39BuickEight

1939 Buick Special restoration

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Kemp's Rod and Restoration

47958 Lower Point Mills Rd, Lake Linden, MI 49945

Sandy & Dan

906-482-5656

kemp@up.net

www.exploringthenorth.com/kemp/replacement/parts.html

Unfortunately the site says 1937-38 Buick, which is different than 1939, I guess. But how much different?

Edited by West Peterson (see edit history)

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Kemp's Rod and Restoration

47958 Lower Point Mills Rd, Lake Linden, MI 49945

Sandy & Dan

906-482-5656

kemp@up.net

www.exploringthenorth.com/kemp/replacement/parts.html

Unfortunately the site says 1937-38 Buick, which is different than 1939, I guess. But how much different?

I have no idea personally what the difference would be. I'm sure they do if they are making the pieces. Thanks!

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during sandblasting we found the other place on the frame where the serial # is actually stamped in---a poor stamping job, but you can tell it matches the tag up front (33541271):

59a17c3daee3e_1-15-10007.jpg.28817f42aea1deeee8a3fda83509aec7.jpg

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

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thank you! with one more nice day of weather we'll have all the blasting done on it, but I can tell by the forecast, it may be a while.

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

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I think I just gave away my '39 Special as of today and am sending it to Germany. I say think, because I don't have all of the applies and oranges in my basket yet.

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I hope you get some primer on that frame before it starts to rust again

Vern

it was only like that long enough to take pictures

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some pics of some parts Dad has been blasting and priming over the past week (engine parts, springs, front end parts, middle of the torque tube)...

 

 

59a17e36a3c1e_2-28-10002.thumb.jpg.a1721e1edbf5d8d35dcfa36912fdd987.jpg59a17e359f606_2-11-11002.thumb.jpg.10de3e913489bd6544bd91c9673f65fa.jpg59a17e3363236_2-11-11001.thumb.jpg.dc2a8d371eedc0bf52b01f20d372065b.jpg

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

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You're certainly going to have one of the finest '39 Buick Special's in the World. As a longtime lover of 1939 Buick Special's who has owned at least a dozen of them, you're doing my heart good.

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Howdy Billy,

Good lookin' work done so far. I just joined the forum about a week ago or so and thought I should mention the woodgraining that you may elect to have done down the road.

If you haven't found someone to do it yet i thought I should mention that I produce a very fine woodgrain along with my primary profession of trim straightening and polishing....just sayin'

Looks like things are gettin' done right........good job.

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Thanks for the comments everyone! We got into the hard to reach areas of the frame today, and the trailing arms (at least that's what I call them :)):

before:

59a17fbb99246_3-6-10003.thumb.jpg.53594620f8d6731164e8e84e9458c280.jpg

 

after:59a17e5e56251_3-6-10004.thumb.jpg.639384100753d13985193f81be582006.jpg

 

 

inside the frame:

 

59a17fd196fd6_2-28-10001.thumb.jpg.8d7f652508f613b8530748a17c095de0.jpg

59a17e8a3314f_3-6-10011.thumb.jpg.bdba7d141c330efc725fba9b126d268b.jpg

 

 

3-6-10 006.jpg

 

 

 

 

3-6-10 003.jpg

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

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the handy dandy frame sandblasting setup, now if it would get above 20 degrees for a day:

1-6-10-2.jpg

Your oil barrels look nicer than my cars. :P:p:p:p

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Hi, really nice and thorough job you're doing. The car will last another hundred years with your careful work. Have you tried rust killers? In seams and any surface rusted parts that abrasives won't reach you can use a dilute mix of phosphoric acid. The more liquid the better. The acid converts the rust into something that's no longer rust. (most of the 'rust convertors' on shops shelves you'll notice contain 30% or so of that acid)

Also, remember to keep your metal parts warm before painting as metal absorbs a small amount of moisture and even if you paint over that the rust will return to haunt you..or the next generation.

All the best.

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out of curiosity, can anyone tell me if my frame is the short one or the long one?

updated pics coming soon, nothing too crazy

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Yours is a long frame as your image

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee222/wellinghurst/antique%20cars/12-28-09-2.jpg

Short frames end over the rear springs. On the long frame the heavy steel frame goes to the back bumper

In the combined image below your long frame is compared to a short frame. Not that this short frame does not the brace over the mid frame. The brace was an early Buick fix. A full lenght frame was the final fix

post-51977-143138335912_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1939_buick
images added (see edit history)

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I never knew about the different frame until yesterday. Interesting. I'll be posting some transmission photos next. I'm curious now that the correct color of it is not clear.

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transmission is cleaned and painted. There was some discussion on the proper color and there were some saying gray like the engine, some black, and some not painted at all, so I went with black.

 

 

after:

 

 

1-28-11 007.jpg

1-28-11 005.jpg

 

before:

 

12-12-09 004.jpg

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

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Hey guys, I am watching this thread with a great deal of interest. I have a '39 46C that was body finished in the late '70's, new paint,top - wrong fabric - new uph - again not correct fabric. Anyway, I couldn't get it to start last Fall and found that the fuel line was rusted and sucking air, not fuel. So I have stripped the underside of the body of brake and fuel lines, exhaust etc. Now getting close to having painted the floor pan and frame. My cleaning is done with wire brushes, scrapers and acid itch. Not too much fun at this point. Your posts give me encouragement! I'll be watching. Wes, thanks for your lead, and to the gentleman in TX on woodgrain (My dash was never redone).

Ccar

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I hope you're using some type of breathing apparatus, not just the hood you're holding. Sandblasting can/will affect your lungs in a big way!!!

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