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  1. Yes, you have to remove the fan blade to get the clearance you need to get the radiator in or out of the vehicle. There are small bolts that hold the fan to the vibration damper on the front of the engine that have to be removed. You need the radiator back in the vehicle first and then attach the fan unit. And no, it's not that easy, but what on these engines is easy? If you had the hood removed and the engine on a hoist you could just drop it in fan attached if you have such a setup with the radiator already installed. I also like to cover the radiator core with some cardboard panels so I don't damage the core while working on the fan installation. Luckily you don't have to do all of this except every 100 years!
  2. I wouldn't mess with the stabalizer bar, that's attached to the front suspension and you might have problems putting it back together taking that splice joint apart. You simply need to work the new lower radiator hoses onto the pumps. Put a little grease on them to make them slip on easier. Also put the hoses in some boiling water for a short time to limber 'em up so you can get them on the pumps. I remember when I replaced mine and I had hard time to stop the leaking. I used some very hearty hose clamps and then they worked fine. You might as well take the water pumps off if you can and send them to Skip Haney in Florida to rebuild them. You will have to sooner or later if they're old like most of them. And if you don't have the brass diverters that fit behind the water pumps to get better cooling to the rear of the engine, great time to get a set. Skip might have them, I think Chris Harrel has them at Boos Harrel Lincoln. Good luck with it!!!!
  3. Chris Harrel @ Boos Harrel Lincoln Parts lists 36-39 fuel tanks for sale. Check it out!
  4. Pulling out the OD control cable takes it out of Overdrive. There are some written articles about the full operations of the overdrive on this site that will be helpful. And yes if you remove the OD solenoid the seal will probably leak if you try to reinstall it with the old seal. Best to get one or two of them prior to removing it. It's small but necessary so the transmission fluid doesn't leak. Tom sent this link to check it out! https://www.ebay.com/itm/164778447694?fits=Year%3A1948|Submodel%3AContinental&hash=item265d8f934e:g:MWYAAOSwNHFgWse2
  5. If you have a bad OD solenoid, there are places that fix or exchange them. Not cheap but available. Best to remove it from the OD and test it with a battery. (6 volts) Be careful if you're not familiar with it. And there is a small round seal that fits on the shaft of the solenoid before you mount it to keep the oil in the OD from leaking. There are several sources for those like Boos Harrel and other vendors. There are points inside the solenoid that act as hold-in during operations of the OD. Most techs with the diagram can figure it out. Also check the governor unit on the OD as part of the electrical control of the OD. All the wiring including the distributor wiring and the relay under the hood that controls the OD need to be checked and operation verified.
  6. The best way is to have it actually gold plated, but of course that can be expensive. And you also have to be very careful with actual gold as it will rub off with the wrong kind of polishing! Get some estimates from different plate companies as they is the preferred method rather than trying to recreate the macoid paint process.
  7. From 2013.... MarkG Junior Member Members 10 8 posts Posted July 19, 2013 Hello all! I own a '40 Lincoln-Zephyr Continental Cabriolet and we're TRYING to figure out the best way to restore the interior hardware's gold (macoid) trim. I came across this post:http://forums.aaca.org/f128/gold-macoid-substitute-maybe-309784.html ...but was wondering if you all had any "other insights". Thanks!
  8. Try Merv Adkins in Pomona, CA. He has a bunch of old Lincolns, and he might have them. Great guy to do business with also! You can log onto the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club website and his phone number is listed. His email is 'mervadkins@charter.net' to see if he has what you need. Other vendors on the club's listing might have them too!
  9. There's a guy in upper Michigan that has these doors and want to get rid of them. If anyone needs them let me know and I'll send you what I have to contact the guy. Otherwise he's gonna toss 'em out! Be a shame as these kind of parts are every hardly available!
  10. Larry HosalukLincoln Zephyrs & V12 Motors 1936 - 1948 36m · This guy is on Facebook for contact. Hope he doesn't have to toss 'em out! Hopefully someone needs 'em! Last call on these 36/37 4dr doors. Going to scrap next week. Decent doors; bullet holes in e. A case of beer or a bottle of JD and they're yours. Located way the hell up north in Minnesota.
  11. Yeah.....my 41 has a vent tube from the air cleaner that fits into the intake manifold. But the only other manifold connects are for the distributor and wiper motor. I think there were different versions of these setups. Some who have added PCV crankcase venting have drilled and threaded into the intake to accommodate the additional device. I was never tempted to add such to my engine, probably can't hurt as there are a lot of fumes in the oil pan.
  12. No, windshield wiper is connected to the intake manifold. That hole could be for PCV valve for crankcase ventilation some add to their engines even though they didn't do that back in the day. It's below the throttle venturis of the carb, but shouldn't be open to suck air into the fuel delivery!
  13. Your best bet is to call Chris Harrel of Boos Harrel Lincoln listed on the club website or on line as as if they have the components you're looking for. Cable is cable, so if you can carefully measure each section of yours you can find the correct diameter and lengths of each section and simply replace them. Many companies can cut and crimp each section for you. Using either aircraft or stainless steel rope cable you should get what what you need!
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