19tom40

Here are the instructions on removing glass from a Ford or Mercury. They should work for your coupe. Go to page 9 of 9. If the rubber seal is the least bit hard, it may crumble or tear when using this method. I would use the nylon pry bars like the ones sold by Eastwood. I would also use 3M Adhesive remover before I tried loosening the seal from the body. It will soften any adhesive applied previously. Good luck.

What are you trying to accomplish? Trying to match a color from a photo is not a good idea, especially when the color is metallic. My 40 Merc looks like a different shade depending on the camera, the time of day the photo was taken, and other lighting considerations. If you are trying to to get an exact match to to the factory color of a car, you will have to find a spot that has not seen the light of day since it was painted, then get a spray out of the formula from your paint supplier, then adjust the formula to match the spot. Today's metallic particles are very different from the ones used in 1946 so you will not be able to get an exact match. Paint cross reference says that 14148 is the darker of the two Skyline Blue paints used in 1946.

No more than the color charts show, one was metallic and the other was not. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1946-Lincoln.html

Mine won't either, I would still check with other convertible owners in the area to see if they have any recommendations.

West, you may not have a problem with him jumping ito your discussion, but I do. In order to answer each of you correctly, I have to read through the complete topic to make sure that I am giving the best advice that I can to each of you. I am limited on the time that I can give, so I consider that a waste of time.

I would go to a local shop that has installed or made a top for a 1940's car and have them choose a supplier and install it. A poor or incorrectly installed top can ruin the appearance of the car and be expensive to make right. Check around for other convertible owners in your area to find out who does the best work.

The KIWI Resistance measurements seldom give a good indication of a weak coil. Old coils break down under heat conditions first and then finally stop working. your problem sounds more like a bad coil. My recommendation is to send the distributor and coil to Skip Haney. Incorrect dwell will damage a coil. You can measure the voltage at the input to the coils with the ignition switch on for a sort period. With the contact points closed the voltage should be near 3V and with the points open it should be battery voltage. If the voltage is below 2.5V at the input, the current flow is too high or the resister has corroded connections. Too high current flow is caused by a bad condenser or bad coil. I also STRONGLY advise you to start your own discussion. Jumping into someone else's discussion adds confusion because the problem discussions do not necessarily relate to each other.

I agree with Ray 500, send your distributor and coils to Skip Haney. Your symptoms show a possible weak coil.

You can try removing the solenoid and then try to move the cable, but I really believe that you are going to have to remove and repair the transmission and over drive. The only man that I would trust working on the overdrive is Mac Van Pelts http://vanpeltsales.com/ He sometimes gives help over the phone and does do some E-Mail assistance when he has time. I strongly suggest that you contact him as he has 1,000 time more knowledge than I do. Do NOT drive the car, you could do serious damage up to breaking the cases.

IMHO, the original design is much more impressive. I think it is ugly with it's chopped top and slammed.

If the overdrive is engaged, you will not be able to shift into reverse. There is a rod that is activated by a cam in the transmission that forces the overdrive to disengage. This may have been damaged when you ran the OD dry. To check if this is the problem, disengage the OD with the dash control and the try to go in reverse. If you can, then you will have to remove the trans and overdrive and replace the damaged parts. If it was my car, I would not drive it, either way, until I had checked the OD and trans for worn parts. You could cause some very serious damage. Look for the Repair Manual Transmission, Clutches, Overdrives and power takeoffs Ford form no 3697-47 and buy the book. You will need it to trouble shoot and repair the OD

I have always used the correct hub puller, so I don't have direct experience with a warped drum. Your vibration problem could be a bad driveshaft center bearing. Get the back wheels off of the ground and use a stethoscope or another sound amplifier to check for noise from the center bearing when the engine is driving the rear wheel and when the rear wheels are coasting. Also check the drive shaft to pinion gear area for noise. A loose coupling could also cause that type of vibration.

