Roadmaster75

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About Roadmaster75

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    BCA #2954
  • Birthday 02/28/1948

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    58 Roadmaster75, 49 WIllys-Overland Jeepster, 51 Chevy 3100 Panel truck

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  1. Dynaflow was standard issue; unless someone ordered it with a Flight-Pitch Dynaflow. (Doubtful) Thats a wholly different animal and will require a large Flight-Pitch supplemental manual in addition to your standard shop manual. Dynaflows are unique to Buick with exception for a brief flirtation from Cadillac and Oldsmobile when the HydraMatic plant burned down in 53 or 54.....I believe. Also, Chevy/GMC used them in special chassis applications in 50s. all this from the deep recesses of my fading memory .......😳
  2. Check out Lokar too they make an adjustable column shift kit, so you can set it up with correct detents and travel Required for new trans. well made
  3. Great thread and nice work getting her running........ I’ve some good luck over the years waking up engines that have not run in decades. If you still have an irksome tick or tap..... drain that warm up oil, change filter (inspect the can and filter for metallic stuff). Refill with 4 qt.s of lighter weight oil and one quart of either Marvel Mystery oil or an engine cleaning solvent like Rislone. Get it up to operating temperature and vary the rpms up and down for a good amount of time. Shut it off let the oil drain back into pan, then do it again. Then drain that concoction and refill with your favorite oil. Some times a bit of solvent with lighter oil can free up sticky lifters ; even tho it was low mileage....... 12 years of sitting can cause those microscopic orifices in lifters clog up a bit. Im certainly no advocate of “repairs in a can” but this has worked for me on several long dead project cars over the years. One particularly irksome Studebaker V8 gave up the fight after I used 4 qts. of 10 weight mixed with........ready for this one qt. of Liquid Wrench. After getting it good and hot and winging it a few times.......settled right in . my 2 cents...... Great work!,
  4. Another cool project, Adam....... I know it’ll look great after your personal touch! I am about to do a large panel replacement on my truck and have decided to use a state of the art panel bond adhesive. It seems this material has really gone mainstream: both for new manufacturers and repair shops. Wondering if you've thought about trying it on any of your restoration projects? Mike
  5. CarbKing brings up a good point on Pertronix............ Never used their stuff , so I’m NOT a hater, but, Having spent a bunch of time at the Cadillac forums as well.......... a lot of stories over there that take a dim view of the reliability..... even many of the advocates are carrying a set of points in the glove box to avoid the hook. Cant wait to hear about the progress on this problem...... the older I get the more perverse pleasure I get from trying to shoot trouble thru an iPad.....!
  6. Sounds like the prime suspect remains the carb. But, it may be helpful to attach a mechanics grade vacuum gauge on a long hose and have it in the cockpit while replicating the symptoms you’ve described. Ported and non-ported vacuum should be checked as part of the vacuum exercise; incl. vacuum advance function. Bet this is in the Riviera shop manual....? Vacuum advance mechanisms can bind and cause the bogging you describe at higher rpms and load. Im assuming your rebuilder/mechanic would have done so.....? Ive had a love /hate relationship with 4GCs for YEARs! For ex., I Learned many years ago about the many variations for accelerator pumps on Buicks. Stir in the advent of neoprene pump skirts (one size fits all 🤣...... not on Buicks) instead of the correct Rochester leather cups and you got problems. I finally reluctantly bagged my 4GCs and replaced with model correct Carter AFB on my 58 Roadmaster. Trouble free for 30 years after that. You may want to acquire one that is correct or close to correct for your 401..... and try it. The following is an editorial comment: Im to the point that my next Buick project will be a Holley Sniper Fuel injection system that fits under the stock air cleaner and integrates the MSD ignition control with their billet distributor. I love the old stuff.........but, parts quality,availability, and expertise is becoming a limiting factor in enjoying the old cars....... In the end I just wanna drive the wheels off ‘em and not get caught out by failing points,condensers, carb parts, coils, etc. etc. my 2 cents😜
