edhd58

1942 Ford Fordor Revival

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Funny you mention color. According to all the literature it should be blue. BUT, early pictures show that it was green when it was in the car, so I am going back green. I kinda wonder if it wasn't an early production car and they were using up left over '41 parts. My machine shop guy said he learned several things about this motor, and he hopes the next 6 flathead he does is a late model -- parts are easier to find.

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"I believe the 1942 6 cyl was blue. " Yes ILIKECARS53, the correct color according to all the books is blue on the motor in '42. Mine was green when I pulled it, and just because it was that color to start with I am leaning towards re-painting it that same color, just because I can not because it's right.

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Got the engine set back in this afternoon. Its just setting there but its back in the car. I'm still working on all the bolt on pieces, oil filter - wire loom etc. I am doing those and bolting them on as I get them finished. I won't post again until some major progress is accomplished but getting the motor back in was a big joy for me and I just had to show it.

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Okay guys I have a problem. Bob Drake and every other supplier of the battery tray for early Ford's say their battery tray is for 41 - 48 Ford cars. My tray is nothing like theirs, and I do not know why. Theirs won't come close to bolting up to my chassis. My option is to make my own battery tray, which I am in the process of doing. Lucky for me I have a welder friend that has scrap metal the right gauge to do this, and he will help me when it comes time to weld it all together. The shaping of the metal wont be to bad, just time consuming. What I keep trying to figure out is why my tray and theirs is so different, and what theirs really does fit.

Below is a picture of where my tray bolts to the chassis

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On the picture below does anyone have any idea what was the thin sheet metal that was riveted to the from of the battery tray mount??

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edhd58,

If the new tray is the same size and style as the old one and if the old brackets can be reused can't you just have your welder guy swap the brackets onto the new plate??? Just a thought, The car is coming along.

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I thought about that, but the new one cost $85 and I think thats a lot for a piece of sheet metal thats about 12x13 inches square. It's not gonna be a big deal to make one out of the sheet metal piece I get. I called it scrap but its a good new piece of metal, just a piece he cut off of something else. I'd rather use the money to but something else I can't make. The old brackets are fine, I even got a small sand blast cabinet to clean up all the smaller metal pieces, it's a lot quicker and better at getting into the corners than a wire brush. The brackets are in one of the pictures repalced on the chassis so I can tack weld the tray in place when its shaped. My friend will then finish weld it at his shop, its easier to take it to him than him bring his stuff to me.

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Ouch. That is a little costly. A little time and some simple tools and you can get it done. Doesn't look that hard of a tray to make. Looking forward to see how it comes out.

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Well, its been a while since I posted anything. Work has been slowly continuing as I've been working 55 to 60 hours a week. I did find out that the battery tray is engine specific. The V8 wont work for the 6 because of manifold interference. Any way....... I did get the brackets off the old battery tray and made my own, it's not gorgeous and beautiful, but I think it'll be just fine. The newest adventure is finding a fuel pump (original type) for the engine. The fuel pump HAS to be for the G series engine I have found out. My pump is old and all the rubber etc has dry rotted and cracked to pieces. There are many kits out there, but none of them have seem to have the cup that fits below the diaphragm and keeps fuel (or oil?) from running out the bottom of the pump. I am posting a picture of the battery tray, again it's not professional, but hey a battery is going to be covering most of it.

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Well guys, I just couldn;t stand it anymore. NO water in it, I am waiting on a thermostat, but I had to hear it run. I also did it so I can make sure it doesnt draw moisture in the cy

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Well guys I just couldn't stand it anymore. I had to get it running because of how humid it is here lately, I didn't want to risk the cylinders drawing condensation and maybe flash rusting. I did oil them heavily, but I'm a worrier. Anyway, no water in it I fired it up yesterday, and it sounded excellent. I ran it several times about 30 seconds each time and let it cool about 10 minutes between times. That was yesterday, flash forward one day. All hell broke loose today. Got everything to fire it up and run it a while. Put in a set of mechanical gauges and had filled it up with antifreeze solution 50/50. I had no worries about what I had done leaking. I was just finishing the oil pressure line when I hear a dripping sound. Once I got out of the car I see green under the engine. As I get to the front of the car all hell broke loose, 4 gallons of antifreeze is pouring onto the garage floor. I don't know how many gallons this thing holds down to the bottoms of the freeze plug, with the radiator full to the bottom of the neck, but it's all over my floor. The rear freeze plug on the driver side fell out. I just don't have the heart to mess with it tonight, I'll tackle it tomorrow.

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It's a good thing it happened when it did and not later sometime on the road miles from home. Did you use sealant and tap them hard as to expand and seat them well?

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It's a good thing it happened when it did and not later sometime on the road miles from home. Did you use sealant and tap them hard as to expand and seat them well?

Bleach is right. Take heart, count your blessings. No expensive tow.:)

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Oh yes, i definately count my blessings. Bleach, I didn't put them in, the machine shop that did the rebuild will. I am going to go back, clean the openign good, I read somwhere to use aviation Permatex, and reinstall it. I am also going to hit the others a time or two to flatten them out a little more too. Other than the flood, everything else went good.

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just a quik video of it fianlly running with no leaks. Valves sound noisy in video but arent bad in real life.

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Well CRAP. Took the car out to wash it to get ready to put on some more primer. I was letting it idle to come up to temp while washing it. At some point the oil pump quit. I dont know how long it idled with no pressure, but it never made any unusual noises. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Damn, I hate this. It hasnt ran 3 hours since the rebuild.

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Do you know for certain that the pump failed? Perhaps it's just a faulty gauge. Even if the pump did fail, todays lubricants are quite superior to those of yesteryear. I can recall television ads that show draining oil from engines while running with no adverse effects. Don't panic until you've done a thorough investigation, and then probably count your blessings! Best of luck!

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Last night all I had time to do was unhook the gauge tubing and start it to see if I had pressure to the fitting, I didn't. I did use compressed air in the oil jacket to make sure it wasn't plugged, it wasn't. With everything unhooked I started it to see if oil would squirt out of the engine, it didn't. I have a few things to check tonight. I'll keep the stats updated as I go along.

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I have seen engine destruction lotteries where they sell estimates of how long an engine will run without oil before seizing. They usually last something like 20 mins running flat out with no load.

Oil pressure release valve working?

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