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According to my Series 14 Instruction Book, "The valve clearance is best adjusted while the engine is cold." "Loosen the adjusting nuts and adjust the screws.....until a .007" feeler gauge is just free between the valve stem and walking beam." Do you not have the book? Gordon Howard

K. Carson, (LKO), for "last known owner", should have been added after your name to indicate that the car had been reported as sold. It would stay that way until a new owner reports ownership to the Registrar. The Club can't do any-thing else until new ownership information is sent TO the club. Keeping ownership up to date is an ongoing problem. It always helps if a seller reports the new owner. Not only does this keep the records current, it enables the club to encourage that person to become a member. Gordon Howard

Bill: Are you a HHFC member? Don't see your name in the Roster. If not join right away. groinky mentions the Roster, but that has only names and addresses. You need both the Roster and Register as the Register has the serial and engine numbers and just the owner name and state. If you post your car numbers someone can look up the car IF it has been registered with the Club. I kept the Register (only) for many years when records were kept on index cards which I just added to as ownership changed. I can't imagine these records no longer exist. Usefullness of course depends on the previous owners still being alive and with a current address. For example: of the 2010 membership only 76 were members in 1970. Another approach is to find out if California has kept all the old registrations and, if so, to see if your ar is listed. Don't know if they would be by serial # or license # but Know this can be done in some states. Gordon Howard

Actually they are 19/32" nuts, which is 15.09 mm. You must have a recent SAE wrench set.

"you look at an alleged 1928 Series 12 car, what would you look to confirm that it is in fact a 1928 Series 12?" Look at the builder's plate ont he engine side of the firewall, read the Serial Number, go to www.Franklin car.org, click on TECH, click on "Franklin Serial and motor numbers" and scroll down to 1928. Does your number fall within one of the number blocks? now you know. Gordon Howard

I would add to be sure to use copper wire, not the stuff for modern cars.

I can't weld or machine metal, you guys are overthinking this. Lay the cylinder/head assembly on its side on and at the edge of a work bench. Get a length of tree limb about 7 inches long. Stick it in your cylinder. ( fooled ya!) Fasten two lengths of wood on the bottom of the cylinder extending down the front of the workbench using fender washers to spread the load. Whack the stick. Works for me.

Richard, What electric pump did you use? Gordon Howard

In 2002 when I bought the last stock the mfgr had it was very near $1.50 a foot. No telling what inflation has done to that figure. Gordon

Tom, As you probably remember I have been involved with Stabilator webbing for a long time. I checked the M.C. material, it has anylon core and a breaking strength of 2200 lbs/inch. 1-1/2 inch weould be 3300 lbs. The original webbing was very similar to 4 ply Solid Woven Cotton Belting in the yarns used and the construction of the product. I dug out Recommended Standards sheets put out many years ago when SWCB was an industry standard product. 4 ply belting has a thickness of 3/16' and a breaking strength of 1000 lbs/inch. The m.c. product at 1.5" width and doubled would be 6600 lbs. I don't know how they can make this strength in this width without having a solid, not yarn, core anddon't know how they can do that. Love to see a bit of it. Stabilator straps came in a range of widths. Obviously it would have been more cost efficient to produce all Stabilators the same width. I think the width range was related to the weight of the car used on and the strap was designed as the weak link in the system so that it would break before damage was done to the Stabilator body or maybe a car spring. I would be very leery of using anything stronger including seatbelt webbing as suggested by David. The last time I supplied straps, about 10 years ago, I obtained the last stock of 1.5' 4 ply SWCB that the only remaining manufacturer had. The word was no more would be made unless they received a "large" order. I take that to mean 1000s of feet. I don't know what is the answer to the supply problem. I believe the critical factors are strength, width and non-ravelling edges. Thickness is not. Thhere may be some construction out there in webbing land that meets those requirements that we just haven't found. Another possiblity is slit to width rubberized belting of the proper strength where the rubber would bond the textile reinforcement in place. A lot of searching needs to be done. Gordon

I need a drive or contact info for anyone who rebuilds them. Mine died. All six cylinder models from 135 to 194 are the same. Any info appreciated.

There are two lions with reasonable starting bids on ebay under "automobilia"

The price must have come down, it now says $47.99. In any event it says right in the auction it is a Gem product, whoever they are. Also says 2 stud installation, the factory ones have one center stud and most are nickel plated, not sure about '28s. If you go to the Trek be sure to check the parts dept.

Go to the Club website, click on TECH<TECH><TECH>, click on 2006, scroll down to Sept. 26 and poke around, there is a copy of "Directions for Operating ATLAS RIM TOOL". They are very specific and if not followed you stand a good chance of distorting the rim. Gordon Howard

In the 1980 Register he is listed as Keith A. Carson and in the 1973 Roster his addresss is 36 Linden Street, Garden City NY11530. In '80 he was no longer a member. The Club, for body suffix 21, considers Victoria Brougham to be the correct name for the body style. Gordon H.

Great, thanks for the info.

What is the compression height for Series 11, 12 ,130? Gordon Howard

An owner mod of some sort.

Royalty to the sculptor who designed it.

The first style was used on the Series 10, '22-25, it has a curved base to match the hood shape. The second, which is the one most commonly found on ebay, has a round base with a flat bottom and was used on Series 11 and 12, '25 to 28. Look at the pictures of the various years on the HHFC website.

From the other post, it is a Frankllin 1930 145 or 1931 151 coupe.

It must be a 1930 Model 145 or a 1931 Model 151 as those were the coupe models those years, and Scotty was big on Franklins. More searching indicates this is the 145 coupe Scotty used for the 104 mile low gear run in 1931. See the book "Franklin" by Powell & Chaplin, pages 361 to 364. On page 381 there is an excellent photo of a 145 coupe. Apparently the coupe visor had bracket supports while on all the other bodies the ends of the visor curved downward to the doorpost.

I sold Bertha at the Trek, I think it has been done many times over the years. There is a bulletin board which each year has numerous ads for cars and parts for sale and wanted. The site for the Trek has been talked about forever andI go back to '55. Where ever it is held it will be close-by for some and not others so it has always been the policy to hold it in/near the city where the cars were built. Also, the largest concentration of members is in the northeast quarter of the country.

I am looking for the tool to remove the throwout bearing retaining nut on my 1930. Would like to borrow one if possible, will pay shipping costs. Gordon Howard

The s/n falls in Series 11 and 17 is the body type number for tandem sport. Interior hardware is S/11. Dash is not Franklin. Note the seam across the rear body panel. What shape was a T. S. below that seam? Windshield looks tall for a T.S., at first I thought it might be a Sport Sedan without the landau bars or the rear vertical bars and a modified rear panel. Gordon Howard