19tom40

John, if you can not find one, you can have your drum relined in McHenry, IL. https://www.jgrelining.com/

You need a hub puller that fits around the center of the rear drum. http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html When you remove the hub, examine the bottom surface of the axle housing for signs of pits and wear. If it is worn, you probably should have the housing sleeved to give the bearings a good surface to ride on. Those bearing need to be serviced every 10,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever come first. Brake typically lasted around 20,000 miles in those days, so your drums were probably removed to service the bearings or brakes. The best grease for your wheel bearings is StaLube SL3131. The disc/drum wheel bearing grease does not hold up on the roller bearings. https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3131-Heavy-Bearing-Grease/dp/B000CPJMYI/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=drum+brake+wheel+bearing+grease&qid=1632152077&sr=8-6

The Early Ford V-8 Club accepts 32-53 Lincolns, Zephyrs and Continentals and there are many Regional Groups across the country. Member of Regional Groups try to help others in restoring and repairing their cars. There are 6 RG in NY and one of them should be near your location. Contact the one closest to your location and see if one of the members can help you out. Most cars of the period have simple electrical systems that are similar. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm

Here is his website http://www.vintageautowarehouse.com/

Try Metro Moulded Rubber. They may have one that is close. Here is a link to the pads that they have for sale. https://metrommp.com/catalogue/?typeofsearch=1&search_query_adv=door+handle+mounting+pad

No, I have not and do not know anybody that has. My Lincoln has the battery under the floor and I converted an old Ford script battery by gutting the case and installing an Optima in it for my 40 Mercury.

I don't know a source for a battery cover, but here is a link to buy a reproduction battery. https://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/TurboStart/Lincoln.html

I misunderstood your original post, I did not understand that you were referencing the wires from the overdrive relay to the ignition coil. The way you want to connect them is the way that the wiring diagram shows. As far as overdrive operation, it would not matter which wire goes to the left coil or the right coil. When the kickdown switch is activated, the relay picks and shorts out both coil wires to ground until the overdrive solenoid drops out.

Yes it does matter. Use the color code on the wires to install them on the correct tab. Boos-Herrel has wiring diagrams on his site.

After 50 years of storage, this is not a "put some gas and a fresh battery, start it up and go for a joy ride" project. The brakes are probably toast and you will probably need all new hoses and cylinders. The shoes are probably stuck to the drums. Some of the brake steel lines may be rusted on the inside, so it is probably a good idea to replace them. The fuel tank is probably coated with varnish that will loosen and clog the fuel line when fresh gas is put in, so the tank, flex line and fuel pump will need to be replaced and the carburetor will need to be rebuilt. The copper coated steel line should also be replaced as it may have varnish or rust on the inside. The engine maybe stuck after all those years and the valve springs probably have taken a set, so they won't work very well. The distributor and coils should also be checked out before you try to start it. I would sit down and make a list of all that has to be done and parts that need to be rebuilt or replaced before you try to drive it and then organize it so you can allocate the time and money needed to get things done. Think about things like do you want good brakes before you get the engine running, so you can tow the car or do you want to get the engine running first so you have an incentive to work on the brakes? Quite a few of the parts can be bought from Rock Auto, NAPA or you corner parts house, others will have to come from vendors that make supporting the hobby their business.

If the car is an unrestored car, you should try to keep it that way. If you need to rejuvenate the paint, there is a U-Tube video on using Meguire's No. 7 Show Car Glaze on how to bring back most of the original shine and add the original oils back int the paint. The procedure is labor intensive, but well worth the effort. My 1953 Lincoln is an unrestored car. The top of my car is painted with a metallic color, but after 67 years, you would not know it. I used the procedure on the car and now you can see the metallic component of the paint and the car looks much better than when I bought it. The rest of the car looks great also. The other day, I made a BIG mistake, the left front fender looked dull in the garage light, so I applied some of the Show Car Glaze and let it sit overnight. The next day, I wiped it off and applied some Jay Leno wax that was given to me. Now I have to do the whole car over again. The fender looks like it was just painted.

