19tom40

The gasket is cork and readily available from most vendors of Early Ford parts. Why make your own, make a list of parts that you need and add the gasket to the order, to reduce the cost of shipping.

That terminal probably is not causing your problem. That cap should be replaced if you can get a good one. Check your rotor to see if it is damaged. You said that the engine idles fine and you have spark at all 12 cylinders. Now you need to check to see if they are all firing at 1,000 rpm and above by doing the cylinder balance test that I described in my previous post. The engine will idle smoothly with a weak spark but miss when the engine is running at higher rpms.

Thermostats help the engine to reach operating temperatures quickly. This helps to prevent sludge and if you do not drive it much, sludge can build up quickly even with modern detergent oils and a filter. I would also put in the deflector plates. They will help prevent overheating and foaming of the coolant in hot spots.

I would take it back to them and have them make sure that the other plugs are secure. I would also ask them for a mileage guarantee on their work. Tell them that you won't be driving it for a while, but when you do drive it, you want it to be reliable.

I wish you all of the good luck that you need. Save the oil and send it to a nearby lab to check. They will be able to help you determine if there is metal in the oil and what kind of metal. Save the results, you may need them if the shop starts giving you a hard time. Write down your conversation with the shop now while it is fresh in your mind. Save it in your computer and do not modify the file that you saved. If you have more conversations, do the same and save it in a separate file. If you need these conversations, the file saved date will help prove when the conversations took place and your impressions of the conversations Keep all of the conversations cordial and polite, you don't want to make the shop owner angry and uncooperative. You need his help to solve the problem.

Follow Matt's advice, call the shop that rebuilt your engine to see what they want done. Be nice until they start giving you a hard time, then be firm but polite.

I would go with the stitching process if the person who is doing the stitching will say that it will work. You should be able to find a machine shop close to you in MI that will do the work. Epoxies do not hold up very well in old cast iron. If the stitching is not going to work and the area is not visible to the casual observer, you can install a plate over the crack with a paper gasket, similar to a water pump gasket, between the metal plate and the cast iron. I fixed a hole in a Ford V8 engine that way in my younger years when I could not afford anything. I drove the car for 4 more years and sold it with the patch on the block.

Glad that you found out they are still in business and are working on your parts. Moving a business is never an easy task and sometimes unexpected problems can delay getting back to normal for extended periods.

A good pressure cap is required on the 1949-1953 Fords and Mercurys due to the design of the cooling system. Without pressure the coolant gets hot spots that cause overheating. The 1947 engine does not have that problem. If you are having problems when driving down the highway, you need to clean your cooling system. If you are having problems in traffic, your fan is not performing as designed. An aluminum radiator will solve your problem only if your original radiator was plugged. Worn water pumps can cause foaming in the antifreeze, so they are a good fix. If you have a clean system, good water pumps, correct thermostats and a good 4lb radiator cap, you should not have any overheating problems.

I suggest that you send your original type coil to Skip Haney in Florida to have it rebuilt. His charge is $158.00 including shipping. http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm I don't know anything about the coil adapters for the V-12 cars, but the ones for the V-8 cars have been unreliable. The 6V can type coils have a bad reputation for reliability. I had to use 3 coils on my 53 Lincoln before I found one that would stand the under hood heat. I have been driving my 40 Merc with a Skip coil for 15 years without a problem. His coils are the only rebuilt coils used by V-8 owners that drive their cars a lot use. They are the most reliable ones. He also installs and times the points in your distributor. There is an active Forum for the Lincoln cars on this site. You will get fewer guesses and more knowledge there. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/23-lincoln-zephyr/

You might try posting this in the General Discussion and Technical Discussion sections of this site for a broader audience. Maybe someone lives close and could check it out for you. It would be a shame to lose such rare parts.

All of the specifications that I have seen for the 1940-1948 Ford, Lincoln and Mercury call for 5 quarts of oil. I believe that the oil filter was standard on the 1942-1948 Lincolns, so 5 quarts would be the specification with the oil filter.

Do a search for Keith L. or knobsoup and send him a private message.

