19tom40

Cylinder 6 is probably the culprit. One or both valves may need an adjustment. If the engine is not broken in, the other low readings are not a disaster, but a concern. You should try adding about a spoon full of oil to each cylinder as you try for a wet compression test. That will tell you if your low readings are from rings not seated or from too tight a valve adjustment.

Most common cause of a draw is a shorted brake light switch or a mis-adjusted master cylinder push rod, causing the brake light to be on all of the time. You might not notice a 12V light being on with a 6V battery. Next would be a shorted diode in the alternator. I use a test light connected between the NEG battery post and the battery cable to trouble shoot drain's on the battery. The light will go off when the short is disconnected. Here is a link to the wiring diagram to help you isolate the short. http://www.boos-herrel.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/download4678.pdf

Check the light bulbs to see if they are 12V. There should be a voltage drop device in the feed to the gauges if it is a 12V car. The ignition resisters would also be bypassed on a 12V conversion. You did not say what year car you are working on, but if it has the overdrive transmission, you must make sure that the relay and solenoid are the correct ones for the battery voltage. If it was my car, I would make sure that I have all of the correct 6V items on the car. The draw that you have could very likely be coming from the alternator.

Did a Google search and came up with: http://www.ctcautoranch.com/Parts Cars/Lincoln/1939 Lincoln 1/1939 Lincoln Parts Car 1.html There may be a speedometer in the car, can't tell from the photos.

I agree with intake valve open, do a compression check to verify and find the cylinder causing it.

The 39 Ford did not have vent windows, there were accessory "wing" windows available. The 1947 Lincoln and Continental both have vent widows, so there was no need for the "wings'. You could probably fit the 39 Ford "wings" on a 1947 Lincoln, by making your own brackets and mounting hardware, but I doubt that they will fit out of the box, the structure and size of the doors is too different.

If I understood your problem, here is what I do. I usually put the wires in the conduit (tubes) before connecting them to the cap. The wires without the ends installed fit through the conduit easier. Start with the longest and then the next longest until all of the wires are in the conduit. Then I cut the ends that are going into the cap to make all of the wire ends going to the spark plugs the same length. Next, I solder the ends that go into the cap to the wires.

John, I will assume that your battery is fully charged and is in good condition and that you have cleaned the battery cables and posts. Connect your volt meter COM lead to the NEG battery post and the + lead to the starter terminal. Crank the engine with the ignition OFF. The meter should read 0.3Volts or less while cranking the engine. If the reading is higher, you have excess resistance in the circuit. If the reading is higher than 0.3V, move the + lead of the meter back to the starter cable side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read 0.2V or less. If it does, replace the cable to the starter. If the reading is higher, move the + lead to the battery side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read 0.1 V or less. If it does, replace the solenoid. If it is higher, replace the cable from the battery. Now that you have the battery side of the circuit in good condition, you need to check the ground circuit. Connect the + lead of the meter to the POS terminal of the battery and the COM lead to a mounting bolt of the starter. Crank the engine and read the meter. It should read 0.1V or less. A higher reading means excess resistance in the grounding circuit. Move the COM lead to the point where the grounding strap is connected to the engine and repeat the test. If the reading is now 0.1V or less the starter is not grounded to the engine correctly. Remove the starter and clean the mounting surface of the starter and the oil pan and repeat the test. If the reading is still high, replace the grounding strap.

The serial number is stamped on the left (driver's side) frame rail near the steering box mount. Most serial numbers are there, but you may have to search the left frame from the body mount to the front cross member. These numbers may not be stamped very deep, so be careful when cleaning. Use Evapo-Rust to help clean the rust. There were wooden boards under the pedals on the driver's side and on the passenger side. Dennis Carpenter may still have some. IMHO it would not be worth the effort to try to restore the car. If the frame is solid, it would make a good Rat Rod with repairs to the floor and safety items. Front fenders and grills show up on E-bay occasionally. The front fenders on a 1940 Mercury are the same as the 1939, the 1939 rear fenders have a smaller wheel opening and different openings for the tail lights from the 1940. Rear fenders rarely show up on E-Bay. Your wheel hubs are not stock 1939 as it would have the wide 5 bolt pattern like the Volkswagen. You will need a special hub puller in order to remove the rear hubs.

I have no idea of where to install a dipstick on the pan of a V-12, but I think that I would start with the boss and tube for a V-8. They are available from most suppliers of Ford parts. The area where the bobber lives, might be a good place to start. I still believe that the bobber is the best solution for the V-12.

That system may work OK for some, but all I can think of is the mess that will occur when you remove the dipstick tube from the drain plug. The fitting that is left on the drain plug will direct the oil to the passenger side of the car instead of letting the oil drain directly below the plug or slightly to the rear of the car. The bobber system should work well if installed correctly and changing the oil regularly will allow you to monitor the condition of the oil.

Some of the parts for that car can be sold if you don't make a rat rod out of it. If the rear fenders are solid, they will sell for $100 or more. The same can be said for the front fenders and hood. 39 Mercury parts are hard to find, but there is not much demand for them, so prices can change quickly when someone needs the part. What is the general location of the car?