After doing a little more research, the numbers that you posted appear to be the body number. 876H7326612 = 876 - 1948 Lincoln, 73 -body type 4 door sedan, 26612 body serial number. The car appears to be a 1948 Lincoln sedan. You will need to find the frame serial number in order to get a new title. Check with the DMV to see what they need to get an new title. If you know the name, address, serial number and the last year that it was registered for plates, you may be able to get a replacement title without an inspection. When cleaning the frame to look for the number, do not use abrasives as you could erase 1 or more numbers. Start by washing the frame with a good grease dissolving soap and use a scraper to gently remove any heavy build up of grease or rust. If there is a lot of rust, I like to use Evapo Rust gel. It doesn't harm the metal and is friendly to the environment. Here is a link to how to use it: https://evapo-rust.com/how-to-use-evapo-rust-gel/

Could that be the body number tag? the serial number should be on the left frame rail between the front body mount and the radiator mount. Most of the serial numbers were stamped near the steering box. Here is a link to the serial numbers for all US made Ford vehicles. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm

I would buy the car and put aside money to repair it if it is bad. If you are concerned about the condition and maintenance of the 2 speed rear end contact John Connely at Columbia 2 speed parts. http://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/index.cfm John is always ready to give advice on the Columbia and has a rebuilding service that " bullet proofs" the axle. I know several people that have put on lots of miles on their Columbias without problems.

That is a 1941 Ford windshield wiper knob. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/product_search/20/1/2/?q=dash+knobs&globalfilter[custom1]=Car&globalfilter[custom2]=1941&globalfilter[custom4]=

Are you asking if the primary wire to the left side coil is switched to the right side coil would make a difference in running? If that is your question the short answer is NO. The feed from the ignition switch to the ignition resisters is common to both resisters and both resisters should be identical. I was not concerned about not enough fuel in the sediment bowl, but how the gasket seals the bowl to the vacuum from the fuel pump. This could be a source for insufficient fuel delivery. I suggest that you do the fuel delivery test, so you can eliminate concerns about fuel starvation.

If I interpret your post correctly, the engine starts missing at high rpms. Fuel pressure would not be as critical at high rpms as it would be at low rpms. The fuel pump only needs enough pressure to overcome the float pressure. Float pressure would be at its highest during low rpms because the bowl would be closer to full. Fuel starvation at high rpms can be caused by the fuel level in the carburetor bowl being too low. The causes of this can be that the pump is unable to deliver enough fuel or the float level in the carburetor being too low. As I said in my article "Insufficient fuel delivery can be caused by a vacuum leak, plugged flex line, worn pivot in the pump arm, stretched diaphragm, plugged fuel line or tank pickup, plugged tank vent or wrong gas cap or a worn push rod." If you are not delivering enough fuel, you should check to make sure that the fuel line from the tank has all of its fitting tight. The fuel line should be a copper coated steel line, rubber fuel injector lines are made to hold pressure not vacuum. The flex line from the pump should be one made for the car, not a fuel injector line with hose clamps. Next check the gasket for the sediment bowl. I like the rubberized cork gasket as they seem to seal better and hold up better. If your is the rubber gasket, make sure that it is pliable and that the bowl is seated on the gasket. Next, check the float bowl fuel level. Start the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Then shut it off, and remove the top of the carburetor. The fuel level should be about 1/8"-1/4" lower than the hole for the accelerator pump. If it is more than this adjust the float to raise it. Have you tried pulling out the choke about 1/4-1/2 way to see if that improves the performance? If it doesn't, you may have ignition problems.

Chris, what are your symptoms and what have you tried to eliminate them? Did you do the fuel delivery test? Does it miss when going up hills? Does it cut out when going around corners? Does it bog down when you try to accelerate? You can buy a vacuum and fuel pump pressure gauge for less than $30 and it is a good tool to have in your garage. It will tell you if your carburetor is adjusted correctly, your timing is correct, or if you have internal engine problems.

