Colin Spong

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About Colin Spong

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  1. Chuck The trunk lid support that you have is non-original. The trunk lid hinge on one side had a spring loaded mechanism that held the trunk in the open position To close it the trunk lid would be raised slightly that would turn the mechanism to release the lid. Most were broken as owners tried to close the lid by simply pushing down. There was even a warning tag in the spare wheel bracket to remind owners. Most likely you hinge was broken many years ago and a repair was made....Regards Colin.
  2. As you have discovered these are not easy to fit. With my 1937's I found that they simply pushed into place but it needed a great deal of care. At the top they fit under the "V" shaped top mounding and at the bottom mine were secured with a small machine screw but this may not have been original. Hope this helps.
  3. The wide flat seal with the circular part is the lower door seal This fits on to the wire clips that hold the upholstery panel to the door You will need to mark the positions on the rubber (flat part) and then use a small hollow puch to make the holes. Make sure that the circular part of the rubber is in alignment with the lower edge of the upholstery panel. Trim the ends to match the door contours. There was a cup and machine screw in each end of the upholstery panel that also goes through the rubber section to hold it firm. Hope this helps.
  4. There are two references to vibration dampers in Bob Barr's Technical Article Compilation as follows :- Volume 17, Issue 2, Page 10 written by Paul Clancy which deals with removal of the damper. Volume 7, Issue 3. page 19 written by Roy Tucker which deals with service of the damper. Hope this helps.
  5. Hello Larry, Thanks for your message, you are always so very helpful. The measurments that you have supplied give a very good indication of the original length of the spring. As a starting point I will set it to 40 inches and also get the opinion of the spring overhaul company. Incidentally, the 14 leaf spring was standard on convertible sedans and special equipment on all others. Thank You, Colin.
  6. We are doing a refresh on a 1938 LZ that we restored some 8 years ago. In common with many others the front spring has dropped to the extent that the outer ends now point upwards. I have the spring off the car and when unladed the spring measures 41 inches from the centres of the shackle studs. The spring is part number 86H-5310A (13 leaves).The 1948 parts book tells us that this is replaced by 06H-5310C "spring front 13 leaves 2250lbs load 40 3/4inches free length measure from centreline of shackle stud" . As this is only 1/4 inch shorter that my problem spring I can't see that this will fix the problem. Does anybody have any mesurements for the sizes of the spring when off the car and its free lenght? I can have the spring re-tempered and raised but it will be all guesswork . Thank for any advice. Colin
  7. John... The sender unit for a 1936-38 LZ is mounted in the top tank of the radiator and looks like a small cigar. As a point of interest it is the same as the one used on the 1937/38 Willys. The temperature gauges used on 1936/38 LZ's "rest" on COLD but the 1939 and possibly later "rest" on HOT. Therefore I seem to remember that the cylinder head sender was incompatible with the 1937 dash unit. Of course you may well have a defective dash unit but this could be part of your problem. Colin
  8. John, The bolt that you show on your first post is the correct item for a 1937 LZ and as far as I known for all LZ's 1936-39 and maybe later. I have restored two of these cars and a 1938 here in the UK and all had those bolts. The front section of the LZ frame is a "box section" with the steering box bolted to the in-board side of the box. These special bolts go throught the outer section of the box and the shoulder on the bolts clamps against the inner part of the box section as the threaded part is taken up by the screw threads in the steering box itself. The bolt head simply sticks out of the outer part of the box section and allows a wrench to turn it. Orignally there would have been spring washers under the shoulder on the bolt. Hope this helps but if it's unclear give me your phone number and a good time (USA time) and I will call you. The correct fitting of the steering box is a critical thing. Good luck.
  9. The seat for a Coupe-Sedan is the same as the Coupe which might help find one. Regards, Colin (in England)
  10. John, They were normal Ford parts and not identified and LZ. They have been on the car since 1993 without any issues
  11. I used Bob Drake reproduction Ford motor mounts on my 1937 LZ back in 1993. They have never given any problems and are still perfect.
  12. There are two types of bearing retainer, the first type used on early LZ's and Ford's had no provision for the seal. The later type has a recessed area for the seal to fit into. I think this type was used from about 1939/40 onwards and is the same part as used on Ford's. Both parts are interchangable.
  13. I had exactly the same problem when re-assembling my 1938 LZ. I put the car on a vehicle lift and secured the front crossmember to the front of the lift with ratchet straps. Don't put the straps onto the front axle. I then placed a ratchet strap on each side of the rear axle and secured them to the vehicle lift. By pulling up each strap a few clicks at a time the axle will slowly move backwards until the holes align. You probably don't have a vehicle lift handy but any rigid fixture will work. Hope this helps, good luck.
  14. You may have already done this but try loosening the nuts that hold the spring to the front cross member.This should take the tension off the spring and allow the wishbone to drop far enough to get the oil pan out. It's not easy but I have done this several times over the years on our 1937.