Agree and the wheels originally were the Wide 5 used on the 36-39 Ford products. It may have been changed over to the 5lugs on a 5.5 diameter circle. You will have to clear the debris so you can see the drums to determine this. I can't see the rear drum in the photo clear enough to determine the rear wheel size.

You are asking for an opinion, here is mine. I would not use both, I would remove the Columbia as they can be more troublesome than the OD transmission. The sweet spot of the V-12 is between 2000 and 2500 if I remember correctly. So I would drive it t9o keep it it that range on the highway.

I am going to give you my opinion about your questions. The 41 may have a Columbia or an overdrive. I prefer the reliability of the overdrive transmission. Any oil pump provided by Ford as original equipment is adequate ti oil the engine. A clean block and radiator should cool your engine in light traffic or road conditions. The hydraulic power windows are more reliable than the electric motor type. If your pump is rebuilt, the system flushed and refilled with hydraulic fluid and the wiring replaced with a newer harness, you should have no or little problems with the windows.

Call Boose-Herrel before you order the tank. Some questions to ask are: Is it a direct fit? Some repro tanks require some modifications in order to install them. Will my original sending unit work? Most repro tanks will not take the original KS sending unit, you have to use the aftermarket resistive type sending unit that is inaccurate or modify the tank with the sending unit flange from your tank. Does it have baffles to reduce sloshing? Fuel sloshing in the tank can cause driveablity problems What kind of rust protection does it have? You must be satisfied with the corrosion protection as fuel with Ethanol is more corrosive than the fuel that was prevalent when your car was manufactured. On this side of the pond, we have services like Gas Tank Renu that will remove or convert all of the rust in your tank and then coat it with a material that is like a bladder. You might look for a similar service in the UK. IMHO it is a better solution than most repro tanks.

Drive your Lincoln. The more you drive it the more reliable it will be. You cannot find out what is not working correctly unless you use it. There are several members of the LZCO and the LCOC that drive their cars on long tours and there are also the ones that trailer their car so they can enjoy power steering and AC. IMHO drive your Lincoln and enjoy it. Keep it stock and well maintained and it will be fun to drive. It does not drive like a KB or a Pierce-Arrow but is similar in power and handling to other middle to high priced cars that were new at the same time.

Check out the Secretary of State website for historic plates. https://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-96435_1595_52364-205712--,00.html

Are you sure that the noise is coming from inside the transmission and not the universal joint at the rear of the transmission? If it is coming from inside the transmission, I would not drive the car. There may be broken parts inside that could cause the case to break. To pull the transmission through the floor, you must pull the rear end back about 18" - 24". You can do this by removing the shock connections to the axle, disconnecting the emergency brake and rear brake hose, removing the rear transmission mount, removing the bottom plate on the center mount of the spring, removing the rear wheels and jacking the car up high enough to allow the spring to clear the fuel tank. You will also have to jack up the transmission in order to access the lower universal joint bolts. Be sure to support the engine while the transmission is out of the car. You will not be able to replace the clutch without removing the oil pan, that is why I recommended waiting until you could afford to pull the engine. There are regional Groups of the Early Ford V-8 Club in the UK and Denmark. You might want to contact one of them to find more resources in Europe. Before Brexit, the UK would have been the best place to look for resources, but now I don't know if you are better off looking in Denmark. Here is a link to the Regional Groups all over the world. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm

I heard that the South American fix is coffee grounds. That fix is only good for 100 miles or the end of the driveway, whichever comes first. If you are in the UK, I would suggest that you find a good used transmission to replace your noisy one. The shipping charges on parts to repair the one in the car would be more than the cost of a good used one. Once you have found one, you can pull the engine and transmission and have the engine overhauled. That way you will have to pull the engine only once.

You should make sure that the little triangle at the front of the oil pan is clean and that the oil breather cap on the fuel pump stand is also clean. If these are plugged, you will pressurize the oil pan, resulting in leaks.

If you have three screws attaching the boss to the tank, the boss was replaced at some time in the past. In any case you will have to remove the oil pan to service the boss. A new boss and gasket are available from several vendors. https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search+%23&x=x&year_choice=40&searchtextdesc=brake+drum&searchnumber=59a-6751

The dipstick tube just screws into the boss on the oil pan. The boss is riveted to the oil pan and the pan must be removed to replace or repair the boss. The boss should not be leaking where it connects to the pan, there should be no pressure in the sump and splashes should just drain down into the pan. Where is yours leaking?

You may want to consider a set of brake drum retainers to make sure that the drum stays in place. Here is a link to the ones for a Ford, I am not sure if it will work on a Lincoln, but you can call Chris Herrel at Boose-Herrel and he can give you advice on the fitment as well as help you find a new axle. https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search&year_choice=40&searchtextdesc=brake+drum&sd=Search&searchnumber=

You can try the procedure that Abe Lincoln posted, but I would start a search for a new axle. You might have to buy a complete rear end to get one. The threads on the axle are damaged right up to the part where the nut contacts the hub, so even if you get it to work now, you are going to have problems in the future. Unless you can get 150 ft lbs or more on the axle nut, I would not drive the car on the highway. It would be a trailer queen.