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19tom40

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Everything posted by 19tom40

  1. Glad that you have it running. The voltage at the coils with the engine running will be higher than when the engine is not running. Your generator is probably not charging because of slight corrosion on the cutout points in the Voltage regulator. Disconnect the battery and clean them or sometimes just driving the car will burn through the corrosion. If you are still having the low voltage at the coil with the engine stopped, this can cause hard starting when hot. Check out the circuit using the procedure outlined below. 2.7V across the resister is slightly high, but not enough to give you a problem. We now know that the resisters are good enough to give you a good running car. 6.3-2.7 = 3.6 that you should see at the coil. You are losing about 1 volt in the rest of the system. To find out where you are losing it, connect the black meter lead to the post of the circuit breaker that comes from the battery. It should have 2 heavy yellow wires and a yellow and black wire that goes to the ignition switch. Connect the red to the resister terminal that it was on for the resister test. Turn on the ignition switch. The meter should now read 2.7V - 2.8 V. If it reads higher, your ignition switch needs cleaning. Disconnect the battery and operate the ignition switch many times to try to clean it. Reconnect the battery and repeat the test. If the voltage is good now, you are set to go. If it is not, you will have to disassemble the switch and clean it.
  2. A reading of 3mv tells me that NO current is flowing in the circuit or you do not have the meter connected properly.
  3. When the car sits for a long time, the points will develop a thin film of corrosion. That is probably is your first scenario, were you did not have spark and then you did have spark. The ballast resisters will increase their resistance as they get hot. To determine where your problem may be, check the voltage across the resister. Connect the black lead to the source voltage terminal on the resister and the red lead to the terminal going to the coil that has the points closed. Turn on the ignition switch. The meter should read no more than 2.2V. Repeat the test at the other resister after tapping the starter to close the other set of points. If the meter reads higher, the resister has probably developed some corrosion where it is riveted to the case or there is corrosion under the connectors. I have used electronic cleaner to reduce the corrosion at the rivets. I then coat them with a thin film of ignition grease. If the meter reads 1.8-2.2V the resister is OK and the problem is elsewhere. Check across the ignition switch in the same manner, the meter should read 0.1V or less.
  4. You will have to have the car installed on a frame machine so they can pull everything back in place. I would do a lot of research to find a shop nearby that has some experience with the 1961-1968 Lincoln as they are quite different than other uni-body cars. Check with a local LCOC club to see if they have any recommendations. https://lcoc.org/ Also https://suicideslabs.com/ and https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=32 Good Luck
  5. Properly applied tank coatings last a long time. If the surface is clean and the coating is applied in a coat thin enough to cover the tank and allowed to cure, you should have no problem with it. A common mistake is to drain the excess coating through the drain hole instead of the sending unit hole it the top of the tank. By draining the excess coating out the top of the tank, you leave the thicker coating in the area that is most exposed to air and H2O instead of the bottom where the fuel protects the tank. About 1/4 of a quart of Bill Hirsch's coating will do a 15 gal tank. I coated the tank on my 40 Coupe in 1978 and it was still in good condition in 2005 when I decide to remove the dent in the bottom of the tank. The removal required heating the metal, so I had to remove the coating. After the repair, I re-coated the tank and have had not problems with the coating. That is 44 years of experience with tank coating without a problem.
  6. I agree with Matt, you probably have debris in the tank. Try removing the copper coated steel line from the flex line and blowing towards the tank. If the pump starts delivering fuel, the problem is in the tank or the line from the tank. The inline filter could also be a part of the problem. Most of them tend to leak vacuum and the fuel pump needs to develop at least 12 inches of vacuum in order to get fuel from the tank. You have a very nice Continental and if it was my car I would drop the tank and have it cleaned at a radiator shop and sealed to prevent rust. Then you can throw away your inline filter. I would also replace the steel line from the tank to the firewall as they tend to rust internally and the flex line from the steel line to the fuel pump as they deteriorate internally. If the coils have not been rebuilt by Skip Haney in Florida, I would sent them to him to be rebuilt. Then I would test drive the car to make sure it was reliable, so I could enjoy driving it. I would address any problems found. I don't own a trailer and have driven my cars to all of the meets that I have attended and know guys that have driven their Ford products cross country by doing the things that I recommended here. I believe that you can get the correct fuel line from Third Gen Auto https://thirdgenauto.com/ Some radiator repair shops will service the tank for you.
  7. According to Old Cars Price Guide a 3 window 1942 coupe is worth: condition 6 $2360 Parts car or car th6ta needs everything and is missing parts Condition 5 $7080 Restorable car that is complete and needs a complete restoration Condition 4 $11,800 Good condition driver car that runs and looks shabby.
