Guest gunjeep444 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I drove out to Yuma, CO today and picked up my re-chromed parts for my 56 Roadmaster. The moustache bar was $350(had a dent in it they fixed also) All the taillight pieces came to $500. Heck my bumpers(at another place) were $1300 for the two. Wonder......? They didn't do pot metal though.broke jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Sounds fair by Canadian prices. I have a '56 Roadmaster 2Dr. hardtop, that I've owned for over 30 years! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Rechroming is very labor intensive and is very expensive if it is done to perfection. If perfection isn't wanted the price should reflect that. You get pretty much what you pay for. A 50's era Buick can very easily run up a tab well North of $12,000 for show quality chrome starting with average condition cores. It most likely will be the biggest chunk of money for a restoration............Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gunjeep444 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Okay, guess I did okay!Quality Plating is their name:199 West Ninth Ave.Yuma, CO 80759 map Behind Daylight Donuts Metro AreaPhone:(970) 848-2065 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadetree77 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 broke jerryLOL!!! That your new user name Jerry? Maybe we should all put "broke" in front of our names! Comes with the territory in this hobby. I for one am not looking forward to the day when it's time to start getting things re-chromed. Thanks for posting your costs though. I've been wondering how much it would be to get some things done. I know it's different depending on where you go but this at least gives me some idea. I was thinking....next time you take your '56 to a car show, you could charge $1.00 per person to sit behind the wheel and honk the horn. Think we could alleviate our broke-ness that way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadmaster75 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Ten years ago I took my bumpers and guards on my 49 Willys Overland Jeepster to a very high quality shop inDubuque, Iowa. They had to straighten the rear one while preservingthe "Willys-Overland" logo embossed in the bumper.Now these are tiny little pieces compared to our Big Buicks.The bill was $1600 for show quality chroming. They still looklike the day I brought them home. They did a great job.While I was there the owner gave my the grand tour. This was not a dark, hostile looking place like most chrome shops. He took me into nice brightroom where they do assembly and quality control for big jobs.The whole room was dedicated to ALL the interior and exterior chrome and polished stainless for a 1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville. The bill for that job ten years ago was $23,000!I'm sure the rates have not come down since then!You did good Jerry!mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 How much did it cost to drive there and back again as compared to shipping the parts back? Actually the "cost = time factor" in plating, is really dictated by the starting surface condition of the metal. Any and all pits have to be filled with copper first, second and thirdly and this is what takes time. The rest of the plating process is dip, plate and then polish, then dip, plate and polish which takes less time and is done fairly quickly compared to the initial surface conditioning treatment of pit filling. So the moral here is start with the best and brightest pieces you can. If you want to be on the mark and true for our 50's cars make sure the process is hexavalent and not trivalent or you end up getting that crackle snap chrome plastic spray can top shallow bright jobs you see on the rods and trick show cars and not the true hexavalent deep blue chrome that our cars came out with. Just my opinion here, but if you go trivalent route then you might as well mount 22 inch'ers on your restore, hang some make-me-puke fuzzy dice and call it your ride baby. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadmaster75 Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 In my case, I drove out there with the parts (about an hour and a half drive)because I wanted to go eyeball to eyeball and make sure this was the place for me.I had them ship the stuff back via UPS, tho.mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 56BuickSuper Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Jerry,Did you find another mustache bar or are we talking the same dent?Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gunjeep444 Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hey Dan, Yep, that's the one. I had lost your addresses so had not written to you.(Dan GAVE me the old bar with a dent that he had-even delivered it!). I'll attach some pix here. You can see it came out looking great, as did the tail lights. So thanks Dan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 "next time you take your '56 to a car show, you could charge $1.00 per person to sit behind the wheel and honk the horn"Hey, it'd be pretty noisy but what a great idea to get the next generation interested in old cars! When I was active in a local car club, I was always throwing my keys at some newcomer, encouraging them to take my old car for a drive. It was a plain Jane, amazingly original '56 Coronet, V8 automatic, manual steering and brakes.My new friends would come back beaming and eager to get on with their on projects or to buy their own old car to enjoy.Oops, must put this back onto the thread's topic. One of the few cosmetic repairs that my old Dodge needed was replating the rear bumper - $200, as I recall. Yes, it was a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Jerry just curious but did you ask them what they used to fill a pot metal dent? BTW: Your parts appear to have turned out real nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Jerry,About ten years ago I paid $3,000 for plating my bumpers, taillights and headlight doors. At Graves plating in Florence , Alabama. As far I know they are the only chrome platers in Alabama.. We drove up there and got the $0.50 tour. I was very impressed with the place. and quite satisfied with the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gunjeep444 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 David, When I dropped it off he said they could fill, but it was tricky, did not say what it was. When I picked them up, he said they heated them and knocked them out from the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I have taken a small pick hammer and hammered around PITS, and had some luck in moving metal over to fill the pit. Jewelery stores do this at times to fill low spots. But there again, TIME IS A FACTOR. Cast aluminum pieces often have sand pits, and hammering can help, SOMETIMES.