  7. Sounds like the joints inside the torque tube. Slide the assembly out from the back of the dynaflow and replace the joints.
  8. Love your car.........! I got the same treatment from “chevy guys” that hated my installation of a Stage 1 455 in my 51 half ton panel truck..... Then won Best Chevy Truck award at a large show...... go figure.
  9. As Old Tank stated...... you need to attach a good mechanics oil pressure gauge to your new rebuild. Old instruments, old sending units/tubes, etc can fluctuate greatly; esp.after the handling during the rebuild. Do this, and you can properly correlate the actual pressure with the 64 year old instrument.
  10. Edwin, You've displayed great work and tenacity so far in this exercise.......,but First Born nailed the issue here. Your personal motivations to be in the old car hobby with THIS car require some thought and decisions at this point. If your objective is to resurrect THIS car as your personal challenge....then the $4500 for a rebuild will pale in comparison to the money required to replace the brakes, wiring, glass work, interior, trans, sUspension parts, radiator, body parts, etc. etc. Many of us have taken fugitives from boneyards and restored them.......Great personal satisfaction, but the word “underwater” comes to mind in reviewing the realities of economics and the car’s value. If this is your intention, then this group will help you get it done, but, be advised........many thousands will need to be spent just to make this car move under it’s own power down the highway. If, however, you specifically want a 1951 Super 4 door to enjoy , and work on , and go to shows and cruises with...... then you will be better served by finding one that is running and in fairly good cosmetic condition for WAY less than the cost of rebuilding your engine and trans. Please, don’t take offense, but, in this scenario the car you have is a parts car at best. Guessing you could find a presentable, mechanically sound 4 door Super for well under $10,0000. Repowering it with a modern drive train will still require all the above restoration costs. My advice is to pause, reflect, and choose a path before pulling the trigger on the engine work. We’ll be rooting for you whichever direction you take!
  11. Certainly flush that system.........But, Before you start throwing parts at the gauge reading......... Buy a laser guided infra-red thermometer. This allows you to take alot of readings at key cooling system components and cylinder head locations, and top/bottom/ side to side on the radiator. Do this when the gauge reads normal......then, do same when it reads hot ..... Many times ancient gauges, tubes, and fittings cause erratic or erroneous temp readings; and even new gauges can give less than accurate readings. $25 for a decent infrared thermometer. I always throw mine in the old Im driving at the moment. My 2 cents.....
  12. Love your work, Adam...... Looks beautiful !
  13. Some years ago I was coating the frame of my 49 Willys-Overland Jeepster with POR-15. I used a small sponge and latex gloves and went after the job in earnest....... I had a formal black tie charity event that evening. After completing the messy job I went to peel off the gloves and to my horror found that the fingers had disintegrated and the POR-15 was already drying and hardening. Solvents, abrasives, acetone, reducer only marginally effective on the parts still drying...... Sat on my hands all night ........ the label says “Only time will take it off”. Boy are they right! Took about two weeks to start coming off. Beware!
  14. 50% actetone and 50% ATF.......... Tried.it and now-a believer! Hot wrench for the big stuff....
  15. Feeling your pain, Pete........ Some time ago I saw a 69 Mustang that looked great but had been put back together after repairing a hard hit in the rear end. The doors/fenders were all out of whack. There was a telltale ripple in the roof and rear pillar that the owner just couldnt attend to. It was literally bent in the middle..... The shop that he took it to for evaluation sent the car to a specialty shop with a state of the art chassis/body jig with huge computerized hydraulics in it. After getting the factory dimensions entered.......it ammazingly pulled the body back into alignment....wrinkles gone, doors fit,etc.. Just a little touch up paintwork afterwards..... Yes, it was a unitized body, but, Just wondering if one of those shops could reasonably work a little of that magic on the Wildcat for you as a last resort? Just a thought. Hang in there .......