Roadmaster75

I have put together a small set of tools in a box that goes on any drive or show locally. For longer excursions, I have a milk crate with a generator, water pump, regulator, starter, belts, and a fuel pump in it. I've never had to actually USE any of those items on a trip in the last 30 years. They are there to make me feel better & act as voodoo style good luck charms! I am, of course…superstitious! <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/fe1dae58/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

I'd return to the stock balancer & nix the idea of the ATI piece. Too many variables arise when fooling around with hubs, pulleys, accessories on these old Buicks. You get into mis-match situations real fast. Unless the internals of the motor are highly modified for extreme duty I doubt any noticeable improvement in performance would be realized with the ATI. Also, Buick 350s & 455s have MANY different variations of pulleys and accessories year to year. As long as the original parts are available…I'd put it all back in and spend the money elsewhere. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/be05b166/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Yeah, Pete A good 455 might be easier to find as well, unless originality is important on the project. Visually the 455 would be indistinguishable once installed. Wondering if the motor cracked somewhere around those stuck lifters and the car had straight water for coolant in it. Then they may have parked it and the water damage began to eat the poor thing up! Those lifter valleys are weak points on that motor. I had one in here that had the lifter bores split open & one of the pushrods was wrapped around the crank where the rod used to reside! Not pretty! There was about 5 or 6 pounds of shrapnel in the pan including a rod that had broken off at the wrist pin. The guy that sold me the motor said it was in need of rebuilding, but otherwise complete and in good condition…………! The good ending is that he didn't know the motor had a set of original Stage 1 heads on it. I didn't realize they were Stage 1's until I tore it apart. Sold those for more than twice what I paid for the motor! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/1e3d64fe/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

75-76 Buick 455s had updated structural (lifter valley) and oiling passage improvements incorporated into the castings. Hence, they are preferred by 455 enthusiasts. Also, the 75-76 heads do not have the A.I.R. heat passage holes that the 73 motors will have. I used a 73 Riviera 455 in my"LoadMaster" 51 Chevy panel truck & had to plug all those passages in order to allow the installation of aftermarket intake manifold. As Brad pointed out above the 73 manifolds had tubular shaped passages cast in to them for the nasty stuff to travel thru! The 76 would be a better choice for a hot rod or street machine, in my opinion. Regardless of your choice I have always incorporated the following into a 455 Buick build: - upgrade the timing cover seal from "rope" to conventional neoprene seal (T/A Performance & elsewhere.) - upgrade to newer style rear main seal (be sure to offset clock it 1/4" to assure a good seal.) - buy the T/A Performance oil pump plate kit & the adjustable oil pressure fixture ( only a few bucks to remedy the wear on the oil pump thrust side of the timing cover & you'll have gobs of adjustable oil pressure) Pack the oil pump with Vaseline to assure good priming on initial start up. - Teflon coated cam bearings that improve the oiling of the camshaft bearings. These require the cam bearing installer to pay attention to the instructions for clocking them into position! Lastly, whatever motor you use ….. use the pulleys that came on the motor originally to ensure correct belt line up. A lot of 455 builders buy a pulley here & there or off of eBay and then realize there were some many variations in 455 configurations they end up with a bunch of pulleys that bolt on, but don't line up! mike<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/1e3d64fe/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/1e3d64fe/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/1e3d64fe/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Hi Pete I just went and looked at the underside of my dash on the 58 Roadmaster75 …. (Unrestored & just rolled 40,000 mi.) It looks just like yours. The map lights and switch have small chrome surround moldings, but the rest of the metal is painted like yours. If you want me to take a picture .. let me know. Great looking car!! Mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/cb33c7cd/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Mirko According to my 59 Buick sales brochure…. the correct tire size for your car is 8.00 X 15 mounted on 15X6 wheels. It's looking GREAT! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/f0ec25bc/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Just for the record You are correct, BuickMan, maybe "some guys" might think their spare is original when it is not ……. However, mine IS original & I am highly convinced Matt's is also as I have personal knowledge of his car; albeit from long ago…. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/f0ec25bc/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Hi CeeJay I'll never think about "hot tanking" an engine the same way after seeing your method! Fantastic! What kind of chemical is in there? How much juice did you apply to the barrel? and for how long? Keep 'em coming! BTW, the fan is incorrect for that motor…. but you probably knew that. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/c5ad9e5c/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Matt, I'd keep the original stuff for simplicity's sake…. I drive my Roadie in high heat (90-100F) to car shows/cruises each summer. If the regulator/gen/battery are all tip top….no issues in 26 years. Observation: I do have an after market stereo (250 watts) hidden in a plastic box (no Buick originality was harmed in this superficial installation!) & it will indeed pull down the charging rate, but still charges IF NO lights are on. With stereo blasting, lights on, in "Drive", at idle …. she's discharging a bit … at cruising speed, she's about dead center. But, honestly, I'd rather listen to the old SonoMatic and watch the glow of the dial……..!! my 2 cents mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/c5ad9e5c/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

