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About Roadmaster75

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    BCA #2954
  • Birthday 02/28/1948


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    58 Roadmaster75, 49 WIllys-Overland Jeepster, 51 Chevy 3100 Panel truck

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  1. Love your car.........! I got the same treatment from “chevy guys” that hated my installation of a Stage 1 455 in my 51 half ton panel truck..... Then won Best Chevy Truck award at a large show...... go figure.
  2. As Old Tank stated...... you need to attach a good mechanics oil pressure gauge to your new rebuild. Old instruments, old sending units/tubes, etc can fluctuate greatly; esp.after the handling during the rebuild. Do this, and you can properly correlate the actual pressure with the 64 year old instrument.
  3. Edwin, You've displayed great work and tenacity so far in this exercise.......,but First Born nailed the issue here. Your personal motivations to be in the old car hobby with THIS car require some thought and decisions at this point. If your objective is to resurrect THIS car as your personal challenge....then the $4500 for a rebuild will pale in comparison to the money required to replace the brakes, wiring, glass work, interior, trans, sUspension parts, radiator, body parts, etc. etc. Many of us have taken fugitives from boneyards and restored them.......Great personal satisfaction, but the word “underwater” comes to mind in reviewing the realities of economics and the car’s value. If this is your intention, then this group will help you get it done, but, be advised........many thousands will need to be spent just to make this car move under it’s own power down the highway. If, however, you specifically want a 1951 Super 4 door to enjoy , and work on , and go to shows and cruises with...... then you will be better served by finding one that is running and in fairly good cosmetic condition for WAY less than the cost of rebuilding your engine and trans. Please, don’t take offense, but, in this scenario the car you have is a parts car at best. Guessing you could find a presentable, mechanically sound 4 door Super for well under $10,0000. Repowering it with a modern drive train will still require all the above restoration costs. My advice is to pause, reflect, and choose a path before pulling the trigger on the engine work. We’ll be rooting for you whichever direction you take!
  4. Certainly flush that system.........But, Before you start throwing parts at the gauge reading......... Buy a laser guided infra-red thermometer. This allows you to take alot of readings at key cooling system components and cylinder head locations, and top/bottom/ side to side on the radiator. Do this when the gauge reads normal......then, do same when it reads hot ..... Many times ancient gauges, tubes, and fittings cause erratic or erroneous temp readings; and even new gauges can give less than accurate readings. $25 for a decent infrared thermometer. I always throw mine in the old Im driving at the moment. My 2 cents.....
  5. Love your work, Adam...... Looks beautiful !
  6. Some years ago I was coating the frame of my 49 Willys-Overland Jeepster with POR-15. I used a small sponge and latex gloves and went after the job in earnest....... I had a formal black tie charity event that evening. After completing the messy job I went to peel off the gloves and to my horror found that the fingers had disintegrated and the POR-15 was already drying and hardening. Solvents, abrasives, acetone, reducer only marginally effective on the parts still drying...... Sat on my hands all night ........ the label says “Only time will take it off”. Boy are they right! Took about two weeks to start coming off. Beware!
  7. 50% actetone and 50% ATF.......... and now-a believer! Hot wrench for the big stuff....
  8. Feeling your pain, Pete........ Some time ago I saw a 69 Mustang that looked great but had been put back together after repairing a hard hit in the rear end. The doors/fenders were all out of whack. There was a telltale ripple in the roof and rear pillar that the owner just couldnt attend to. It was literally bent in the middle..... The shop that he took it to for evaluation sent the car to a specialty shop with a state of the art chassis/body jig with huge computerized hydraulics in it. After getting the factory dimensions ammazingly pulled the body back into alignment....wrinkles gone, doors fit,etc.. Just a little touch up paintwork afterwards..... Yes, it was a unitized body, but, Just wondering if one of those shops could reasonably work a little of that magic on the Wildcat for you as a last resort? Just a thought. Hang in there .......
  9. Great shots and wonderful find, Adam! I put new original spec springs in my 58 Roadmaster and it sat up a bit upon installation. (Eaton-Detroit Spring) However, they they settled in to correct ride height after driving a couple hundred miles. Maybe, PO put new ones in....? Glad you made it run silently.......nothing like a well tuned Buick , idling in the driveway......and all you really notice is the gentle whine of the DynaFlow......
  10. Based in your description I wouldn’t worry about over revving at 3000. If anything let it run longer if it’s that cold. I’d also put it in drive and reverse after warming up just to ensure trans circulation. I built a Stage One for my truck project and warmed it up regularly. If it was dry....... I drove it around the block a few times. No worries.
  11. and, by the way..... dontcha love that little tach!,
  12. Nice installation and good choice for equipment....... I live about 15 miles from the AutoMeter factory. Good folks...... they saved my bacon a couple of times when I was racing a nostalgia front engine dragster. beautiful Electra
  13. Glad its running! Hope it’s a quick kill on the trans, Adam. was Dynaflow out recently by previous owner? Sounds like trans wanted to engage allright..... maybe an errant bolt or piece of hardware in there ? Cant wait to hear what you find!
  14. Another winner , Adam! Congratulations! On my little iPhone screen.......looks like an AFB on there, too..? Have fun with it
  15. Yes, my question, too........ as I understand, if you find a Buick differential from a 61 or 62... (open drive lines) it will bolt right in to your housing.