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1939 Buick Special restoration


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Hi, really nice and thorough job you're doing. The car will last another hundred years with your careful work. Have you tried rust killers? In seams and any surface rusted parts that abrasives won't reach you can use a dilute mix of phosphoric acid. The more liquid the better. The acid converts the rust into something that's no longer rust. (most of the 'rust convertors' on shops shelves you'll notice contain 30% or so of that acid)

Also, remember to keep your metal parts warm before painting as metal absorbs a small amount of moisture and even if you paint over that the rust will return to haunt you..or the next generation.

All the best.

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  • 2 months later...

Yours is a long frame as your image

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee222/wellinghurst/antique%20cars/12-28-09-2.jpg

Short frames end over the rear springs. On the long frame the heavy steel frame goes to the back bumper

In the combined image below your long frame is compared to a short frame. Not that this short frame does not the brace over the mid frame. The brace was an early Buick fix. A full lenght frame was the final fix

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Edited by 1939_buick
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Hey guys, I am watching this thread with a great deal of interest. I have a '39 46C that was body finished in the late '70's, new paint,top - wrong fabric - new uph - again not correct fabric. Anyway, I couldn't get it to start last Fall and found that the fuel line was rusted and sucking air, not fuel. So I have stripped the underside of the body of brake and fuel lines, exhaust etc. Now getting close to having painted the floor pan and frame. My cleaning is done with wire brushes, scrapers and acid itch. Not too much fun at this point. Your posts give me encouragement! I'll be watching. Wes, thanks for your lead, and to the gentleman in TX on woodgrain (My dash was never redone).

Ccar

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got all the suspension parts in this week, it's mocked up without all the bushings for now, should have all the suspension done this weekend, put some fluid in the shocks and they work like a charm now...had one leak, but tightening a bolt fixed that, then it's time to figure out the Torque Ball stuff:

 

 

 

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Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

 

put the axles back in today, and mocked up the torque tube/driveshaft, found out it has the standard 4.44:1 gears with 40/9 teeth and the white paint on the right axle, anybody know what the red and green paint on the left axle mean?

 

 

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Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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got the transmission on, the rear bearing seal was a pain to get on the middle shaft, but we got it eventually, got the wheels and steering shaft/gear out of the shed to sandblast next, Dad has been touching up the paint on the frame too since we scratch it every time we put something on :

 

 

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The transmission and entire driveline assembly is so much tighter now in terms of overall movement.Before we had to put 2x4's under it to keep the transmission from flopping around, now it stays put all by itself.

 

 

Putting the jackstands under the lower arm in the front didn't budge the suspension at all. I'm guessing once the engine is in it will squat a little :)

The entire rear end is a little to the right, but when we put weight on it, it straightens out. If you look at the old photo, it's a little to the right in that one too. I guess it does that when the springs are extended, geometry I guess. Of course it will all need to be adjusted when it is under full weight, but we are still trying to get it halfway straight right now.

 

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now:

 

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Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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If I ever need an operation I would like to have it done in your shop....

Good gawd man.

Very nice work, I am enjoying your very rapid progress through your project.

Well, the progress has been pretty good this winter, we have more done that we thought we would have done so far. It will come to a screeching halt when it warms up and the weekends will turn to fishing.

Dad likes to keep his shop clean. It does make it easier to work, that's for sure.

Today we disassembled the timing chain and found it was put together wrong, according to the manual anyway. The car couldn't have been running quite right.

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Dad likes to keep his shop clean. It does make it easier to work, that's for sure.

.

This is a very important statement....

I found a loss of drive towards my project for a while, always dinking around and fiddling with all different things......getting nothing substantial done. My shop was a mess....tools everywhere, bench loaded and unusable and most importantly THE DUST! I sanded the car down and it layered everything! It wasn't until I cleared my bench, the floor and the dust from sanding that I was able to start getting some real work done again. I even scrubbed the floor as it does have a nice epoxy coating.

