Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About lincolnmatthews

  • Birthday 11/29/1956

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

lincolnmatthews's Achievements

500+ Points

500+ Points (2/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. I know everybody probably know this but me, didn't see it answered in the authenticity manual for the Continentals. I see the blue body paint of course on the inner engine bay & frame but would like to clean up the inner front fenders etc while I have the engine out. Thank you!
  2. Thanks you guys, I talked to my rebuilder this AM, he is going to "stich it" and sleeve & then resurface the block of course (not sure of the particular order). He stated that he has done this a lot to Flat head Fords and has had very good results. I will be checking my spare block just to see how it is 1st, if its no better then I guess I will be going with my rebuilders recommendations. He did say (made sense to me later) that where it is cracked that the head gasket doesn't make contact, as its within the combustion area. So no welding is necessary.
  3. Hello mentioned previously having sent my V12 down to Portland for a rebuild, just heard back today that its cracked (2 spots from the exhaust seats into the cylinder walls). They want to sleeve these 2 cyls at an added cost of $1000.00 ($500.00 ea cyl) does this sound reasonable?. I talked to Cast Iron Repair out of Arlington WA he said that yet it needs to be sleeved but also welded to prevent blowing out a head gasket in the future, I have to verify that the rebuilder was going to have it welded, if not then I have a problem. I have a spare block & I'm going to check out for a crack on the seats, but will probably send it down to Portland to have it magnaflexed. It will probably be cracked too, I assume that most of these blocks are cracked. Maybe I'm wrong, I only know that its getting almost beyond what I want to spend on this project, considering I'm only beginning having to buy wiring from Rhode Island at $1500 ++ Thanks!
  4. Well thank you guys for your help! I ended up removing the 15/16" nuts on the motor mounts & did lift them out with the engine. I had removed the hood so had lots of overhead room. Not sure about reinstalling the engine but that's several months down the road. Now on to cleaning & painting the engine compartment. I've decided to replace all the wiring from the dash forward (going with Rhode Island Wiring). Will replace all the rear wiring at a later date. I've had this car since 90 & have enjoyed it a lot (however it has sat a lot which has been hard on the engine etc) hopefully this complete engine rebuild will go satisfactory. I'm looking forward to driving the car again! This is the 1st time I've pulled this engine & am learning a lot! thanks for everybody's help.
  5. On my 2nd weekend, thought I might get the old V-12 out of my 42 Cont today. Well maybe tomorrow (after I go & buy more tools!) Ran into difficulty with the front motor mounts, removed the one 5/8" nut on both sides thought that was it. I see there's another 5/8" bolt facing down that would need to come out, or the large 7/8" nut under the cross member which I assume would allow the whole motor mount lift up with the engine?? I just didn't have a 7/8" deep socket to get between the cross member & the spring, kind of a PITA. Thought maybe a long 3/8" extension with a universal joint I maybe able to get at the inner 5/8" bolt from underneath Anyway was wondering what you guys have done in the past, what do you recommend, remove the large nut from the stud on bottom of the mount. Thanks for any help!!
  6. Yes, thank you! I noticed the three bolts! Does take a little patience, finally got the radiator out. Now of course I feel stupid, will never forgot this little lesson! I'm in Love again with this car! Should never have questioned the engineers who designed these old cars! I have been humbled once again.
  7. I may have answered my own question, I thought the fan came off with crank damper (special puller). But after looking at a parts breakdown Its looks like the fan will unbolt. I felt inside the opening just didn't feel a bolt I will check it again.
