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Bill B

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Guest Jim_Edwards

I have used a 20 foot tow strap and a second pickup to get a non runner onto a trailer. With the trailer ramps positioned directly in front of the vehicle to be loaded and a tow vehicle parallel and as close to the trailer as possible hook the tow strap to the bumper support nearest the tow vehicle and to the rear bumper support of the tow vehicle nearest the trailer. Someone will need to be in the car to steer and maintain alignment on the trailer, as well as stopping the car at the desired position on the trailer. Just be sure the parking brake is set on the tow vehicle for the trailer before pulling the car up onto the trailer. Also take it very, very slow.

It's basically a jackass way of doing it, but it will get the job done.

Jim

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Guest windjamer

Not to be a smart a** ,but why not just buy a $30.00 come-a-long and pull it on the trl. Also One person stearing and a couple friends pushing (if it rools) you can push it on.:D

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Guest Jim_Edwards
Not to be a smart a** ,but why not just buy a $30.00 come-a-long and pull it on the trl. Also One person stearing and a couple friends pushing (if it rools) you can push it on.:D

Won't work! The upward angle of the ramps multiply the weight of the car so instead of attempting to push something like 3800 lbs up hill it's more like trying to pushing two to three times that weight. Same problem exists with a cheap come-a-long which hasn't a cable rated for the weight factors involved.

There is no replacement for having a winch on the trailer rated for a minimum of 8,000 lbs. Mine is rated for 10,000 lbs and even it has strained pulling a 5,000+ lb car up the ramps.

Jim

Edited by Jim_Edwards (see edit history)
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Guest windjamer
:) Jim I dont know what type trl. you have, but it must have some pretty steep ramps. I have a Harbor freight come-a long just like the one pictured above and have used it and a long chain MANY times to pull a vech. on a trl.
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I too have successfully used a come-a-long to load many vehicles onto a trailer. The funniest (now...not then) story that I have was a early 60's Ford with a heavy home built wrecker body with rusted frozen brake drums. Initially, I was pulling the trailer and tow vehicle to the wrecker but finally I broke the rusty drums loose on the old ford and then the load moved towards and onto the trailer instead of the other way around.

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Come-a-longs can be scary when they fail. If you value your fingers, do yourself a favor and get a lever-type chain hoist:

P1150164-vi.jpg

Better mechanical advantage, more refined apparatus, chain instead of a cable, so on and so forth.

Also, regardless of the situation, loading trailers is just like handling guns -- don't let anybody be in the path of your potential projectile. I see people walking behind cars going up the ramps like they're going to catch it if it starts rolling back, or standing at the front of the trailer where they'll get crushed if the heap you're loading with no brakes gets away and pinches them against the tailgate of the tow vehicle. There is always a safe option. Just use your brain and visualize for where not to be should something go wrong. There are lots of people out there moving heavy objects that have no business doing so and putting the ignorant in harms way in the process.

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Come-a-longs can be scary when they fail.

Yeah, so make sure they don't. I've loaded a bunch of cars with the P.O.S. Harbor Freight tinfoil come-along, and it was scary every time. I now have a $125, very large come-along that I got from Tractor Supply. Not a bit of drama. The cable diameter is about twice that on the unit shown in the link above. Note that the "8,000 lbs" quoted in the ad is a BS number that supposedly relates to the weight of the rolling load this come-along can pull on a FLAT surface. Obviously the force required to do that is only a small fraction of 8,000 lbs. (8K times rolling coefficient of friction). For a car of about 4,000 lbs. use a heavy duty come-along as a minimum. For anything heavier, the chain hoist shown above is very luxurious. Of course, you can also use a come-along with a snatch block so the cable is doubled, thus halving the load in each.

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Yeah, so make sure they don't. I've loaded a bunch of cars with the P.O.S. Harbor Freight tinfoil come-along, and it was scary every time. I now have a $125, very large come-along that I got from Tractor Supply.