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks. BTW: The reason asked is because I have seen some shops use everything from JB-weld to metal flake bondo to metal impregnated epoxy. The problems here is that the surface of these materials do not conduct a sufficient full surface charge differential to allow complete electro plating as if it was proper homogenous metal to metal. Also the copper will not render a complete bonding to it as well. The problems for this arise later when mounted on the car surface tensions occur due to either physical stresses or heat/cooling cycles resulting is the fill materials shearing from the main metal substrate surfaces resulting in cracks, uplifts, peels and bubbles. If I remember correctly, Pot metal which is a mix of various scrape metals, vaporizes at around 855 degrees F. so mig welding is out of the question as well as gas torch workings. There are a couple of other methods used to some degree of success to repair Pot Metal one is called Cold Weld process and the other Flash Welding but cannot attest to the overall lasting effectiveness of these methods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Pits and minor dings are filled with silver bearing solder. That's NOT silver braze. The solder has a much lower melting point than pot metal. It's available from McMaster-Carr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1953mack Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) I'd be interested in finding out how the mustache fits after "........the heating and pounding out the dent from behind.........". A member in our local Chapter said the "weight and dimensions changed somewhat" after a chrome plater worked on his pot metal mustache to the tune of over $3G's. It didn't fit!I also heard stories on how to drive straight (rather than at an angle) into an inclined or depressed off-street parking lot, alley, driveway, or jumping curbs, with the front wheels fairly level with one another, to prevent flexing of the mustache and front end sheet metal. Also, it's a good idea when you jack up the front end of the car to replace one or both tires, do oil changes or other maintenance work, to jack the car up at the center point of the front crossmember, again, to prevent overflexing of the delicate mustache. The bolts should not be torqued down so that slight movement of the mustache is eliminated. Just my $.02 worth.Al Mack"500 Miles West of Flint" Edited February 3, 2012 by 1953mack (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Really good points Al. The bars originally came with large thick rubber pads that go between the mating surface at each end of the bar so when torque occurs with the lower corner bumper sections there is some cushion. I have seen many mounted without these pads. Also, if you examine the mounting tabs on the bars the holes are elongated to some extent. BTW: I never realized this but Al's point about being careful in not over tightening these bolts when mounting the bar is an excellent point. If his advice is followed, this should then allow for some designed free play and movement in conjunction with the cushioned pad ends mentioned, thereby allowing some lateral free board movement. I can now see where this is essential here. Another culprit is with the adjustable hood pad stops not being adjusted properly and/or allowed to get worn out and or hard and thereby allowing them to get compressed from years of opening and closing. What happens here is that the compression from these conditions allows for over compression of the hood with the top inside edge of the bar in this area where the hood/fender line meet. That is probably why one sees these bars cracked at this location most of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gunjeep444 Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Well, I have not tried to put it on yet. Next warm day that I have some help I'll give it a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadetree77 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 And that, gentleman, is why I love this forum. I learn something new almost every time I log on here. Great timing too as I'm about to install a new mustache bar as well. I would most likely have overtightened the bolts and ended up with a crack in my mustache on down the road! Thanks for the info. guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) The procedure for the 54 is nicely laid out in this Buick Product Service Bulletin, including torque specs. It may be close to what is done on other model years.Sorry for the quality I had to shrink the file size down to 10% of original so it would upload.Front Grille intallation.pdf Edited February 4, 2012 by stealthbob (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Not sure about other years but on fitty fo's there is a sequence in which they should be tightened. The one attached below is from a Product Service Bulletin. If you don't have anything showing this sequence for yous you may want to see if this makes sense for other years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Too funny....simpatico dude!....must be a 54 thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 How 'bout that, two great minds typing the same thing at the same time but over 1000 miles apart. kinda scary ain't it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Thanks Mr. Earl. Yeah, at the bottom of the install instructions it states that just enough light mounting force on the outboard mounting bolts is enough or cracking will occur. Notice this is at the line where the 1st procedure section meets the 2nd procedure section and that is where these cracks occur most probably due to body flex on over tightened fastners. Thinking about this, I suppose they would of just used a heavy highly polished aluminum for these upper bar sections if they only had a good clear coat system for an overlay to protect from oxidation of the aluminum, which they did not as far as I know, so they used the pot metal with their fingers crossed and a tail light guarantee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Actually it was a 90 Day Guarantee.....unbelievable!Not only is the manual procedure important for installation, it sure does help for removal. Right MrEarl?1954 Shop Manual.pdf.