19tom40

Mike, the wheel bearings use Sta-Lube SL3131 Heavy Duty Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. It is available from NAPA and Amazon as well as many other suppliers. The differential uses a mild EP SAE 140 gear oil. GL4 or lower would be acceptable.

Here is a link to the Repair Manual for the Lincoln overdrive: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124661939042?hash=item1d066e3b62:g:9fIAAOSwuOFgZMTx The Operators Manual explains operation https://www.ebay.com/itm/164778447694?fits=Year%3A1948|Submodel%3AContinental&hash=item265d8f934e:g:MWYAAOSwNHFgWse2 Boose-Herrel has the wiring schematic on his web site.

Brake fluid is not good for paint, and the system can be changed over to hydraulic fluid after a complete flush with denatured alcohol. I would also go the extra mile and have the seals in all of the hydraulic cylinders replaced. Then you will have a nice reliable system to operate your seat, window and top. You can also just flush the system every year and fill it with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Your paint is safe unless you develop a leak from rusty lines or worn out cylinder seals.

Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir. Test the fluid to see if it is brake fluid. If it is, flush the system and refill it with fresh brake fluid. This should be done every year according to the shop manual.

The large one ( P/N 91A 2151) is .61" id, .81" od, the small one ( P/N 91A2152) is .51" id and .81" od. They are available from most vendors that sell parts for the 32-53 Fords.

I have the 1941 wiring diagram and the 1946 Service manual and both of them show 1-4-9-8-5-2-11-10-3-6-7-12 firing order. I don't have information for the 1942 distributor, but I believe that it is the same.

You did very nice work on that ignition switch. I don't think that you will have a problem with the oversize, the wear track went much further than the oversize.

Here is a link to the serial numbers: http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm

I have never worked on a car with the hydraulic connections reversed. If you think that this is the cause of your problem, trace the lines out by physical inspection. The windows do not use the top control valve. The pump motor should have been converted to 12 volts negative ground when the car was converted. It is unlikely that the pump is running backwards as the windows work. There is a small chance that adusting the control valve operating rod may fix your problem. The control valve may not be moving enough to open the ports to the top of the operating cylinders. If this does not fix your problem, you will have to get a new control valve or have yours rebuilt. Loosen the set screw that secures the control rod in control valve lever and pull the control rod out so the distance between the ferrule on the bracket and the knob is 26 mm. ( this is the length of the exposed rod). Tighten the set screw and try operating the top.

Looks good, should last another 80 years. A little Vaselene every few years will keep it lubed and reduce wear.

Think positive. Standing on your head improves the blood flow to your brain, making you smarter. After looking at the photo, it seems that you could restrict the movement of the brush so that it lands in a different place. Use a drop of epoxy to restrict it. The design cannot be all that bad, it lasted 86 years, I don't think that a relay would last 10 years without causing trouble.

Thanks for posting the photo. The control valve looks different to the 49-51 valve. The Service Manual that I have does not have a drawing of the control valve and how it works. As a guess, I would say that the upper hose provides pressure from the pump and the lower hose is the return line. The upper steel line should go to the tops of the operating cylinders and the lower pipe should go to the bottom of the operating cylinders. When the top switch is moved to lower the top, the pump should operate and the fluid pressure should go to the top of the operating cylinders. There were 2 type of pressure pumps used in the 1946-1948 cars. A low pressure pump identified by a a cadmium plated plug on the pressure relief valve at the back of the pump and high pressure pump identified by a copper plated plug on the pressure relief valve. If the top will not lower (retract): Check the hydraulic pressure at the control valve top cylinder port. It should be 200-210 psi for the low pressure type pump and 250-260 psi for the high pressure type pump. If you do not have the correct pressure, check the pressure at the operating valve. If it is correct, the problem is in the control valve. If the pressure is correct at the control valve, check the pressure at the top of a top cylinder. If it is low, the trouble is either in the tubing or the top cylinders. If the pressure is normal, the problem is in the top linkage binding or the operating cylinders. I hope that this helps you. Let us know how you make out.

I stand corrected. This is the first time that I have seen ported vacuum used for the vacuum brake on the distributor. All of my literature ends in 1947 and shows the vacuum connections from the holes in the intake manifold.

Until you find one, you can add a little pressure on the brush and sand the plate to reduce the depression. Use Vaselene as a lubricant. Dielectric grease is an insulator, so clean all of it off of the switch. If you cannot find one, you can drill out the pitted contact and replace it with a contact screw (brass screw with flat surface for the head). Ford used them on the circuit breaker board and the resister board.

You can just remove the intake manifold. Be careful of the oil level float.

I believe that your carburetor is from a later engine. What are the numbers on the fuel bowl? The wipers should connect to a tube coming from a hole near the back of the intake manifold. The distributor vacuum brake has a tube that connects to the hole near the front of the manifold. The Columbia controls should come from a plate that fits under the carburetor.

They are also available from Dennis Carpenter and many other Ford parts suppliers. The line is not copper, it is copper plated steel. Boose Herrel sells the bent line with the fittings.

Here is a page from the 1949 Shop Manual showing the pump. I believe that the pump plumbing is the same for the 1946. I don't know how you are posting your replies, but they are very difficult to read. Have you tried to type into the reply box directly?

Next time try Mac's https://www.macsautoparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?&q=rear wheel grease seal&filter=model_name_uFilter:"Ford Mercury (32-48)"&rows=30&view=grid&start=0

Here is a discussion on the subject: https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/80-gasoline-20-kerosene-20-more-power.794903/

To remove the rear seals, you need to remove the split ring that is holding them in. I use 2 screwdrivers to work them out of the groove. A small thin one to get it started and then a thicker one to work around the drum. Some people grind one end of the ring on an angle so that it is easier to get a tool behind it and get out of the groove. Once the retaining ring is removed, you can use a seal puller or a long screwdriver like Larry suggested. You should be able to order the National seal, but they are very pricey in the US. I use the ones sold by Yesteryear Ford Parts. His shipping rate to Canada is very high, so try to source them in Canada.

I believe that you have to find a Soft Trim book for 1957 to determine if that is a special code for the convertible top. There is no definition for it in the MPC.

The recommended grease is Sta-Lube SL3131 Heavy Duty Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. This has been proven by many users in the Early Ford V-8 Club to protect the roller bearings in the rear wheels and is also good for the front wheel bearings. It is available on Amazon.

I would NOT use the grease nipple to grease the rear wheel bearings. This will try to force grease past the grease seal and the grease that does not make it past the seal, will end up on the brakes.

I would send the shoes back to the supplier and ask for a set that was put together correctly. There is no excuse for such sloppy workmanship. Brake shops that do drum brakes are long gone form most areas of the country, and the ones that are around want a fortune to reline shoes. I found 2 shops, 1 wanted $80 a wheel to reline the shoes and another $80 to fit the shoes to the drum. The other shop wanted $150 per wheel including fitting the shoes to the drum. I bought new shoes from Kanter for way less money and they fit the drums.