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About 1958bkspecial

  • Birthday 09/18/1960

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  1. I am replacing my 1955 Roadmaster engine with a newer one. For sale is the original nailhead -322, V8 and transmission. I am not sure of the mileage, but it turns and is not locked up. asking $700. Please call or text for pictures I am located in central Illinois. 217-979-336 one. ALL proceeds go to the restoration of this 2-door Hardtop. James
  2. I am restoring a 1955 Buick Roadmaster and need a better hood that does not have stress fractures by the hinges. I know this is a problem with these hoods. Maybe someone can suggest how to re-enforce these. i have been told that the cracks will reappear even if this hood is repaired and strengthened. James 217-979-336one.
  3. Hello; I am need of 1955 Buick Roadmaster parts. A better trunk lid and hood. Do you have those? text or call 217-979-3361. Thanks
  4. Hello Everyone; I have read many previous posts from other 1957 Buick owners about solutions to the loose play /alignment problems resulting from the one year ball joint application. Many have talked about the expense of rebuilt joints. Others have decided to change the A-arms converting to '58-60 Buick arms and using a different ball joint altogether. I notice the steering wheel on my '57 Century wants to go to the right as soon as I let go. I have had a reputable mechanic tell me that I need new control arm bushings and new ball joints. I told him about the reputation the '57 ball joints have. His answer was, "while we are putting new bushings on the control arms , the ball joints should be done since they have a lot of play in them". My heart sank as I know the cost of those suckers! $$$$ My questions are this..... How many owners have actually used rebuilt ball joints with success and how long did they last? Is there a cheaper way to rebuild them? When converting to 58-60 Buick A-arms /newer ball joints ,did you notice good results? Are the suspension parts the same on all of the series 40, 50, 60 ,70? How does this affect the originality? Since I do not have the tools/know how to mechanically do this, I am wondering what to do. I can picture the whole process from diagrams and reading but I don't have the skills or tools needed. I am trying to find a cost effective way to improve the suspension. Thank you for your suggestions and experience. Jim
  5. Hey Brandon; Here is a contact for parts from Alan, in Oregon, who has many parts you are looking for such as the gravel guard. His ph.# is 503-371-3358. Jim
  6. Welcome. Yes, we love pictures. I have found many parts on ebay for my '57. I am very please with the selection and parts I have acquired from Fusick automotive in CT. They have many parts for 1950's Buicks. Check out the Buick Catalog at www.fusick.com. The AACA is a great place to start. J.R.
  7. Hello Moparguy; I am interested in your tail lights. Can you send or post some pictures. I am interested in replacing/rechroming my 57 Century bezels. Do these include outer and inner bezels? Thanks, J.R. at gliss46@sbcglobal.net
  8. Time to feature my favorite Buick Year model.....a 1957 Century in Champaign, Illinois. Our subdivision pond. Thanks for the opportunity. J.R.
  9. Thank you, everyone, for your help. I went to NAPA auto parts and ordered a new switch after locating it thanks to picture that was posted. I easily replaced it myself. Right there on the Master cylinder. How easy was that! Now my lights are working!!! Also I checked them while the car ignition was on. I have turn signals and back up lights!!! How awesome is that! I really appreciate the tips you all give and am glad when there are a few things I can do myself. J.R.
  10. Thank you Jim. Yes , I do have a working dome light. So I should be looking at the Master cylinder area which I had rebuilt. I will do that. I was not sure if the fuse label went to the one above or below. I thought the Brake switch was near the pedal under the dash somewhere. I still have a lot to learn. Thanks again. J.R.
  11. I am hoping by posting some pictures here someone can tell me what is missing for my 1957 Century. The brakes and master cylinder have gotten ALL the attention this summer. Now I am trying to figure out the lights. I have turn signals, just no back up or Brake lights. Looks like a fuse housing / fuse is missing and I cannot see a brake light switch.? Any help or diagram would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, J.R.
  12. Hello Jason; I also have '57 Century 4-door hardtop and have no side mirrors. I was wanting to add some but have resisted mounting anything. I have also thought about the peep mirrors since they can be removed. I am still working on the brakes for now. Please Let us know what you decide. I would like to hear more from you about your Century. Here is my personal email...gliss46@sbcglobal.net Thanks JR
  13. I am looking for advice on whether to replace the brake vacuum tank in my '57 Century. I was told I have a vacuum leak and need a new check valve and resevoir tank. Is that part easy to find and with what is the tank replaced? My tank looks amazingly solid from top to bottom without removing it. The master cylinder has been rebuilt and new shoes and wheel cylinders put on. Pedal works great too. Just, not much brake action when pushed to the floor. What have others done to fix this and is my vacuum tank irrepairable? JR
  14. Hello Newbie; Buick cars with the "carburetor vacuum starter switch" often have problems. Mine was cracked and a replacement impossible to find for my rebuilt Rochester carb.on my '57. I had a dash mounted switch installed. Fifthaveinternetgarage.com has technical tips for everything including" Buicks with vacuum starter switches" mounted on the throttle body of the carb. Also there have been posts here in the past about a- '60 LeSabre carburetor piece". My favorite article was also from ..southernwheels.com. April 06. A whole page on the accelorator vacuum switch. Check out their archives!! Hope these articles help you get yours started. JR
  15. I would like to add that I was able to get the SEM brand paint and vinyl prep cleaner at my Sherwin Williams paint store. The Color Coat was around $15.00 each. I would order it online at" Amazon" next time if I knew how much I was going to need and what color. Shipping would have been free for the bulk and cost less. There is also a SEM color chart on line. Just search that when looking. Thank you for the words of encouragement. JR
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