61polara

Post a photo of the data plate on the firewall and we can tell you a lot more. Why do you think it is one of 6? If it was a special order placed through Cadillac I would expect the body number to be between 1 and 6 not 16202. You can order the build card on this car from GM Heritage.

I believe the first car on the street is a 1942 Dodge followed by a 1938 Chevrolet and 1941 Chevrolet. I think this photo is from 1942-1946.

Brian, Contact Hennie Jacobs at Greenville (SC) Transmission Clinic 800-639-5704 0r 864-246-6870. Family owned business and he is a long time AACA member in the Greenville Chapter. Glad to see you working on the Charger.

I suspect the locksmiths you have talked to don't have the blanks that GM used in those years. I think there were only four, alternated between years. Your best bet is an old time independent locksmith. If there is a chance you locked the keys in the trunk, any locksmith should be able to pick it and open the trunk. Making keys without a key to copy or the code number of the key is a long process unless the lock cylinder is out of the car. I would pull the door panel and remove a door lock. I think that is the same key as your ignition. When you find a locksmith with blanks, he should be more willing to make a key with a lock in hand. Good luck

The items you mentioned are all considered maintenance items and can be replace without deduction as long as they are replaced with original style components. For example, the tires should be correct size bias ply tires. The master cylinder and fuel pump should be the same as the original, not an after market part that fits, but does not appear the same. The same for hoses and clamps, they can be of modern manufacture, but must be the same style as original. Hope this helps.

The Custom S was the model between the base Tempest and the top of the line LeMans. There was not a LeMans Custom S.

Make sure you heater valve is shut off and it is not heating the interior air.

"Funny that those kids are looking at the T and not the Buick....yes, I know the T is likely idling....but still.. " F&J, When I'm around a group like that I ask them if they can start my '60 Buick........Fun to tell them just to press the gas pedal. The go underhood with the ignition on and just pull on the carb linkage and start the car. It's just as big of a show. It's all the same, if the young guy is looking at your car, show him what is unique about it and they will be with you. Our owners need to be more involved with their cars at the shows.

Jack M is correct. In 1946 Chrysler used an indicator light above the speedometer housing on the dash and left and right turn signal indicators. For 1947, Chrysler eliminated the high beam indicator on the dash and moved it to what was the left turn signal indicator. The right indicator flashes for either direction. Chrysler products used a single turn signal indicator for many years. My 1961 Dodge uses just one indicator for both right and left turn signals.

I would recommend keeping the 16" wheels you are taking off. It may make the car easier to sell in the future.

It would be a 3 point deduction for an incorrect master cylinder and an additional 5 points if an incorrect power booster is also installed. AACA does not consider this a safety item. The best safety item for a brake system is to check the fluid level from time to time. In the past when I've had a dual master cylinder fail, it has always failed for both the front and rear brakes. A dual master cylinder will only prevent a total failure if you have a leak in either the front or rear system, past the master cylinder. Checking the fluid level and condition of lines and wheel cylinders will give you advance notice of a failure.

The Member's Roundtable is at 1:00 today in the Media Center.

You should bring the boot and have it with the car should the judges ask to see it. You're going for your Senior Award. I would not risk any points you can avoid.

In the 50's, brake fluid was used in top systems, but by the 60's, I think all were using ATF. Try bleeding the top cylinders by disconnecting them from the top and use the pump to run them in and out several times. Don't run them to their stroke limits though or you may damage the seals. Reconnect them to the top and see what it does.

I would not use CLR. It is a much stronger acid than vinegar!

It looks like someone has replaced the condenser with one that is about 2 inches or one coil loop short. I think it should rest in a u-shaped rubber support and sit on the radiator support, just like the radiator does. You could try to fabricate a rubber support and attach it to the bottom side brackets to stabilize it.

