Guest saz Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I found this car in a shed, it has been parked since oct 5th 1970, now it is home with me. 42000 original miles and I am now the third owner. It is not bad shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 WOW! Nice score!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest R-ajax peterson Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Looks really great. Take more pics and keep us posted. Rick in NC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Great find. Congratulations. What does the interior look like? And does it run? Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I love this car. Can't wait to see the project progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 That is a GREAT looking car, just buff it out and you are done! I look forward to the rest of the story, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saz Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 thanks for all the feedback, i am not sure what to do with this old girl . A few people tell me these motors are not very reliable, i would like some thing i can drive with no worries, possible upgrade the drive train, still on the fence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 There is nothing unreliable about those engines. It lasted 75 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) As the owner and regular driver of a 36 Chevrolet, I can say that they are reliable and fun to drive. Just completed overhauling the engine in mine (over 120,000 miles), but with that low a mileage, yours should only need cleaning and perhaps checking bearing tolerances. Yours appears to be a Master series (although it has the painted headlight shells of a Standard model), so will be easier to drive in that it has a synchronized transmission--the Standard series was unsychronized. I think 50 mph is a comfortable cruising speed with the 4:11 rear axle--but others drive faster.It would probably be a good idea to drop the pan and thoroughly clean the oil pan and all the piping and troughs inside the pan--these sprayed oil onto the rods at higher rpms. It is important that they be clear. If you feel inclined while the pan is off, you might unbolt a rod cap and check the clearance--I use plastigauge. think around .001 thousandths is recommended if new, but I think up to .004 is ok. If too much clearance, remove shims as needed. But in all likelihood, the bearings will be fine, so I would probably put the pan back on without checking. If it you do hear a knock in the lower end once it is running, you can drop the pan check then--oil pan is held on with screws and easy to drop. The valves might need adjusting as well if they are too noisy--an easy job on these engines.It is a 3 main bearing engine--so many people consider the later 216 (with 4 mains) to be better--but the 207 engine is plenty reliable. A good bit of torque and will rev pretty well. My brother has a 34 Master coupe with I think now about 70,000 miles--still running excellently. They are an 80 hp engine.I will be glad to help with advice or guidance, for whatever little that is worth. But I would highly suggest you check the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America organization and consider joining or at least registering on the site. There a a number of indivduals with a lot of experience and knowledge specific to the earlier Chevrolets along with a willingness to share. They also can help locate parts.Best of luck with this car! Edited October 17, 2011 by 36chev (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 On further pondering, the other item you might look into is the cooling system for a car that has sat for a long time and also likely used water as opposed to an anti-freeze mix. There is a technique to backflush the engine and radiator to help remove rust and other deposits. One place that I found these engines to collect rust is in the back of the block--there's a freeze plug there only accessible when the engine is out. But again, flushing should get rid of most of this stuff.And to repeat, as others have said, these cars are very reliable--Chevrolet wouldn't have used this design for many years if it wasn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Mack_CT Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 saz, welcome to this forum. You have found what appears to be a very nice original, low mileage prewar car - in other words, something you do not stumble upon every day. I would think long and hard before changing the drivetrain - you can make this car as reliable as a modified car with proper attention to the mechanicals. Sometimes people use "reliable" interchangeably with "drives like my 2010 gomobile" - Just know that once sorted, it will drive, handle and stop like a prewar car, which is half the fun of it. If you choose to modify it, you will destroy the value of such a nice original, and at the end of the day non Ford hot rods usually do not bring the same money as Fords do. So you may be better off financially keeping it as original as possible. why not service it, and try it out before making any major changes. It should be relatively inexpensive to get this car ready for the road with such low miles. There is a ton of info about bringing a car back up after a long period of storage - check out the technical section for this and do some searching. Good luck with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 (edited) Steve says it very well. Unmodified, original 1930's cars are getting very uncommon today. And if you're looking have something more unique--an original unrestored or restored car is it! Most (at least that is my opinion....) 1930's cars are being hot rodded with the obligatory 350, so if you want to be different from the crowd, keep it original. And as Steve said, the charm of these cars is that you are driving a 1930's car. Plus you are preserving a piece of the past. When I want modern, I hop in my 2002 Ford.In addition, the brakes and ignition components on these cars are readily available from regular auto parts stores--at least those like NAPA. The brake cylinders, brake shoes, and hoses were basically the same up through at least 1950--still available in parts stores. This is the first year for hydraulic brakes in Chevrolet, which helps driveability. The points, condenser, disributor cap, rotor button, etc. were used for years and also available at local parts stores. So repairs and spares for these commonly needed items are easily and inexpensively gettable.So, as others have mentioned, service it to get it ready for the road and do cosmetics as desired. As Steve stated, it may very well be financially better to leave the car original. In all likelihood, very little is worn. Just cleaning and maintenance of the mechanics may be all that is needed. It would be much more expensive to replace the running gear with modern equipment. Edited October 19, 2011 by 36chev (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 How about this for reliability? Here is a link to two descriptions of 1936 Chevrolets going over 220,000 miles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Simmons Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 saz- I've owned a lot of these old Chevy sixes over my six decades. 