franklinman

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Everything posted by franklinman

  1. Actually Greg sold the car to Jerry Greenfield (sp?) who then later sold it to the Indy Museum. We did the car back in '84-'85 and it looks like it's held up pretty well. I had stopped by the museum shortly after they acquired the car but it wasn't on display at the time. I inquired about it and a guy told me that they were having problems getting it running. I offered to send them copies of the information we had on the car (manuals, etc.) which I did, but I never heard anything further from them. Everyone else that had a hand in bringing the car back has passed away, including Greg, so I guess that I'm the last one living that had any hands-on experience with it. I was a good runner/driver when it was here, and I always thought it was a very handsome car. Glad to see it back on display.
  2. That is the first time I've seen this car since I painted it for it's then owner Greg Tocket. He later sold the car and it ended up in the Indianapolis Speedway Museum. I wondered where it ended up. I was a great car.
  3. I was pretty certain that the 1923 was different. So it looks like the 1924-25 and possibly early 1926 cars used the same shell. I was surprised to see the mention of the special cars having blue leather upholstery in the open cars. I've never seen anything but black in any original cars that I've looked at.
  4. What is the "automatic" windshield wiper and the motometer "with lock"?
  5. I also thought that the cowl lights indicated a "Special" series car, but I have seen a number of cars with them that did have painted shells. I also thought that plated bumpers were only on the Special series cars. I've owned a number of DB's over the years but all were the earlier "Low Radiator" cars, so this is the first time I've owned a later "High Radiator" car and I'm a little weaker in my knowledge of these. My car is pretty much all original, but has been painted, only once from what I have been able to determine. I can't find any evidence of plating on the shell. I know what you mean by the space behind the steering wheel! I get in and out through the passenger side door most of the time and fit OK that way. I do have the crank hole cover, it just happened to be out when the pic was taken. Definitely don't want to be sucking in the road dirt going down the road. Sounds like we're not too far from each other. I assume from your handle that you live near Hershey. I'm just outside of Dillsburg. Hope we'll run into each other somewhere this summer. Thanks for your input.
  6. I recently acquired a 1925 DB Roadster, my first of the high radiator, final series "slow-four" models. The radiator shell on my car, which I strongly feel is the original to the car, has the license plate bracket riveted on the bottom, just above the crank hole (see attached photo). My shell is painted, and in excellent condition. I would like to have a nickel plated shell for the car, to go along with the nickel bumpers, cowl & headlamp lamp rims, etc., but I would prefer to acquire another shell to plate and not have the car off the road while I wait the 2-3 months to have it done; and also retain the original shell too. I've been seeing different shells, some with and some without the license bracket. I've always assumed that the 1924-early 1926 shells were the same, but obviously that is not the case. Can anyone tell me when the license bracket was added, along with any other differences I should be aware of? Thanks, Bob
  7. Thanks for posting this information. I was able to contact the seller and make a deal for the whole lot. I just brought everything home today. He was great to deal with and everything went very smooth... well except for the rain all day.
  8. I'm sorry to have learned that John apparently passed away some time back. I spoke with him often years ago when I was active in the DB community, and sold him all of my left over parts once I'd sold my last DB car. I still ran into him at Hershey most years and always enjoyed talking with him. He was always very friendly and helpful to me. Since I've now gotten another DB I had thought about trying to contact him but just hadn't gotten to it yet. Does anyone know what happened to all of his DB cars, parts and literature. He had a lot of very interesting stuff I know.
  9. I don't believe the '21 steering wheel has an aluminum spider (mine was cast and painted black) and the wood rim was round and held to the spider with a large oval head wood screw at each spoke end. The later cars, I believe beginning with the 1924 cars, did have the aluminum spider with the ends of the spokes inletted into the rim, and the rim was more squared off, in profile.
  10. Not for the '66 Broncos, but was used on the later 1st series Broncos
  11. I've only been to the facility once, to check out a car for a client. I called beforehand to discuss the car with one of their representatives, just to get a basic feel for the car, and then set up an appointment to go down. Thank goodness it was only a little over an hour drive, because it was a complete waste of my time. The car was no where near the condition that it was represented to be in my phone conversation. I knew from a couple of photos they had posted that there were a few issues (what car doesn't have some?), but seeing it in person was a total disappointment! On well, it's not the first time I've experienced that, and it probably won't be the last either. They did have a lot of different vehicles on display and I probably should have take the time to look around, but I just wanted to get out of there at the time.