The 49-51 Mercury use the same hood dowel P/N 0M-1629, spring P/N 8M-1625 (7 coils), and guide 11A-16927. The 11A prefix seems to indicate that a 1941-1951 Ford and Mercury use the same guide. The spring and dowel are unique to Mercury. The Ford used parts with the 11A prefix, Lincoln used parts with the Lincoln prefixes. I do not have experience with the fit of the parts, I just looked up the P/N in the Chassis Parts Catalog for 1949-1953 Mercury. In a pinch the Ford spring might work, just not pop up the hood as well. You will need the Mercury Dowel as it will be the only one to fit the receptor. The 52-53 spring might also work as it has 7 1/2 coils. Good luck, I started the restoration of my 40 Merc in 1975 and I used quite a few incorrect parts until I redid the restoration in 2005 when I had all of the correct parts except some unique bolts.

West, both the NOS and NORS inner plates will swell some with storage or were made oversized. I don't know which it is. I trial fit mine before I put in the wires. If they do not fit, I use my belt sander to carefully shave off some of excess. Make sure that you maintain as much of the roundness as you can. Try each cap in both sides of the distributor as a cap may fit in one side and not the other, due to casting tolerances. I am sorry that I did not mention that before, but it is automatic for me and I just did not think of it.

Here is where you can buy a new hub puller: http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html Do NOT use the 3 arm type the bolts to the drums, it will distort the drums.

Check with Boose Herrel. He lists the vent window seals in his catalog. http://www.boos-herrel.com/index.html I can't help you on the Columbia vacuum lines.

West that alone would not account for a miss or stumbling. The missing tab can allow the outer cap to rotate and pull one or more wires from their seat in the inner cap. The outer cap has nothing to do with timing or spark control, it is just protective.

West it is rubber and will stretch. It is held in place by a groove in the cap. I slip a very thin screwdriver blade between the rubber and the cap protrusion and then just roll it off. If you damage it while removing it, Boose Herrel has them in stock.

You do not have to remove the engine to remove the Mercomatic. I suggest that you get the CD form of the shop manual as there are a few cautions that must be observed to prevent damage to the car. The instructions are too long to type in for a one finger typist using the biblical method of typing. Here is the one that I have: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,1953,capri,5.2l+318cid+v8,1342460,literature,repair+manual,10335

Thanks West. When I read "How did you get the spark plug plates out of the distributor? Do the wires have to come out first? " , I took it literally. It is easier to replace the wires in the conduits (long steel tubes) and caps by removing the conduits from the engine. To remove the conduits, remove the generator belt, remove the 2 intake manifold bolts that hold the conduit attached to the engine, remove the terminal plates from the distributor and remove the conduit and wires. To remove the outer cap from the terminal plates remove the "O" ring from the center of the terminal plate amd the outer cap will come off. When you replace the wires, start with the longest wire first and the continue with the next longest. It is easier to feed the wires from the spark plug end, leaving enough wire to reach the plug. When you have all of the wires in the conduit, cut the wire to length, put on the terminal and insert the wire into the cap. I recommend that you purchase the Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Service Manual Form #3606-42-48 reprint available from most vendors that supply the 32-48 Ford parts such as C&G Ford parts https://cgfordparts.com/42-48-pass-merc-pu-service.html It has service information that you will probably find very helpful.

If the contact plates are stuck in the distributor, I remove the coil and try to press them out from the inside, while pulling on the outside. You do NOT need to remove the wires first.

25lbs pressure could be fine with the stock oil pump. It depends upon the oil viscosity and the rpm that you are seeing this pressure. When the fuel pump push rod wears out the bushing, the oil pressure is near 0lbs at most rpms. I would drive and enjoy the car. If you start to hear unwelcome sounds from the engine, then I would investigate why.

Evidently the ignition switch was left on while you went out to get gas. The charger was connected correctly. Your coil may still be OK. Start the car and check for a 1/2" blue spark when a plug wire is held close to a head bolt. Do this for both sides of the coil. If the spark is orange in color, your coil may be damaged.

The fuse ends must be insulated from the metal case. If they are not, the case of the fuse holder will be electrically energized and could start a fire. Originally there was a cardboard tube that went around the fuse to isolate it from the case. If you do not have that tube, cut a piece of shrink tubing just long enough to cover the sides of the fuse and heat it enough to keep it in place Then install the fuse.

If your oil press8ure is normal, your pushrod bushing is probably OK. The bushing id a loose fit and there is little wear force and plenty of oil to lubricate it. I would not try to replace it unless you are rebuilding the engine or are having low oil pressure problems.