30's thru 50's cars and trucks as well I can honestly attest to their durability and longevity. I've asked a lot from most of the ones that I've own and they have stood up to the tasks. With 42,000 on the one you have she should be just beginning to come into her own. The basic design of this motor was carried into 1962 with a few internal changes. I agree with the others who have encouraged you to keep it original. It is by far less and better spent money in my opinion not to mention "original" only happens once. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 The car lasted this long,don't change it.Old cars are a blast to drive.They are getting hard to come by,Looks like you have a nice one,keep us posted ,good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Mack_CT Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) Oh my, hopefully we have not lost saz to the "HAMB" forum.... Had a '39 Chevy with the same engine and it was a good runner with 80K original, I was the third owner and was able to trace it to my hometown, so I pretty much know the miles were correct, and the engine was untouched. Chalk selling that one up to the blunders column...Not sure how many miles you would want to do on the highway but otherwise, this seems like it would be a really great car to get back on the road as is. Edited October 20, 2011 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Harmatuk Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 The 36 Chevrolet coup is my all time favorite automobile.I built a model of a 36 Chevy gasser when I was about 8 years old. It was yellow with black fenders. The Gas Master.It was the center piece, on top of my dresser, for years.If I could get my hands on an unmolested barn find coup I think I would sell the farm...... and the kids..... dog......wife.Bill Harmatuk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grhouse Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hi, I've just recently bought a 36 Standard Coach and have started working on it. It runs great but needs some attention at that dreaded rear fender to body joint. There are a couple of rusted out places but I've got a good replacement piece to put in. The interior is not bad on it. I've just bought a new wiring harness because the critters got to this one and some of the wires are bare. Good luck with yours! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saz Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) you guys have not lost me I only check my computer every once in a while, great news as far as these engines sound like they will run for a long time. I am looking for a fuel pump right now. I think I have found most of the brake parts so this winter I will attemt to get it running, it still has antifreeze in the rad so the cooling system may not be too bad. Thanks for any suggestions, for right now I will head in the stock direction. Is this a low number production car or just due to it age there is not many left?thanks again hal Edited October 21, 2011 by saz (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Mack_CT Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Glad to hear you will try to keep it stock, saz. BTW - two parts sources that come to mind are "Chevs of the 40s" (despite the name, I believe his range covers your year) and PRO, or PR O'Conner from CT. It has been years, but he is still in business serving prewar Chevy or "stovebolt" Chevy owners since I was a kid. Great project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grhouse Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 It is hard to get parts for the 36 because it is a one year car. One of the best places I've found is Obsolete Chevy Parts down in GA. I've bought some stuff from Chevs of the 40s but most of their stuff misses 1936 and starts with 37. Are you looking for a new, rebuilt, or just a fuel pump to rebuild? I've got an extra one I took off an extra engine I have that is bad (someone pulled the head and left it out in the weather for a few years). :-(Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Sixty Years of Chevrolet by George Dammann states production numbers as follows: Master Deluxe Town Sedan-244131, Town Sedan-220884. Very nice car. I'm glad you opted to leave it stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest louver lou Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 That car is AWESOME CONGRADULATIONS on such a good find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saz Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Does anyone have any idea, on what this car is worth the way it sits. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) Glad to see that you are keeping it original! As for value, not sure. Excellently restored cars of this body style are roughly around $12,000 and maybe for a high side up $18,000 or so. Your car, even though a very good, low-mileage unrestored car, would be significantly less. It looks like your car may have some uniquely Canadian features that could effect value--maybe positively? For example, I've never seen the wheel spokes painted that way on the 36 (Dodge yes, but Chevy, no), but it appears to be original. The one visible hubcap looks unique, too. Hate to say it, but a rodder might pay more because they simply want to buy the body. When I've sold a few body /trim parts, it seems that the rodders are more willing to pay the premium price.The fuel pump is easily gettable. In fact, I think I have an extra NORS if you're interested. The 35-36 used the same fuel pump--AC 421 I think. Also, here is a link to an current ebay auction for one. With the one I have and the one in this auction, even though unused, it is old and would need the diaphragm replaced with a modern, alcohol resistant diaphragm. Complete rebuild kits are available, and I was able to simply buy the diaphragm by itself from one vendor. The snag with getting the diaphragm only is that it is secured between two sheet metal pieces by having the shaft bradded over. I've been told the only