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A source has been found for the 20x233 5/16 x 24 flat head screw for these cars. They are 1-1/2" long and can be cut to the factory 1-1/4" length. As in many cases the bar they screw into also has worn threads, nuts are on hand which can be epoxied to the underside of the bar. Both screws and nuts are zinc plated. The print does not mention '33 Series 16 or Series 19, so info on these will be appreciated. Price is $1.00/ screw and nut plus postage. I will have these thru the Trek after which they will be an HHFC club project. Contact me off list. Gordon Howard

An oxford sedan suffix number was listed for Series 11 thru 1932 16, and 19, so it is legitimate and there is one '32 listed in the Register.

Wow! There are no Series 1 thru 8 sedans in the Register and just one coupe.

Don KItchin did this on his 135, which Mark Sullivan now owns. I don't remember what he did, but he reported very high readings when the oil was cold. If the lines run outside like a S-11 you could tap into one of them. Gordon Howard

compressibility.

Have you tried Jeff Hasslen?

I now have a Stabilator wrench which I will loan out, you pay postage both ways. Contact me for details. Gordon Howard

"Snubber" is the trade name used by Gabriel for their product and "Stabilator" was the trade name for the product made by Watson. They and their straps are not interchangeable. Stabilators are designed to fit a specific location on the car, left front, right rear, etc., and thus not interchangeable.

The Chev part #s fiit many years of 6 cyl cars. I wonder if the only difference in the 840 is the advance springs/curve. Is the shaft in the 840 wobbly?

Ron, Have you come up with anything on this project? GH

Why not replace it with the original? A #642-B is the original for 1930 and I believe would be right for 29.

Any single flaring tool should work fine but as Jim said flaring is an acquired talent. We redid some lines on my truck, the crossover and for one wheel and the supply tank and I let the tool owner do the job rather than me with no experience cobble it up. We found one poor flare on the crossover line. When they talk about low and high pressure systems I believe the "high" refers to power brakes which we certainly do not have to worry about and single flares have been fine when properly done since 1928. Gordon

It is a hydrostatic gauge, air pressure in the line created by the level of the fuel in the tank causes the level of the red liquid in the gauge to rise and fall. Go to the Club website Tech page for 7/1/98 for basic information, also ACNs 19,136 and 138 for more detailed stuff.

Who had the box of wipers at the Trek? I need an 8" blade which will fit what I think is called a "wrist type" arm, possibly ANCO brand. Gordon

It is on the plate on the passenger side of the firewall under the hood

This is a 1928 Series 12 Sport Runabout

Sure. Bob Green did it years ago on an Olympic and there was a 1930 speedster at the Trek this year with 3 side draft Webers. It can be done on any engine with the Swan type manifold but you probably will have to somehow add exhaust heat to the intake manifold.

Ed, Check with Jeff Hasslen, I think he has them. GH

Ed, I have one rim which I will bring with me. G

Is there a serial number plate on the firewall? List the number. Where are you located, I'm in Vernon. BTW, it is a 6 cylinder. Gordon Howard

What is the serial number on the plate below the fuses on the firewall?

This is probably the sign that John Hasslen produced. Gordon Howard

Did you have the timing chain off, or even the camshaft gear? If NOT, you don't have to set the valve timing. If you did, you need to have the owners manual and follow the instructions in section 7 "to set camshaft".

are you trying to set the valve timing or the ignition?