I doubt I will have that showroom garage like your Pop's but I try now to keep it neat to keep it enjoyable.

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Billy, in what way was the timing chain put together wrong?? Inreresting!

Agree with others, fantastic garage and work.

Ben

According to the manual, the 2 links with the washers line up with the marks on the gears. Well, the side facing out only had 1 washer link, and it wasn't lined up on either gear. The side with 2 washers was facing in, impossible to see. Unless they lined it up and just put it on inside out. It certainly didn't look like the picture in the manual.

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Today we disassembled the timing chain and found it was put together wrong, according to the manual anyway.

That's interesting !! Did you take a pic ??

The genius that did my engine put the timing chain on totally wrong.

Thankfully I picked it up before I put the head back on otherwise I would have had smashedvalveatosis.

Danny

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Danny, no photos, just seems to have been backwards (I don't see how that part would matter???) and off one tooth, if you can imagine that?

Anybody know off hand if this chain on eBay fits my 248?

40 1937 1938 1939 1940 1941 Olds Nos GM Timing Chain - eBay (item 220722611132 end time Feb-08-11 09:15:38 PST)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Billy: Did anybody reply to your timing chain question of a few weeks ago? The 28-41 Parts Book shows the 39 Series 40 chain as fitting 1934-1941 Series 40 and 1940-41 Series 50. The Ebay chain pictured is probably Oldsmobile as stated.

Your restoration looks terrific. Keep those posts coming!

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Billy: Did anybody reply to your timing chain question of a few weeks ago? The 28-41 Parts Book shows the 39 Series 40 chain as fitting 1934-1941 Series 40 and 1940-41 Series 50. The Ebay chain pictured is probably Oldsmobile as stated.

Your restoration looks terrific. Keep those posts coming!

No and thank you! Looks like it was a good thing I passed on that one. I've been trying to find a timing chain that isn't $100 to my door.

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  • 1 month later...

engine just might be back this week finally....

and a 30x40 ft building is being installed!!!!! This should help move things along better in the summer so there will be no seasonal musical chairs with the boat and the car.

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engine update, got it back this week, during the week Dad cleaned it up and painted it, and put the timing chain gears, new timing chain, camshaft, and breather on, today we put the decal and rebuilt fuel pump on

we are having trouble figuring out where to bolt on the intake and exhaust manifolds ;)

 

 

 

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Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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Looks good Billy !!

Just a suggestion but when you get it up and running, I'd check the fuel pump pressure. Your pump is similar to but not the original fuel pump. I had one like yours and an original. I put the one like yours on first purely because it looked new. It had just over 5 lbs of pressure which was a little on the high side. The original had only a tad under 3 lbs which is about where it should be. Too much pressure "may", and a big "may" cause flooding. Just something to look out for.

Danny

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That's interesting, that pump must be very similar to an original because the rebuild kit for an original one from Bob's worked...??? I will keep that in mind.

We did find that it has been changed at least once because we found an old part of one in the oil pan, the arm that rides on the cam was laying in there, must have broken off. Is the one on there a vintage replacement?

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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Billy,

I have attached a few pics of fuel pumps. Pics 1 & 2 are of a NOS pump I bought on ebay. Pic 3 is of the NOS ebay pump and an original pump that came with the car. Pic 4 is of a NOS pump I bought here at a swapmeet. Pics 1, 2 & 3 are of a pump correct for a '39. You can tell by where the bail attached to the body. It sits 90 degrees to the fuel line. I currently have the pump like yours on my motor but had to put a spacer between the pump and engine body to lower the pressure. I will eventually get around to putting the NOS ebay pump on the engine. In pic 4 you can also see the original screen filter that I took from the original pump. I too will get a kit from Bob's for my NOS ebay pump before I fit it as I don't know if the diaphragm currently in it will be ok with ethanol.

I wouldn't be overly worried about your pump other than to say it is worth checking that the pressure isn't too high as it was with mine.

Danny

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