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About Ray500

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  1. Could make a monument out of it in tribute to the wasteful destruction practiced so long in the rush to push the 'plastic pigs' as someone recently lamented on all of us as real automobiles!
  2. If you can get a copy of Hemming's News it has listings for parts for your car. Most of us have vehicles prior to 1949.
  3. This car is on eBay now and it's a beauty for those who might be interested in have such all ready to roll down the road. I think it's in Michigan but worth looking at and it's got a video posted with it. FYI!!
  4. If the problem is in the tranny, you have to pull the rear end to get it off the motor. Lots of work, but if you do go through it with all new bearings and gears that aren't perfect. Remember Lincoln uses a main gear with more teeth than it's Ford counterpart. Get the parts per the parts book from one of the suppliers listed in the club website. If you have an overdrive that has to be rebuilt too. U joint is also to be replaced. And while you have it apart, it's best to remove the flywheel from the engine and have it resurfaced and 'trued' with a new clutch plate (Lincoln has a different
  5. You need to get a wiring diagram for the vehicle. In earlier Lincolns the center red lamp on the back of the trunk lock unit worked with the brake lights. The two side tail lights also have dual bulb filaments, one for brake/turn signals, the other for just real tail lights when the main light switch is on. There is a breaker for the light circuits. A wiring diagram really helps to trace it out. Also if the brake light doesn't work when you apply brake pressure on the master cylinder, the brake light switch mounted on the rear of the master cylinder might be defective. You can always put
  6. Where's the radio chassis? You only have the control head and cables. Looks like there is an empty metal housing for the actual radio!
  7. Actually removing the fuel sensor unit on the top of the tank will give about a 2 inch hole to remove the debris. Just make sure they properly clean out the tank which usually requires media blasting (like sand blasting) to get it really clean, then coating the inside with a hard rubber coating for tanks to keep it from rusting again. The outside of the tank you can paint or clear coat to keep the rust from forming. There was some previous discussions on this forum about all of this, not sure how far back you might have to search. Some of the radiator companies acid wash the inside of the
  8. To really repair this tank it will have to be opened up (top & bottom) like a clam shell. Cleaning it out will need to be done, probably blasting it with sand or media and then have it coated to keep the rust away for a while. The amount of water in fuel these days with 10% alcohol is a problem. There is a company that makes replacement gas tanks out of stainless steel, but they aren't original type, and I don't think they have the baffling needed to keep the noise of the gas sloshing around from becoming annoying. A company called Classic Tubing will make the correct tubing replacemen
  9. Someone no doubt was either siphoning gas and lost it into the tank. We used to call those hoses an "Oklahoma Credit Card" back in the day! But seriously the debris had to be induced through the filler tube of the gas tank. They don't belong there! You might fish them out, possibly could interfere with with the fuel getting out of the tank, and the old tube could break apart and jamb the fuel line. You can remove the sending unit with it's cap under the floor of the trunk and get it out that way! But since you took the tank out all seems well. You might want to get your tank lined usu
  10. I don't know how Earle is doing, but he's mostly responsive when I've called him and he's always called me back. Keep trying. Merv Atkins out in Pomona California might also have some parts as he has a fairly large wrecking yard of old Lincolns. You might contact Chris Herrel/Boos Harrel too as he might have the part. Other parts dealers might have it. Seems like it's not on every vehicle, appears to be a modification for oiling of rear main. The V12 had lots of issues back in the day, and seems like different modifications were made in attempts to fix a bad design of many issues. I th
  11. That doesn't look like a Lincoln part! That's a 1/2" galvanized piece of pipe bent to perhaps replace the original. I believe the original was maybe a copper tubing or similar pipe. Earle Brown who's contact information is on the club website might have those, or one of the other suppliers. Good luck! It''s important to get the correct one!
  12. That looks like the temperature sender to the gauge on the dash. Thermostats were the Ford type inserted inside the 2 top radiator hoses with outside clamps to keep them in place. In warm climates most don't need them. Those old engines worked better at operating temperature, and of course in frigid climates people needed heat to keep warm inside the vehicle with the attached heaters either hot water or manifold type! Cleaning out the core is great, but remember those cores are thin brass and it will deteriorate over time and use and will eventually leak in different spots. When I had min
  13. I had my redone some time ago, but yes you have to pull out the rear end in order to remove the transmission & overdrive. You might as well go through both of them since it's such a pain to get it out. There are parts out there from the listed sources on the club website. You have to be careful with the transmission as there are different gears (different number of teeth) in the transmission should you need to replace it due to wear. OD is pretty standard, there are places you can get a rebuilt OD solenoid which is very different than the old Ford units as it has a longer shaft. Also
  14. Check with Merv Atkins out in Pomona, Ca. He's listed in the club's website as a vendor. Other vendors listed might also have what you need.
  15. We have lost some of the pioneers in the restoration process. We have only their thoughts and ideas written in this on line blog to refer to in times of frustration in doing repairs and restoration of these vehicles. Documentation on most of these cars from the mid 30's onward is limited at best. Back in the day a lot of the mechanics were self taught, gaining experiences by working in garages on these cars with limited literature or information. If a person who was interested in working or restoring these cars got lucky, they would have a mentor somewhere that could teach and guide them a
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