Well, I should have been more clear. That to which I was referring is the P.O.S. Harbor Freight come-a-long referenced above because that seems to be what's so popular. There are better ones out there, like the one you bought, but they ain't $30 bucks. Of course, good-used is always an acceptable option and ones like mine can be had for pretty reasonable money -- I paid less than half for mine what you paid new for your cable type.

You're good to point out the deceptive load rating. In addition, there is likely no safety factor built into that even if the number is accurate. My chain hoist is "only" rated for 1-1/2 tons, but that's in terms of vertical lift, so numbers can be tricky (this is true when buying rotisseries, too).

Another advantage to the chain type is no spool, so if you have a long enough chain you can do it in one shot without having to block the car, unhook, and take another bite.

Point being -- don't sacrifice safety for dollars. One trip to the emergency room would easily buy a new Warn electric winch many times over.

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Can't count on fingers and toes the number cars I have pulled onto my trailer with a come a long. A couple years ago finally finally broke down and bought a wench. How many have I pulled onto my trailer since I bought the wench. ONE

Using a come a long is fun and excellent exercise. Figuring out how to swap out the chains, duct taping the hook to keep it from slipping off, jack up the front of the trailer to lower the rear and all that are little tricks that comes with time. Anybody can wench a car up. ;)

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First, best choice, join the Auto Club and let them pick it up.

If you have to do it yourself the comealong will work but get a good one, or if you must use the cheap ones get two. I find it best to use two anyway because the load tends to slip back a few feet when you let go to get a new hold. This will be self explanatory when you try it.

Take along an air pig, 12V air compressor, and possibly some spare tires. Pump up the tires good and hard and it will roll easier. If the brakes are frozen try beating on the center of the wheel with a big hammer. A few planks are always handy to put under the wheels. Also a good jack, wheel wrench, penetrating oil, and the usual hand tools. Wooden blocks to block the wheels as you pull it up. Block the wheels as you go and keep everyone well away from the cable just in case and you should have no trouble.

It's all according. If it has been sitting on dirt for years you may have to jack it up, change the wheels, put planks under it and work on the brakes just to get it to move 1 inch. If it is in a garage with cement floor it could practically load itself if the driveway has a slight slope.

It's always best to be prepared for anything then feel relieved when it goes easy.

By the way when you pick it up don't forget to ask for the owner's manual, repair manual,ownership, spare keys, spare parts etc. There is usually something and it's a lot easier to ask while you are there than think of it later.

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Can't count on fingers and toes the number cars I have pulled onto my trailer with a come a long. A couple years ago finally finally broke down and bought a wench.

So, does SHE operate the come-along for you? What does your wife think of the wench? :eek:

Oh, you mean a WINCH. :rolleyes:

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Guest Jim_Edwards
:) Jim I dont know what type trl. you have, but it must have some pretty steep ramps. I have a Harbor freight come-a long just like the one pictured above and have used it and a long chain MANY times to pull a vech. on a trl.

The ramps on my trailer are anything but steep and I can assure anyone that not even half a dozen guys pushing on '62 Starfire, '57 Cadillac Eldorado, or '58 Mercury will push any of them up onto the trailer. Been there and tried that, which is why the trailer sports a winch.

My trailer can be seen here. It's identical to the black one with the ramps pulled out, except I have a wench installed at the front rail. I also had five feet added to the overall length. As you can tell the angle is not steep.

Deluxe Steel Floor Car Hauler | 12CHS - 22' x 83" | Diamond C

Jim

Edited by Jim_Edwards (see edit history)
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This question has certainly caused a lot of discussion. There are many ways to do this. It is obviously best to prepare for the worst case scenario and be prepared and equipped for multiple methods.

Here is one other idea. If the engine is not stuck and the car has a manual transmission, it might be relatively easy to use an extra battery and jumper cables or a jump box and simply use starter to "drive" the car up onto the trailer.

