Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models

[Roger Zimmermann]

Only some little progress since the last time. Up to now, I had only half the rear wheelhouses done; it's time to make the second halves, the ones towards the fender. Again, not an easy task because nothing is definitively stable, except the floor.

After much trial and error, the RH wheelhouse is complete. It's not yet soldered to the floor because it will first be soldered to the fender and then to the floor. It's not the way it should be done but I need some space to solder the wheelhouse to the fender and it's easier this way. Once this step will be done, the fender assembly can be soldered to the floor.

[jfreakofkorn]

all i can say is like, wow ....

[Roger Zimmermann]

The rear fenders are slowly progressing. The LH one is almost finished with the exception of the "B" pillar. It does not mean that I have no more work on it, on the contrary! The shape between the top of fender and the trunk aperture must be "massaged" with a small hammer to have its definitive shape.

First, I have to bring the RH fender in the same condition of completion.

[Roger Zimmermann]

After finishing the top of the RH rear fender, I did some brackets for the rear, where the fenders will meet the floor's rear rail. I had to take in consideration the possibility to attach the opening LH rear lamp for the fuel filler. Then it was the turn to the B pillar. As this part is not straight I had some difficulties to imagine how the many pictures I have could be translated in a small piece of brass. As you can see on the picture, the holes for the striker are already done as it easier to bore them before the fender is attached permanently to the floor. Like the original car, there will be a plate on the back side of the pillar allowing for striker adjustment.

Some inner structure is to be added to that fender; the additional parts will be soft soldered on the fender when it will be soldered to the floor.

I still have the intention to include electric windows; I may have a space problem for the rear quarter ones as usually small electric motors with the suitable reduction are taking some valuable space. I may locate the motors into the recess under the rear seat and operate the window lift mechanism with a flexible shaft. I'm not yet ready to install the windows, but some advance planning cannot hurt...

[SiliconS]

I still have the intention to include electric windows;

Roger, you can still amaze with these updates, even though I have come to expect miracles from you during this project. I'd forgotten about the electric window plan...

Please never imagine that nobody is still interested in this thread. Every time you post I revisit it in wonder. Please do continue.

[unimogjohn]

Roger, great work. But can you give us some perspective on the size of the entire car now? Perhaps a pic with something known, maybe it sitting on top of a magazine or even your hand?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Please never imagine that nobody is still interested in this thread. Every time you post I revisit it in wonder. Please do continue.

Thanks! If I see the number of views, I have the impression that there is still interest, even if it takes a long time to really see something new or different. I will continue!

[Guest lordairgtar]

this not just building a model car, but in fact a miniturized assembly process of a real car.

[Roger Zimmermann]

this not just building a model car, but in fact a miniaturized assembly process of a real car.

You are right; most operations and processes are similar to a real car assembly. During my active life I was involved in the automotive industry and I restored 3 Cadillacs...so I have a rather good idea how a car is assembled.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger, great work. But can you give us some perspective on the size of the entire car now? Perhaps a pic with something known, maybe it sitting on top of a magazine or even your hand?

Oups John

I missed this comment. Next time I will do it; I forgot this trick all the time, except maybe for small parts.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Finally, I had to modify the schedule of the operations. I wanted to solder the outside wheel houses to the fenders prior to solder them to the floor, but the kinematics (if the word is correct) or the movements needed to remove or install the wheel houses was different than the one for the fenders. I intended also to make the gutter for the trunk lid before to solder the fenders to the floor as well as the filler between the rear window and trunk aperture; they will be done later.

There is no return as the fenders are finally soldered to the floor; I had enough to play with screws to temporary attach them to the floor just to discover that all corrections to the general shape I'm attempting to do are ineffective. If there is a major mistake (Sometimes I'm discovering them by inadvertence), I will have to live with!

To render the pictures more attractive, I temporarily put the assembly on the frame. Now, it's almost looking like a car!

The next steps: the filler panel, the gutters and the reinforcement at the B pillar.

[Landman]

Still watching, my jaw still resting on the desk.

[Scotts_DG8]

Me too Roger, it's amazing to look at. And even though there is much much more to come the combined shot of (frame/floor/fenders) puts all your efforts into a totally different perspective. It's hard to imagine how much work and patience goes into your model, it's got to be a lot harder then a total real restoration. Scott...