  8. I would also want to know your skills. Can you repair the sheet metal and frame rust? The car does not appear to be complete, so you will need to search for replacement parts.
  9. If you have this condition when the car is on all four wheels, it is most likely weak springs. It could also be frozen shock absorbers. I would not pay much attention to height differences when the car is on jack stands. I also would not worry much about 1" difference.
  10. The easiest way to get the distributor back on is to buy 2 - 5/16-18 x 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 long and cut the heads off of them. I then grind opposing flats on the un-threaded end to give me a gripping surface and cut a slot for a screwdriver also. Then you can use the 2 bolts as guide pins to hold the distributor as you turn the rotor to get the distributor tang aligned with the camshaft slot. I use the 1 1/2" bolts on my Mercury because I have lots of room and the 1 1/4 bolts on the Fords that do not have enough room to get the distributor over the longer bolts. Clean all gasket surfaces and do NOT use a gasket cement or sealer on the gaskets. You can use a light coat of grease on the gasket between the timing cover and the distributor.
  11. The coil is probably stuck in the opening. Use a thin scraper to try freeing it up. Be gentle as it may just pop up when you start to pry.
  12. Try contacting Yesteryear Ford Parts in Mason, MI. He has been in business for many years and may know a local rebuilder that can do a good job for you. My other suggestion would be to look in your roster for other V12 owners near you and ask for their recommendations. Info@yesteryearfordparts..com (517) 676-4416
  13. I would tackle the lack of spark first. If the valves are just stuck on cyl. 11 you may be able to free them up with MMO once you have the engine firing on all 12.
  14. It sounds like you have a problem with the valves or a head gasket leak on cylinder 11 . You can do a cylinder leak down test on Cylinder 11 and listen for bubbles in the radiator or air rushing sounds in the carburetor or exhaust pipe. If the radiator has bubbles, the head gasket is gone or your block is cracked. You should also see water or foam in the oil. If the air rushing sound is coming from the carburetor, the intake valve is stuck or burned, if it is coming from the tail pipe, the exhaust valve is burned or stuck. You can also pull the head and intake to check out the problem. The missing spark on one bank can be incorrect voltage at the input of the coil, bad condenser or bad coil. Check the voltage at the input to the coils. One coil should have battery voltage and the other should have about 3V. If you have this, leave the meter connected to the side with battery voltage and tap the starter or hand crank the engine until the voltage drops. If it drops to the same level that the other coil input did, your resisters or OK. The other side should now be at battery voltage. If it is not, either the coil or the condenser is bad. Try replacing the condenser and see if conditions change. If not, send your coil to Skip Haney in FL.
  15. Speedway sell mirrors that will clamp on the vent window glass, but guys that have tried them, say that they vibrate too much to be of any use. Some guys have mounted a backup camera on the right side A pillar and adjusted it to show what is going on. Most of the cameras will work on 6 volts, but most of the screens take 12 volts.
  16. Everett, I don't remember which cylinders are fed by each side of the carburetor on the V-12, so I cannot give you a definite answer. The coil only feeds one bank and weak spark can cause spark plug fouling. I would pull a plug wire from each bank and check the spark with a worm engine by holding the wire near a head nut. Compare the 2 sides, they should be blue in color and about 1/2" long. Orange color indicates a weak spark. I would also set your mixture screws using this procedure: Lightly seat both screws and then back them off 5/8 of a turn Start the engine, set the idle speed to 350 rpm and observe the vacuum gauge. Turn 1 screw IN 1/8 of a turn If the vacuum increases, turn the other screw IN 1/8 of a turn and repeat previous step until vacuum decreases, then back off the last adjustment. If the vacuum decreases, go to next step. Turn screw OUT 1/8 turn past initial setting. If vacuum increases, turn the other screw OUT 1/8 turn and repeat the above step until vacuum decreases, then back off the last adjustment. If idle speed increases beyond 400 rpm during this operation reset it to 350 rpm. Turning both screws 1/8 turn at a time keeps the idle circuit balanced. Another test that you can do is pull the throttle out until the engine is running about 1,200 rpm. Check you vacuum gauge reading and then turn one of the idle adjustment screws in about 1/4 turn. If the vacuum increases the main jet is running rich, if there is no change, try turning the screw out 1/4 turn past the original setting. If vacuum increases, the main jet is lean.
  17. Is this a new rebuild or an engine with many miles on it? I would not make a decision on an action plan until I could do the compression test on a warm engine with the choke and throttle wide open.