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Here is one other idea. If the engine is not stuck and the car has a manual transmission, it might be relatively easy to use an extra battery and jumper cables or a jump box and simply use starter to "drive" the car up onto the trailer.

By the time he lets the smoke out of the starter and has to have it rebuilt, he could just pay a rollback! :D

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I have used a heavy come along to pull dozens of Crosleys onto my trailers. That's a bad example, I know but I have also used it to drag a 72 Chevelle with a locked up rear onto the same trailer. It is a little slow but very safe. Please make sure the capacity of your come along is heavy enough(ie you may have to go to a chain based unit) and the attachment point for pulling against is also sufficient to handle the dead weight of what you are pulling. Also make sure you take sufficient tie down straps to fasten the vehicle to the trailer. Always use at least 2 front and 2 back tie downs.

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That first puller shown,,one like that requires a finger to push something to go DOWN,,,and CAN pinch forcefully the finger,,,,not GOOD,,,On another occasion,,a factory clamp came off a cable and cast loose a Stanley sedan,,We captured the runway in time but it was close,,,,and I canceled my stress test for Monday,,,,I once had a chain cum-a-long worked fine,,,all the way up,,,but would NOT come down,,,Long story,,but while not in use the chain had got a 1/4 turn twist and up close it would bind enough to stop the return trip,,If fleamarketing,,,watch for "Yale+Town,,with a short handle,,called "TUGGIT",,works great and is smooth going down,,,AS IN,lowering a block over pistons,,HAHA,,,The big one w the shift lever on the handle is good too, Chizolm and ?? i think,,too cold to go look,,,,,Both of these can be pricy,,,but it pays to check,,Good luck and be careful,,,Ben

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Guest Jim_Edwards
I have used a heavy come along to pull dozens of Crosleys onto my trailers. That's a bad example, I know but I have also used it to drag a 72 Chevelle with a locked up rear onto the same trailer. It is a little slow but very safe. Please make sure the capacity of your come along is heavy enough(ie you may have to go to a chain based unit) and the attachment point for pulling against is also sufficient to handle the dead weight of what you are pulling. Also make sure you take sufficient tie down straps to fasten the vehicle to the trailer. Always use at least 2 front and 2 back tie downs.

To be absolutely certain the car is secure I use at least one chain front and rear in addition to two 2,000 lb rated ratcheting straps both front and rear crisscrossed in order to eliminate sidewalk and bounce. Road surface variants can provide some rather interesting experiences if towing a great distance. What you feel in road surface variants when towing a car on a trailer is totally different than car or pickup without a load on the trailer.

Jim

Edited by Jim_Edwards (see edit history)
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When using a chain I always put a bolt through with washers,,,,as once in a while the chain hook will get loose enough to come off,,Ben

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Whats the union hourly rate of that rig,,,but there seems to be too much slack in that front chain,,and whats holding the rear up,,,Ben

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I have an 8k/lb winch mounted inside a toolbox, mounted to the front of the bed. It's hidden and I can use it to load/unload cars alone. If you load more than a couple cars a year, it's worth it. When a friend's vehicle breaks down in -0 weather, you'll be glad it's there. The winch makes ALL the difference. To uload, I run the cable to a pulley mounted at the back of the dovetail, then to the front ofthe car. Set the e-brake (or adjust the brake shoes to drag) and then the winch pulls it off the trailer under control. I always have 2 to 3, 4x4s layed out about 12" apart as a runaway stop, just in case.

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About 20 years ago I got tired of trying to move dead stuff with a Come-a-long. I stumbled on a 1974 Dodge W-300 Wrecker. It sports a twin spool Holmes 480 winch set up. It is rated for 18,000 pounds of pull. The dead iron I've retrived with that, you would be weeks moving with hand bars and Come-a-longs. Wheels locked up? How about tracks locked up? No problem, just drag it on home. Dandy Dave!

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Hello! guy's

I have been read the all above comments and posting....i have got very interesting and knowledgeable information...Thanks you guy's..................

Edited by Evaner (see edit history)
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