Here is a link to the different Ford carburetors used on the 1965 models. http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Ford/1965/FordMercuryShopManual/gr10/pages/65FMShop0499_jpg.htm It comes from the 1965 Shop Manual. The float adjustment is also in the Shop Manual. The float level adjustment should be in one of the next few pages of the manual. There were some differences between the 1965 and 1966 carb models, but the 1965 shop manual should help you get yours running. At the top of the page there is a link to take you back to the home of the fuel section. I would look for a 1966 Shop Manual if the online 1965 Manual doesn't work for you.

I believe that you would be better off using 39-41 Lincoln spindles. The Ford spindles use a different king pin and bushings, so they would most likely not match up with your axle. You might have to modify the frame to get a dual master cylinder and pedal assembly to work. The Boling Brothers supply parts to convert Ford brakes and may be able to help you with your Lincoln brakes. https://www.bolingbrothers.com/about-contact-us/

You might have better luck getting an answer on the HAMB. It is a forum for modified cars. I can tell you that you will have to have the frame modified for space to install the transmission and replace the rear end with an open drive shaft rear end. The open drive shaft will require new springs and spring mounts. The electric power steering would require less drastic modifications.

Replacement bushings are available, but Ford used a bearing. I have had a sealed bearing in my 40 Merc for about 40 years and it has not failed. I don't know the quality of current bearings, but bushings can also damage the shaft if they are not lubricated.

The main difference between the 38-39 and the later water pumps appears to be the shaft length. The earlier ones used a shaft 4 27/64" long and the later pump used a shaft 5" long. The parts catalog does not give the impeller count. I would think that the higher number of impellers would move more water and reduce aeration.

In most cases where the tube shocks have been installed, the only change to the chassis is to possibly drill some holes to mount the brackets. The original mounting holes in the chassis will still be there Place want ads on this site, the Ford Barn and the HAMB for your shocks. Search the Early V-8 forum for the name of a rebuilder. He does a better job than Apple Hydraulics.

LCOC is not the only club that has over zealous judges. All clubs have them and I don't let it bother me because it is just a hobby with me and I enjoy the social part of the meet. My Lincoln is an unrestored car and is not very pretty under the hood, so it gets points taken off when ever I show it. My 40 Mercury does not get judged at EFV8 meets because it has received the highest award 3 times when being judged. Now the Meet Judge checks to make sure that the car has not degraded from Concourse condition. I enjoy taking both cars to meets even if I don' come home with a trophy.

Here is a link to a parts catalog for sale: https://www.ebay.com/itm/154379779108?hash=item23f1c07c24:g:fjsAAOSw1LpgVS5E You did not say what year car you are working on, but in many of the 1936-1948 models, Ford used special bolts that had thicker heads and some with non-standard heads. I haven't judged for many years now and never at an AACA meet, but if you do use stainless bolts painted black an astute judge can recognize that they are not the original type bolt. If you are assembling a car to drive and can accept point deductions, go ahead with the stainless bolts, they will save you many hours of detailing over the years. The stainless bolts that I have seen, do not have grade markings. I did not concern myself with the points that I may lose when I had my car judged, I knew that it was not perfect and I was not willing to spend the time or money to make it perfect. I just wanted to get away from the crowd that voted for the car because the owner was your friend or had free beer in his trunk. My office walls are full of trophies and I don't need any more.

Third Generation Automotive sells kit for Ford cars and may be able to supply the correct bolts for your car. You will probably have to supply him with a description (size, thread and finish) of the nuts and bolts that you need. https://thirdgenauto.com/ The different sizes and finish of the bolts that you need are listed in the Chassis parts catalog. Unfortunately you may ave to do a lot of hunting to find what you need for each spot. Most of the bolts are S2 (black oxide) finish. When you are assembling the parts, give the nuts and bolts a coat of semi-gloss clear coat after assembly. The S2 bolts will start to rust as soon as you install them, if you do not do this and the other finishes will last longer.

In the 1930's, Ford called a 4 door convertible car with no roll up windows a Phaeton. The 4 door convertible car with roll up windows was called a Convertible Sedan. Other manufacturers had different names for their body styles. Here is a link to the 1937 Ford sales brochure: http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Ford/1937_Ford/1937 Ford Full Line Brochure/index1.html

It is now called Jim's Battery manufacturing phone (800) 426-7580 They do have a website, but my virus protection warns me against going there.

I have a theory that Ford hired engineers fresh out of college and let them experiment on Lincoln cars until they learned how to make a car serviceable. Then they sold them to GM.