

OK Gents, decided to try Willie's advice and us the KW stuff. I mean, what do I have to lose besides $9?

Spent the better part of yesterday filling/flushing/draining the coolant system as instructed on the KW can. I am glad I did this because I got a lot of rust out of the system that I guess I missed when I ran a garden hose through it last time. I must have flushed it more than 10 times.

Followed all the instructions on the can to a Tee, and now the car is "drying", which is basically sitting with the cooling system drained and open for 24 hours, this is the last step of the process. Then I am supposed to refill and see how it works.

Will let you know if it really is a miracle in a can...

By the way, I can see part of the crack, maybe 1.5 inches, but majority is behind the starter. Its a horizontal crack.

Will keep my ear to the ground for another engine as well.

Crossing my fingers!

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I also have used KW in the past. It has been a bunch of years and I cannot even remember what I put it in but I'm sure it worked? Be carful. A little Crack can get you in a lot of trouble. :P Dandy Dave!

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Guest COMPRESSION

OK Gents.

Seems that the KW stuff fixed the leak! Well, for now anyway. I have done 3 full-temperature 20-minute drives on it since the repair and it has not leaked a drop of water.

This is very good news, however I am not naive, I am still going to continue to track down an engine to rebuild.

And, to make sure my interest is kept, the car is showing signs of a leaking rear main. Oh Joy.

Any tips on how to improve cold-starting? I am using a manual choke, but still have to crank it for quite a while.

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