  8. Starting my long process of pulling engine for a complete rebuild, drained the fluids & finally figured out how to unbolt radiator. Now trying to pull radiator but I believe its impossible without destroying it by the fan blades. You can't tip it enough to pull out thru the factory notches by the fenders, I've already been hitting the radiator fins, hope I haven't already wrecked the core. I'm thinking maybe I have what is called a "desert core" and is thicker than the standard radiator that would have came with the car, ( my car came out of the Mohave Desert CA) probably was replaced at some point. One can't pull the fan while in the car, correct?. The only way I see it is that the engine will have to be lifted up enough to allow the radiator to clear. If this is correct what a POS design!!, one has to basically almost pull the engine to get radiator out! I haven't gotten to far on this project today and am "dead in the water" trying to do this without hardly any help, & was planning on doing just a little at a time, (bad back, 2 surgeries already) but today has about finished me on this car. Have owned since 91, and is a very nice car. Did think about selling it as is today though!! Would appreciate any ideas on how to proceed, thank you!
  9. I'm by no means an expert here on this subject, but I have always used Valvolene 20-50wt Racing Oil or a straight 40wt. I've got a very tired engine so I think the heavier is better, also this oil has zinc in it for "flat tappets & push rod engines". Which has been my understanding that's why we need zinc in our oils is for the flat tappets. I'm pulling my engine soon and will be sending down to Central Heads in Portland OR for a complete rebuild. I will be using this oil again. Regarding the transmission & rear ends, I was told by the late great George Trickett to use a gear oil with no sulphur or low sulphur content because it attacks yellow metal such as brass bushings etc. So I have used a 90wt oil that he recommended at the time, (the brand escapes me, this is getting harder to find). Anyway just my 2 cents worth.
  10. Thank you for your suggestions, after tearing apart the door panels today they look original in the maroon color.
  11. After many years of 42 Continental ownership with all the V-12 hassles I wanted something more simple, hence the Chevrolet OHV 6! I bought the car last July a beautiful black 5 window coupe what a beautiful car!!!! I love this car, documented 50,000 miles, no rust but needs some chrome work such as door quarter window frames, ext handles, & bumpers. One question I have is the color of the door window frames & dash, it is a maroon or a flat burgandy color, is this correct? I'm sure that Chevrolet didn't do a wood grain on the glass frames for a deluxe master coupe. I'm thinking that I should re-spray the door frames, & maybe the dash while I'm redoing the chrome pieces etc. Is the correct color for a 37 Chevy the semi-gloss maroon color (anybody have a color code) or should it be wood grained? Thanks!!!
  12. Hey thanks for the reply's! I should add to this, my car is stored in an older pole building that's insulated on a concrete floor. It does leak in some water onto the floor at times around the overhead door. I'm getting that most of you guys don't use covers for the most part. I to use a California duster, & actually the cover that I have used on my 42 car is a California Car Cover there blue one. My other new car the 37 Coupe is going to be stored in a new shop/garage that's probably going to be dryer, I guess I won't cover it but just dust it off regularly. Thanks!
  13. I know this seems pretty self-explanatory, but I've had one of my old cars covered for over 20+ years & has developed little tiny pin head size bumps all over it. I was told by several people that this was caused from having it covered all the time. They say the covers trap moisture, I always figured the bumps on my car was caused over the years from some type of reaction between the paint and the lead that was used at the time. Anyway I now just purchase another old car (1937) with very nice paint & was wondering about covering it also. I live in the PNW where it of course rains a lot so there's lots of moisture in my shop during winter months. Thanks for any opinions!
  14. After seeing one for sale in Hemmings I'm in Love!! & I've been a Ford products guy most of my 60 yrs! I knew I never wanted a "rattle A" again and having owned my 42 Continental since 1990 I knew no more flatheads! either in the 8 or 12 configuration. I know the 33 Chev 3-window is rare but how rare? Are they so rare that when one comes up one should grab it or wait for the right price or ?. I like the simplicity of the "stovebolt 6" and the reliability for a tour vehicle. Also I like the body how it flows around the windshield unlike the 34. Anyway appreciate any feedback from anybody who owns one of these beauties! Also any insights on what a fair price might be for one in very nice condition, thank you.
  15. I should have collecting these yrs ago! Saw a beautiful 34 Coupe for sale way out of my price range at 47k! Just wondered who was the designer of this body style? Just thought I would compliment these cars, I'm sure there's other years just as beautiful. Maybe someday I will run across a Coupe that's not quite so perfect, I'll have to have it!
  • Create New...