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Just_Some_Young_Kid's Achievements

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  1. I knew I wasn't crazy. I think they'll be a little hard going back on but I'm just going to leave them, there's no way for them to come out when everything's together Kev..
  2. Thanks Aaron and Bloo, I didn't think they were supposed to be like that as there isn't really a need, they fit in that recess in the spider gear. That just tells me either they did it that way from the factory, or someone's been here before me (much more likely). I'll clean out the bearings and grease them good. The seals look okay, not much leakage from what I can tell. If I do need to replace them, I know now that it isn't hard to take apart the rear end. Thanks, Kev
  3. Well, I finally got around to doing what I wanted to do on the Buick. I was pretty busy last weekend but today I was free to do this. Both bearings look nice, everything seems to be in good shape. The oil was a bit goopy and black though and I got my hands pretty dirty. This is as far as I got before it started heavy raining and I had to put the cover back on her. The only thing is the axle retaining clips were stuck on, like the ends were pinched over the axle. I'll try to achieve that again when I put them back in. Turns out the whole problem to the wallowed out backing plate holes was one stud that doesn't want to stay put. I figure I can just put a ground down bolt in there and it would be good, since the axle itself is worn down a bit where the flat spot on the stud is supposed to go. Other side backing plate is perfect, despite the lack of brakes on it. Kev
  4. Very sorry I haven't given any updates to the project, but only because there hasn't been much. I've turned the one drum so it's nice and smooth now, found some rear brake backing plates, and got all the fittings loose on the brake switch/line junction thingy. I still need to remove the master cylinder to rebuild it, I just can't seem to unscrew the pushrod for it on the front. It's the only thing stopping me. Inside the reservoir isn't bad actually, just a bit of surface rust. Tomorrow I plan to take the axle out and replace that backing plate as well as get everything for the rear brake sorted. I also plan to replace all the hard lines with nicopp lines, hoping I can reuse at least some fittings. Already have the wheel cylinders, flexible hoses, shoes, all that, although I might not even need shoes. I'll take some pictures of what I find tomorrow Kev..
  5. So. Next on the agenda is figure out how to pull the left rear axle so I can change the backing plate, since its wallowed out on the studs and causing it to move around. The left rear shock is also disconnected. I'm sure I can just look it up in the manual, but is there any special tools I need or special tips for taking apart that rear diff? I just need to have one side out. In the meantime, I'm going to look for a backing plate and see if I can assemble the other side's brakes. Kev
  6. Update! I just remembered there was a full drum brake kit in the trunk and I wasn't sure what it went to, now I know! Looks to be fairly "new" hardware. Also, a radio static eliminator. I would have never thought, thanks!
  7. Y'all are too much. I checked out the brake system today, I have some good news and bad news. Good news is the right front is completely fine and probably usable, except for the lines and wheel cylinder. I'd be completely fine with using everything here. Also the wheel bearings are good with that vintage American grease. Bad news, the right rear is completely gone. Left rear has wallowed out holes for the backing plate but everything is there. Haven't taken apart left front yet but it is hard to turn like the brakes are hung up. I can get away with only turning the right rear drum, but I still need ALL hardware for it. There's also this piece behind the grease cap that looks kinda mangled. I'm sure it's some type of nut retainer, but can I go without it? I've seen other wheel bearings without this piece and no problems. Thanks, Kev
  8. Thanks Keith, I plan to go ethanol resistant anyway, but there are some ethanol free gas stations around here I'll try and go to. Also, i know there are a lot of video tutorials online, maybe I can use some of them. As for the insulation I plan to replace most of it anyway, I believe its getting wet from a window leak and causing rust on the floor pans. Rodney, I plan to work on it this weekend, and at least tear into the brakes. I plan to drive it not every day but maybe every other, I don't want to be too hard on her. I'll be taking pictures of what I find this weekend, thanks! Kev
  9. Thank you Craig, I'll definitely call in the future, since I probably need about all of that. JBP, that looks exactly like what I'm dealing with here, thank you for the research. There's a lot of options I could go with, I think I'll try 60FlatTop's suggestion since it sounds the easiest, if it doesn't work then I'll make a proper hose with fittings.
  10. That's a great idea! I think that's what I'll do, thanks a lot! Thanks for the ethanol resistant hose recommendations, the thing is I thought I needed a flexible hose that looks exactly like what's on there. It actually looks like brake hose, so I thought I needed something similar, but the flare trick is great. I'll probably just steal some hose from the shop anyway, lol.
