Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

323 profile views

chris_kriner's Achievements

250+ Points

250+ Points (1/7)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. Got it...Ok I will next time I am by car. Its stored 2 hours away from me. And yes that was what I was asking.
  2. I am going to have to make a video. Hahahhah All that is new..I did check and sealed....Yes metal fuel line from tank. Sediment bowl is always full! No issues there! Only "Flex" hose I have is about 3 inches from hard line from firewall to pump. I know you said you dont like it but I have a inline fuel filter. Then from pump to carb is hard lined again. (Video to come i guess)............BUT...... I had a thought (gets me in trouble at times) When I hade looms off and re wired the looms with new spark plug wires I disconnected the coil/over drive and temp gauge that runs through the looms as well. When I reconnected them I accidently rewired the left bank coil wire to the heater temp gauge. Resulting in my temp gauge not working and only 1/2 my engine running. (right side) I soon discovered what I had done and corrected the issue. Temp gauge works again and all cylinders are firing. BUT MY THOUGHT IS..... When I reconnected the left and right bank wires from the coil up into the spark plug loom, out the end and into the correct wire they were connected too, what if I have those backwards? Would that make a difference? On how it fires? Does that make sense what Im saying? Lets say the one wire off the coil/condenser (lets say right side) up through the loom into main wire harness but I accidently hooked it to the "Left side" wire...instead of the right side?????
  3. Tom.... Note** over drive is unhooked...But I dont think that would have anything to do with it. Starting off in 1st gear. all the way through the rev range to bring it to 2nd. it will sputter. In 1st-2nd and 3rd. It cuts out like its starving for gas. (hope this makes sense) RRrrrrrrrrrrrrr..sput..RRrrrrrr sput sput....RRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr in to 2nd....same thing all the way into third till I reach 45 or level out. At that point I have no over drive gear to give me that "next gear" and I have 4:44 rear gears so anything over 45/50 shes screaming. NEW or rebuilt: Gas tank fuel line Fuel Pump (new) Carb (rebuilt) Coil (rebuilt by skip) Distributor rebuilt and Sun tested timed and dwell with new condensers Plugs and plug wires
  4. I would say it got it closer. maybe a better psi. All the things I read even the wafer thin gasket can effect the proper lift/stroke. As you can see my rod was worn down flat as the other has a tapered top. I had to at least check it to see. I still think I have a sneaky suspicion my timing is off. I cant think what else it could be... What bothers me, is that I had it sent out to be all set up after the rebuild (distributor) and new rebuilt coil......
  5. UPDATE........Received fuel pump rod and changed them out. Still Sputters but not as bad.....it was worn down a little as you can see in picks. Worth a shot changing and learned something doing it.
  6. Tom, I will look into that. Talked to Chris at Boo's and got a new rod coming to me. He did mention to me..."Boy I hope your bushing isn't bad".... Looked into that and what it takes to change that. UMmmm no thanks! I hope not to! Does not look fun to do. I will keep you updated on issue! Thank you.
  7. Thanks Tom! I'm getting to the nitty gritty and last resorts of why she spits and sputters. I have rebuilt the tank, new lines, plugs. wires, rebuilt carb. coil and had the distributor timed. I was thinking it may need a helper 6v pump (as u seen in my other threads I posted) Added a new clear in-line fuel filter and even though glass bowl is full...watching the filter it never fills up...and dribbles in while running. Yes a lil faster when revving the engine. But with out putting on a psi gauge, I don't know what I have, BUT Sure doesn't look like 2 or 3 pounds. And NO I did not replace the rod when the new pump was installed. I will call Chris at Boo's.....This is why I was asking because I have seen some chats that they wear down down over time.....hence not getting a full stroke and fully moving that diaphragm in pump up and down like it should. Being a new pump I shouldn't have to mess with the spring? If I do, What would I do? Wish there were videos lol thank you for the info and will look into that! Thank You!