I hope to meet you in Charlotte and announce your Senior Award to you there! Dave Bowman Chief Judge AACA Southeastern National Meet Charlotte, NC

I think you have the answer........start with a cup of vinegar in a gallon of water and see what it does. It won't hurt anything.

You are reading correct. Since you have won your Senior Award, as you continue to show in AACA Meets, you are eligible to win a Preservation Award. You must only score a minimum of 350 points to receive the award. This permits you to start touring and enjoying the car if you choose. You can also strive for a higher level award, by maintaining/improving your car to receive a Grand National Award. The Grand National is the only show with the requirement that you cannot enter a Grand National in the same year you win a Senior Award. So, you can go for a Grand National award for next year (assuming you won you Senior this year), but continue to show in regular AACA National Meets and receive a Preservation Award. Bring it to Charlotte in April for your Preservation. Registration closes on Tuesday.

Philip, Look forward to seeing you. I just found out late today that we have extended the deadline until March 21. Dave Bowman Chief Judge AACA Southeastern National Meet

Blade3562 Go back and read all the posts to you carefully. They are all very good advise. I'll say again, you have a choice to make....HPOF or modified. You're having real fun with this car now, but want it to be HPOF. You can't have both. Make your decision. Value what the HPOF system is trying to accomplish and honor it not try to game it. That is an insult to all of us, including yourself. You have a great car that can be reverted back to a great HPOF vehicle and most likely receive the highest level of HPOF Original if you choose. . If you want HPOF, go after it. If you want modified, go for it. You can't be both. I you want a fun, modified car look for another one and save this one for HPOF. Your Dad's friend has offered to talk to you about this and I will too. I will PM you my phone number.

Blade3562, You have a great looking car and are having a lot of fun with it, but sometimes we have to make choices in life. Right now you have a fun, modified car that you are having a great time with. You want a HPOF certification. You have to choose which road you want to follow. Your car can continue to be a great modified car or it can be a great HPOF car, but not both. You've found the judges manual, so look a little farther into it and you will find a sample HPOF judging sheet. Judge the car yourself and see where you wind up. Read the entire manual, because areas of point deductions that apply to point judged cars also apply for deductions in HPOF. HPOF was created because a lot of nice cars were being restored to original just to win an award and AACA wanted to find a way to preserve these cars as examples of how the car should be restored. Your car does not represent that now, but it can be converted back to that. If I were judging you car from the pictures and your description of it, I would first look at fact that it appears to be lowered, so I'm looking into that. Also, the wheels and tires don't appear correct. The original 155SR13 may not be available but a 155/80R-13 is and would be no deduction as it is the same size tire. The current wheels are aftermarket. It doesn't matter if an aftermarket supplier made them to look similar to what the factory made, they are aftermarket. I would want to see factory documentation on the roof rack. The steering wheel will cost you a deduction, so you would need to go back to the original. LED light bulbs will be a deduction as well. When we look under the car to determine why it looks lowered, we will see your aftermarket exhaust. Your grill is another issue. The replacement grill with a bad badge most likely would not be a deduction only for a rough looking badge. You have to make the choice. Do you want to have an HPOF car or a modified car. You can go either way at this point. It's you decision to make, but it can't be both. I hope this helps.

Registration for Charlotte closes Tuesday, March 14. There's room for your car! Dave Bowman Chief Judge Southeastern Spring Meet

From the modifications you have listed, it is unlikely your car would receive an HPOF award without changing the modifications back to original parts. A car of its age can receive only up to 6 deductions for areas of non-compliance to receive an HPOF award. Another mostly overlooked area of compliance is non-original hose clamps. You may qualify for DPC since the modifications are period.

As in the case of many things the value is knowing what it fits. Yours are boxed by an aftermarket supplier and the best bet is to locate one of their listings. If the Ranco number is on the valve, you would need to locate a Ranco list. There don't seem to be any internet sites to help you. If you are interested in investing a lot of time researching, you can make some money. If not, it would be best to sell the lot.