Guest bofusmosby Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I went to the NAPA store last week, and had some paint mixed and had them put it in a spray can. I didn't need much, I'm restoring my instrument panel. Here's the question. After I paint the instrument panel, I'll be putting the graphics (numbers and such) on, and then applying a clear coat over everything. The person at the paint dept sold me a can of Krylon clear, but I am not impressed with the tests I have done.Can anyone recommend a good clear-coat spray paint, that will give a very shiny (wet look) when it is dry? I need something that will not yellow, and hold up to the heat inside the car. I know, I know, I should get a compressor and the works and do it correctly, but since money is an object, that is out of the question right now. Any and all suggestions and tips will be appreciated, and thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Clear coats, typically, have very little strength as far as UV damage, cracking, yellowing etc. The best bet would be the top coat used in basecoat/clear coat finishes. This does require semi professional equipment. I don't know of anything, in a spray can, that is going to do what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 If you are looking for real uv durability and top shine you should use a professional grade hardened clear coat. I believe that Eastwood has a system that allows you to basically fill a spray can with a catalized product. look in their catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 If you are looking for real uv durability and top shine you should use a professional grade hardened clear coat. I believe that Eastwood has a system that allows you to basically fill a spray can with a catalized product. look in their catalog.Great idea! I looked around, and this is what I believe I am looking for. If you would, take a look and see what you think. Here's the link.Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss for Painted Surface 11 OZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Another thought is to see a body shop near you and ask them to clear it for you. Most new cars are BC/CC and they are always painting something. They may be able to lay a coat of clear on it for next to nothing.Just a though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbirchmire Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I have used Eastwoods Diamond clear with good results. Spray on natural parts so they will not rust. Even works well on exhaust clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim_Edwards Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) One of the best UV resistant coatings around is a UV Protection Polyurethane. It's cheap so to speak and can be sprayed with one of those more or less throw away $5 sprayer kits available at just about any parts store that mixes paint.The big thing you may have to consider with what you are doing is a potential reaction issue between the clear you choose to use the dash paint and the nature of the graphics you are trying to protect. Weird things can happen and unless you are really careful with the selection of the clear you could end up with a wrinkle finished dash. If the dash was done with BC/CC the propellant in some spray cans may result in a disaster unless applied in multiple very light coats. Edited January 14, 2012 by Jim_Edwards (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomeroy41144 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Stay away from Spray Can Clear--it will not hold up over time. PP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Another thought is to see a body shop near you and ask them to clear it for you. Most new cars are BC/CC and they are always painting something. They may be able to lay a coat of clear on it for next to nothing.Just a though....You know Dale, that's a good idea! It would only take them 2 seconds to spray it on, and if they were doing a car for someone anyway, it really wouldn't be costing them anything. Of course I know they would want to be paid, which is only right. Well, as long as they aren't greedy.Jim, I have already considered that as a possibility. And yes, it could happen. Creating the graphics will be the hard part, so if it gets messed up, then I'll just have to start all over again. Once I have done the master graphics, copies will be no problem.The good thing is that where I will be painting and clear-coating will be behind the instrument panel glass. There will be no wear issues involved, just the light and heat.Pomeroy, is this a wear issue you are referring to, or just the wear from time only?When I do this work, I will document this in photos, and will post it here, so either others can use my idea, or know by my failure what NOT to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I have used eastwoods Diamond clear in a can on a bunch of stuff and been really pleased. I haven't had any failure yet or issues with the paint wrinkling. I've used it to top coat everything from original base coat paint to over original body color laquer in my inner Fenders on my 1936 Chrysler. Even over Rustoleum black. Probably not as good of course as the body shop clears I use on big stuff and body panels that are mixed with a hardener. Remember though what they originally used to paint it with from the factory. That's nothing like what is available today. You can about wipe that old finish off with alcohol. (I found out from experience) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomeroy41144 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 You know Dale, that's a good idea! It would Pomeroy, is this a wear issue you are referring to, or just the wear from time only?When I do this work, I will document this in photos, and will post it here, so either others can use my idea, or know by my failure what NOT to do.In my experience, the spray on stuff goes yellow after several years. I haven't used it in 20 years, so things might be different now. PP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franklinman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 We've had excellent results with the Clears from the PPG "Concept" line. If you want it done right this would be my reccommedation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I have no experience with the Eastwood product referenced, BUT in general you usually get the best results with paints from the same manufacturer's paint system than trying to mix-match something . . . unless trial and error have produced known results in this area.If the NAPA store mixed you some paint, then you can go back and ask for some clear from that same paint system. Use the Krylon for other areas.Also, it might be good to test the graphics with your paint system, the paint they're going on OVER and the paint you're going to put on OVER THEM. That chemical compatibility thing again.Just some thougths,NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I have no experience with the Eastwood product referenced, BUT in general you usually get the best results with paints from the same manufacturer's paint system than trying to mix-match something . . . unless trial and error have produced known results in this area.If the NAPA store mixed you some paint, then you can go back and ask for some clear from that same paint system. Use the Krylon for other areas.Also, it might be good to test the graphics with your paint system, the paint they're going on OVER and the paint you're going to put on OVER THEM. That chemical compatibility thing again.Just some thougths,NTX5467When I went and got the paint mixed, I asked them about what type of clear coat to use. It was the woman in the paint dept that mixed the paint that told me to use Krylon. I have used it before on other things, but with my own experience, I know that it doesn't leave a smooth and brilliant shine. I went ahead and bought a can of it there, but only because I was almost out of the can I had at the house. I tried it over the paint I had mixed, and I wasn't impressed. This was the very reason why I started this thread.I am aware of the possibility of my graphics may react with the clear-coat that I use, so I will definately be using those graphics on another piece of painted metal, so I can see if there is any kind of adverse reaction before I apply it to the instrument panel. I know that what I am doing might be a lot of work for nothing, but since all I have invested is a can of spray paint and the clear I need to get(along with the completed graphics), it's more time than anything else.I appreciate your comments for sure, and please, if you think of anything else, do not hesitate to post them. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coley Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I found out about this place tonight. It looks as though it has tough UV clear.Sculpt Nouveau - Patinas and Metal Finishes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Get your local body shop to shoot it with PPG 2021 Clear then sand with 1800 grit and polish if you want that deep dust free shine that will last. Test first to see if the clear wants to lift the graphics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim_Edwards Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I believe what you need will come from the world of sign painting and silk screening. PPG has a sub brand name that caters to those industries. Perhaps the most well known and oldest supplier of products for that industry is Dick Blick. You might find it strange but there is a KRYLON product that may be exactly what you need. It is KRYLON #1303 UV Resistant Crystal Clear. You'll probably have to get it from an Arts and Crafts type store, Artist supply, or maybe even have to order it from someone like Dick Blick. You are not likely to find it at your local WalMart, auto paint supplier, or big box home improvement centers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Thank you Jim. Yes, you're right, that would be the type to use. I believe that my first attempt will be to go to a local body shop, and see what they will charge me, if they can do it while spraying someones car. Maybe they'll have pity on me if I wear my holey T-Shirt.Thanks to all who have responded to this question. It has given me much food for thought. When I have it done, I'll let you all know how it went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenugent Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 talk to your local body shop&ask when the next time there going to mix 2 part clear-buy small amount from them-pot life should be about 3 hours or refrigerate till needed-last about 24 hours.buy airisol can called provall at your local home paint store or online.these two part clears are usually enamel based and shouldnt mess with lifting anything undernethe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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