As far as originality…. I have an original spare in my RoadMaster 75 & it's a 2 3/4" whitewall (looks identical to yours, Matt). As far as I can determine that is correct for 58s. I suspect 57s are the same. Obviously, they got narrower over the years. I say, put whatever you think looks good on your car & pleases YOU! It has always amazed me how a 1/2" or 3/4" increase or decrease in whitewall width changes the whole look of the car. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/c5ad9e5c/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Most excellent progress! For your grille…… What I do (about once every 2 or 3 years). Since mine is still attached, I use one of those little swiveling, rolling stools & a blunt cone shaped felt pad that will chuck up in your variable speed 3/8 drill. A dab of metal polish on the end and let the drill do the work. A favorite beverage is recommended since you'll be doing 160 of them! I wipe off the residue and follow up with a bit of wax…. Last time it took 3 hours! Good thing it wasn't cocktail hour……. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/8f3c840/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

I knew it! This is the car I remember from 1973….! It was well known and highly regarded by us all at the Chicagoland Chapter back then. I recall how immaculate it was and how it shined. We were all astonished at its condition when he drove it to our Chapter meeting for the first time. I was 25 back then and I had the privilege of being the "tail gunner" in an old Buick caravan to Flint for the 73 Flint Buick Nationals. My 48 Super was not done, so I made the trek in my 71 Boat tail Riviera. I was to carry tools,assorted spare parts, fluids, ether, jumpers, etc etc. It was a hot day, but we got there with just minor issues along the way. This 57 would have been considered a "new" car in the club back then!!!! Most of the fellows were a lot older than me so they were all into the 30s/40s cars then. My recollection of cars making the trip: 39 Roadmaster 4 dr. sidemounts - Blue 40 Special 4 dr. sidemounts - blue 38 Century convertible (sidemounts, black & gorgeous!) 40 Super Coupe (black) 49 Super woodie wagon (green) 49 Super 56S fastback (black) 41 Limited model 90L (black) 54 Skylark (red) and the 57 Super! The car looks EXACTLY as it did back in 1973. The story above is EXACTLY as I recall the owner stating it to me. I've known he's had it all these years & wish I'd had acquired it myself somewhere along the way. If I can find any pics with this car in the scene I'll convert from slides and upload them. I've got some great shots fromFlint shows and others back in the 70s. …………… Lots of fond memories of the cars and friends who owned them…. not many of them around anymore…… Enjoy your car! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/90e1e4e4/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/90e1e4e4/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/90e1e4e4/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Hi Matt Beautiful car! I think I know this car from way back in 1973-74…. If it came from suburban Chicago, I would know the previous owner who got it in 1968. If it is I can relate some history from the 1973 BCA National in Flint. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/90e1e4e4/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Yep, John is right on mentioning ignition wiring …. a quick kill if you see "lightning" down there. Also, Time to step back and assess the total package in the correct sequence. Vacuum, ignition, carb. I think we can set the potential manifold crack issue aside for just a bit & Let's try to keep it out of the "shop" as much as possible so you can enjoy your car with greater confidence. First…. immediately buy a 1976 Buick factory shop manual & start reading the sections pertinent to what we will be guiding you on in the future…. Maybe $40-50 for a "non-greasy" one! IMHO, this will eliminate a lot of the mystery surrounding some of these systems to a newcomer…. even if you do not do the work personally; you'll not be in the dark when discussing the issues and cures with a mechanic. It's a great tutorial on exactly how your car works. Now, Since it's stumbling off idle and smooths out later ….. let's go to vacuum first. You are hearing "puffs" or "hisses" under there so this is where I'd go first. A 1976 Buick Electra has a LOT of vacuum hoses and ports. They affect engine operation, A/C / Climate control, EGR, etc…... Are you comfortable taking the air cleaner off and inspecting all vacuum hoses for cracks, disconnections, or missing entirely? Sometimes even a little vacuum connection can affect engine operation quite a bit! Do you have a vacuum gauge? (cheap tool) or, a timing light ($50 ish)? Are you comfortable observing the mechanical operation of the vacuum advance on the distributor? Are you OK with hooking up a timing light and checking initial timing at idle? When engine vacuum is applied to the port on the vacuum advance mechanism on the side of the distributor; movement should be observed that results in the timing being advanced to assure smooth acceleration. This is an inexpensive part and can easily get "stuck" esp. in a car driven infrequently. I recommend checking this stuff first because it sounds "likely" based on your description; plus, it's relatively quick/easy to do and cheap to fix even if you take it to your mechanic to do. The other guys will chime in with greater advice I'm sure; but, based on your input so far….this is how I might start. Once any major vacuum causes are eliminated (or, point us elsewhere…) we can turn our attention to other ignition components …. like the solid state module under the cap, cap itself, rotor, etc. While you digest this….get a long lighter (like you'd use to ignite your fireplace or BBQ) & while the car is running hold it down around the mating surfaces of the manifold and cylinder heads as best you can and see if you observe the flame flickering with the pulsing of the motor, due to a leak…. just a thought. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/90e1e4e4/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Hello Gareth and Welcome What exactly has failed…? Did they both break or crack for some reason or …? Or, are they just leaking at the mating surface of the cylinder head & making noise? I've rebuilt a few 455 big blocks over that last few years and have never seen one cracked or broken unless knocked about or abused by the previous owner. A well taken care of 53,000 mile car should not have any exhaust manifold problems, IMO. The bolts retaining them are a different matter. Great care should be taken if you attempt to extract the manifolds as they tend to want to break off in the cylinder head! These high nickel blocks in Buicks and Cadillacs are really tough but the bolts do deteriorate badly, especially the ones that are open ended. I don't think I have any on the shelf , but, I'll check my stash of spare parts today anyway. Once removed a set of ARP exhaust manifold bolts will eliminate the problem. Let's assess and the boys here will provide support! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/90e1e4e4/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

