19tom40

The black plugs and idle mixture screws having no effect usually means that the power valve in the carburetor is leaking.

There is a Chassis Parts Catalog listed on E-Bay now. It seems to be priced above the market for parts catalogs, but the supply is limited. You probably should try to negotiate with the vendor. I got my Lincoln manuals at half the asking price by telling the seller that the demand for these manuals is rarer than the supply. You might be better off searching for a 1946 catalog https://www.ebay.com/itm/165156620372 Read this topic and search this forum for wiring questions. Model 76H includes all 1948 Lincoln models and body styles made in 1947. Please let us know which model (Continental or Zephyr) and body style.

I have never tried replacing the spring with the transmission in the car, so I don't know how difficult it would be. Your body would be in an awkward position and it is hard to see what you are doing through the inspection hole. I would not leave a broken spring in there as it could cause damage.

The parts catalogs only list 1 motor for the 1941 Ford and Mercury ( P/N 11A-17508-A). It is a one year only design and should be repairable. It may not need to be repaired, sometimes just exercising the motor will get it working. Remove both wiper arms, start the car and turn the wipers on high. If the motor works in this mode, it will probably work fine with a little lubrication and exercise. To lubricate the motor, I would remove it and put a few drops of light oil in the motor through the vacuum port and on the cam mechanism under the small cover with 2 screws. I also lubricate the linkage on my 40 Merc. every year. One small drop of 30w oil on the pivot points and some 3in one on the shaft at the base of the windshield. You can bypass the switch by running a vacuum hose directly to the large port on the motor. The pot metal in the 41 switches sometimes develop small vacuum leaks. If you haven't done it yet, install new hoses, these motors need all of the vacuum that they can get. If none of these tips get your motor working, you can check with Clean Sweep Wiper Repair at (541) 420-9098 to see if they will service your motor or have a rebuilt for sale. Your last option is to disassemble the motor, clean out the hardened grease and lubricate the paddle with a non hardening silicone lubricant like Sil-Glyde or Super-Lube. When you reassemble the motor, tighten all screws evenly and in a pattern similar to tightening head nuts. Any motor that you buy will probably need service, so you are probably better off doing these things first. Here is a NOS motor https://www.ebay.com/itm/144775313938?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5335825744&toolid=10034&customid=odcparts

I had one go bad and it did not make any noise until shortly before it disintegrated. You may have damaged the bearing when your foot slipped off of the clutch. Drain your transmission and check for metal particles in the gear oil and the bottom of the transmission. If you chipped a gear or damaged a synchronizer, you should see some metal particles. Remove your front floorboard and remove the inspection plate for the bell housing. Start the car and listen for the noise. If it is the throw out bearing it will be noticeably louder. You can see the clutch action through the window. The throw out bearing fork is cast iron and is hard to damage, so it is an unlikely source of noise.

Have you determined whether it is the motor or switch?

The throw out bearing might be damaged or going bad.

Get some water boiling, remove it from the heat source, insert the float in the water. If there are any leaks, you will see bubbles rising from the leak as the air inside the float expands due to heat.

You need an engine stand adapter that fits on the exhaust manifold mounts. Attaching the engine to the engine stand at the bell housing could lead to the bell housing breaking and the engine falling to the floor. With the correct adapter it is difficult to control the rotation of the block, so I would recommend a buddy or replacing the seal with the block on the floor, minus the intake manifold.

The pinon gear is part of the shaft, so you have to remove and disassemble the rear end. I suggest that you ask your modification questions on the HAMB. People on that Forum have more expedience with modifications. The supplier of the kit may have a fix for you. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/

SMS may have a kit for the 1939 Coupe. They do not have a good reputation for delivering the kits, but seem to deliver the material after a short wait. Another source for the material is Classtique. If he still has fabric on the seats, a good upholstery shop can make new covers for the seats.

I posted a link to the serial number chart by year on Van Pelts site in my previous post. Your serial number falls in early 1948. Please post a photo of your car, we enjoy seeing photos of cars.

Have you made sure that the play is in the steering box by disconnecting the drag link, locking the steering wheel and try moving the pitman arm? I do a quick check on play by jacking up one wheel and have someone move the wheel from side to side and in and out to see where the play is. If the play is in the steering box, you probably need a new worm and sector, so having the box rebuilt professionally is your best bet.

It appears to be a 1948 Lincoln and the 6 is probably an 8. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm

I don't know where you could buy an exact reproduction, but Metro Moulded parts may have a set that you can modify for your car. Give them a call and ask them if one of their generic seals will work. https://metrommp.com/catalogue/?typeofsearch=1&search_query_adv=vent+window+seal

You have symptoms of a vacuum leak on the supply side of the fuel pump. If you have the fuel pump with the glass bowl, the bowl gasket may be leaking vacuum. I would replace the gasket with a rubberized cork gasket. If that did not solve the problem, replace the flex line before the pump. Make sure that all connections are tight but not over tight. I am not a fan of electric fuel pumps or inline fuel filters. I like to see a solid steel fuel line from the tank to the firewall, to prevent vacuum leaks. My 40 Mercury sits for months and starts withing 30 seconds. Before I replaced the fuel line in 1990, I had to prime the carburetor several time to get it running after sitting more than a week. I had to move it from one garage to another last week. I had not started the engine since June 30th, due to health problems. It started right up within 15 seconds.

I like Charley Schwendler cas5845@yahoo.com He has lots of experience with the Ford / Holley carburetor.

42 - 47 Ford & Mercury distributor

With the vacuum gauge hooked up, increase the engine speed slowly. If the vacuum drops, you have a plugged exhaust system. If you opened the throttle quickly, the engine vacuum will drop and then come back up when the engine reaches the rpm set by the throttle position. You can do a quick check for fuel starvation by pulling out the choke slowly. If the power increases, you have a fuel delivery problem. The correct fuel line is copper coated steel. It should have a compression sleeve at the tank and at the flex line. I compress the sleeves and then remove the line and solder the sleeve to the tubing. This gives a nice leak free connection.

I would get a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum readings against the topics on this page: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/ Do you have any other symptoms such as a miss or engine cutting out?

Check for a strong spark at all 12 cylinders. You may be running on 6 cylinders.

It would help others if you disclosed your sources or the formula.

Check the voltage at the BAT terminal with the engine running at about 1,200 RPM it should be about 9.2V.Do NOT follow his instructions as you could damage the generator or voltage regulator.

If your timing is off the points are worn or someone maladjusted the points. I doubt that timing is your problem. Test your battery voltage under load by connecting the volt meter across the battery and trying to crank the engine with the starter. An 8 volt battery should read at least 6.5 volts. The way I would trouble shoot your problem is to check the voltage drop from the battery to the starter terminal (black lead on battery terminal, red lead on starter) the voltage reading should be 0.3V or less. If it is higher you may have corroded or incorrect cables, bad solenoid or bad starter.

TCP Global ( https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ ) has many of the old formulas in PPG paint. They also can mix a modern equivalent that will appear close to the original. Did you check wit them?