  12. Ford wasn't alone in this. Several examples come to mind, my 1907 Franklin and the T-Head Mercer among others.
  13. Locomobile, regarding your comment that "everything they sit on the counter is $100"`, let me tell you that very little that we buy only costs $100. In the 40+ years that we've been doing automotive restoration I have seen the prices for paint, and all related materials go through the roof. The last gallon of paint, a single-stage red, that I bought was almost $900, and that did not include the reducer and/or the activator/hardener! Yes, you can buy "cheaper" paint, and that is just what you're going to get too. I've had this discussion so many times that I've actually thought about printing up a schedule of cost(s) for all the various materials that are involved in doing a first class paint job. Most people just refuse to believe it though. I have actually given a customer a list of materials and told them to go to the distributor and order it themselves. When they get the prices, which are higher in most cases than what I quoted them due to the fact that we do receive a discount due to being a shop, and after they pick themselves back up off the floor, the general comments I get are either that it's a ripoff, or that they (the customer) can get the same thing cheaper elsewhere. I just tell them "that's fine, but you'll have to find someone else to use the stuff". Yes, today's modern paint materials are indeed expensive, much more than in years past. I can remember when a gallon of Sherwin Williams' best quality "Coach Black" enamel cost less than $30, and in my opinion it was better than much of what we can get today. Unfortunately, for any number of reason(s), those paints are no longer made, and in may cases are now illegal to produce/use in most places. But the fact is that if you want a job that looks right, and will hold up (with the right care) it takes time and materials, neither of which is cheap. Yes, some folks can do the work themselves, and save a lot of money doing so. But let me tell you that modern paint materials are different and you'd better have the knowledge of how they work, the right equipment and facilities, and most importantly the proper safety proceedures to follow when using them! This stuff can be very hazardous to your health if not properly handled! And no amount of money saved on a paint job is worth dying for! There are several threads going on currently here in the AACA forums that have touched on the current cost(s) of the various aspects of restoration work. Unfortunately, very little in our hobby is cheap anymore and I don't see it getting better.
  14. I personally love that word "recommissioning". Exactly WTH does that tell anyone? It has become an all too commonly used term with the auction crowd. To me it says that no one has any idea (or refuses to admit) what condition the car's mechanicals are in, and that it could require anything from an oil change, gas and a new battery all the way up to a full mechanical restoration. When you're dealing with a car of this type, those costs can, and often do, go through the roof! For my two cents worth, I would be very suspicious and fully expect the worst. YMMV.
  15. according to the Dodge Brothers production record, your car with a number of A651509 would have been built between May 20-27, 1926, which would be a 4-cyl. model.
  16. Hi Ed, I fully understand where you're coming from. With over 40 years of playing this game behind me, I pretty much agree with you. Trailers are mostly a PIA, but a necessary one in our hobby. I must say that the last Pace we had was probably the best of the lot. I put well over 150K miles on that rig and except for normal maintenance it never gave any real problems. Unfortunately our local Pace dealer closed and there isn't another that close by, although I still haven't ruled out buying another Pace product. I have heard that their overall build quality has gone down over the last 5-10 years so I'd definitely go have a look in person before buying. The Spartan thing came up when a local trailer dealer advertised one. Never heard of them before but it's not a bad looking rig, not bottom priced but not what a Pace would cost either. This trailer will not see near the use that our past trailer's have experienced and will be stored inside so I don't necessarily need the toughest thing out there. I'm no longer hauling commercially or transporting customer's cars. So I just was wondering if anyone had any experiences/opinions on the brand. Thanks again,, Bob
  17. Been doing some shopping around for a new enclosed car trailer. As most of you know the prices and options, build specs, quality, etc. are all over the place. In the past we've owned Wells Cargo, Pace, etc. This trailer will be for personal use only, no hauling of customer cars, lots of long trips, etc. I'm not concerned with the name, and I'm not looking to spend a fortune on fancy paint jobs and doo dads. What I am looking for is a strong, well constructed trailer, with a reasonable warrantee and good dealer/manufacturer support. Thus far for quality and pricing I've been somewhat impressed with the Spartan line, but haven't had any experience with them and don't know of anyone else that has had one either. Looking to hear from anyone that may have. Thanks
  18. Hey West, just noticed your post. I owned and toured a 1911, Mod. 33 Hudson Touring for several years back in the early 80's. I don't recall any "clips" like those shown in your photo on my car. To put the top down you first disconnected the front straps, pulled the cotter pins from the forward socket pivot pins and lowered them down to the bottom of the second socket base. Then moved the front sockets from the front props to the rear and lowered the top assembly to the rear top rests, and strapped it down, Pretty much the same as any other basic 2-man style top. Maybe someone did a little bit of redesign work on your friend's car. My car was sold to Lou and A. Mary Abrams and then onto somewhere in Alabama I think. It was a really nice driving car with one of the nicest clutches I've driven in a brass era car too.