[Sweepspear]

Really starting to take shape now! Love it!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Pat, Scott and Dale! I was sure that a picture of the floor/rear fender assembly would creates more attention.

You are right Scott: to restore a car (I did 3) requires less work than a model with such details; however, once finished you can sit and drive a restored car. The model can just go behind glass!

[Scotts_DG8]

Roger, having a drivable vintage automobile at the end of a restoration without question has many positive points. The beauty of the model though is the gas, insurance, storage and maintenance doen't exist and in most cases can be admired by any/all visitors without a trip to a garage or show. I would also believe that the total costs of the model are a fraction of the cost of a total restoration of an actual vehicle. After following along with you and your creation I've pretty much thought that at some point in my life I sure would like to attempt a scale model along the lines of the ones you have done. I'm pretty sure it would apease my need to craft/build things. I've also learned much too just following along and will continue to do so until the project completion which I am looking forward to along with many others here. Scott...

[Roger Zimmermann]

Hemmings Motor News did me an honour by publishing a report in Hemmings daily. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2013/11/06/continental-mark-112-roger-zimmermans-amazing-scratchbuilding-skills/?refer=news

[Landman]

Roger, I think you meant Hemmings was honored to have your project in their pages.

[Guest Greg Birky]

Incredible work, Roger!!! The link to this thread was shared on a model car forum. I have joined this forum so I can follow your progress. I love the incredible detail in your models and I completely understand the amount of work required before a part can be made. I look forward to watching as the years pass. Greg

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger, I think you meant Hemmings was honored to have your project in their pages.

Well Pat, it's another point of view!

[Roger Zimmermann]

I look forward to watching as the years pass. Greg

Thanks Greg! At least, you are not afraid by the construction's duration!

[Roger Zimmermann]

One of the logical continuation step was to do the upper back panel which is located between the rear window and trunk aperture. A nice part, quickly done? Nice maybe, but complex. As you can see, nothing is straight, even the top suface is curved towards the rear window.

The lower channel for the rear window is integrated to that panel, as well as a support for the package tray panel. That support does not look like that in reality, but once the package tray is installed, nobody will notice that I did it my way.

After a week of work, it's soldered to the rear fenders. As you can see, this part is rather narrow; it may be the reason why the first cars had unconventional trunk hinges. I'm glad I choose the first design for the hinges as the stability from this panel is questionable.

I did also the gutter for the RH fender; the LH is not yet done as I have first to fabricate and attach the pocket at the tank filler; the gutter would prevent an "easy" installation.

[Roger Zimmermann]

No! It's way too early. However, I had to put them on the floor to check to upper line. It's the latest moment to bang the rear fenders if the car would look like a banana. Fortunately, it will not be necessary!

I'm glad I did the pocket for the fuel filler before the LH gutter as this later part is hiding the view. I added also some reinforcements between the rear fender and wheel houses; now there is also more stability as the upper part of the fenders cannot flex anymore.

The final task with the rear fenders is the flange at the quarter windows and roof. This is a surface which is difficult to make properly; there will be some tin to hide imperfections.

[Laughing Coyote]

Roger,

Your work is incredible!! You are truley a craftsman. You should do a 1961 Mercury Meteor 800 for your next one??

Just kidding. Love the workmanship. Keep up the great work.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Well...As I finished the upper flange from the rear fenders, I had to see if the roof which was previously done would fit! It will not be permanently soldered until more inside parts are added as well as the windshield posts to support the roof's front.

Now, with what should I continue? With the doors, which imply the door's structure, hinges and "A" pillar or should I go with the difficult to shape trunk lid with the hinges?

You may vote, I will follow the greatest number of opinions, if any...You have 2 or 3 days, the time I'm finishing the reinforcement at the quarter panels.

[MCHinson]

Roger,

Like everyone, I am still amazed at your skill. I have no idea why you think we would have any idea which you should do next, but when I am working on a project, I like to do the hardest part first so the job gets easier as I go further. So, I would vote for the "difficult to shape trunk lid with the hinges".

[Roger Zimmermann]

So, Matthew, it's 1:1 for the moment. From another forum, the viewer would like to see the doors attached to the floor.