Chris, IMHO adding a fuel filter just adds to the problems with fuel delivery. You add 2 or more connections that can lead to the pump sucking air instead of fuel. Here is a section on fuel delivery from an article that I wrote 10 years ago. Insufficient fuel delivery: This condition shows up when driving at highway speeds as a miss or the engine dies. Vapor lock occurs when the fuel pump output pressure is very low and the engine is hot. It is much rarer than commonly thought. Most cases of suspected vapor lock can be attributed to another problem such as a weak coil or condenser, but can be caused by a weak fuel pump. To determine if you really have vapor lock, remove the air cleaner and look in the bowl of the carburetor, while operating the accelerator linkage. You should see two streams of gas in the carburetor if you don’t, you have a fuel pump problem. Fuel pump pressure is controlled by the return spring under the diaphragm, too little pressure means the spring is weak, too much pressure means the wrong spring was used. Pressure should be between 1.5 - 3.0 lbs at all engine RPMs. Too much pressure will not allow the float to control the amount of fuel in the carburetor bowl, low pressure will affect fuel delivery. To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas. Insufficient fuel delivery can be caused by a vacuum leak, plugged flex line, worn pivot in the pump arm, stretched diaphragm, plugged fuel line or tank pickup, plugged tank vent or wrong gas cap or a worn push rod.

The pressure should be between 1.5-3.5lbs. The rod stroke is around 1/4". The pressure is controlled by the fuel pump return spring and the stroke of the push rod. A good rule of thumb is to replace the pushrod when you replace the fuel pump. Boose-Herrel has the pushrod. Fuel pressure is not very critical on a carbureted engine. You need just enough pressure to prevent vapor lock and to overcome the float pressure. Most new pumps deliver around 3 lbs of pressure with a 1/4" stroke. Fuel volume is important. Insufficient fuel volume can lead to missing under load or going up hill and hard starting. The pushrod can affect the fuel volume as well as other items in the supply side of the fuel delivery.

I don't remember if you converted your engine to adjustable valve lifters. If you did, I would expect that you have a valve adjustment problem. If your lifters are still hydraulic, you should remove the intake manifold and observe the valve operation as you turn the engine over. You could have stuck valves, guide keepers not installed correctly or bad lifters. Check the gap between the lifters and the valves when the cylinders that had leakage through the carburetor are at TDC and both valves are closed. Check the valve positions also. They should be at the bottom of their travel, if not check to see if the lifter is holding it open or it is stuck in the guide.

Those shims are there to make sure that the sector roller is centered on the worm. The adjustment screw is used to adjust the thrust tension of the sector shaft. I doubt that you will be able to compensate for worn parts by removing or adding shims or adjusting the thrust tension. Here is a link to the Lares site with the adjustments for a worm and roller steering box. https://www.larescorp.com/toolbox/skinned-knuckles-articles/manual-steering-gear-and-linkage/ They also rebuild the steering boxes. Your handling problems may be due to worn shock absorbers, tire pressure, worn or old tires, any of the 4 wheel bearings, worn rear axle housings, toe in, bent front axle that changes camber or caster or worn tie rod ends. The car is a big sail in crosswinds and should be driven at moderate speeds during such conditions.

According to my Chassis parts catalog the 36-38 Zephyrs use the same hub and drum. Good luck finding a good set. If your car is a late 38, it probably came from the factory with the small bolt pattern.

Dave, have you done this test to see where the play is coming from: Lock the steering wheel, jack up one front wheel and try to move it left and right, as if the wheel was going to make a turn. There should be NO play. If there is play, check the tie rod and drag link ends. If there is no movement there, check for movement at the pitman arm. If there is movement there, your steering box should be rebuilt. Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to wiggle the wheel. If there is movement, your kingpin bushings are worn and should be replaced. Repeat the test on the other front wheel. The adjustment of the gear mesh should only be done with new parts. The steering gear does not wear evenly and adjust old gears can lead to tight spots and more wear or even breakage. The amount of play that you are seeing is probably caused by worn tie rod ends and king pins.

Are you cranking the engine until the gauge does not increase the reading? Your readings are not consistent, leading me to believe that you are not getting a good seal with the tester or not cranking the engine long enough. Try again with the throttle pulled all the way out, all spark plugs removed, a fully charged battery and cranking the engine long enough for at least 4 compression strokes on each cylinder being tested.