  11. Hi Frank, glad to know I have something that someone likes. Maybe you could help me with my next question. The fuel line coming from the tank that goes to the pump is a hard line except right next to the engine, where there's a small section, a few inches long, of flexible hose. I was thinking of just using brake line for the fuel line and using the original fitting to the pump. My question is, where can I find this flexible hose that is especially for fuel? It needs to have a fitting on each end, and I know I can't use brake hose. Do I need to make one or can I find a cheap one somewhere? I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to make one, I'm just curious.
  12. But, since I'm getting a new battery tomorrow, and if the battery is actually good, I'll squirt some oil in the cylinders and fire it up. I'm going to attempt a crankcase flush, which the manual says to idle the engine with fresh oil for about 10 minutes at 1000rpm. Then drain it and fill to the correct level. I'll wait on the coolant flush until I get the hoses and new cap. I'm also waiting to start on the brakes until all those parts come in. I hope everything goes well and that the drums aren't too far gone, and that I can bleed the system correctly.
  13. Hi all, I went to my local NAPA this morning before work, and sure enough they had a battery for my car. It has been sitting on the shelf so long that it was under charged so I'm going back tomorrow morning with the old battery to exchange it, also getting a fan belt for $5! I really need to start going to NAPA more often, they always seem to have what I want. I appreciate all the help here. Tomorrow or soon I'm going to take out all the floor insulation as it's all wet and probably causing the floor rust. The real problem is the leaking window seals which I need to get taken care of. What can I use in place of the insulation before I get some real stuff, or is this insulation easy to find? It needs taken care of either way now that its covered from the rain nicely. I'll have to look around for a nice welder since I only have the cheap Harbor Freight mig welder. I haven't checked the rear floor pans but they look okay from underneath. Thanks JBP for the input, I know that the car does have seat covers on it now, I'm kind of afraid to take them off and see what's underneath for now. As for the battery situation, I'll see how a NAPA battery is for now, if I don't have any luck then I'll try Interstate, because I know the Optima batteries are expensive, but nice.
  14. I need to stay on top of these replies, lol. Looks like there's quite a lot of Interstate battery dealers around here, there's also a really good battery shop called Rexx Battery here in Springfield, and multiple farm stores around. I'm sure I'll find a good battery soon. As for the paint and VIN code Ben, thanks for clearing that up for me. I guess the car has been fully repainted at some point since the tag is painted over, would be cool to get the factory original paint back on it some day.
  15. Thank you 55er for the battery information, my napa is closed today for memorial day, I'll have to go when they open at 7 so I can go before work. I went to o'Reillys since they were open today but no luck. Thank you Aaron for looking up the VIN, it still looks like the green interior but the gray looks long gone. Thanks Buicknutty, it did crank slow but I think it's just because the battery is nuked. It took another battery and a jump pack to crank it over. As for the oiling, I have a little oil pistol I'll use to squirt some down the spark plug holes. 1953mack, you're saying that the VIN tag doesn't belong to this car at all, considering the last digit is a 4? Is the door tag supposed to be the same color as the body? And I'm not too sure on the paint question, it doesn't look like there's anything under it, but the inside of the trunk does look kind of grayish. The roof I can tell has been sprayed, there's remnants of black underneath it, but it still isn't the shell gray color. And lastly pfloro, the brakes are the first thing on my list, besides cleaning it and making it look decent first so I have a little more motivation. I plan on replacing and renewing everything related with the brakes, so that means new nycop brake lines, new hoses, new wheel cylinders, new shoes and hardware, and I'll see if I can get away with turning the drums since I have a lathe available. I'll also see if I can rebuild the master cylinder since I assume they aren't exactly available. Also I'm thinking now I wouldn't drive it EVERY day, maybe just once or twice a week I will tell you all that I'm getting a little nervous, since the more I look the more body rust I find. The floor is rusted through underneath the carpet on the driver footwell, the trunk has a few holes in it, and the door jambs all have a bit of rust. I'm nervous because I've never repaired rust and have little experience welding. I just hope I can do it myself or that its not too expensive to repair. The good thing is that the under side isn't too rusty, the frame is good and body mounts are good as well as most of the body, except the spots mentioned above. I'm also wondering what kind of material is under the carpets and where I can get it. It's kind of thick insulation, but it doesn't quite look like the insulation used under dashes and carpets in cars today. If its possible, I'd like to find a big sheet of it in bulk so I can cut it to size. Thanks for all the help everyone, it's still going to be a long process to get it driving properly.
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