CeeJay Love what you & your crew are doing with this car! Wouldn't it be cool to see this car at the next BCA event!? At the rate you are going….it'll be ready! Keep the pictures coming! Merry Christmas! <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/6944ec7a/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Great work , Adam! The car looks terrific! I've painted a few cars in gravel driveways with great results! Of course, that was back in the acrylic lacquer days. I hosed down the gravel around the car & got amazingly good results. A few gnats were found to be doing the backstroke in a few places, but were dispatched with wet sanding and buffing. Painted the Jeepster just as you did in a garage with a dampened floor. Used base coat/pearl coat/clear coat from PPG and was amazed at how good it came out. ( except for the "Sharpie" areas! ) I continue to use my 35 year old Binks #7 siphon gun for final coats & a Sears gun for primers/sealers. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5ef824f8/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Awesome Cabellero! BUT, Caution on using "Sharpies" for notations on the painted surfaces….. I , too did this on my 49 Jeepster (yes, it's got a BUICK engine/trans!) about 14 years ago…. In my case I had primed the whole body with PPG DP 50; first coat after metal work. Then I cleverly went around to went around the body and made various notes to myself on high spots/low spots using a "Sharpie". Then proceeded to continue to level those spots with further sanding and skim coat. In some spots…where the finish body work did not include some spots where I used the "Sharpie" IT BLED THROUGH ALL LAYERS OF primer/sealer/base coat/pearl coat/ clear!!!!!!! This was all top drawer PPG material. Trust me, you must ensure ALL remnants of the ink is sanded/blasted into oblivion before any body work or paint work. I don't know what's in that stuff, but NOTHING I tried would prevent bleed through. I noticed this (in horror) only after I committed to the final color coats and watched it bleed through; much like playing with invisible ink as a kid! Tried heavier coats of sealer & base… only to see the ink materialize as it dried…..Luckily the two or three spots of ink remnants were in somewhat inconspicuous areas and will only be seen if I point it out to you. I use post it notes now!!!! <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/4c89dc4e/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

What a great car and great project!! Keep up the good work!! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/f139a212/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

At the swap meets over the years I routinely scour the junk tables for old junk carbs that have the unmistakable Buick "starter switch" protrusion ….. Now have a small stash of spare starter switch parts for the Roadie, should it ever require attention. Getting harder to spot them, but still run across one once in a while. Keep your eyes peeled! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/f8c0a406/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Yep, you need to replace the brake light pressure switch at the master cylinder. NAPA has them … The tubular connectors seem to be more available than the blade style switches. They work the same way, you just need to adapt it as needed. these things go bad every 2-4 years. I just had to replace the one in my 58 Roadie just before a car show this past weekend. Since I have three cars with pressure type switches, I buy two for each car and keep one in the glove boxes! (BTW, silicon brake fluid in the system can make them go bad just a little faster.) mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/b3a4d55a/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

OK I'm Thoroughly LOST! M <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/98283e6d/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Your oil pump will work just fine, even if the vacuum chamber is deceased. mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/98283e6d/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Hi Pete, No problemo… go ahead and use the response (s) BTW Maybe we should post a "Wanted" ad for smoking 57 & 58 Buicks!! mike <script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/98283e6d/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

Yes, I was one of those that had a smoking 58. As stated pull off the vacuum lines going to the windshield wiper motor and plug them …….If the smoking stops… you can rest easier! The auxiliary vacuum pump that feeds the wiper motor is located in the oil pan & is part of the oil pump assembly. When it fails, manifold vacuum (which ALSO feeds the wiper motor) overcomes the aux pump and pulls oil right into the intake manifold; causing the smoking you are encountering. It is a horrible way to run a simple windshield wiper motor & was one of Buick's worst moves…IMHO! I'm betting this is what you are seeing. I often wonder how many perfectly good 57/8 Buicks were abandoned or junked prematurely when owners saw the huge amount of smoke this condition can produce. If this is indeed what you observe, my solution would be to keep the lines nicely plugged & buy a nice electric conversion motor for your wipers and enjoy driving your Buick.<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/c8bbda79/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>