  19. I'm not particularly sure that it's optimism at work in these situations. More I think it's most often the uninformed seller believing that the item is really worth their asking price and stubbornly thinking that everyone is trying to steal it for a lower price. I can't tell you how many cars that I've looked at, most often being sold by the owner's kids or executors, in which the asking price is completely out of reason, yet no amount of proof in the form of recent auction results, other similar cars being advertised, etc. can convince them that their car isn't worth the higher price. I once watched a very decent original Packard Caribbean literally sink into the ground over a period of 10+ years (before a storm finally collapsed the shed roof on top of it) because the owner firmly believed that the car was worth $50K (back in those days a realistic value would have been maybe $5K)! I drove by one day and seeing both car and the shed it was in gone inquired what happened to it. A neighbor told me what had happened and what scrap yard had hauled the car away. A quick call verified the car had been scrapped. So sad but true.
  20. Hi Jay, Have seen you posting for a bit now and just wanted to offer a suggestion. Those braces aren't that complicated to fabricate if you wanted. You just need access to a car with the parts on it to inspect for dimensions. I don't know where you are located but I'd be glad to let you take a look at my car if that would help. I'm sort of surprised that someone hasn't come up with a pair, or at least one side's worth, for you, but you just never know. I have found the roadster specific items are sometimes much more difficult to come by since getting my '25 Roadster, my first non-touring car DB, so that may be your problem here. PM me if I can help you and good luck with your Roadster too.
  21. I think quite often that it's either a matter that the seller actually knows nothing, or very little, about the item(s) that they are selling, or doesn't wish to make any concrete statement regarding the item that they could be held responsible for. I've run into this many times over the years, especially on ebay and when dealing with early/brass-era items. The other issue I run into is seeing some item that I would seriously be interested in, but the seller has a really unrealistic price on it, say 5-10 times it's real value. I know, I know... everyone has the right to value their stuff as they see fit, and I really do support that, but I also have the right to move on too, which I regularly do. But when you see the same item being re-listed for months ( or even a year) with the same outrageous price, you'd really like to say to them "You know, if you really want to sell this ???? maybe you'd find success if you did some research and found what similar parts are actually selling for." I actually did that once (politely and ONLY one time, and gave the seller some leads to where he/she could see the same things being sold for significantly less.). The response I received was filled with obscene profane and actually hostile statements so that was the last time I ever made any suggestions to a seller. Just a bit frustrating seeing a part/item that you or a friend could actually use just sitting. YMMV
  22. it's the same as the one on my '25 DB Roadster.
  23. Reminds me a bit of the "Compression Ball" tutorial that was going around back in the '70's and '80's!
  24. We've been using the Red-Kote for many years in every car we restore/service with absolutely no problems. It's the only gas tank sealer/liner I will use.
  25. The article seems to take every opportunity to diminish the car's condition with words like "rust bucket", "wrecked", "Poor Condition", etc. Certainly it is not "mint", but I would hardly call it a "rust bucket". I would find the car very interesting to see it given a sympathetic cleaning/servicing and put back on the road as is.