f147pu

That amount of sag is pretty standard and will increase little if any. I had a Series 11B for 40 years with that amount it never increased noticeably, so I would not be concerned unless you are going for a 100 point resto. You might want to inquire if the stuff under the car is supporting it. This being a S 12 I won't comment on the other matter. Gordon Howard

This mess is in Missouri and needs to be saved. The body is hopeless and frame is broken but everything, bumper to bumper, is there. Complete drive train with free motor, all the dash, excellent tail light, Vacuum tank, gas gauge , etc. eBay auction #303112228660. It is listed in eBay motors vintage car &truck parts other parts Gordon Howard

The working surface of the drum is rusty. Very little can be removed on these stamped steel drums before they are too thin to use. The value depends on cleaning the drum and seeing what is left. Gordon H.

Is that left front wheel a wire, no brake drum.

The rusty items are cylinders, the others are cylinder heads and piston/connecting rods for 1930 and later Franklins Gordon Howard

Har-de-har har. When the cow does jump over the moon.

It has an 18B serial # plate and 18A front fenders. As of 7 pm on Thursday the high bid is $54,100, two fools that won't quit. Wish I was the seller. Gordon

Owners of the above should check out listing 163482104812 . Notice anything unusual about this car? Gordon Howard

I'd go with that. Did it on my 147 using stainless flex for the tail pipe. I think it will be louder than a1.5" though, so you could use a 2 to 1.5" reducer and 1.5" pipe.

What Olympic had a swing out windshield?

And even better with the wood frame rails. In the '60s I took Bertha (11-B) to a local meet in some rural location. It was decided to go somewhere else so off we went over rural town roads, I with four women in the car. One of them in the backseat said "this is just like riding in a modern car!". I believe her regular ride was a mid-twenties large touring, probably the worst riding thing of those days.Those Franklins hold the road incredibly well.

There is one listed in "other American automobile ads"section, sedan, $10K, in Henderson NV. Gordon

I went to print a legible copy of these instructions and for some reason got 7 extra copies. Contact me if you would like one mailed to you. Gordon Howard

Atlas Rim Tool Instructions according to Atlas: Google Atlas rim tool, click IMAGES, on the second row of images is an image of the factory instructions. The tool needs a couple of different placements for all the operations. Gordon Howard

I believe the results will be announced at the TREK.

I put Custom Classics on the rear of my truck back in the sixties when Bob Green was selling them. They were worn out in7500 miles. Bob said that the rubber was compounded for long term appearance properties rather than tread life. There is nothing special about that tire, the Lee mold was the only 6.50x19 in existence back then and there are photos from the thirties with them on cars (as well as other brands) so bingo, Lees are the only correct tire. Baloney.

I totally agree on the Custom Classic tires. Best thing I did on the truck was to get away from them. Now have 6.50x19 Lesters on the front with much less front wheel hunting by steering that has a mind of its' own.

Henry (Hank) Manwell is in Liverpool

Do not worry about the vaporizer. If you ever have one do NOT use it. They have been responsible for many fires in Franklins. The choke is all you need.

Yes.

You really should have this done professionally. They do excellent work, quickly and very reasonable price. I can't remember the name but it has been in other posts.

Email me @ cchoward@snet.net

I think you mean what is different in the Oxford. They have leather upholstery.

It is a memento of the 25th Trek, 5.5" high. The same thing was done in copper for the 10th Trek. Gordon Howard

The O. H. most likely means Oval Head. The screws that I supplied to the Club are 5/16 x 24 X1.5" and fit later cars.