way to replace is to have a machinist, or maybe by very carefully filing, cut away the bradded-over part and leave enough to press/hammer and re-brad onto the original shaft.As previous posters have noted, Obsolete Chevrolet and other Chevrolet specialist vendors are a good resource. Obsolete Chevrolet wants $95.00 for the 35-36 fuel pump.And, it is possible that NAPA or other local car parts store might be able to get this for you. I haven't checked. If you give NAPA the original GM part number, they can try to match it up for you. The GM part number for the 35-36 fuel pump is 1523421. The plus here is that it should be rebuilt with a new, alcohol resistant diaphragm, but I would ask to make sure. It also helps to ask a part person willing to do more than simply search the computer database--sometimes it requires that they look in some of their older print catalogs.If you're interested in the fuel pump I have, let me know. Think I have two extra, but want to keep at least one as a spare to rebuild with a new diaphragm. Edited October 27, 2011 by 36chev (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) It is hard to get parts for the 36 because it is a one year car. One of the best places I've found is Obsolete Chevy Parts down in GA. I've bought some stuff from Chevs of the 40s but most of their stuff misses 1936 and starts with 37. Are you looking for a new, rebuilt, or just a fuel pump to rebuild? I've got an extra one I took off an extra engine I have that is bad (someone pulled the head and left it out in the weather for a few years). :-(GeneMostly but not completely true. The ignition and brake components were used for years and not hard to get. Any Carter W1 carburetor (and later Rochester single barrel Chevy carbs) will work with slight adaptations. The wheels were used from 35-36--but later ones will bolt up (Master series that is, Standard is more pesky with its "uniqueness"...). The 35-36 engine are basically the same--one item here that is different is the water pump. But you are right that most of the reproduction stuff seems to skip the 35-36. Sometimes the earlier years are available, and more commonly the 37 (when the 216 began) and up. But things like tail light lenses and rubber parts are reproduced. Obsolete Chevrolet is a good vendor, as are The Filling Station and I&I Reproduction. Edited October 27, 2011 by 36chev (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saz Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 So i have started trying to get this old girl running, Does anyone have a engine manual? I have found the side plate off the engine on the right side (just not bolted) the coil was off. I am trying to figure out where the wire at the bottom of the coil goes too -I think it goes to the distributer as there is a terminal that is empty on it. The fuel pump is off, I have found a new one, when you install is it like other chevs is there a rod you need to push up? I am sure I will have alot more question, thanks for all the support so far it really helps.Hal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Mack_CT Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Hal, I think your coil is simillar to mine (and a good friend's 39 Chevy) in that the lead on bottom of the coil comes from your ignition via "armored cable" and the wire on top should go to the distributor.A repro shop manual for that car should not be too hard to find, likely around $30. I would make that my next investment... Also, not sure if anyone suggested this yet, but join the vintage Chevy Club. There is nothing better than a marque specific club (ok, maybe this site! ) to get you the info you need fast.I would try to figure out why the side plate and coil were off, could be something simple, but just proceed with caution. One thing you may hear when starting at a cold, fast idle is a ringing like a bell, those Chevy motors would get piston slap on occasion and from what I know that is pretty much normal on a cold engine. Chevy experts will of course correct me - I know my '39 did this and it upset me at first, until I read a little is ok on a cold engine.Glad to get an update - and keep em coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Hi HalHere is something to lighten up your day...Have a good oneoldcar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saz Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 can someone tell me if this engine 206 has a fuel pump push rod or is run off something on the cam? Any info would help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Simmons Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Saz- The arm on the pump that looks like a crooked finger rides on a round eccentric on the cam shaft. If you have the pump off the motor you can work it by hand. If the diaphram is whole you will hear it working and be able to feel the pressure coming out of the outlet side of the pump. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saz Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Does anyone have a wireing scmatic for my 1936, there is numerous wires disconnected that I am not sure where they go. Also the linkage is all off of the carb, does anyone have some go pictures of the engine on both sides, I have a vac pot that gets it signal from the left hand exhaust manifold that i am not sure what it does. As well on the left side where the oil press line goes in it looks like the rod has some springs that should go on -where do the go and what for. Thanks once again for the helpI have made some head way, I have flushed the fuel tank and replaced the fuel line, hook up the new heater hoses and filled the block with Antifreeze. Installed new exhaust -old one was gone. Installed the coil and hooked most of the engine tubing all was off -I am sure what I have hooked up is correct. I have just started in rebuilding the brake system, the wheel cylinders are siezed. I have one appart now so I see how they work, it looks like no pitting in the first one so I will just rebuild. I am looking for a stock radio it was removed before I got it. Thanks Hal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Those do look like '36 Dodge wheels as the spokes are pretty heavy and the paint scheme. I thought Chevy used a flatter spoked wheel with a little different holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 How about this for reliability? Here is a link to two descriptions of 1936 Chevrolets going over 220,000 miles!At the rate this car accumulated its miles, it'll take another 325 years for this car to reach 220K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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