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Yeah good post Bob. Just about the same as a " Tail Light " guaranteeI especially like the part at the end that says if Buick improves on anything during the model run year, then you are just out of luck. And you can't take your car to any one but an authorized Buick dealer for repairs. Justa keep'in it in the family boys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I have developed the following formula for calculating the cost of show-quality plating, based on average cores:(3x (# Sq. Inches Pot Metal) + # Sq. Inches Steel) x ((arm+leg)/2500) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J3Studio Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Great discussion, guys. Maybe I'll stay away from chrome heavy vehicles for a few more years ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 lancemb, so how much to chrome on of them dare 57 tail lights?I was never good with MATH. I keep coming up with a figure of $35.00 or $70.00 dollars.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Dale, your arm and leg price isn't calculated high enough... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 I have to check my quotes I got...I seem to remember something about "First Born".Now if it was the Boy (Second Born) I might be in the market.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gunjeep444 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Mine were $275 each(two pieces makeup one light) , total of $550 just for the taillights. $300 for the Moustache bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Was that a right to work for less shop or a union shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Lance, I think your formula needs a little fixing. (3x (# Sq. Inches Pot Metal) + # Sq. Inches Steel) x ((arm+leg)*250).This is like a story problem from math class. If a pair of NOS tail lights cost $1000 for a 1957 Buick Special, given the previous equation, what does it cost to replate a pair of Tail lights for a 1957 Buick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Those prices of $250-300 for both pieces of a 57 taillight are very cheap if it is a very nice quality that actually stands the test of time (time will tell). The housings on the large series 57 are much more expensive than the small series due to the sharp edges and fine ribbing. I have only seen ONE NOS housing for one of these after extensive searching at it was going for over $600.I had a nice core with only minimal small bubbles and no cracks (one outer housing for a Super or Roadmaster) quoted at probably the most expensive shop there is (Finishing Touch in Chicago) at $830 and two inner housings at $1214 for the pair in similar condition at the same shop. I passed (although I did let them repair my SUPER letters as the cost is worth it on fine pot metal pieces with no NOS available). Mind you, this is for Concourse quality and will look BETTER than NOS, so this is the high end. I wound up using a VERY nice, albeit not perfect, original outer housing instead of rechroming.I then had the SAME 2 inner housings quoted at a cheaper place for $225 a piece. The inner housings wound up getting broken by UPS so I have so far also used nice originals for these. I got my hood bar done at the same place though, and they charged $450 including repair of a small dent, but otherwise with very minimal small bubbles. Looked decent, but not perfect, and chrome started bubbling after a couple months. I sent it back for repair and it came back okay months later. Same place did an excellent job on the bumper end, though.Bottom line is it is not hard ot find good deals on steel bumper replating, but be very wary of pot metal repair. I believe it is often worth the extra cost up front for pot metal. Still, I'd like not to pay nearly $3,000 for taillight assembly rechrome but I don't want to settle for wavy surfaces or work that doesn't hold up, either.If anybody can find great quality to a discerning eye and a good price, please share! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Nice thread, lancemb's comments are ON TARGET................IMO anyone looking for CHEAP/INEXPENSIVE chrome and body work will most likely end up with a 20 footer, MAYBE a 50 footer. Oh how I wish POT METAL never made it in the auto building industry. I really ENJOY this site.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 You know I use to have a good buddy who worked in a chrome shop for sometime after high school. Back then and according to him, there was only one way to do chrome. The right way. Then of course there was always that shop who did just the quick and dirty way and were well known for it and proud of it to boot! Now apparently there are suddenly various ways to do chrome. Something liken to a Denny's breakfast menu approach I suppose. I just want it to look good and last a long time just like the original piece I am taking off lasted. Not to dull up or peal off. So why all the various degrees of chroming. Basic Plate, Driver, Show, Concourse - blah, blah, blah. So for me, just do it right the right way, please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) Some years ago, one of the best places here in Toronto was Galaxie Grille, and I took a couple of taillight pieces in get done. One price I remember clearly, $140. "regular chrome", and "show chrome" was going to cost $300, this was on a nice core. I went with the "regular", but the result was flawless, so I could not of seen any difference between that and "show", except that "show" would of cost me more. This was done in the mid ninties and the work has stood up very well with the kind of pampered life my cars get. Keith Edited March 1, 2012 by Buicknutty (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now