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  1. Cokekid....Do you want to sell any of them? (4 hole) :)
  2. Go to this site on face book and become a member. "Lincoln Zephyrs & V12 Motors" https://www.facebook.com/groups/393195544566213 Post question there and or seek out a Ken Harris! Great guy might be able to help and time it for you. (he did mine, but I have a 46) Still a good group of ppl. Might have to cut and paste the link.
  3. I had a guy redo my body tag for my 46 Lincoln. Very nice and full of info as well! You cant even tell and is spot on! His name and info is: Richard Hommel 2473 Giant Oaks Drive Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 15241 Phone: 412-831-0411 If he doesn't answer leave a message and he is sure to call back.
  4. 19tom40 I am not getting a shock all the time. Only when I go to press the horn... Here Is a Pic of it. I dont think its suppose to look like this! Already in talks with Chris at Boo's for new screw insulators and formed "Sponge" seal....
  5. Update.....I found out how to do what I was trying to do. All I needed to do was grab the Horn mechanism part (Chrome circle with center cap that reads "Lincoln Twelve") at the 1 O'clock position and the 7 o'clock position and twist. It will pop off and expose the Spring and what nots....
  6. Thanks Ray500! The wheel is in great shape. I figured something is touching that shouldn't be touching.
  7. OK...Checking off the "To-Do" list, and it is getting shorter! Next Project...How in the world do I go about removing the steering wheel? Or better yet, the horn mechanism? Trying to figure out why I would be getting a slight shock from the horn! Every time I press it, I get a slight ...ok ....a good shock! Very unpleasant surprise let me tell you! Hahahhaha...Ideas? My thoughts are bare or crossed wires in there. Last thing I want to do is damage the wheel in any way. Thanks everyone for your input! Chris
  8. Classic tube is the company I used to redo my lines. Very good company and they fit perfect. I do recommend calling up Boos for other parts that the kit does not come with. Example: The Junction boxes. Clips and I ended up getting everything new past the Master (Copper washers/bolt and pressure switch) this was my mistake and couldn't figure out why I was getting no fluid in the back. Tried to reuse older parts that (you couldn't tell) were clogged. So whats a extra $50/60 from Boos....Make it all new, save the headaches and time
  9. Hahhaha Oh my goodness.....I dont know if I am more scared now or not. How about plugs? Anyone find one set/maker works better then the next in these V12's? Can I just walk in and buy or is gaping still a thing with these ol girls like they did back in the day? ....Ray500...YES! On sprucing up and painting the housing. planned on it. I have done this with my oil bath cleaner already
  10. Hello everyone...Shes coming along nicely! Cleaned her up the other day for the first time in MANY years. (See new icon pic) lol OK My questions. She runs great, no issues....YET.....While detailing the engine bay. I noticed on closer inspection how old and cracked my wires are. Its just a matter of time before something goes wrong. The spark plugs I couldn't even guess and tell you how old they are. Question #1: How hard is it to change the wires on this V12 and run them up into the tubes to the right place. I consider myself a good shade tree mechanic and have done many plug
  11. OK.... update....It came down to two issues. Bad Master and rear junction (T block) box in the rear. In the processes of fixing the master, the pressure switch and bolt were damaged. Have new ones coming with new copper rings/seals. That should be the end of that issue hopefully. Thank you everyone for your thoughts and suggestions. Now to start a new thread about wires and plugs! lol
  12. I was thinking about the Junction, Ill check that out...thanks!
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