The reason why I'm asking? To get some feed-back and what would be more spectacular from your point of view. You saw the rear fenders for some weeks now; to see something more forward towards the firewall could renew the interest. Anyway, all is open for now.

[SeventhSon]

I vote for the trunk, Roger. Dunno why - I guess it's just to see the car materialize from the rear to the front. Amazing work!

[Luv2Wrench]

I think you should make it run and drive and then train a small animal to drive it around.

[Scotts_DG8]

Roger,

I would agree with the trunk lid as it really is the most logical progression and it for the most part finishes the main body panels in the rear of the car. It's was looking good before but with the temporary top placement it gives a lot to the body lines, looks great. Scott...

[Laughing Coyote]

Roger,

What type of material are you using for casting your parts? I need to reproduce clear plastic inserts for my gunsites on the front fenders. I have two of the originals that are in pretty good shape and I can use them to make a mold. The car requires two per fender. I figure I would ask an expert on this one.

Thanks

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger,

What type of material are you using for casting your parts? I need to reproduce clear plastic inserts for my gunsites on the front fenders. I have two of the originals that are in pretty good shape and I can use them to make a mold. The car requires two per fender. I figure I would ask an expert on this one.

Thanks

Martin, I'm afraid I cannot help a lot here. I don't cast parts, with the exception of the tires. Can the gunsites be repoduced with Plexiglas? As I don't know the shape from your parts, I just can have a very generic answer.

A CNC machine can also do wonders if the shape is irregular.

[Roger Zimmermann]

I think you should make it run and drive and then train a small animal to drive it around.

And do a show in a circus?

[Roger Zimmermann]

The number of votes was not overwhelming, but interesting. This morning, I just asked the same in the French forum I'm also showing the construction. I had, up to now, 3 votes for the doors and 7 for the trunk lid! Thank you to all who took the pain to vote and explain why they choose this or that solution!

In between, I finished the B pillars. Prior to solder the parts, I did holes to attach the side window modules and arm rest to the structure as such holes are almost impossible to do after assembly. I'm surprised at the rigidity added by that reinforcement.

[Roger Zimmermann]

This is democracy: as the majority wanted me to do the trunk lid, I began it. I knew that it would no be easy; so I had no illusion that the first try would be a success and it was not. I tried with a soft brass and did probably the error to shape most of the hump. No matter what I did, the shape was not what I wanted, so I discarded the first try:

I took some half hard copper and was more cautious about the hump, shaping just its beginning. When heated, the copper is getting real soft but the persuasion with just the eyes is not sufficient to shape the metal! A pushing with a suitable tool was indeed rather effective; just the sides had to be shrunken. A small slice of copper finished the hump by silver soldering:

The final work was to attach the center of the hump. This time, I choose to use brass to have some rigidity in that lid. The end result is not too bad; it must now be trimmed to suit the trunk's aperture. At this stage, I must say that the copper is nice for complicated shapes but not friendly to work with files or other tools; I still prefer brass.

I will probably begin now the hinges because they have to be bolted on a rigid surface at the lid. This will be obtained with the inner structure which will be more or less dictated by the hinges.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I wanted to begin the hinges, I noticed that I'm missing important dimensions. I tried to "solve" my sloppy measurement by doing one hinge with cardboard. I may have it right: here when the trunk is open:

and here with the lid closed:

However, I'm not sure at all about the whole thing. As it will require some precise work, I prefer to wait to have a real hinge on my desk. The Mark II owner offered to remove a hinge from one of his parts car for ease of copying; I will use that opportunity; however, I will probably have to wait spring 2014 to get that hinge.

As a consequence, the doors are now actual!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last few days I did the front, bottom and rear sides from the doors; the first one went not too bad but the second one will need a rework because it will interfere with the A pillar. A small error here, a tolerance there and, when all is added, there is usually a problem.

Then I trimmed the forward part from the A pillar and began with the hinges. This morning, I soldered on the A pillar the channel on which captive nuts for the hinges are soldered. These channels were ready since more than 18 months! I had to wait for the holes location to solder them on the structure.

The next job will be to do the hinge's parts which are bolted on the doors. Fortunately, all hinges are identical; some simplicity is sometimes welcomed.

[keiser31]

Wow!!

[SeventhSon]

Wow is right!

[Landman]

And then some!