Ray500

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  1. You probably won't find anyone who either knows how to rebuild the coil or is interested in it. Skip uses new Ford coils to rebuild the coils. And remember these coils are made of electromagnet wiring......copper wire that is coated with a varnish for insulation just like in transformers.....and over time that can be compromised. All it takes is a shorted turn of the copper wiring inside the coil to make it malfunction. When the coil is heated the varnish can be compromised and literally you have 'shorted turns' within the coil. You can't fix that, only rebuild the coil with new wiring to restore the original function of the coil. As to getting lost in shipment, send it to Skip via FedEx insured and he'll rebuild it for you. Probably your distributor is working, but getting a correct working coil on it and testing things is the best way. If you still have trouble with the distributor you can then send it to Skip for rebuilding and calibration the same way you did the coil. You will be able to log onto FedEx.com and track your package to give you peace of mind where it is located in the system and it will tell you when it is delivered and who signed for it. This is the only way to get the distributor/coil working and your car running properly!
  2. There's probably a bunch or at least some out there you can buy. Keep watching eBay as people hoard a lot of things that eventually get sold. A good metal worker can also reproduce one as they're a simple 'pliars' sort of tool.
  3. Sending your distributor complete with coil and the side caps to someone who can repair them. I think Skip Haney in Florida does it, and perhaps Jake Fleming in Dallas who has a proper setup to test the distributors and calibrate them for proper operation. I got a coil rebuilt by Skip some time ago, and it works well. He actually guts the old coils inside the housing and replaces them with Ford coils and reseals them to get the hottest spark. Other issues with the distributor need to also be checked off the engine. I'd check the voltage on the coil terminals that comes from the 2 resistors under the dash. You need to connect a couple of clip wires to the distributor for remote testing as it's very close to the fan blade! The resistors are of a low Ohm value, but the voltage under load on each side of the coil where the condensers attach is important. Should be 3-4 volts with the engine running. You have to have the resistors to limit the voltage/current from the battery so you don't damage the coils. Your side plates where the plug wires attach also can be problematic. There was someone who was refurbishing them and making sure there is proper clearance between the rotor posts and the brass pins protruding from the plates for max spark transfer. Chris Harrel, (Boos-Harrel) one of the suppliers of parts might have some or could tell you who does the rebuilding. Also don't overlook putting new plug wires in the system as they also break down, and proper termination of the connectors on each end of the plug wires is very important for connectivity. If you rebuild the electrical system of the ignition you should return to proper working order!
  4. With vehicles in this age group, all components of the driveline need verification as to condition. You never know if any of the parts have ever been changed or gone bad in more recent times. Lots of the cars never really got good service like basic oil and lube maintenance which can contribute to wear. Listening to noises might give an indication as to the area of the problem, but still full inspection of all bearings and parts in the drive line need attention as to their condition. We also in this day and age have few real mechanics that know these cars and can fix them. Most garages won't touch them as they say we can't get the parts which isn't true. Just takes a little innovation and some knowledge of who's got parts as listed on the club's website. One reason Model Ts were so popular they were easy to fix, and with so many millions of them people in today's market actually have reproduced parts or new ones to keep them on the road. Lincoln didn't get so lucky!
  5. A few years ago I purchased all my wiring and looms from Rhode Island Wiring, great stuff and it fit and worked perfectly. I had previously talked to Narragagansett at one point, but I didn't like the attitudes or the service they didn't seem to offer. Also their prices were higher. If the owner died and no one qualified took over you don't know what you'll get. A lot of the suppliers of our parts are individuals dedicated to helping us, but when they're gone it's a much different story. Rhode Island Wiring has all the wiring diagrams to go with each wire loom they construct for each vehicle, making it easy with color codes on the wires to go to the correct places. Good luck with it!
  6. Johnny Bond had a big hit on this song!
  7. You'd need to tear down the tranny, remove and check the flywheel to inspect for wear. Flywheels warp over time and need to be reground so they are flat and the clutch fits tightly. Lots of moving parts in the driveline, no way to really know but to inspect and make sure everything is tight and properly lubed. Not an easy task as the rear end has to be removed to remove the transmission, and the engine pan removed to get the flywheel off. Ole Henry and his engineers didn't make these cars easy to work on! Differential could also have gear issues. I'd replace the engine mounts too and make sure the U joints are good. You're lucky to have a mechanic in your area that knows how to work on these old cars, the young ones at dealers haven't got a clue! They keep looking for the computer on them!
  8. And get a new Optima 6 volt battery for the best results. They won't leak all over the battery shelf either like traditional lead-acid ones do. You can get a Lincoln script cover for the Optima to give it the look of a traditional battery. I also put an alternator which is housed in a traditional generator housing so it's very original looking but the battery will be charged at idle speeds unlike the old generators. Not exactly how it was originally but a lot safer to drive and better reliability of operation.
  9. That appears to be a K.R. Wilson distributor tool for Ford V8s. The V12 units are different. I have a Lincoln one, and I also just got a copy of the 1994 magazine article written by Jake Fleming as to how to setup the distributors for the Lincoln V12s. I never did see the article on line anyplace, might be a copywrite issue. The club offers the old magazines at very reasonable prices to get the information. The instructions I got when I purchased my unit aren't very clear, written by typewriter and faded over the years. Someone actually was selling the tool instructions at one time on eBay.
  10. You can get AW22 hydraulic fluid in 5 gallon barrels from Napa, we do for other hydraulic systems. We used to buy it from Pennzoil but I think it's the same fluid. But still small quantities I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.
  11. Actually Mobil One is a great hydraulic fluid. We use it in hydraulic gate systems and no problems! Probably will work in the old hydraulics of the old window or top cylinders. The biggest problem with any hydraulics is they all leak sooner or later. So good seals are a must to keep it under control!
  12. If you want $50.00 for all of them let me know where to send you a check! Thanks, Ray
  13. It it's rusty and corroded internally loosening it up with penetrating oil like Blast will get it going, but it will continue to give trouble. Better to find a new one. There are suppliers listed on the club website, and they might have a replacement and less of a problem messing with old corrosion and such that is almost impossible to really fix reliably.