Roadmaster75

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Everything posted by Roadmaster75

  1. Certainly flush that system.........But, Before you start throwing parts at the gauge reading......... Buy a laser guided infra-red thermometer. This allows you to take alot of readings at key cooling system components and cylinder head locations, and top/bottom/ side to side on the radiator. Do this when the gauge reads normal......then, do same when it reads hot ..... Many times ancient gauges, tubes, and fittings cause erratic or erroneous temp readings; and even new gauges can give less than accurate readings. $25 for a decent infrared thermometer. I always throw mine in the old Im driving at the moment. My 2 cents.....
  2. Love your work, Adam...... Looks beautiful !
  3. Some years ago I was coating the frame of my 49 Willys-Overland Jeepster with POR-15. I used a small sponge and latex gloves and went after the job in earnest....... I had a formal black tie charity event that evening. After completing the messy job I went to peel off the gloves and to my horror found that the fingers had disintegrated and the POR-15 was already drying and hardening. Solvents, abrasives, acetone, reducer only marginally effective on the parts still drying...... Sat on my hands all night ........ the label says “Only time will take it off”. Boy are they right! Took about two weeks to start coming off. Beware!
  4. 50% actetone and 50% ATF.......... Tried.it and now-a believer! Hot wrench for the big stuff....
  5. Feeling your pain, Pete........ Some time ago I saw a 69 Mustang that looked great but had been put back together after repairing a hard hit in the rear end. The doors/fenders were all out of whack. There was a telltale ripple in the roof and rear pillar that the owner just couldnt attend to. It was literally bent in the middle..... The shop that he took it to for evaluation sent the car to a specialty shop with a state of the art chassis/body jig with huge computerized hydraulics in it. After getting the factory dimensions entered.......it ammazingly pulled the body back into alignment....wrinkles gone, doors fit,etc.. Just a little touch up paintwork afterwards..... Yes, it was a unitized body, but, Just wondering if one of those shops could reasonably work a little of that magic on the Wildcat for you as a last resort? Just a thought. Hang in there .......
  6. Great shots and wonderful find, Adam! I put new original spec springs in my 58 Roadmaster and it sat up a bit upon installation. (Eaton-Detroit Spring) However, they they settled in to correct ride height after driving a couple hundred miles. Maybe, PO put new ones in....? Glad you made it run silently.......nothing like a well tuned Buick , idling in the driveway......and all you really notice is the gentle whine of the DynaFlow......
  7. Based in your description I wouldn’t worry about over revving at 3000. If anything let it run longer if it’s that cold. I’d also put it in drive and reverse after warming up just to ensure trans circulation. I built a Stage One for my truck project and warmed it up regularly. If it was dry....... I drove it around the block a few times. No worries.
  8. and, by the way..... dontcha love that little tach!,
  9. Nice installation and good choice for equipment....... I live about 15 miles from the AutoMeter factory. Good folks...... they saved my bacon a couple of times when I was racing a nostalgia front engine dragster. beautiful Electra
  10. Glad its running! Hope it’s a quick kill on the trans, Adam. was Dynaflow out recently by previous owner? Sounds like trans wanted to engage allright..... maybe an errant bolt or piece of hardware in there ? Cant wait to hear what you find!
  11. Another winner , Adam! Congratulations! On my little iPhone screen.......looks like an AFB on there, too..? Have fun with it
  12. Yes, my question, too........ as I understand, if you find a Buick differential from a 61 or 62... (open drive lines) it will bolt right in to your housing.
  13. I’m no believer in “repair in a can”, BUT, I had very good luck with the Lucas transmission sealer/conditioner product in a leaky Flight Pitch Dynaflow in a 58 Roadmaster. Pricey, but noticable reduction in fluid getting past the torque tube seal , especially when the car was driven on a more regular basis. They don’t like sitting around!
  14. Beautiful work, Sir! Heads up........Those big ole 58 tail lamp housings use only the two long studs as the ground to the body. Ensure that those threaded ends are bare metal contact or you’ll experience the “Floating ground ghosts” with the tail/brake lights. I actually added a short hidden wire from the studs to the body to make sure electrolysis didn’t creep in. ask me how I know!
  15. I had a shelf full of trophies from U.S. 30 Dragstrip in H/SA back in 1966 and 1967. I had a 55 Special 2D Hardtop. with Dynaflow. This class was for stock vehicles with 265 cu. inch and auto. Needless to say every 265 Chevy with a cast iron PowerGlide would be in my class. Toasted all of them! Brake torque in LOW as much as you dare....then mash throttle on Green. Same scenario all the time...... I'd jump 2 to 3 car lengths at the start, wind it out, shift to D and they would never catch up. Then, just pick up the trophy, get a picture, pound the hubcaps back on and cruise home. They hated me........ Go out looking for Tri 5 Chevies and have some fun!!
  16. my opinon..... i've done 5 of these motors. Although your rear main didn’t leak before.....it will at some point. Be fearless! Replace every soft part with new state-of the art seals and gaskets. This includes the timing cover seal conversion to a lipped, neoprene pressed seal. Stick it back in and enjoy your Riviera!
  17. Simply spectacular work on a spectacular Car.....! Would love to see your masterpiece in person someday.....
  18. For what its worth......... Dei’s pic shows exacrly the same weave and buckle style I got from Julianos. Good automotive archeology going on here!
  19. Lance I was very pleased with the color and buckle selection I made at Julianos for my 58 Roadmaster. It had the leather and cloth silver interior. They nailed the silver belt webbing and matched to a period correct chrome “airliner” style buckle. They are not the cheapest but I felt they had the greatest range of options for my car. Looked factory. No longer own the car or i’d send pics. Mike
  20. Serious drag racers have weather stations in their trailers for a reason. The "air density" meter probably the most useful gauge in the pits. Humid , hot days at the strip meant slower times. Cooler, less humid air meant quicker times. Air pressure, air temperature, and humidity comprise "air density". Damp wet air requires leaner tunes. More dry air allows for richer tunes to make more power. Water molecules in the air are not conducive to burning fuel. I ran an alcohol front engine dragster for a number of years. The air density meter pretty much dictated the choice of nozzles on the mechanical fuel injection set up. Gasoline passenger cars are more forgiving, but the principle is the same. Our Buicks will always run better on a cool, dry autumn evening.
  21. Neat car! If taking out from the top....... No need to be afraid of taking out the ridge at the top of the cylinder. Rent , borrow, or buy a small hand reamer. You'll have that ridge leveled in minutes. Getting the oil pan down so you can push out the offending piston remains will be covered in detail by my Buick brothers here shortly, I'm sure. You will then get to pull out the busted piston pieces and scrape out the thick layer of gray/black splooge from your pan. No need to fear this job.......just good advice from the boys here, a good helper, good tools, and good common sense. And, lastly ..... if you can't see daylight through the other pistons on that bank.... leave 'em in there and enjoy driving that car. Mr. Bond got it right!
  22. Quick kill....... replace condenser. have had 2 fail out of the box over the years. if you have a known good one....try it. falied condensers can exhibit the intermittent symptoms you are having.
  23. Thtats it all right, Caballero2. Mine broke at the skinny part of the casting. Years of interchangeability on this part? Perhaps other GM marques used same parts? Gonna ask myCadillac form boys if there's any chance Caddy stuff was the same Will start looking for used or possiblyNOS replacements. thanks to all contributors! Mike
  24. Well Lads The pivot screw is in place......but that little pot metal cam deal has broken in half. How do I best source the replacement parts for this assembly? Are there any NOS turn signal parts out there that someone knows of? or, should I start looking for non-broken used ones? what years , makes , models might interchange? mike