  8. Question: I am starting out with a new mechanical fuel pump. Other than putting on a PSI gauge to see what I am getting. I have a sneaky suspicion that I am not getting the correct PSI... Correct me if im wrong is like 2 or 3 max. Now.....My question is there a adjustment on them? Could the rod that is going down into the block be worn over time and not getting the correct, or was once the full rotation? lift? extension? (Not sure of correct term) to fully work that diaphragm to achieve the right PSI. I hope this makes sense. Thoughts? Thank you every one in advance.....
  9. Thank you Tom! I will check those out.
  10. Tom & Ray I have a trickle charger on her all the time. Just for that reason of something will kill the battery over night because of the draw. Only reason I have the disconnect is also because of that reason. Good idea on looking at bulbs. I am going back up this weekend, so I will check. I have made a deal with someone who has just converted their 46 Lincoln to 12v. So I am buying their 6v generator. Yes I am going to make it all period correct. I need to find someone in Western NY who knows flat heads/6v systems and especially v12 Lincolns. lol My shade tree wisdom only goes so far sometimes Hahhahah ..... Honestly I love working on her and learning. (I should of chose a cheaper hobby tho)
  11. George, I also have a blade type disconnect. I would say no on housing. When I purchased the car it had been sitting for 20 years. Previous owner had passed and going through his folder dated in late 1990's... he had a list of things to find at swap meets for the car. Keep in mind there was no internet at the time. Its alot easier to find parts you need now, then it was back pre-internet. So I'm guessing they just put it on there bcz they couldn't find a original? Again I'm guessing. 80% is all original cloth wrapped wires...but there is new here and there... I have not tested it to see how much its putting out. Car is stored 2 hrs from me because of storage. (I have no storage here) Next time I go up I will be doing that. Just one more mystery this car throws at me.
  12. But if they (previous owner) Did try to convert it to 12v......This is how I bought it and received it......Why is my battery 6v and still positive grounded to the heads? Also I had the coil rebuilt by skip ....shouldn't that have been changed too handle 12v? Skip never said it was.... Everything looks Original to being a 6v System, except for the 12v Alternator and "It had" a 12v fuel pump hooked up. I took that off when I was restoring the fuel system front to back.
  13. Ray500, I was making sure is it ok to use a 12V ( I mean its been running) And the old external fuel pump was 12V? but everything else is 6v....just don't know enough of "what is ok and what is not". Yes my manual fuel pump is new and is working good. Just cant figure out why she's still Spiting and sputtering when climbing through the gears. That's besides the unwanted draw im getting. It is on a battery tender. Have the diagram. Making sure last owner just didn't make a mistake and threw on a 12v Alt and said screw it, it works! The 12V Alt as i punched in #'s on it is from the 70's and was hooked up to the fire wall regulator.....I'm learning Ray I'm learning! lol I do have my hands (almost) on a Original 6V generator from another enthusiast. Everything is new or rebuilt at this point....So im at a loss. With the draining battery i just have to hunt and peck like you say....I'll find it! (One day)
  14. In my attempt to find a "Parasitic draw" in my electric system. I am discovering things that are confusing me and questioning if they are right, that the last owner (Or someone did) 1st I have a Brad new Optima 6v battery....But checking if "Replacement" Generator/Alternator is charging I looked more closely......Is this a 12v !?!??!?...Then I went to check old wires that were used to hook up "Helper" fuel pump that was taken out and not currently in car. See if they were the reason for the draw. Everything I can find says this is a 12v pump too...... This isn't right is it? Could this make the engine fire differently and make it Skip and sputter? See Pics.... 2 pics are Alt and 3 are the carter pump?
  15. I made this video because I saw nothing that helped me at the time. I didn't mention it alot in the video, but keep the wires bare and not in cloth binding. This is for your Over drive-coil and temperature gauge wires. This is a shade tree attempt and in no way am I professtional....Again this is the way I did it, but many will tell you there's more than one way to skin a cat.... Good luck!
  • Create New...