  18. The terminal closest to the resister has the yellow wires with the black tracer and the terminal furthest fro the resister has the black and blue, green and yellow with red tracer. It does make a difference which way you wire the 1936-1939 circuit breaker. It a vibrating magnetic switch. It sounds like yours may be defective as it should have closed the contacts. When you have a short in the light circuit the switch should vibrate and the lights should flicker.
  19. Skip's e-mail: skiphaneyfl@aol.com
  20. Jon, I don't mean any disrespect to you and your knowledge about carburetors is much greater than mine, but here is a diagram that shows the power valve flow being added to the main jet flow. I still believe that the power valve will open and close under load at highway speed. If it did not, you would have unwanted speed changes while cruising. A slight load change due to wind or terrain would lead to starving the engine and a slow down. Matt, Before I put my foot in my mouth again, I would like to know which carburetors you are using. The 94 on the back of the carburetor just give the size of the venturi. The bowl should have an identification number also and that is what is needed to decide on the jet size and power valve rating. The main jets should be sized to give you a fuel mixture that can be properly vaporized and burnt. The power valve should be rated for the model carburetor that you are using. I strongly disagree with using different size jets in the 2 carbs on a 2 carb manifold. Unless one set is oversized for the application, you will not achieve the correct cylinder balance. I don't know how the runners on the Edelbrock manifold are configured, but if they are configured similar to the LZ manifold you would be starving some cylinders or flooding some cylinders. Think of it this way, would you put a 54 jet in one side of the carburetor and a 57 jet in the other. The 6.5 power valves will only enrich the fuel under heavier loads or higher speeds.
  21. If you REALLY want to touch it up in lacquer, contact TCP Global to see if they can help you out. They are very good at color matching. That is a very nice looking car and it is a shame that it was painted in lacquer when a modern paint would look better as well as hold up better. I used lacquer to paint my 40 Mercury black back in 1976 and am still sorry that I did it. It has been repainted with PPG base coat-clear coat and I am much happier with being to maintain the paint to high standards. Lacquer chips easier and fades faster than the base coat-clear coat. There has been NO fading of my paint since it was painted in 2004. I had an accident in 2019 that was repaired in 2020 with paint left over from 2004. The color was spot painted and the clear coat covered the panels damaged. You cannot see where it was repaired. My preference would be to go with a modern single stage paint and paint the complete quarter panel shown. With a good color match and buff out the different paint type would not be noticeable. New lacquer will fail in the same manner with the additives in the new fuel. If you have small chips that need to be repaired, the modern paint will work there also
  22. I don't believe that he is. He has his own shop and rebuilds carburetors to a very high standard. He usually installs new throttle shafts and refaces warped and pitted surfaces so that the carburetor performs like it did when new. He uses the Daytona kits with the addition of parts that he has found work better, like the float needle and seat, and power valve. He does not replace parts that are working properly and he can engine test your carburetor before sending it back.
  23. I would contact Columbia Two Speed Parts and buy their Primer on care and operation of the Columbia. It will save you many headaches and keep your Columbia working properly. http://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/index.cfm
  24. I fall into the Holley power valve trap every time that I suggest changing it. I keep thinking that the power valve rating is where it will open, but it is where it will close. A 5.5 valve will close when vacuum is above 5.5" of vacuum at the valve and a 6.5 valve will close when the vacuum is above 6.5" at the valve. When it is open, it will feed more fuel into the venturi. When you accelerate the throttle plates are wide open and the vacuum is lower, so the power valve will open. At a steady speed above 25 mph, the vacuum will vary with the load and the vacuum at the power valve will remain in a range of about 5" -15.5" depending on engine load. The 1940 Lincoln carburetor had an 8.5" valve from the factory, and that is what I would start with. What I am trying to say is to get a richer mixture, you need a higher number power valve. You need identical carbs in a 2 carb system on most dual carb manifolds. This will balance the air and fuel mixture to the engine. Most dual carb manifolds have the carburetors feed a plenum, where the mixture is shared to same extent between all cylinders. The plan of action should be: Check spark plug color for mixture. If rich, go to lower tension power valve. If all plugs are the same light brown color, you can try a larger size main jets. If that does not fix your problem check your plugs again. The next step would be to make sure that the power valves open at the the same vacuum and that there are no obstructions to the power valve vacuum port in the base of the carburetor. Make sure that the nozzles are clean and mounted with the correct gaskets and the clamps are secure and not over tightened. Make sure that the throttle plates and venturi are cleaned of any debris or carbon build up. Make sure tat the correct gasket was used between the manifold and the carburetor, and between the base of the carburetor and the body of the carburetor.
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